Musings on Malt

Beer at the Grocery Store - Its About Time

2009-02-05T08:58:00.007-05:00

I have lived in New York, New Jersey, Kansas, Illinois, Kentucky, South Carolina, Florida and the United Kingdom. I have shopped on numerous occasions in many other states. With the possible exception of Pennsylvania there are few states with alcohol control laws as incomprehensible as those in the Garden State. One example is the manner in which New Jersey regulates microbreweries and brew pubs. The present laws prohibit having more than one brewery under common ownership. Consequently, the successful Triumph Brewery of Princeton had to locate its second brew-pub across the river in New Hope, Pennsylvania instead of Lambertville, New Brunswick or Red Bank. The laws for licensing for a micro-distillery are well nigh incomprehensible. Last but not least there is the whole morass of laws regarding the obtaining a permit to sell alcoholic beverages. One such component of these laws prohibits a person (or corporation which is a "legal" person for purposes of the law) from holding more than two permits statewide. In effect this allows only two stores in a Grocery chain to sell beer or wine. Grocers have sought to have this law overturned for decades. Their self interest aside such a change would benefit the consumer and the environment.

The present method of liquor distribution in our state involves chosen "distributors" who have "territories" and are the only ones that can legally buy from a Winery/Brewery/Distillery they then peddle their wares to retail outlets. This system limits the availability of some brands in some areas. Some distributors choose to flex their muscles and force retailers to sell certain brands at the expense of others. This can be done by various means such as by threatening to cut a retailers allocation of a brand that sells well if they do not buy a quota of slower selling brands. Other more subtle interference may involve product placement and in store promotions or declining to carry smaller producer's products without incentives. The current system limiting the number of outlets a permit holder can own reinforces the bargaining disparity between retailers and distributors by keeping retailers small. A chain of Grocery outlets could use its purchasing power to buy in bulk and pass the savings along - as happens outside the Garden State.

The distributors are not happy with this proposal, small surprise, they like the status quo, and they have enlisted the help of the retailers by warning of doom and gloom. The mom and pop liquor stores, the story goes, will be phased out if you allow the sale of beer and wine at grocery outlets. The analogy they point to is the alleged elimination of the mom and pop hardware stores where a Home Depot or Lowes has made an appearance. Now it does not take a rocket scientist to know that the level of service that a small local store can provide far exceeds what the Big Box stores have on offer. Successful local business owners have adapted emhasized personal service and are generally none the worse for appearance of their super-sized competition. Small liquor stores will continue to operate as they always have by providing exemplary personal service (including familiarity with their products and customers), readily accessible stock, short lines and wider varieties of brewed, fermented and distilled products. They can continue to special order products for their customers, deliver kegs and ice and differentiate themselves from a chain grocers at many turns. One thing the mom and pops may see is better service from their distributors who will continue to have a vested interest in having their retailers succeed.

As a consumer we will see lower prices, more convenience (less separate errands) and perhaps some more respectful treatment of beer. Beer being sold as a food accompaniment and not as an adornment for young lithe models. Imagine if you will someone selling beer without a cut-out of a bikini clad model. Beer and food pairings coming to the fore and included in store recommended recipes. Beer is, after all, just another food product why not treat it like one?

If you are wondering how this will work, just visit the Shop Rite in Middletown or our local whole Foods. Some Grocer's, like Trader Joe's, have their own craft beers bottled on their label. Imagine being able to swing by Costco and buy your ribs, veggies and salads as well as beer and wine in one stop. Less driving, less pollution less precious leisure time spent shopping.

Cooking With Beer - Beef Short Ribs

2009-01-12T08:06:00.011-05:00

Beer is food. It is Water, Grain, Yeast and some type of flavoring, usually hop flowers (which also happen to be a natural preservative). Through the miracle of fermentation wherein the yeast feeds on the sugars in the grain and converts them to alcohol this mixture becomes beer. With aging beer develops body, flavor and effervessence. Like wine and other alcoholic beverages beer can fit the bill as an ingredient in many dishes. For example, one might consider using beer as the acid component in a marinade. Beer also stars in batters and breads and sauces - more on this in another column.

Let's start with the most basic use of beer in cooking - marinades - marinades impart flavor to food, increase some foods ability to retain moisture during cooking and also tenderize certain foods. Often the use of a marinade is a means of taking a relatively modest cut of meat and making it more attractive as a main course - think Corned Beef.

As with all ingredients care must be taken to use the correct type of beer for the marinade. A delicate or mildly flavored dish such as most seafood would be overpowered by a coffee stout, on the other hand coffee stout might just be perfect with beef short ribs or chili rubbed flank steak. Conversely using a delicate pilsner in a highly spiced recipe may be next to pointless as the beer will be - quite literally - lost in the sauce. Here is a recipe for short ribs based on one used for Bison ribs in Bon Appetit Magazine. I have substituted coffe stout for some of the coffee and water in the original recipe. I have also reduced some of the other sugars as well to offset the malty sweetness found in many stouts.

Coffee Stout-Marinated Short Ribs

Adapted From Bon Appétit (February 2008)

Servings: Makes 6 servings

Marinade:

4 cups water
1 -12 ounce bottle Coffee Stout or Coffee Porter (Try Founder's Breakfast Stout or Goose Island's Coffee Stout)
1/2 cup coarse kosher salt*
3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (packed) dark brown sugar
1/4 cup pure maple syrup
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

4 pounds Beef short ribs, cut between ribs to separate into individual servings and to increase the surface area for the marinade to penetrate and browning.

Short Ribs:

1/4 cup chopped bacon (about 1 1/2 ounces)
2 cups chopped onions
1/2 cup chopped shallots
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 small jalapeño chile, seeded, chopped
1 cup coffee stout
1 cup low-salt chicken broth
1/4 cup chili sauce (such as Heinz) or ketchup
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon soy sauce

Preparation

For marinade:

Stir 4 cups water, 1 bottle of stout, 1/2 cup kosher salt, and sugar in large bowl until salt and sugar dissolve. Add syrup and next 3 ingredients; stir. Add ribs. Place plate atop ribs to keep submerged. Cover and chill at least 4 to 6 hours. Drain ribs; discard marinade. DO AHEAD: Drained ribs can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and chill.

For short ribs:
Preheat oven to 325°F. Sauté bacon in heavy large wide ovenproof pot over medium heat until beginning to brown. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to plate. Increase heat to medium-high. Sprinkle ribs with salt and pepper. Working in batches, cook ribs until browned on all sides, about 7 minutes per batch. Transfer to large plate. Add onions, shallots, garlic, and jalapeño to pot. Reduce heat to medium, cover, and cook until vegetables are soft, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add coffee stout and broth; stir, scraping up browned bits. Add chili sauce and all remaining ingredients; bring to boil. Add bacon and ribs, cover, and transfer to oven. Braise until meat is tender, about 2 hours 15 minutes. DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 days ahead. Cool slightly. Chill uncovered until cold, then cover and keep chilled. Rewarm in 325°F oven until heated through, about 20 minutes, before continuing.

Transfer ribs to plate; tent with foil to keep warm. Skim fat from surface of sauce. Boil sauce until reduced to 2 cups, about 5 minutes. Pour sauce over ribs.

Pair with more coffee stout - or a dry stout such as Guiness which is lighter bodied but very roasty. Now some of you may be alarmed by the amount of Salt this recipe calls for. Remember this is for the marinade which is discarded. Also the salt serves a purpose here. Salt's role is to pull the other flavors of the marinade into the meat. It does this by someting akin to osmsis. Osmosis is the natural process of of a soluble seeking equilibrium by moving from an area with a higher concentration to one with a lower concentration. Salt will move from the marinadeinto the meat (pulling the beer, water and sugars and other flavors with it, at the same time it increases the salt content in the meat which increases the meats ability to retain moisture. The salt also breaks down the celluar structure of the beef. Much like brining a turkey this will ensure a moister more tender meat. If you intend to marinate for more than 4-6 hours you will probably want to dial back on the amount of salt you use. If you do not have Kosher Salt you can use table salt but use a bit less.

What can be better than braised short ribs and mashed potoes or polenta on a cold January day. Enjoy!

The King of Beers...

2009-01-11T10:30:00.000-05:00

…And other superlatives. We all recognize that self anointed appellation for a famous and iconic light American Lager. But that is not the topic for this week’s missive. I am referring to the increasing emergence of extreme beers. I am referring to beers with high alcohol by volume, tongue blistering quantities of hops and additives ranging from Muscat grapes to espresso. I am referring to the proliferation of Über/Imperial/Double/Triple (insert name here) "Style"Ale/Lagers.
In the beginning of the craft brewing movement there were always high gravity beers. Notably that Holy Grail of brewing the Russian Imperial Stout- a historic style that was first brewed in Burton-On-Trent at the request of the Tsar. This mighty brew was crafted to withstand the rigors of a sailing vessel Baltic Passage from Liverpool to Saint Petersburg thence overland to Moscow. High in alcohol and heavily hopped the style was the perfect accompaniment to a rich feast that might feature a whole Volga Sturgeon, Wooly Mammoth meat recovered from the Siberian permafrost and pies made from hundreds of songbirds. A mighty brew indeed to accompany such a rich repast. There are other traditional heavyweights: the so called "Old Ales", Barleywines, Doppelbocks, Eisbocks and Baltic Porters and of course the ever popular, despite being taste challenged, American Malt Liquor. But lately it seems every brewer is getting on the high gravity band wagon and it has morphed into other styles "Double White/Wit", Imperial or Double India Pale and Imperial Pilsner to name three.
The Wit and Pilsner styles were always brewed as a hot weather quencher with mild hop profiles, a balanced light malt presence, floral aromas and moderate alcohol levels. A refreshing and "genteel" brew well suited for a hot afternoon. Not content to leave well enough alone, some brewers have decided to push the envelope. Traditional styles have had there hop profiles dramatically increased and their malt levels doubled or tripled. The resulting concoctions bear little resemblance to their forbears. I often find the only indication of the brews "origin" is on the packaging. Somehow the idea of a 9% alcohol "Imperial Pilsner" is not appealing to me. I am all for taste calling but something an "Imperial Pilsner" simply because you amped up the ABV is somewhat disrespectful of the style. Southampton Brewing brews a Double White while flavorful in some regards it seems to be an attempt to brew stronger ale because you can.
Do I have an answer for this proliferation of "Über" styles and super brews? No, indeed I am all for the judicious application of individualism to a style to create a new standard of excellence- but do we always has to have more alcohol in there? What is wrong with quaffable session beers anyway? Take a "Double White" as an example. Why not stick with a solid white and use a locally grown grain bill? Age the hops before brewing, as was done on the original? Change the types of adjunct flavorings such as the type of dried orange peel used or another type of citrus rind? Or Kaffir Lime leaves? Cultivate a new yeast strain? In other words go ahead and try to make the brew your own but brew for more Flavor not more alcohol.
An interesting tidbit as respects River Horse Brewing, a Garden State brewer whose beers, in the past where generally unadventurous an underwhelming. The buyer at our local whole Foods advises that they have a new management and brewing team. This apparently has resulted in a new brewing philosophy and some darn fine brews. I recently enjoyed their Oatmeal Milk Stout and found it wonderfully rich and quite tasty. The Oatmeal gave it a very silky mouth feel and the hint of lactose was paired nicely with an appropriate hopping level. All in all a solid brew and I am hoping it is a harbinger of the great things to come form River Horse. I will have to re-try some of their standard brews and give them a fair chance. We all need to be mindful that in our fragile economy we need to support our local brewers or we risk sliding back into a an era where the only beer available is mass market beer.

Pumpkin Ales and Holiday Brews

2008-12-26T08:44:00.011-05:00

The wind along the Bay shore is ripping the tops off the waves as we race across the Sandy Hook Bay on our way to Lower Manhattan. Inside the passenger compartment of the Seastreak Highlands we are warm and dry. The windows are sheathed with salt slush and the only view to be had is through the stern glazing...35 minutes later safely ensconced at my desk overlooking Water Street I ponder the season and the sights and smells of the holidays. My last posting struck a somber tone as our economy started its nose-dive seemingly to oblivion. Now, I am cautiously optimistic or 2009 and beyond.

In my mind I had formulated a rather lengthy pumpkin ale based post and a holiday ale based one as well. Alas, the season got away from me and both posts will be merged. After all they are more, or less, variations on the same theme.

Let's start with the brewers "homage" to the mighty gourd. That orange globe that is at once heroic in size and decidedly bland in palate. Pumpkin is an ingredient but not a star performer, it is canvas and not paint. It has some earthy qualities but it needs to be flavored to be noticed. Looking at some of the examples that are out there consider there is Dogfish Head "Punkin" a 7% behemoth with a palate of cloves and Cinnamon, perhaps some mace painted on an earthy yeasty background. Not an everyday drinking beer but pleasant enough and very approachable as a warmer for a cool October evening. Nothing overpowering in this one, nicely balanced, the hops and malty sweetness are paired and balanced with the spice mix and a whiff of boozy alcohol. Punkin is somewhere on the extreme end of the palate. Of more normal proportions are the offerings from Brooklyn (5% ABV "Post Road Pumpkin") and Smuttynose 's "Pumpkin Ale." Both are caramel colored subtle mixtures of holiday spice and sweet malt. Reviewer's often claim that "pumpkin taste" is discernable. My palate is not sensitive enough to pick out the earthiness of the mighty gourd - but the cognoscenti say they are there. Both are drinkable and subtle enough to make these offerings drinkable over the course of an evening. If variety is the spice of life these brews are significantly different enough to be a nice diversion for an otherwise jaded palate.

Consider pairing these with poultry and beef as well as that staple holiday dessert - pumpkin pie - of course. I might be inclined to enjoy one of these with a mild after dinner cigar as well.

On to the holiday ales. Often a boozy, frequently spicy and alcoholic style that is, to me, the brewer's version of of "comfort food." Some have spices and some do not, some are rather heavy and others are more moderate in dimension. Colors range from caramel to pitch black. Some are so full flavored and spicy they can stand up to being warmed or mulled and others may make a suitable marinade for beef , venison or pork. Around the holidays this style proliferates. Being called interchangeably "holiday ale", "winter warmers", "Christmas Ale" or other "seasonally appropriate" appellations. Consider the humorously named "Bad Elf", "Seriously Bad Elf" and "Criminally Bad Elf" as typical - if extreme - examples.

Any purchase of these ales may warrant some advanced research or at least careful shopping. If the idea of a "spiced" ale does not appeal to you, read the label to be sure your purchase includes no spices. If you are looking for a "warmer" check the ABV often located on the six-pack carrier if not on the individual bottles.

On the spicy end of the spectrum Sam Adam's "Old Fezziwig" seems to have quite a following, I fall squarely in the non-spiced camp with Berkshire's "Cabin Fever" (6.3% ABV) my preferred tipple. Malty with a balanced, hoppy finish Cabin Fever rewards the contemplative imbiber with a rich palate of flavors.

The Pumpkin and Holiday Ales afford the beer drinker the opportunity to enjoy a seasonally inspired and robust warming beverage on these bitter cold Bay shore nights. As we count down to 2009 consider your drinking options carefully. Might I also suggest, if your New Years Eve plan's include a glass or two, you consider staying home and spending the money you will save on some truly outstanding and flavorful ales?

Happy New Years to all.

Stretching Your Beer Drinking Buck

2008-07-29T11:45:00.001-04:00

Times are tough. You now need a home equity line to fill up the gas tank of your Suburban. Your home mortgage lender is likely insolvent. Feeding your children requires a second job. Worse than that, Anheuser-Busch just announced it's packing up and moving to Belgium…wait this last one may not be a bad thing. That said how are we going to survive hard times without affordable quality beer?

All is not lost sports fans – despite soaring grain and hop prices, not to mention shipping costs - you can still drink well and for not a lot of money (Okay, Okay -- yeah you the morally outraged one in the third row -- lets just dispense with the whole “why are you buying beer when you can’t afford food shock and outrage” this is a BEER COLUMN not a guide to healthy responsible living… Phew got that out of my system, must be the heat or the pending $700 a month ferry price. The weather is hot, the economy is cooling and tempers are flaring -- a properly cooled ale or lager on the front porch – under the new ceiling fans (Thanks Al) is what I need.

Point 1 – Craft Beer is still not a Bad Deal!

You can still buy world-class craft beers for around $8- $10 a six pack for home consumption. Drink three of bottles of a craft brew for just $5 bucks. Aside from a Bottle of “Three Buck Chuck” at Trader Joe’s try and find a single bottle of decent wine at that price?

Point 2 -It’s About the Taste Stupid!

But it's not just about the price. You want good value and taste for your hard earned coin. We are not at the Weimar Republic inflation rates yet (though I do have my wheelbarrow cleaned, oiled and at the ready). Sure, you can still find a $15 case out there, but at that price you get what you pay for. In the case of, say, Natural Light or Old Milwaukee, that would be mainly corn, hops extracts and lots of filtered city water.

When bargain hunting you should look at a brews ABV - alcohol by volume - the higher the alcohol by volume, the more malt needed to get there. More malt usually means more hops to offset the sweetness with the end result being a more complex flavor. More ingredients usually mean a higher price, too. I say usually as there is a whole market segment devoted to high alcohol low taste brews like “Steel Reserve” and “Mickey’s Big Mouth” these brews use corn and other flavorless adjuncts to boost ABV without adding anything to the palate – except a nice “Corny” taste. Blecch!

For price/ABV comparison consider Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA (9 percent ABV), at $10 a four pack as compared to Dogfish’s 60 Minute IPA (6 percent ABV) for $8 or $9 for a six-pack. Less ingredients = lower price. Dale’s TenFidy Imperial Russian Stout (10%ABV) $11.99 for a four pack of 12 ounce cans vs. $16 for a twelve pack of Dale’s Pale Ale at 6.8% ABV. Thusly forearmed, you can now seek out some very tasty bargains.

Dale’s Pale Ale a robust and flavorful IPA with a blistering hop kick at 6.8% ABV $9.00 a six pack (of cans) at Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank.

Dales TenFidy an incredibly well balanced brew that has a nice hop profile, strong notes of espresso and bittersweet chocolate. 10% ABV $11.00 for a four pack at Spirits in Red Bank.

Stoudt's Fat Dog, an exceptionally smooth, easy-drinking imperial oatmeal stout with huge chocolate notes, 9%ABV. Look for it at Spirits Unlimited in Middletown and Red Bank.

Paulaner Salvator:$7.99 a sixer 7.2 percent ABV. A double bock from Germany with caramel/chocolate flavor and a creamy body. You can sometimes get this at Vingo. definitely at Spirts Unlimited

Bear Republic Racer 5: $4.00/22-ounce “Bomber” bottle. 7 percent ABV.

Saranac Black and Tan (and others): 5.4 percent ABV. Usually $6 -7 for a sixer. For fans of the style this one's an easy sipper with a sweet finish. Most Saranc brews are a good value (Note- JW Dundee products come from the same brewery and go for even less…)

Troegs Sunshine Pils: $7.99 a six-pack. 5.3 percent ABV. A crisp, light Czech style pilsner for less than a buck and a half a bottle?

Or how about a blend? Mix 2 ounces of Dogfish Head Burton Baton $3.49 a 12 ounce bottle (10% ABV) with a 12 ounce CAN (NOT THE BOTTLES PLEASE!!!) of Ballentine Ale (5.3% ABV) $4.50 for six cans and enjoy a rare and flavorful treat. Ballentine is an American Classic and the Burton Baton adds an oaken and spicy hop dimension and a rich amber tint to an inexpensive “frat house” brew.

Can't find these brands? Look for any of the brews from Troegs, Victory, Brooklyn, Long Trail, and Smuttynose.

These are some places to start. If you have another suggestions drop me a line…

Coldest Beer in Town

2008-07-29T11:17:00.001-04:00

This has been a pretty typical morning for the Bayshore. Hazy blue skies, gulls screaming and a gentle breeze from the North. Last night we watched from our porch as several groups of teens walked down the street toward First Avenue. We exchanged greetings as they faded into the darkness. We suspected that they might be headed for Mike’s to grab a cold soft drink and a snack before it closed and when they returned a short while later empty handed we were surprised. Well this morning as I walked to the ferry I could follow their trail of litter back to First Avenue. Hostess Cupcakes, Combos, Arizona Iced Teas and some sports drink or another thoughtlessly discarded a few feet from a trash can. It just makes you wonder what they do at home. These are, by all measures, good kids from nice families. But of course as the parent of a teen I already know the answer. They do the same thing. Yogurt cups and plastic bottles secreted about the basement. Bowls from a second breakfast abandoned on the third floor. It is frustrating because you try to do the right thing. You teach them the value of nature and the importance of protecting the environment as well as the need to dispose of food waste properly to avoid vermin at home. You remind them to recycle and reuse and in a fleeting moment the wrapper is discarded and the sugar fix is gulped down… Were we this way? Of course we were…

So, tonight as I walk home I will collect the wrappers and cans and dispose or recycle as needed. And someday these lads, somewhat older and wiser, will hopefully do the same thing…

As I round the corner I am treated to a near miss between two drivers youthful too focused on their cell phones to drive carefully, and exchange greetings with a school custodian. We just smile and shake our heads at what we have just seen. Moving on down First Avenue I exchange greetings with a motorcyclist on East Mount, a Council Member outside the Bagel Store and two fishermen coming up from the harbor to grab some breakfast in town. Looks to be a normal day in Atlantic Highlands…

This is a beer column so at some point I have to get around to writing something beer related.

So today let’s talk temperature. The late Michael Jackson author of several books on Scotch and Beer once said that the saddest four words in the English language were “Coldest Beer in Town.” As a Brit one might expect this type of comment but what was he really trying to say? As a young lad I was a Boy Scout and spent many a summer evening around a roaring fire listening to the leaders and parents compare stories of their military service during the Second World War. There was always a comment like the English and the Germans like their beer warm. This was usually uttered as a derisive comment as if any nation that did not ice down their beer was somehow a lesser nation. Well there are two sides to the coin and we are becoming a culture that is taking a closer look at what we eat and drink. Websites like Beer Advocate, Rate Beer and Chow.com look at beer as not just a drink but as a companion to fine food. With wines we are told to serve some wines chilled, some cooled and some at room temperature to allow the wine to express itself properly. With Scotch we are told to add some water to “open up” the nose and flavor. So too with serving beer - temperature is important. Ales which are top fermented at warmer temperatures and then cellared to mature, taste better cooled to cellar temp. In some styles such as English Bitter this warmer temperature (warmer but still cooled) will allow the subtle flavors of malt and fruity yeast to compete with the fragrant and floral Kents, Fuggles and Goldings hops typically used in the style. Other ale styles such as the American Pale Ales are highly hopped and can stand up to colder temperatures - but you will miss something – balance. For example take Sierra Nevada Pale Ale which is a typical American Pale Ale. Serve it icy cold in a chilled glass and all you will taste is the hops. - grapefruit, citrus and the other sharp tastes associated with Cascades, Yakimas and other West Coast hops. Bracing and refreshing - yes but let it warm a bit and it becomes a different beer. The biscuit and sweet malt notes start to emerge from behind the blast of hops.

Lager beers are another story. They are fermented at cooler temperatures over a period of weeks not days like the typical ale so they have a crisp flavor profile that will stand up better to a cooler serving temperature. As they warm you will notice some sweetness but there is very little there. Lager styles, especially the pale ones, use lightly toasted malts so the color will be very pale and there will be little in the way of un-fermentable sugars. Darker lagers such as Bocks and Double Bocks, while still lager styles, will have a malty sweet profile and will taste better a little warmer.

Do I ever drink ice cold beer? You bet. Industrial Beers like Budweiser, Miller and Coors (in all their variations light, lime , select, ultra etc.) are, in my opinion, best enjoyed at palate numbing temperatures. The same goes for the clear bottle beers of Mexico and the Caribbean. (Modelo, Carib, Kalik, Corona, Tecate, Pacifico and Sol.) All of which benefit greatly from the addition of citrus and a pre-chilled glass. The same applies to most mass produced European beers like Heineken, Stella Artois These are where you turn for quick refreshment after working in the Garden or a day at the beach. When the first beer is going to be gone in a few minutes and the tongue will not be afforded a chance to explore the beer’s palate. Come to think of it ice-water also works here… and Becks.

So serving temperature is important but there is no right or wrong here, there is just personal preference. So next time, as you sip a cold beer take note of how the beer changes as it warms. You decide what is the best temperature for you for that beer.

Waiter - There is Fruit in My Beer

2008-06-24T13:44:00.002-04:00

Waiter there’s fruit in my beer…

Usually I do not like to adulterate my beer. I don’t usually care for lemon in my hefeweizen, nor do I generally care for orange in my Blue Moon or Hoegaarden (both Belgian Wit styled brews). I will however take lime in the “cheaper” Mexican beers (note “cheap” refers to quality, not price as Corona is not all that cheap). In fact, I feel no guilt whatsoever in adulterating these bland brews from south of the border. While it seems the lime is ubiquitous around the Bay Shore as an accompaniment to Mexican light lagers, what is less common is the addition of salt as a glass “rimmer” as one finds in Texas and the arid South West. Presumably the salt helps the drinker retain water to offset the diuretic effects of the alcohol. Over the years the concept of adding to the flavor of a beer (so called “beer cocktails”) got me thinking and experimenting. So here are some of my less zany combinations.

Lime and Beer - I like lots of lime flavor so I rub the edge of my glass with a lime wedge. I then rim the glass with a mix of salt and a little chili powder or smoked paprika. A gentle touch here may be appropriate. I then squeeze the lime wedge into the glass, pour in the beer (Corona/Modelo/Sol or Tecate) preferably from a can as clear bottles tend to be have skunky brews and enjoy. This combo is refreshing and easy. It also imparts big flavor to an otherwise bland brew. You can pack the ingredients to go for a day at the Beach.

In Kansas City, where we lived for a few years, folks sometimes drank “Red Beer” this is a mixture of light lager beer such as Bud/Miller/Coors (BMC) and tomato juice. To this combo I substituted V-8 and added fresh lime juice, a dash of Tabasco and a salt and black pepper rim. Why the name “Red Beer?” I am guessing it had something to do with the “Big Red” that are the one and only “Nebraska Cornhuskers.” As Kansas City is a barbecue town and barbecuing in 95 degree weather is hot work, a person partaking in the manly art of ‘cue’ needs to stay hydrated and somewhat sober. My version of Red Beer fits the bill nicely, its light bodied, boldly flavored and high in sodium and vitamins. You might try using Clamato and a cooked shrimp, as a garnish, for a “Bay Shore” twist.

Gin and beer - okay this is definitely one for the historically inclined. Imagine a night in the 1800’s. You are a sailor and your ship is docked in Hamburg after delivering a cargo of Baltic Fir. The local spirits are Korn, Steinhager Gin or Genever Gin and the beer of choice is a light pale German lager such as Hansa or Dortmund Pils. In Northern Europe Juniper is a common flavor in food and spirits, and in some countries’, such as Finland, Juniper and Spruce can be found in the beer as well… So try this, add a splash of your favorite Gin (I like Plymouth) to a light pilsner to add some floral notes to the nose and some spicy botanicals to the palate. Not for everyone, but it works for me. A gentle touch here is best, as with Gin, a little goes a long way… you can always add more. You can pair this with stinky cheese, onions, dark bread, smoked meats and pickled fish if you really want to be authentic. Brawling and debauchery are optional…

The Chelada or Michelada. This one comes from south of the Border and incorporates aspects of Beer and Lime and “Red Beer.” While everyone has their own preferences I tend to start by wetting the rim of a glass with lime and rimming it with a mix of chipotle powder or chili powder and kosher salt. Then into the glass I add the juice of half a lime, a splash of Worcestershire sauce, a splash of Tabasco (more or less to taste) and a splash of Maggi or Soy Sauce, you can top this of with 12 ounces of any Mexican Light Lager. If you want more flavors you can increase the quantities of lime juice, Worcestershire, Tabasco and Maggi as needed. Ice is optional. Garnish with a lime wedge.

You can premix the liquids and put them in a plastic bottle to add to your beer when you arrive at your destination. Mix up your rimmer in a shallow, wide mouthed, lidded plastic container as well. Some lime wedges, a well stocked picnic hamper, a cooler and it’s off you go.

Other possible beer pairings include Lemonade and lemon-lime soda im the UK this is called a “Shandy” and in Germany a “Radler” or “Cyclist”. You get the idea; your only limits are your imagination and you thirst.

Are You Going to San Francisco…

2008-06-12T11:11:00.000-04:00

(Continued from last week) …I attended a reception at “Annabelles” across from the San Francisco Marriot. At 7:00 p.m. I linked up with my fellow “beer hunters” and the four of us hopped in a cab for Haight-Ashbury and the “Magnolia.”

At first glance Magnolia has a Psychedelic Logo painted on the façade that belies the traditional pub-like interior. Inside is austere -- water stained walls, high ceilings, dark wood with some booths and both common and separate tables. The bar runs the length of the building and has about eight taps serving traditional keg beer with CO2 and four ales on “Cask.” Our server was both cheerful and well informed as to the nuances of each beer. I dove right into the Cask offerings I started with the Bluebird Bitter (fabulously refreshing with a wonderful mouth feel, a delicate natural carbonation and a pleasing, mildly hoppy aroma) and I asked our server for samples of their Mild and their Brown Ales - both were superb. I elected to order a pint of the Brown (Crisp, lightly carbonated and not at all sweet like the common brown ales that are available in our area). The Brown Ale paired rather nicely with the Quail and spring carrots that I chose for my entrée. In a moment of quiet reverie I silently toasted John Thaw of “Inspector Morse” fame and reflected on the virtues of the often overlooked style that is the “English Brown.” Morse was clearly on to something…

Our repast complete and a busy Monday ahead, we paid our tab and went out into the now quite chilly San Francisco night. One of my companions’s started humming the melody of the song that is the title of this week’s column. We passed a few moments waiting for a cab trying to remember who sang the song in question. Alas, it eluded us all and we arrived at the hotel resolved to look it up prior to turning in.

All things considered it had been a great visit so far, but the best was yet to come.

As an aside some might wonder what exactly is the difference between “tap or draught” beer and “cask” beer. Ingredient wise they are similar it is the delivery system and the source of carbonation that vary. In traditional “draws” such as one might find at the local establishments, CO2 is used to propel the beer from a keg to the tap and thence to the glass. With Cask no CO2 is involved -- gravity or a hand pump provides the means of transport. With cask beers the only carbonation is that which occurs naturally as a byproduct of a secondary fermentation in the “cask.”

Monday dawned with an impossibly blue sky and warm sunshine. I had a few more meetings and a 2”O’clock appointment to tour the Anchor Brewery…

In a word the Anchor Brewery tour was awesome. Our guide, Lindsay, a Jersey Girl, shepherded us through the brewing room with its massive copper kettles and immaculate tile flooring… In the process she explained the history of Anchor Brewing and possible origins of the unique San Francisco styled “steam beer.” Visits to the hop room the traditional flat cooling trays and bottling room followed.

Anchor brews 500,000 barrels a year. Approximately 70% of that total is their signature Steam Beer the rest being divided up amongst their 3 other regular brews (Anchor Porter, Liberty Pale Ale and Old Foghorn Barley Wine) 2 seasonal styles (Anchor Bock and Anchor Summer) and 2 specialty brews (Anchor Small Beer and Christmas Ale). They brew five batches per day, five days a week. Anchor has 60 employees and has no present intention of moving or growing. They prefer to stay small and local and follow their current model. Bit of trivia – Anchor is owned and operated by Fritz Maytag, a member of the Iowa Maytag clan who decided Appliances and Blue Cheese were not for him and became a brewer instead. Fritz first enjoyed Anchor as a graduate student studying Japanese History and Literature and when he found out the Brewery was in financial trouble he made an investment and became a half owner. A few years later he bought his partners out and the rest is history. Anchor was a pioneer in the craft brewing movement and remains a well thought of brewery with a reputation for quality and taste.

Anchor has so-far avoided the “extreme” beer craze and I cannot say this is a bad thing. At the end of the tour we sampled most of the current Anchor brews with the exception of the “Small” and the “Christmas.” The Summer Ale is a 50% Wheat brew that is crisp, light on the palate and very refreshing. Pair this summer quencher with a warm bay shore evening on the front porch and some good friends – you get the idea. We worked our way through the rest of the line-up savoring the nuances of each style. At the end of the tasting I was ready to stock up on Anchor for the rest of the summer. I settled for some coasters, a baseball hat and a set of glasses…

I Left My Glass in San Francisco

2008-06-05T14:41:00.002-04:00

Apologies to Tony Bennett… as many of you know, this past week I traveled to San Francisco to attend a regulatory conference on behalf of my employer. Such trips present many opportunities including chances to interact with domestic and foreign regulatory officials and their staffs, catch up with friends and industry colleagues and last but not least what I like to call “Brew Tourism.” As I am confident you really have no interest in the regulations governing domestic and foreign reinsurers I will focus exclusively on the Brew Tourism aspect.

San Francisco, unlike Orlando, Florida and Grapevine, Texas presents the imbiber with an abundance of options. This past visit I arrived safely at my hotel and had a few hours to kill before my first meeting. This allowed my usual visit to World Beer on Folsom between 7th and 8th Streets. World Beer is an unassuming place with a few tables a few taps and a nice selection of bottled brews. As I had no time to imbibe I purchased three bottles brewed by Russian River (Three Belgian Style ales branded Perdition, Damnation and Salvation respectively) had a nice chat with the owner and then made my way back to the hotel to review my notes and prepare for my meetings.

Saturday was a long grind, numerous meetings a business breakfast and working lunch -- by dinner time I was numb and ready to enjoy a nice brew -- but where to go? Decisions, decisions… fortunately I have help. There is a small dedicated cadre of craft beer supporters that I have fallen in with. We met and decided to head across the Bay to Oakland for a beer and some dinner. First stop, The Trappist, a charming, impossibly narrow venue, with about 18 Belgian and Belgian styled beers on tap and several hundred more available in bottles. All beers were served in the proper style glass at an appropriate temperature for the style. We sampled and shared a Belgian Wit, a Trappist Quadrupel, a Belgian Brown, a Strong Golden and a Belgian Pale Ale. All were pronounced tasty and worthy of further exploration. The group decided we needed to grab a bite so it was on to another venue (The Trappist only having light cheese and fruit plates to offer).

Our next stop, just a short block away, was the Pacific Coast Brewing Company. A traditional Brew Pub with a standard pub fare on the menu. I had the Fish and Chips paired with their English Bitter which was on cask. Others enjoyed burgers and paired them with Pale Ales and Stouts. The Pacific Coast brews were solid and well crafted. Nobody was disappointed with their meal and we left satisfied and ready to hop on the BART and get back to the hotel.

Sunday started with an 8:00 a.m. meeting and several more that occupied my time until noon. The rest of my day was open until 5:00 so I headed ‘up country’ along route 101 to Santa Rosa and the Russian River Brewing Company. An hour and a half later I settled into a table with a nice glass of their Belgian Wit Beer paired with a Caesar Salad topped with Smoked Salmon. Russian River is a highly acclaimed brewery that brews traditional ales and stouts as well as a line of “Belgians.” Being pressed for time, I purchased a Growler of their “Blind Pig” IPA to share with the group and a bottle of “Supplication,” their homage to the spontaneously fermented brews of Belgium, to bring home, perhaps, more on this in another column.

I attended the reception at 5:00 hooked up with my colleagues and four of us hopped in a cab for Haight Ashbury and the “Magnolia.” At first glance Magnolia has a Psychedelic Logo painted on the façade that belies the traditional pub-like interior. Inside is austere, dark wood with some booths and both common and separate tables. The bar runs the length of the building and has about eight taps serving traditional keg beer with CO2 and four ales on “Cask.” Our server was both cheerful and well informed as to the nuances of each beer. I dove right into the Cask offerings I started with the Bluebird Bitter (fabulously refreshing with a wonderful mouth feel, a delicate natural carbonation and a pleasing, mildly hoppy aroma) and I also tasted their Mild and their Brown both were superrb. I elected to order a pint of the Brown and it paired rather nicely with the Quail and Spring carrots that I chose for my entrée.

All things considered it was a great visit so far, but the best was yet to come.

A pint of bitter please...

2008-05-28T10:59:00.007-04:00

In 1983 I was a young intern at the eminently restrained Lloyd's Broker "Hogg, Robinson, Gardner & Mountain Ltd. " lodged on Crutched Friars, London England. The title of this article hearkens back to those salad days... London was hot that year, I recall the envious looks of my co-workers as they marvelled at my lightweight, American made, worsted wool suits. Their eminently respectable British wool was thick and heavy, more like my Citadel Dress Grays than the international uniform of reinsurance and commerce. On the way to the 'tube' or on a Saturday after touring the city, a pint of bitter was just the ticket to wet your whistle and sharpen ones appetite.

The "bitters" in London are served "cooled to cellar temp" not warm, nor icy cold, just cooled. They were "pulled" by hand pump from a cask in the cellar into a delightful and easy grip pint "jar" or a dimpled mug --and were not at all bitter. They were gently carbonated, deliciously malty with a floral hop nose. What they weren't is "bitter." Not sure at all where the name comes from but the style of beer that is the English Bitter is an easy drinking beer that does not overwhelm the palate and does not bloat you with carbonation.

Eric Azimov wrote a great column for today's New York Times (Wed 5/28/08) that goes into more detail and includes tasting notes. Rather than replicate that here I point you in that direction for further and more detailed info on the style and tasting notes.

As we transition from a wet cool spring to a warm summer on the bay shore many of you will reach for a Corona or another pale, fizzy, lager beer. Sometimes with a piece of citrus perched on it other times without. I say "hold the lager mate and give me a pint of bitter. " Great beers are just a short jaunt away...

Our local Vingo here in Atlantic Highlands has a few bitters on hand even as I type this. Consider sampling Fuller's London Pride or Fullers ESB from England or Brooklyn's Pennant Ale from Brooklyn Brewing. while touring the British Isles, also at Vingo are Theakston Brewing's "Old Peculier" (not a typo) a delightful Yorkshire Ale that has profile similar to a true "bitter" and further north to the land of the Kilt and the Claymore are Belhaven's Scotch Ale and Long Trail's Hibernator, nothing like a bitter but a a nice, gently warming, malty, smoky, study in contrasts from the "bitters" of the South.

Real Men drink from a Glass

2008-05-16T22:38:00.007-04:00

It never ceases to amaze me that there are folks out there that believe that drinking beer from a glass is elitist and something for the weak willed. Alas, nothing could be further from the truth.
Now listen up all you working stiffs, I'll put this in very simple terms. You work hard all day, and the fruit of your labors is something you take pride in, be it an automobile, a widget, a well tallied spreadsheet, a nicely drafted contract-- or whatever . You want the end-user to appreciate your craft and treat it with dignity and respect the amount of work that you put into it. So too with brewers, they take pride in their product and want you to enjoy it at its best. They want it served fresh, at an appropriate temperature and from a clean glass so that you can marvel at the color and carbonation, allow the brew to form a proper head, smell the roasted malt and hop notes and taste it and enjoy as they intend you to. Just as you hate to see your hard work discarded, unused and unappreciated, watching someone slug down a well crafted beer straight from the can or bottle is an insult to the hard working men and women that made that marvel of nature that you are enjoying possible. Show some respect for the folks that labored hard for you -- be they union, non-union and/or self-employed. Show them you appreciate what they do and next time you're out ask your server for a glass. You will find you enjoy your beer more and you will be sending your brewer a message - the right message - I appreciate what you do.

Small Beer and Small Town Politics.

2008-05-15T14:01:00.003-04:00

Both are not for the unitiated. Small beer is a brew that is generally low in alcohol and fermented from the second mashing of batch of grain. The only domestic brewer that still offers small beer (that I know of that is) is Anchor Brewing of San Francisco. They brew a Barleywine called "Old Foghorn" and then ferment the mash a second time to make their "Small Beer". I found it an acquired taste. Likewise with small town politics. As most of the locals know my wife and I try to give something back. We participate in many local activities. My wife serves on the School Board, I serve on the Planning Board and we both volunteer our time and/or treasure to many local organizations. We also encourage our kids to do likewise. In a small town this gets you two things. Appreciation from the folks that appreciate what you do and scorn from folks that think you should "shaddup and moind your own ... &*$%^ newcomers" You learn to live with this though it seldom makes you happy...

Small beer anyone?

Pairing Food and Food.

2008-05-14T12:40:00.004-04:00

Here is a link to an interview with a master of the art of pairing food with great beer, Garrett Oliver, the brewmaster at the Brooklyn Brewery. Nuff said.

http://dcist.com/2008/05/13/chewing_the_fat_2.php

Extreme Beer and the Craft Beer Renaissance

2008-05-13T16:42:00.001-04:00

My friend Gene and I occasionally walk up to New Beer Distributors here in Manhattan to grab a bottle or two of something especially tasty that we have tried previously and sometimes we each grab something that appears unusual or intriguing. In today’s craft brewing renaissance this usually translates into what is sometimes referred to as an “extreme beer.” Just what is an extreme beer? Well that depends on who you ask. Some say it refers to highly hopped or high alcohol brews. Others say it refers to a departure from accepted styles such as adding fruit or spices to a traditional beer such as a Pomegranate Wheat Beer or a Chipotle Smoked Porter. Whatever definition suits you I think we can agree that some of these brews are exciting and others… well just plain wrong.

Gene is prone to saying that to him it seems that craft brewers are brewing some of these extreme beers for no other reason than “because they can.” I am inclined to agree with him. Nonetheless, beer is food and I have come around to thinking of it as an ingredient in cooking as well as a beverage. I can see the merits of adding a robust brew to flavor soups and stews. Sometimes a particular beer may add another layer of flavor to a pot of chile for example. The aforementioned chipotle smoked porter would be a prime candidate for this type of endeavor.

Other extreme beers make complex “sippers” that can take the bite out a chilly spring evening here on the Bay Shore. I have been enjoying a canned Imperial Stout with the improbable name of “Ten Fidy” as my evening warmer. Yes, I said canned as in aluminum cans. Brewed by Oskar Blues of Lyons Colorado and weighing in at an impressive 10% alcohol by volume, Ten Fidy is smooth and roasty like a stout should be without the cloying sweetness that pervades many other imperial stouts. At $10.50 for four 12 ounce cans it is a bit pricier than a traditional stout but well worth the additional expense.

While on the topic of extreme beer we cannot neglect the current trend/concept of “barrel aging.” Dogfish Head has its oak aged “Burton Baton”, There is Bourbon Barrel Stout from Goose Island and “Oaked Arrogant Bastard” from Stone Brewing. But these all pale with the apparent audacity of the folks at Iron Hill. Here is an excerpt from their latest press release:

“WILMINGTON, DE – Your Dad doesn’t have to love Johnny Cash to embrace Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant’s spicy Father’s Day treat: on Sunday, June 15, they will premier “Ring of Fire Porter,” an assertive brew sure to light Dad’s fire.
Crafted from Iron Hill’s own Pig Iron Porter, then aged and finished in a TABASCO® pepper mash oak barrel, this is a libation that will please beer and barbecue lovers alike. Better still, it arrives just in time for grilling season. Ring of Fire will be available in 375 ml bottles for $9 at all Iron Hill locations for dine-in and carry-out.
As the beer ages inside the oak Tabasco barrels, the heat and the pepper character mix with the roastiness and subtle chocolate notes of the porter, making this a steak-friendly beer with 5% alcohol that’s sure to be a summertime favorite for its sweet, smoky character and flavorful punch…”

I do not want to think about where the name “Ring of Fire” originates, though perhaps the morning after a few of these you may have a revelation … nevertheless I might try this as a marinade or a base for a homemade sauce or in a pot of chile.

Well whatever your preferences these days there is an extreme beer for you. And while Garrett Oliver may not be thrilled with this moniker I think the term “Extreme beer” is firmly entrenched in the brewing lexicon.

Another Reason to Like Sam Adam's...

2008-05-13T09:40:00.008-04:00

I read about this in several places on the web including a blog calle "Fabrichorse" where I nicked the above photo...

Apart from their Double Bock and Scotch Ale what is so good about Jim Koch and Samuel Adam's? Lot's apparently. For quite some time now people have brewed beer using barley, yeast, water and hops. These ingredients were happily plentiful and many made merry with modestly priced beer. Then, sports fans the hop regions suffered a drought and the hop vines that did not dry up and die outright fell victim to disease. The harvest was small. The brewers took comfort and solace in the old saw, "Well, one year won't kill us." With so many hops in the bank (warehouses), they might get a little more expensive.... " Did I say warehouse ... you all recall reading about a tragic fire in a major hops warehouse?? It even made it to the local papers. That fire consumed much of the nation's strategic hop reserve. Hops, that noble vine and key ingrdient in American craft beer-making (think IPA, Double IPA, Imperial IPA yada yada) became scarce. A scramble to find Hops was on, at least among the America's craft brewers. Distributors began to raise their prices, from $3 a pound to upwards of $30 a pound, and brewers began to worry. Just as a signficant diversity in American beer was settling in, marking a new "Golden Age of Brewing" on this side of the ocean, the microbrew industry faced an uncertain hopless future ... spruce tips anyone??? Ouch!!!

Most of the market's remaining hops were already contracted to huge breweries who could afford to finance a producer's entire hop crop. Craft brewries were calling their suppliers to no avail... Add to this the cost of Barley going up as more acres switched over to corn for ethanol and the future looked bleak indeed.

As this story sounds like something from the "Perils of Pauline" we need a white knight. And so it we have one in the unlikely form of Jim Koch and his Boston Brewing Company ("BBC") BBC has become part of the major leagues, if they brew craft brewed beers its clearly on a macro brew scale. They are a major national brewery whose beers are almost everywhere, but they still cling to the spirit of craft brewing. They brew some edgy beers such as their"Imperial Pilsner" and "Utopias". Every year in advance of the Great American Beer festival, they sponsor a homebrew competition and produce a mix-six of the top three brews (called "Longshot"). These practices keep them on the craft side of the Macro vs. Micro American Beer divide. When Koch heard about the impact of the hop shortage on small brewers, he set aside 20,000 pounds of BBC's own hops for small brewers to purchase at cost their cost which was-- far below market prices (apparently $6 a pound). Apparently a brewery could request up to 528 pounds each and brewers were asked to apply only if they really needed hops and not because they'd merely save money. Nearly 350 microbreweries applied for them, which is nearly a quarter of American brewers and the the lot of them were raffled off in a lottery. Way to go Mr. Koch.

In the meantime, beerlovers are hoping the next two harvests will be than the last. Hats off to BBC and their fine example. This is also fairly shrewd on BBC's part. Keeping the craft beer movement vibrant will only serve to strengthen BBC's standing with todays discriminating beer drinkers.

The Price of Beer

2008-05-08T08:32:00.004-04:00

Here is a great article from Jim Zebora that tries to explain the dramatically increasing price of beer. From the hop Shortage to the petroleum crunch its all there... A perfect storm of economics that does not bode well for craft brewing.

If barley is the heart of beer, hops are its soul. They contribute flavor, aroma, bitterness, body and so much more to a brew.
But these days they also contribute to beer's increased cost.
It may not be the worst of the world's crises, but the rising price of hops, delicate flowers that grow on a tall vine, certainly adds to the pain in the wallet caused by $4 gas and $5 milk.
Try finding a quality craft brew on a package store shelf for less than $8.99; it's almost impossible. Even budget beers that were selling for $12 per 30-pack a few months ago are three or four bucks higher today, though not all of that increase can be blamed on hop prices.
The reasons for hop inflation are myriad, but all pretty much within the bounds of an Economics 101 class. After several years of oversupply, when growers often had to sell their hop crop below cost, the opposite is now true.
Hops have had a couple of lousy years in the field, with crop yields well below normal. In addition, many hop farmers curtailed production rather than sell below cost and did not ramp up their growing as prices increased.
In some cases, they devoted their fields to more profitable crops and have not gone back to the Fuggles, Cascades, Saaz, Goldings and Northern Brewer varieties that make beer so fine to drink.
The result is that hop prices have at least doubled, and at the extreme hops can cost five or six times what they did a few years ago.
Big commercial brewers have been somewhat
insulated from the rise in hop prices. Companies such as Anheuser-Busch Inc. get a big percentage of the hops they use from their own farms in the Pacific Northwest and so are not competing on the open market for limited hop supplies.
The big brewers also tend to use fewer hops per barrel than smaller brewers, for recipe and scientific reasons, so their cost per barrel is less affected by hop prices. Budweiser hasn't seen the same percentage price increase at retail as have microbrews, for example.
The real casualties are microbrewers specializing in very hoppy beers - those with names such as Hop Devil, Hop Trip, Big Hop Harvest Ale, Hop Heaven, etc. - who can use three or four times the amount of hops per barrel as the big kids.
This is partly because they are seeking to give their customers the hoppiest experience they can, and partly because hop utilization - a measure of the alpha acids and other components they release into the brew as it is boiled - increases with the size of the batch.
Large breweries make beer in vats roughly the size of small oil tankers, but I've seen one very tiny micro whose brewing vat was barely bigger than a turkey fryer.
As a homebrewer, I quickly learned that hops varied in price depending on the variety, the preparation and the packaging. Noble hops such as Kent Goldings (used in pale ales) and Saaz (used in pilsners) could cost twice as much as varieties with more bitterness but less aroma and flavor.
The hop flowers are sometimes used in original form, but processing them into pellets gives greater yield, and also makes them easier to ship and store.
Back in the years of plenty, I could sometimes buy a pound of bittering hops for $8, and noble hops could be as low as $1 per ounce. Today, homebrewers are seeing three- and fourfold price increases in this essential ingredient.
Of course, hops aren't the only reason that beer is costing more. Cereal grain prices are also rising due to the diversion of much corn production to ethanol, and energy prices for brewing, conditioning and delivery are also boosting the bill.
Like oil, gasoline, bread and so many other staples of modern life, beer is simply getting more expensive. And we beer lovers just have to suck it up while we're guzzling it down.
*
Jim Zebora, managing editor of Greenwich Time, is a dedicated homebrewer and a contributor to Zymurgy, the magazine of the American Homebrewers Association. His column appears once a month. His e-mail address is jim.zebora@scni.com.

Beer in a Box

2008-05-07T08:28:00.000-04:00

This is something really cool...

Beer in a box by John Holl/Star-Ledger Staff
In a novel approach to the way freshly brewed beer can be carried home, a Hunterdon County brewery has decided to go the route long used by wine and more recently by coffee and soda purveyors. The Ship Inn Brew Pub in Milford now gives its customers the chance to buy its beer in a box.
“There really isn’t much of a learning curve,” said Tim Hall, the brewer. “There aren’t a lot of people doing this.”
Since it opened in 1995, patrons to the brewery have been able to take the brewed-on-premises beer home in half gallon jugs called growlers, that can be refilled multiple times, but Hall said a lot of the decision to switch to a cube was economical and environmental.
The boxes are inexpensive and biodegradable and are a favorable alternative to glass bottles. Hall, who has spent a lot of time abroad as both a student and tourist said that he was unaware of the stigma that boxed adult beverages have in the states.
“In Europe, it’s really good,” said Hall standing behind the dark wood bar on a chilly morning. “At first, I was getting strange looks from customers.”
Sideways glances did not last long however. The Ship Inn began to test the five and 10 quart boxes in the fall of 2006 and by last summer had made them a staple of the pub. The idea has caught on and they are now selling about an extra 100 gallons of beer each week.
A brew pub is defined as a restaurant that brews small batches of beer on premises. State law prohibits the pubs from selling their suds through distributors. A micro brewery is traditionally defined as one that produces up to 15,000 barrels per year. A barrel holds roughly 31 gallons.
Currently the Ship Inn has three of their homemade beers on tap. There is an English Bitter Style Ale, a cask conditioned -unfiltered and low carbonation beer served from a hand pump - ale and Golden Wheat beer that Hall calls more of a “lawn mower” beer, designed for people who still might be leery of craft brews.
Of the nearly two dozen brew pubs and micro breweries in the Garden State, the Ship Inn is the only one currently pouring into boxes, according to the state brewer’s guild.
Hall said he researched the idea for a few years and had to reconfigure the pub’s taps to accommodate the new system. In the spirit of fresh beer, they are only filled when ordered.
“You won’t find them sitting on a shelf or cooler,” he said.
There are a handful of brew pubs across the country that are also boxing their beer, including Rubicon Brewing in Sacramento, CA which has been offering gallon boxes for the last few years.
But in large, the idea of boxing beer is a new thing.
Julia Herz, a spokeswoman for the Brewers Association, a nonprofit group devoted to professional brewers, said that while “alternative packaging” has become a trend in craft brewing, she and others at the association had not heard of the cardboard contraptions.
“From a cost perspective it’s probably a helpful decision,” she said in a telephone interview from Colorado.
She noted that many craft brewers are also returning to the idea of cans - a container that can also carry a negative image - saying that in 2007 at least 25,000 barrels of suds wound up in aluminum cylinders. Micro brewers who are using cans said it is cheaper than bottles, it better helps retain flavor and helps their product stand out on shelves that are becoming more and more crowded with craft beers.
Dan Soboti Jr., who brews at the Gaslight Brewery and Restaurant in South Orange said that they would likely stick with glass growlers for the foreseeable future.
“We talked about it, but we decided that it wasn’t going to work for us,” he said.
Hall said that he sells between 30 and 40 boxes and growlers per week and once a cube is filled, the beer stays carbonated for 2-3 weeks. The five quart box sells for $18 and the 10 quart for $28. Each comes with a reusable plastic tap that can be screwed onto the spigot and reused by return visitors. The box itself isn’t built for more than one use, though the brewer said it’s possible to get a second round out of it. When the box is emptied, drinkers can break it down and toss it in with the recycling.
Customers to the Ship Inn, like Richard Kroth of Milford, like the box because they last longer than growlers. And with a young child at home, he’s not able to get to the pub as often as he’d like.
“It’s just really easy,” he said.
Looking forward, Hall says he hopes to add some new beers to the rotation that are “full of flavor but have a low alcohol content.”
In doing so, he hopes to bring new drinkers to the craft brew bar, and see them leave with a box tucked under their arm
Link to article.

Magic Hat and Pyramid to Merge

2008-05-06T09:30:00.001-04:00

Well, a sign of the times. Brewpub becomes micro, micro becomes regional, becomes macro, becomes mainstream.

SEATTLE & SOUTH BURLINGTON, Vt. (April 2008) - Pyramid Breweries Inc. (NASDAQ: PMID) ("Pyramid") and Magic Hat Brewing Company & Performing Arts Center, Inc. ("Magic Hat") today announced the execution of a Letter of Intent ("Letter of Intent"), which contemplates a transaction by which Magic Hat will acquire Pyramid, through an agreed all-cash tender offer and subsequent merger, at $2.75 per share of Pyramid common stock on a fully-diluted basis.The proposed transaction is subject to the negotiation and execution of a definitive merger agreement. The merger agreement will provide for a first-step tender offer for outstanding Pyramid shares by an acquisition entity wholly owned by Magic Hat, to be conditioned upon the acquisition of at least 66 2/3% of the outstanding shares of Pyramid. The tender offer, if consummated, will be followed by a merger of Magic Hat's acquisition entity with and into Pyramid. The proposed transaction is also subject to the satisfactory completion of a due diligence review by Magic Hat of the business, financial and legal affairs of Pyramid, and receipt of necessary consents and approvals of regulatory agencies and third parties.The Letter of Intent provides for the payment of a break-up fee payable by Pyramid to Magic Hat in specified circumstances, and also for the payment of Magic Hat's reasonable expenses in specified circumstances, each involving the failure to consummate the proposed transaction.Certain shareholders of Pyramid holding approximately 29% of the outstanding Pyramid common stock have, concurrently with Pyramid's execution of the Letter of Intent, entered into a Tender and Support Agreement (the "Tender Agreement") with Magic Hat, pursuant to which they have agreed to tender the shares owned by them in the Magic Hat tender offer and have granted Magic Hat an irrevocable proxy with respect to such shares. The portion of the shares subject to the Tender Agreement in excess of 19.9% of the outstanding shares of Pyramid common stock may be released from the provisions of the Tender Agreement in specified circumstances in connection with the receipt by Pyramid of unsolicited superior offers as defined in the Tender Agreement.The closing of the proposed transaction, subject to the conditions referred to above, is anticipated to occur not later than August 31, 2008.The board of directors of Pyramid has approved the transactions contemplated by the Letter of Intent."The combination of these two well established, high profile craft breweries will be very complementary given our respective brand portfolios and the geographies in which we predominantly operate. Additionally, there will be a number of important benefits for Pyramid to be part of a private company versus continuing to operate as a stand alone public entity. This consolidation makes both good strategic and financial sense and is well timed, particularly as the beer industry's competitive dynamics continue to intensify," said Pyramid CEO Scott Barnum. "The Company will continue to have offices in Seattle, its historical home, and will seek opportunities to capitalize on the enhanced assets and capabilities of the new combined entity," he added.Martin Kelly, CEO of Magic Hat said, "We have a great deal of respect for Pyramid's brand heritage, award-winning beers and its dedicated employees, and look forward to consummating this transaction, which provides both strategic and financial benefits both to Pyramid's and Magic Hat's stakeholders."Important NoticeThe tender offer for the outstanding common stock of Pyramid contemplated by the Letter of Intent has not commenced, and will only commence pursuant to the terms of a definitive merger agreement, as described above. This document is neither an offer to purchase nor solicitation of an offer to sell securities. At the time the tender offer is commenced an affiliate of Magic Hat Brewing Company & Performing Arts Center, Inc. will file a tender offer statement on Schedule TO with the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (the "SEC"). The tender offer statement (including an offer to purchase, a related letter of transmittal and other offer documents) and the solicitation/recommendation statement will contain important information that should be read carefully before any decision is made with respect to the tender offer. Those materials will be made available to Pyramid's shareholders at no expense to them. In addition, all of those materials (and all other offer documents filed with the SEC) will be available at no charge on the SEC's web site: www.sec.gov.About Pyramid Breweries Inc.Pyramid Breweries Inc. is a leading brewer of specialty, full-flavored beers produced mainly under the Pyramid and MacTarnahan's brand names. Pyramid's family of unfiltered wheat beers continue to be honored by beer drinkers and judges, earning the most craft beer medals in the last decade at the prestigious Great American Beer Festival ("GABF"). Pyramid has received a total of 34 medals at the GABF. The brewery has also received a total of eleven medals in international competition at the World Beer Cup.Pyramid owns two alehouse restaurants adjacent to its full production breweries under the Pyramid Alehouse and MacTarnahan's Taproom brand names in Berkeley, California and Portland, Oregon, respectively, and three alehouse restaurants in Walnut Creek and Sacramento, California and Seattle, Washington. For more information, visit www.PyramidBrew.com.About Magic Hat Brewing Company & Performing Arts Center, Inc.Founded in 1994, Magic Hat has become one of the largest craft brewers on the east coast, and ranks among the fastest growing companies in the category nationwide. The company has methodically expanded its reach, and today sells its beers from Maine to Georgia and as far west as Illinois. Magic Hat is known for its distinctively flavorful offerings and imaginative recipes that combine ancient brewing traditions with the miracles of modern science. Created in the company's unique brewery and Artifactory, Magic Hat's family of fermentations includes three year-round beers (#9®, Circus Boy®, and Lucky Kat®) a full line of seasonal ales, and a variety of special single-batch "Odd Notions." Magic Hat has been hailed by the appreciative palates and grateful connoisseurs everywhere who enjoy the brewer's pours more than any they've explored before. For more information, visit http://www.magichat.net. Note Regarding Forward Looking StatementsThis news release contains certain "forward looking statements" within the meaning of the Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995 (PSLRA). This statement is included for the express purpose of availing Pyramid of the protections of the safe harbor provisions of the PSLRA. The forward looking statements contained in this new release are subject to factors, risks and uncertainties that may cause actual results to differ materially from those projected. Important factors that might cause such a material difference include, but are not limited to, the inability of Pyramid and Magic Hat to negotiate and execute a definitive merger agreement; Magic Hat's possible determination not to proceed with the transaction based on its due diligence review of Pyramid's business, financial and legal affairs; a material adverse change in Pyramid's business or financial affairs; failure to obtain required regulatory approvals or third party consents; the tender of less than 66 2/3% of Pyramid's outstanding shares in the first-step tender offer described above; and similar matters. If the proposed acquisition does not close, Pyramid's stock price may significantly decrease, and Pyramid's business may be materially impacted. Readers are cautioned not to place undue reliance on these forward looking statements. Pyramid undertakes no obligation to publicly revise or update these forward looking statements to reflect events or circumstances that arise after the date of this news release, except as may be required by law.

2008-02-21T08:23:00.002-05:00

Been awhile since my last post. Still struggling with this whole Cub Scout/Boy Scout thing. Putting together (with much help) our Blue and Gold Dinner, and still trying to arrange our Pack's trip to the Battleship New Jersey.

Becoming reacquainted with an old friend.

2008-01-28T14:46:00.000-05:00

Well it was a busy weekend. Friday evening was "pit night" for Cub Scout Pack 22. We prepared all the cars for the next days races. 8:00 a.m. Saturday found me in Lenape Woods surveying a bridge with an aspiring Eagle Scout and 1:30 found me trying to officiate the actual annual ritual that is the Pinewood Derby. The derby, through the efforts of many dedicated volunteers, went off without a hitch. When the track was packed and the hall cleared I headed for home and a beer. The beer was Fuller's ESB. What a rare treat to my hop-blasted palate. A lovely balanced brew with delicate English hop notes in the nose and palate and an all-to-rare balanced taste. A nice mix of grassy hops and caramel and crystal malts. Sublime. It paired nicely with some good flicks with the kids. Akeela And the Bee and the original Jurrasic Park. --Then Return of the King Disc Two - I love the Siege of Minas Tirth and the Battle of the Pellenor Fields. Sunday found me at Scout Headquarters arranging for Ceremonial Performers at the Pack Cross-over Ceremony at the end of February.

As for the Burns Supper, Alas it was Walkers Shortbread and a wee dram of Balvenie on the Boat home... Nae Haggis - Chieftan O' the Puddin Race... thank heavens.

Ode to Haggis... Chieftan of Puddings

2008-01-25T11:15:00.000-05:00

The Chieftan of Puddings himself...

Fair fa' your honest, sonsie face,Great chieftain o' the puddin'-race! Aboon them a' ye tak yer place,Painch, tripe, or thairm:Weel are ye wordy o' a graceAs lang's my airm.

The groaning trencher there ye fill,Your hurdies like a distant hill,Your pin wad help to mend a millIn time o need, While thro your pores the dews distil Like amber bead.

His knife see rustic Labour dicht,An cut you up wi ready slicht,Trenching your gushing entrails bricht,Like onie ditch;And then, Oh what a glorious sicht, Warm-reekin, rich!

Then, horn for horn, they stretch an strive: Deil tak the hindmaist, on they drive, Till a' their weel-swall'd kytes belyve Are bent like drums; Then auld Guidman, maist like to rive, 'Bethankit' hums.

Is there that ower his French ragout,Or olio that wad staw a sow, Or fricassee wad mak her spew. Wi perfect sconner, Looks down wi' sneering, scornfu viewOn sic a dinner?

Poor devil! see him ower his trash, As feckless as a wither'd rash, His spindle shank a guid whip-lash, His nieve a nit:Thro bloody flood or field to dash,Oh how unfit!

But mark the Rustic, haggis-fed,The trembling earth resounds his tread,Clap in his wallie nieve a blade, He'll make it whissle;An legs an arms, an heads will sned, Like taps o thrissle.

Ye Pow'rs, wha mak mankind your care,And dish them out their bill o fare,Auld Scotland wants nae skinking wareThat jaups in luggies:But, if ye wish her gratefu prayer,Gie her a Haggis!

For sure fairer words were never spoken and with this as inspiration no less?

Haggis in the words of Robert Burns

2008-01-25T11:09:00.001-05:00

Address to a Haggis

Fair fa' your honest, sonsie face, Great chieftain o the puddin' race! Aboon them a' ye tak your place, Painch, tripe, or thairm: Weel are ye wordy of a grace As lang's my arm.
The groaning trencher there ye fill, Your hurdies like a distant hill, Your pin wad help to mend a mill In time o need, While thro your pores the dews distil Like amber bead.
His knife see rustic Labour dight, An cut you up wi ready slight, Trenching your gushing entrails bright, Like onie ditch; And then, O what a glorious sight, Warm - reekin, rich!
Then, horn for horn, they stretch an strive: Deil tak the hindmost, on they drive, Till a' their weel-swall'd kytes belyve Are bent like drums; The auld Guidman, maist like to rive, 'Bethankit' hums.
Is there that owre his French ragout, Or olio that wad staw a sow, Or fricassee wad mak her spew Wi perfect sconner, Looks down wi sneering, scornfu view On sic a dinner?
Poor devil! see him owre his trash, As feckless as a wither'd rash, His spindle shank a guid whip-lash, His nieve a nit: Thro bloody flood or field to dash, O how unfit!
But mark the Rustic, haggis-fed, The trembling earth resounds his tread, Clap in his walie nieve a blade. He'll make it whissle; An legs an arms, an heads will sned, Like taps o thrissle.
Ye Pow`rs, wha mak mankind your care, And dish them out their bill o fare, Auld Scotland wants nae skinking ware That jaups in luggies: But, If ye wish her gratefu prayer, Gie her a Haggis!

Meaning of unusual words: sonsie=cheerful Aboon=Above Painch=paunch thairm=guts wordy=worthy hurdies=buttocks pin=skewer dight=wipe slight=skill Trenching=Digging reekin=steaming weel-swall'd kytes=well-swollen bellies belyve=soon Guidman=Head of the household rive=burst staw=sicken sconner=disgust feckless=weak rash=rush nieve a nit=fist a nut sned=trim taps o thrissle= tops of thistle skinking=watery jaups=splashes luggies=wooden bowl with projecting handles

So are you ready for a steaming plate of sheep guts?

Waiting for Robert Burns

2008-01-23T14:41:00.000-05:00

As we approach the 25th of January Scots around the world turn to the works and wisdom of Robert Burns for inspiration. Alas, I remember him for his incomprehensible prose and his ode to Haggis (sheep offal, spices and oats stuffed into a sheep stomach steamed for hours or days). Not sure of the words anyore but it was some sort of litany of virtues about a glistening pile of steaming entrails and its inherent nobility. "Oh Haggis thy King of Puddings" is in there I think - no doubt a sharp lawyer for Anheuser Busch will be in touch with Burn's estate shortly, seeking among other things a "cease and desist order" from such confusing verse. "Your honour the public might confuse the "King of Puddings" moniker as an endorsement by our product, the "King of Beers!" Just imagine that pairing. I'll have the chilled Bud and the steaming Haggis - the pyloric valve if you have it?

This is real food. The sort of cookery one might expect from half-frozen men in kilts. Men with red noses and cheeks. Men who are feeling no pain after toasting every one from the King to the person that polished their Claymore. Manly toasts made with firey Scots Whisky not to mention downing a pint or two of "Wee heavy" (strong scots ale) . Men who are numb from being subjected to the equivalent of Now 27 played on bagpipes (an instrument with an air bladder also made from sheep entrails I might add).

While I too feel some knship to Burns, perhaps a more muted celebration will be in order - a dram of Balvenie on ferry home with the usual suspects perhaps? Memo to self- lay on some Scots ales for the weekend as well.

The Beer Hunter

2008-01-17T11:05:00.000-05:00

Sooo... last night I stayed up too late sipping a bottle of Abbaye Des Rocs Grand Cru and watching two episodes of Michael Jackson's "The Beer Hunter." This was a series that appeared on PBS in the eighties. The episodes I watched were "The Burgundies of Belgium" and "Their Daily Bread." A bit dated attire wise but informative and still current content wise. Well maybe some of the breweries have disappeared or merged but discussions of style and qualities were spot on.

The Grand Cru was sublime. Poured out a nice hazy chestnut with a tightly bubbled tan head. Lacing with every sip, just one issue..."translucent floaties" lots of suspended proteins in this one. Did not affect the taste but made each sip a sensory adventure. Speaking of taste there was some sweet and nutty malt and a delicate hop presence. Hints of raisins and dates. Delicious. Memo to self buy more.

Well back to the salt mines. I have some docs to review and a Klondike Derby sled team to coordinate.

New Beginnings

2008-01-16T11:15:00.000-05:00

Boy it has been awhile since I last posted. So many beers, so many air miles and far too few things that have truly excited my taste buds. The stand-outs are there:

Southern Tier Hop-Sun - A quaffable summer session brew if there ever was one.
Brooklyn 2006 Chocolate Stout - Coffee, toffee, and malted milk - Incredible!
Brooklyn 2007 Chocolate Stout - Coffee, Dark Cocoa a sharp contrast to the 06 that has mllowed with age
Dale's Pale Ale and its "Big Brother" Gordon - hopalicious - citrus, substantial malt backbone in a can.

Avoid:

Avery's "The Kaiser" an Uber-Doppelbock - Boy talk about alcohol in the nose. No subtle hints here but a full throttle nose hair singed burn. Tough to smell anything else ... I expect that in bourbons - not beer.

Well this is a short-post but I will claw my way back to a prolific 2008. Hats off to fellow bloggers AHMuse and Gorky Rises .

2006-06-27T13:15:00.000-04:00

A Myth Confirmed – Ballantine Burton Ale

One of the many great things about my gig as the “Atlantic Highlands Beer Man” is the feedback that my column often generates. Some is amusing, some is encouraging and some is downright fascinating. This past weekend’s experience clearly falls in the latter category and that is why I have chosen to share it with you.

Some weeks ago I received an e-mail from a reader who was previously employed by the Ballantine Brewery in Newark, New Jersey. He offered to mail me a label that he had saved for over forty years from a bottle of Ballantine Burton Ale. I emailed him back with my contact info and waited. This past Saturday morning I received a telephone call, it seems the Gentleman (who has asked to remain anonymous) informed me that he actually lives on the next block and would like to drop by with the label. I said “sure I’ll see you in a few minutes”. My guest arrived bearing the label, some typed background information on the Burton Ale and some memorabilia from his days as an employee at the Newark Brewery. We chatted for quite some time about beer and brewing and were it not for a planned get-together with some of my high school pals (Wayne Hills 1978) we would likely have chatted for hours.

By way of background, the Ballantine Brewery, was originally built in 1840, and was a Newark landmark. By 1950 the brand was the third most popular brand in the nation and the only Ale brewer in the top 10. Only Schlitz and Budweiser were bigger. Ballantine Ale was also the official beer of the New York Yankees. Yankee home runs were referred to as Ballantine Blasts by the announcers. Alas, consolidation in the industry and competition took their toll and by 1960 the brand had dropped to number 6 in the nation. To keep up changes were made to the recipe and the brewery was modernized and expanded but the brewer continued to lose money. In 1965 the Badenhausen Family sold the brewery to a group of investors that had no prior brewing experience. In three short years, despite looting the pension fund, the investors were forced to sell the brand and its distribution network to Falstaff. Shortly thereafter Ballantine brewing filed for bankruptcy and disappeared. Over the intervening years the brand has changed hands many times and is now being brewed by Pabst brewing. It is here where I leave-off and the story of Ballantine Burton ale Begins:

“I was a quality control laboratory employee at the Peter Ballantine Brewery from 1953 to
1966. The brewery closed, I believe in the fall of 1970. Some of this information is
anecdotal. The Burton ale was a long time product and by the time I started my
employment all kinds of legends about it and it’s origins at Ballantine had developed.

Anecdote: Burton Ale was brewed to be used for what was called, “Stock Ale”. In the taverns before Repeal there was on the bar a small barrel (about a gallon) with a spigot. It contained heavy, flat, ale that could be added, for a small fee of course, to a glass of draught beer as a flavor enhancer. For this purpose the master brewer from the Burton on Trent brewery in the, UK was brought to Newark to brew up he ale according to the English formula and brew house conditions. The market for Stock Ale did not materialize and the ale was put up in small storage or aging tanks in the brewery.

Fact: Not being a sales product it became a specialty ale that was bottled once per year in the late fall for distribution as a Christmas present to people f note. The ale was bottled with a special Yule label, packed in a specially lithographed case and distributed to the lucky ones on the list,

The bottling of the ale was a very carefully controlled operation. Samples would be taken from the aging tanks and evaluated. Sometimes all the ale for the run would come from one tank or several tanks would be blended together to obtain the proper flavor and mouth feel for this product. The tanks holding the ale were sealed by locking the zwickles (sampling faucet). Each tank had its own lock on both middle and bottom zwickels and the hose valve connection on the very bottom had a special screw cap which was also locked. A set of keys for the tanks was kept in the laboratory and the brewery supervisor’s office. When the ale was bottled there were supervisory personnel at any point where product might be “lost.” The same held true for the bottles and all the production was strictly accounted for and kept under lock an key in security areas before shipping. A few cases were also locked away for reference t the next years run.

The storage tanks were laboratory tested every 6 months for lactic acid and gravity. At Ballantine the gravity was measured by degrees Balling using hydrometers. The test determined if a secondary fermentation was occurring in the tank, a sure sign of wild yeast doing its dirty work. The lactic acid test was to see if bacteria were infecting the tank and they would produce lactic acid as a by-product. The brew master and technical director would also evaluate each tank for appearance, flavor and aroma.

It can now be told that when the brewers would set up a holiday buffet out in the brewery the price of admission for their laboratory friends was very often a quart sample jar of Burton Ale “zwickled’ from one of the tanks.

When the brewery went out of business, I have it on good authority that the Burton Ale on hand was inventoried by BATF for tax purposes and the bottom valves opened to run the contents to the sewer.

A sad end to a unique product…”
There is always some debate as to whether a brew tastes like it used to. Not being much of a drinker at the age of 5 (when the Badenhausen’s sold the brand) I have no recollection of the “Old Ballantine” but I still enjoy a “New Ballantine” every so often. My experience this past weekend has inspired me to pick up a six pack of Ballantine and add in a shot or two of some well aged “Stock Ale:” It should be interesting to taste what I may have missed by not being on the Badenhausen’s “A list” back in 1963.

Losing your way in Atlantic Highlands

2006-06-08T15:16:00.000-04:00

It is a rainy day here in the Atlantic Highlands. Getting out of bed was a chore. The steady drumbeat of rain on the roof made the decision to go for a walk/run a less than thrilling prospect. Un-daunted I laced up the running shoes, pulled on my ugly, old Government Issue, Gore-Tex Parka and off I went. The air was heavy and wet, the birds were silent and the gloomy gray skies made it difficult to work up anything resembling a vigorous pace. Up Grand and Up East Washington I went. As my mood began to lift I said to myself “Today, I am going to do something different.” The sign for Lenape Woods beckoned and the chance for a bit of trail running seemed to be a good prospect, so into the woods I went. I had some fun though it was not what I had planned. Sure, I got the chance to explore the woods on a rainy day and scramble down a few trails, but somehow I lost my way and ended up bushwhacking into the parking lot of the Thousand Oaks complex. From there it was but a short jog out onto Route 36 and back down Lake to Sears Landing and East Washington and thence Home. I got in my workout, “explored” the east side of town and made it home with enough time to enjoy a hot shower and a walk through town. The work on the pavers in front of city hall is progressing nicely, several commercial buildings are getting facelifts and with the new ice cream parlor our little downtown is looking better all the time.
Speaking of cold and damp highlands in general makes me think of Scotch Ale. What is in a name? Political-correctness aside, the Scots have always been the butt of jokes about being miserly and penurious. For example “It is said that all Scots have a sense of humor - because it is a free gift!” When it comes to Scotch Ales, however, nothing could be further from the truth. A Scotch Ale is typically a rich and generously complex brew that can lift the gloom of a damp rainy evening and satisfy the yearning for a malty tipple that is not so alcoholic that a second glass on a week-day is ill advised. Scottish ales come in different varieties; light, heavy and export. Before England and Scotland went to the New Pence (decimal based currency) these ales were categorized by the tax levy based on the beers original gravity: 60 shilling (light) 70 shilling (heavy) and 80 Shilling to 120 Shilling (export) There were versions of 120 Shilling or more that were often called a “Wee Heavy”.
Scottish Ales traditionally go through a longer boil in the kettle resulting in a varied degree of caramelization. This also results in a deep copper to brown color and a higher level of un-fermentable sugars. The Scotch Ale will have a rich mouth feel as well as a malty flavor and aroma (chocolate, toffee, molasses and some malted milk-like flavors). Hopping levels are generally low, though some light floral or herbal notes are generally present but the caramelized malts are the backbone. Peaty/Smoky characteristics are also common especially in the heavier versions where some peat smoked malt may be used to offset some of the sweeter malt notes.

Scotch Ales are not that hard to find locally. Some examples of this style that are usually available in our area include: St. Andrew’s Ale (4.60% A.B.V. - light) Belhaven Scottish Ale (5.2% A.B.V. - heavy) McEwan’s Scotch Ale( 8.0% A.B.V. - export), Skullsplitter (8.5% A.B.V. – “Wee Heavy”) and Old Chub Scottish Style Ale (8.0% A.B.V. -“Wee Heavy”). Sam Adam’s has a respectable “Scotch Ale” that has some nice peaty notes but it is only available seasonally as part of a sampler twelve pack. Long Trail “Hibernator” is a lighter Scotch Style Ale that is tasty and a nice introduction to the style. If you are really lucky you can latch on to a six pack of Three Floyd’s “Robert the Bruce.” I have seen this at Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank on and off over the last year or so.
As Voltaire said: “We look to Scotland for all our ideas of civilization.” On a rainy day at the Bay Shore there is little more civilized than reading Robert Burns aloud, sipping a strong malty brew and finding, thus again, one’s way in the world.

A change of pace...

2006-05-31T09:59:00.000-04:00

This morning I did something different. I got up at my usual hour, but instead of suiting up and heading to work I put on some shorts and took a nice stroll up the Mount, down to the Harbor and then back up First Ave. The air was heavy; a thick fog had descended on the Bay. The tympanic sounds of song birds were supported by the deep Bass tone of the ferry’s fog horn. A nice change of pace … memo to self- do this more often…

Also a nice change of a pace, the Hefeweizen is a hazy unfiltered brew that is made with a healthy dose of un-malted wheat and special strains of top-fermenting yeast. As a summer quencher it is a refreshing treat! This weekend I made it a point to chill and enjoy three different “hefe’s.” The first hefe I sampled was Franziskaner from Spaten-Franziskaner- Brau, Munich, Germany. This brew is very much a mainstream beer. It pours a hazy, bright yellow with a generous, tightly-knit head. The much anticipated aromas of fruit and spice are somewhat muted but are definitely there - predominately ripe bananas and earthy cloves as well as a pleasant yeast aroma. The taste is slightly tart with the some bread notes and a floral hop bite. In a word – refreshing. This brew is commonplace in our area. It is available on tap at Briody’s in Rumson and available in bottles in better local stores.

More difficult to find and in my opinion worth seeking out is Julius Echter Hefeweizen from Wurzbuger Hofbrau. This is a more complex and strongly flavored brew. The aroma is richly fruity, the palate is sharp and slightly tart and the appearance is a darker yellow by comparison with the Franzikaner.

Brewed closer to home, Vermont based Magic Hat’s Circus Boy is a very accessible American interpretation of the style. It is available in six-packs and as part of their “Joe’s Garage Sampler.”

Some notes on serving Hefe’s: In general this beer style has a tendency to generate an overabundant head. This can be tamed by rinsing your glass with cold water just prior to pouring and by carefully pouring it down the side until a small amount (about two inches) remains in the bottle. At this point stop pouring and swirl the bottle a few times to dislodge the yeasty sediment and then pour the remainder of the beer into your glass. Be sure to use a tall wide-mouthed glass if you can locate one. This will best showcase this great style’s exotic aroma and sunny appearance. Many places insist on serving a lemon wedge with a hefe. I recommend you pass on this, but the curious can ask their server for the lemon on the side and try it both ways.

Welcome to summer!

Comings and Goings

2006-05-25T13:43:00.001-04:00

This morning, while walking to the marina, I noticed that Atlantic Bagel Company was doing a brisk early morning trade. The clientele looked to be a mix of local fisherman and commuters grabbing something on the go. First Ave. is not usually that busy at 5:45 a.m. but it is always good to see a local business doing well.

Speaking of locals; it is with much sadness that I report the announced closing of the Heavyweight Brewery in Ocean Township. Tom Baker and Peggy Zwerver (a Husband and Wife team) are very active in the local craft beer scene. They are moving on to better things. While Heavyweight has been growing and making money, Tom and Peggy want to open a brew-pub where they can brew some of their own brews and also serve some of the other local craft beers as well. They have planned three more batches at their existing facility to exhaust their existing grain supply and then they will be moving on… While I wish them all the best, I am going to miss their fine brews (especially their Barley Wine and Baltic Porter) and I will be stocking up on all of them. If you are a fan I suggest you do likewise. I am sure there will be a transition party at the brewery. Look for notice here or on the Heavyweight Brewing web-page.

Another industry icon, Rolling Rock, formerly an InBev brand, has been acquired by Anheuser Busch. The acquisition includes the Rolling Rock trademarks and the recipes, but not the Old Latrobe Brewery. InBev will be selling the 1.3m barrel state-of-the art brewery to another purchaser as yet undetermined. Some are speculating that Boston Brewing Company (Sam Adam’s) and Sierra Nevada are likely candidates. There are certainly other possibilities including other U.S. Regional brewers or a brewer that is currently an import looking to bring their product to the North American market in fresher condition. I will keep you posted as I learn more.

I hope see some of you at the Atlantic Highlands PBA Ball. This year the proceeds from this charity event will benefit Patrolman Stephen Doherty to offset medical expenses. Michael Short and his team at Hunterdon Brewing have graciously donated a craft beer basket that will be available for bidding in the Silent Auction. My family and I have also donated a basket of tri-state craft brews and accessories to enhance your Bay Shore summer. It will be a great time for sure and it is another wonderful chance to socialize with old friends, make some new ones and help out a local hero too. Feel free to say Hello if you see me there.

On Monday, May 29, 2006, we will be honoring all those that have risked and sacrificed so much in pursuit of the liberty that we sometimes take for granted. This year commit to yourself that you will march in or attend a local parade, fly your flag proudly, register and vote at every opportunity and thank those that have served for their efforts. In fact each time you exercise your right to vote you are in effect thanking those that served.

To all who have served and continue to serve this great country, in peace or in war, thank you.

Until next week.

Craft Beer in Cans (Part 2)

2006-05-25T13:43:00.000-04:00

The Bay Shore is glorious this morning; clear blue skies, rain-washed fresh air, gulls wheeling in aerial waltzes. This natural beauty always reminds me why we moved here in the first instance. What a perfect day, shame I had to spoil it by gong to work. Alas, good beer is not free, so in order to support my habit it’s off to work I must go…

It seems that a new good beer is arriving in the local stores each week this spring. Most of it is packaged in the traditional brown glass bottles. This is great, but it does limit the discriminating drinker’s options when attending venues where glass is just not appropriate. Weep and gnash your teeth no more -just in time for beach, pool and boating season we have some great new choices in unbreakable packaging. While you could always pick up inexpensive national brands in cans, as well as some of the mainstream imports, craft brews in cans have been virtually non-existent. This changed last fall with the arrival on our shores of The Oskar Blues Brewery’s “Dale’s Pale Ale” and “Old Chub” (a delightfully malty Scotch Style Ale). Now in cans and new in the local stores are two brews from Sly Fox Brewing of Royersford, Pennsylvania, “Phoenix Pale Ale” and “Pikeland Pils.”

I have taken it upon myself to sample these two examples of the brewer’s art and can say without question that these beers are both first rate. You do not have to trust me; just ask Rich Young my neighbor. Rich is often the victim of my boring monologues on beer and this past weekend was no exception. Rich is a Dale’s Pale Ale fanatic so I knew he would bite when I offered up the competition. In a side by side tasting Rich concluded that while the Phoenix Pale Ale was indeed spectacular, Dale’s was still his preferred beer. Both brews are generously hopped with West Coast Hops (lots of citrus and pine flavor), though we both found the Dale’s to have a more aggressive profile. Personally I liked the strong malt presence in the Phoenix and will definitely stock up on this brew. The preceding notwithstanding, Dale’s is a great restorative glass after a grueling day of home maintenance.

For Dan Kilduff, and, those that prefer a subtler and less aggressive brews, the Pikeland Pils, a German-Style Pilsner, may be just the ticket. The Pikeland compares favorably with Troeg’s “Sunshine Pils” and Victory’s “Prima Pils” but in a convenient unbreakable package…a blind taste test may follow. Initial comments-pours a clear sunshine yellow with a generous pillow of white head. Aroma of wet grass, green leaves and faint, bready-malts. Taste is, initially, a touch sweet but a firm but not overpowering hop presence is there to balance things out. Dan this is a great beer in a can that won’t break if you drop it while cleaning that beautiful pool of yours.

The Sly Fox brews are packaged in 12 pack corrugated cardboard cartons and available at Spirits Unlimited on Newman Springs Road in Red Bank. The Oskar Blues products are available in our town at the Copper Basket on First Avenue.

Now the only dilemma facing Atlantic Highlands is how we get good craft beer served at the Shore Casino…sigh.

Until next time…

Spring is in the air

2006-05-25T13:41:00.000-04:00

Spring has finally come to our little slice of Paradise. The Robins are back and feasting on the worms in my backyard, the sweet sound of birdsong greets me as I walk to catch the ferry and the need for a top-coat has thankfully lapsed…Now all we need is more spring rain. The hundred or so little seedlings that Cub Scout Pack 22 planted last week need a good soak.

With the spring season comes a changing of the guard as respects the seasonal selections available at the local stores. Out with the Double Bocks and Barley Wines! Be gone all the malty and decadent Winter Warmers and Hello to all the bright Crisp Pilsners, White Ales and Mai-Bocks. The longer days and warmer temperatures have got this beer drinker yearning for something a little lighter. I yearn to pour a glass of liquid sunshine to match the delicate spring greens and other light fare that appeal to the palate this time of year. Presently I am enjoying Troeg’s Sunshine Pils, a fresh fruity take on this style. It pours a bright sunshine yellow, with a generous white head, a pleasing, fresh hop aroma and a balanced palate. This Pilsner style beer is definitely a nice refreshing glass that I readily pair with a spring salad and some fresh grilled fare.

Also new in the local stores, from the good folks at Smuttynose Brewing, Smuttynose’s Summer Weizen. In the brewer’s own words it is “ Light, tasty & full of character, … brewed with a combination of domestic and continental wheat and barley malts, lightly hopped & fermented with a Belgian wit yeast,” Sounds like it’s worth a try to me. The folks at Smuttynose take great pride in their work and it shows in their brews. Their “Big Beer Series” is a line-up of well crafted and innovative interpretations of traditional (and non-traditional) brews.

I am also looking forward to picking up some of Victory Brewing Company’s Prima Pils. This brew is available year-round - but I like to enjoy Pilsners when it is warm enough to appreciate a well chilled brew while outside. On the seasonal side, look sharp for Victory’s Whirlwind Wit. This brew is a refreshing interpretation of the Belgian Wit style. Spiced with citrus and coriander this brew pours a hazy sunshine yellow with a white creamy head and abundant carbonation. Pair this brew with some spicy Barbecue, Sichuan or Thai food.

The Patio is finished and we can’t wait to plant those Jersey Tomatoes and Jalapenos…

Til next time.

News and Brews

2006-05-25T13:40:00.000-04:00

It is a delightful day here on the Bay Shore. This morning’s walk to the 6 O’clock ferry was very refreshing. It apparently rained a little last night and the air had that refreshingly moist quality that follows such events. The past month at work and various family events have fully occupied my time - making a weekly column a bit of a challenge to undertake. Alas, a break from work at least is in order so let me share a few items that have been tumbling around my head these past weeks.

I have been following a few exciting trends in the American brewing scene. In particular a Wall Street Journal column on Anheuser Busch noted that the brewer is looking to craft brewed and organic products to boost its flagging sales. It seems big beer has come to realize that more and more Americans want beers that actually have some taste. In fact, the have actually started to boost the hop levels in their mainstream products as well. For more info on this interesting turn click on the following link: Anheuser-Busch Lets Ohio And New England Beer Drinkers Pick Hometown Specialty Brew . Sadly, the Big Apple and environs have not been tapped for any experimental products, but the reports that I have read online about the tasting sessions have been very intriguing. Of course this news is not without its share of controversy. Many craft beer aficionados see this as another attempt by the Great Satan to drive the craft brewers out of business. Personally, I think it is very encouraging that an American Icon is reaching out to satisfy the taste yearnings of a broader audience. The converts to these brews will no doubt include many dedicated AB product drinkers who are very brand loyal and will try these brews because they are from the folks that bring you “Bud.” Most Craft brew fans will continue to support the craft brews and imports that they already know and enjoy.

Variety is the spice of life. On a given day I have around forty to fifty different brews on hand. Some I keep cold and some I cellar for future consumption. This allows me to match a brew with my mood, a meal or a guest. This also takes up a fair bit of shelf space and has driven me to purchase more singles and fewer sixes and twelve-packs. I cannot recall the last time I purchased a case of anything. In this regard, Bob the Beer Guy, the Beer Manager of Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank has arranged a selection of brews that you can purchase as a mixed six-pack. The variety of beers available changes frequently so it is a great way to mix and match and experiment with new brews and new styles. Thanks Bob!

Stone Beers have finally arrived in New Jersey thanks to Mike Short and Hunterdon Brewing! Get thee to Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank and Middletown and stock up on Arrogant Bastard, Stone Ruination IPA and Stone IPA. I understand that other varieties will follow shortly. I was fortunate enough to score a Jeroboam of Oaked Arrogant Bastard to christen our new patio with.

Lastly, this week, in the Dining and Wine section of The New York Times, Eric Azimov has written an excellent article on Belgian Lambics. Eric is a great writer and has written several articles on different beer varieties. Eric also has a blog called The Pour where he muses about all things spirituous and gives you the chance to spout off as well.

Welcome to spring, I hope to see you around town!

The Counter-Pilsner (R)evolution?

2006-03-29T08:06:00.000-05:00

It is a bright and sunny day in the Financial District and interesting things are brewing in the world of beer…

The headlines in the business sections today included news that Anheuser-Busch, the world’s largest brewer, is engaged in talks with several mid-sized breweries in India. Per capita the Indian’s drink less than one liter of beer per person per year. On the other hand, Indian beer sales are increasing on an average of 7% -10% per year. In the United States mainstream beer consumption has been generally on the decline, though the one bright spot on this gloomy outlook is that American craft brewers are steadily increasing their sales. What will A-B do to meet analyst’s growth expectations? Domestically the good folks that bring you Budweiser have sought out different avenues to enhance their revenue stream. Recent efforts have included expanded seasonal offerings such as Bare Knuckle Stout and Jack’s Pumpkin Ale, craft brews like the excellent Brewmaster’s Private Reserve and even an Organic Beer called “Wild Hop” available in some upscale grocery markets. In another direction they have inked distribution deals for imports such as Tiger and Grolsch. A_B has also approached some of the larger regional craft brewers such as Old Dominion and Red Hook for the rights to distribute their brews. And of course they advertise and advertise and advertise….

Wherever you look in our town: The neon adorned windows of First Avenue; The billboards on Route 36; plastered on the sides of Distributor’s trucks; emblazoned on summertime shore blimps; flapping on beach buzzing plane banners; and embroidered onto ball caps and t-shirts, the advertisements for Anheuser-Busch’s beer are there. The in-store posters show incredibly fit and beautiful men and women drinking responsibly in poses and clothes that highlight their svelte physiques. They seem to say “you too can be young and beautiful if you buy and drink our pale golden elixir”. Are you running to out to get some? Let me step out of your way, I have chosen the road less traveled, though my fellow travelers are apparently increasing in numbers at a healthy rate.

Enter Dogfish Head; a craft brewer from the First State, their tag line is “off-centered beers for off-centered people”. Sam Calgione, the founder of the brewery, has been featured in the Wall Street Journal, has produced numerous award winning beers, and has written a book on entering into the brewing business. His latest impish creation will be coming to a store near you.
For years people seeking better taste have derided the big brewer’s products by comparing the aforesaid brews with the by-products generated by mammalian fluid consumption – piss. I have seen t-shirts that show a man, his back to the viewer, urinating into a large vat with the caption “The creation of light beer” Well Sam Calgione, ever irreverent, has taken the assault to the next level. In my inbox Saturday I received an announcement from the brewer himself. He is introducing into the Dogfish Head stable of beers a product that will take back the good name of the Pilsner. Sam notes in his announcement that most of the larger brewers claim that their product is a “Pilsner Style” beer and frequently include a reference to that style on their labels. He takes them to task and points out in some detail the falsity of their claims:
“In the middle of the nineteenth century, in a land that is now the Czech Republic, the Pilsner beer style was born. The soft local water, the bottom-fermenting Bavarian Yeast, the local hops and the lightly toasted barley made it beloved the world over.
Unfortunately, the industrial breweries here in America have spent the better part of a century diluting and bastardizing this beer style to its hardly recognizable current state of existence. Over three quarters of the beer made and consumed in America is sold as Pilsner. But it doesn't have the alcohol content or the crisp, bracing, hop character of the old world standard. In fact, it doesn’t even have the same ingredients.”
He also describes the cheap ingredients used, the folly that led them to market their product on the basis bland and ice cold is better and the multi-billion dollar marketing budget that comes with these generally uninspiring products.
To counter this abuse of the Pilsner name he is brewing up a whopper of a brew. Using 100% Pilsner Barley and a healthy dose of European Hops and weighing in at 9% ABV Sam is presenting us a with a beer that he asserts is the secret to selling something that he wants people to buy and drink:
“INSTEAD OF MAKING IT INOFFENSIVE MAKE IT TASTE GOOD”
Sounds reasonable enough right? The name Sam has chosen for this new product? Why “Golden Shower” of course. A name that is funny on so many levels that it is guaranteed to generate more than a few chuckles from the younger crowd.
Sam promises no advertising, no marketing and has even shared the recipe with a Czech brewery for free, so long as they also agree not to advertise as well. Can a brewer succeed without advertising? Ask Sam, and what will he tell you? :
“Yup. Dogfish Head Craft Brewery has averaged over 50% revenue growth for the last three years and we are on the Inc. 500 list of the fastest growing private companies in America. We've achieved all of this even though our beers are among the strongest in alcohol and most expensive in the world. We do this by paying more attention to the quality of our beer then we do about creating an image or buying mind and market-share. We spend about 2% of our annual revenue on marketing or advertising any of our beers or any aspect of our company and yet we continue to grow stronger every day. And we are not alone. In 2005 overall beer sales in America grew less than one percent. Wine sales and Liquor sales were up around 4%. But craft beer sales were up 9% this past year; making ours the fastest growing adult beverage segment in the country. There are over 1400 craft breweries in America that contributed to this growth. Hardly any of us have sizable advertising campaigns to speak of. But then again we don't make our beer with cheaper ingredients like corn and rice either. What we do have is a growing, grassroots army of beer enthusiasts by our sides who have chosen quality over hype and are helping us spread the word. We wouldn't waste our Golden Shower on the kind of beer drinker who decides what to drink based on which brewery spends the most on advertising and the least on ingredients, we brewed it for the rest of us. “
As we near my 46th Birthday I hope my birthday gifts include a Golden Shower or three, which would be the bottled kind that is, wiseacre.

Cheers.

Beer for Toads

2006-03-21T10:07:00.000-05:00

Catchy Title this week, eh? In my efforts to keep you, the beer drinking cognoscenti of our little town on the bay, fully aware of global beer affairs I bring you this juicy tidbit from the land down under.
Boys and Girls the topic for the week is Cane Toads. Cane toads are a species of toad that is native to Central America. These huge toads (up to 5 lbs.) were imported to various parts of the globe, including Hawaii, Florida, the Caribbean and Australia as a means of controlling the pesky Sugar Cane Beetle. It was reasoned that these bug vacuuming behemoths would allow farmers to control these beetles without the use of pesticides.
Buzzzzzz - Wrong answer. Thanks for playing.
Sugar Cane Beetles reside in the upper portion of the sugarcane…far from the reach of these monstrous toads. To make matters worse, Cane toads (bufo marinus) excrete toxic fluids from glands on their backs and are thus toxic to predators, even in the tadpole stages, so they are breeding unchecked and driving out the native amphibian populations wherever they take hold. Alas, the good folks at Coopers Brewery in Australia have a solution. Beer for toads. Here is an extract from a recent article in the Northern Territory News:
“The RSPCA, Coopers Brewery and the Cavenagh Hotel have teamed up in the name of animal welfare and the result is that toads can be turned into beer.
In a move designed to turn seasoned Top End beer drinkers into lean, mean, toad-catching machines, the three Darwin organisations have got together to set up a toad-for-beer exchange.
Anyone over the age of 18 who captures a toad and delivers it alive to the Darwin RSPCA qualifies for a glass of icy cold Coopers beer at the Cavenagh Hotel.
``Everyone who takes a cane toad to the RSPCA to be disposed of humanely gets a voucher for a free pot of Coopers ale at the Cav,'' Coopers Brewery's NT sales executive Sean Gould said. “
So I gather they want the toads dead, - but from a kinder, gentler sort of death than say the one that a well placed Louisville Slugger or steel belted radial tire might administer…”
``No coupons for squashed toads,'' Mr Wilkinson said. “
He was keen to make it clear he wasn't starting a roadkill collection. ``Healthy, live, no squashed cane toads,'' he said.
And Mr Simmonds agreed, saying the deal was ``fresh toads for fresh beer''.
``The idea is to get people catching toads and taking them for humane disposal”
Now here is the line that might offend some people:
“Mr. Simmonds said no one would get a beer for taking a toad to the pub. “
I am Shocked! Shocked I tell you! What kind of blatant Amphibiphobia is this? If Neville Longbottom from the Harry Potter books has a toad, and he can bring it to Hogwarts why can’t I bring my pet toxic toad to the Harborside to share a pint of Bass Ale or a nice jar of Guinness? Sure you can kill them humanely, but don’t you dare try to share a pint with a toad before he’s off to meet his maker! Even the condemned gets a last meal. Humane treatment indeed - Hippocrates.
Outrage aside, this has me thinking. I wonder if Joe Reynolds and the Atlantic Highland’s Environmental Commission can arrange a reward system for humanely disposing of locally unwanted, invasive, excess Grey Squirrels? Anyone bringing a live, un-squashed, outwardly content, socially well adjusted, Grey Squirrel (like the ones in residence in my garage eaves) to the Monmouth County ASPCA for “retirement” gets a coupon for a nice Brown Ale? Make it two, one to savor in Squirrel-free bliss and one to toast the cute little grey fellow before he’s off to join the choir invisible? Sounds reasonable to me…
By the way Coopers is a great little brewery and they make some excellent if hard to find brews.
Cheers.

In Praise of Porters

2006-03-16T08:58:00.000-05:00

In Praise of Porters
It is a sunny morning in the Big Apple. Unbelievably they are predicting snow for tomorrow. The air is crisp and the sky is blue with sheets Cirrus Clouds layered over a few scattered Cumulus clouds, the whole skittering rapidly to the East. Sunlight sparkles on the surface of the East River and WNYC is announcing 36 Degrees in Central Park. Come on spring!

Porter is a style that few understand. I am guessing that much of this confusion arises in part because of the diversity of Porter types and partly because of the confusion that many have with the darker brews in general.
Porter is said to have been popular with manual laborers, in particular baggage and freight handlers of 18th Century London, hence the name. Contemporary accounts state that “Porter” was a blend of three different styles: old ale (frequently stale or soured), a new ale (a sweet brown ale) and a weak one or mild ale. Brewers experimented with various combinations of blending and staleness. The resulting brews were also commonly known as "Entire Butt" or "Three Threads" and had taste that was by all accounts refreshing and generally pleasing. Washington and Jefferson were said to be Porter Drinkers.

One way to look at a traditional Porter is to consider an analogy Scots Whisky. A Porter was not a Single Malt but rather a blended Scots Whisky. The blended product was an attempt at market to the public’s taste. A smoky Talisker is not for everyone, a blended Dewar’s however is likely to be appreciated even by the casual drinker. Blending three ales afforded the brewer the opportunity to sell more of the less popular “older” and “newer” brews. The resulting blends were vat aged for several months, sometimes over a year. Some of these vats held in excess of 500,000 gallons. Failure of a vat could and did have catastrophic consequences in the crowded streets of London.

The Porters of the late 1700’s were strong, perhaps 7% alcohol by volume. Some brewers made even stronger, more robust versions to be shipped to Northern Europe and Czarist Russia. These stronger brews were commonly referred to as “Baltic Porters”. While we cannot be absolutely certain as to the taste of these brews, we can speculate. In general, the style’s dark brown color masked the cloudiness that probably plagued the soured “older” ales. The Blending of a Sour Old Ale and a Sweet Young Ale likely masked brewing flaws that were common before sterilization and pasteurization. The addition of an “Old Ale” also lent an acidic/sour flavor, which made it more refreshing. Consider the refreshing sharp sourness of the Flemish Wild Ales or even Homemade Lemonade. I would imagine that on a hot day such a tart and acidic palate would be quite popular.

Historical records note that before he started brewing his popular “Stouts”, Sir Arthur Guinness' brewed Porter. In fact the Guinness product line included a Porter up until the mid 1970’s.

Even with the mass-production of Porter, some breweries could not keep up with the demand for the unique blending of old and new ales, since a portion of the blend could only be created by a long period of maturation. In response to economic pressure some brewers resorted to molasses and burnt sugar to artificially color their ales. Others apparently introduced “additives” to enhance the brews intoxicating effects (opium, hemp, strychnine, and tobacco for example). Not surprisingly, some porter drinkers fell ill or even died as a result of these experiments.

Following the introduction of the Pale Ale and Lager Styles, with their greater clarity and their well hopped flavor profiles, Porters became a breweries second or third product, and in many cases were dropped altogether. Eventually the style dropped off the radar and was only available in a few niche markets.
Today, Porter has made something of a comeback. Most craft brewers include Stout and Porter in their product lines. Long gone, however, is the “Blended Porter.” Modern-day Porters are typically brewed using a pale malt base with the addition of black malt, crystal, chocolate or smoked brown malt. With a nod to tradition, some brewers will age their beers after adding a shot of bacteria to create an “authentic” taste. Many porters also spend a little time in wood barrels to impart an oaky, smoky flavor profile.

Caught your interest? Ready to take the plunge? There are many readily available modern-day Porters for you to enjoy. To explore the American Porter Style I would start with Anchor’s Brewing’s “Anchor Porter”, Smuttynose’s “Robust Porter”, or Sierra Nevada’s “Porter”. For a “Baltic” Style Porter consider Heavyweight’s “Perkuno’s Hammer”, Sinebrychoff’s “Porter” or Flying Dog’s “Gonzo Porter.” For a contrast consider a British Style Porter such as Fuller’s “London Porter”, Samuel Smith’s “Taddy Porter” and the flavorful and rich (not to mention somewhat pricey) Salopian Brewery’s “Entire Butt.”

Happy Saint Patrick’s Day folks!

Beer from the Magic Kingdom

2006-03-09T11:24:00.000-05:00

This past week my duties called me to the Spring Meeting of the National Association of Insurance Commissioners at Disney World. Your State insurance regulators are an affable bunch of hardworking folks that are charged with protecting the consumers of insurance products. Given the diversity of insurance products and services, they have their work cut out for them. That however is another story. In between the flurry of meetings and panel discussions (not to mention dinners and receptions) I found the time, with my faithful beer companion Albert, to walk out onto the Disney Boardwalk to observe the Big River Brewery. The Big River Brewery is part of a chain of Microbreweries owned by Gordon Biersch. My family and I have fond memories of the Big River Brewery in Chattanooga Tennessee. Excellent food, kid friendly and they pour a decent pint…not to mention the fact that it is right across the street from the Tennessee Aquarium, a neat place that you must see if you have the occasion to be in North-West Georgia or Eastern Tennessee. The Disney locale lacks the dark wood ambience and charm of the Tennessee venue but it does offer the only fresh brewed pint in the entire Magic Kingdom. Surely Walt himself would have preferred a fresh brewed pint, brewed within his realm, to a mass-marketed product imported from elsewhere. The menu was diverse and reasonably priced by Disney standards. The wait staff and bar tenders were attentive and friendly. Our bar tender Gary was obviously proud of the brewery and its products and went to great lengths to describe each of the brews offered and the flavor profile of each. If you happen to be at Disney World and in need a pint and a meal to sustain you, give this place a shot.

Sometimes I can go to extremes to obtain a new beer to try. This weekend was no exception. Just because it’s Florida doesn’t mean there isn’t any good beer to be found, right? Right. In my case the source of my present elation is a non-descript liquor store called “Big C”. On University Ave in Winter Park (part of Greater Orlando), just a short trip from the rental car drop-off, this diamond in the rough is strategically located next to a Winn Dixie and a short walk to Keller’s Barbecue…purveyors of a deliciously smoky pork sandwich. The store interior is bright and airy. It boasts a great section of Belgians not to mention many other European Brews. They also have the superlative craft brews of Great Divide and some more pedestrian Colorado brews including Tommy knocker. The little voice in the back of my head said “how the heck are you going to get this stuff home?” The beer lover in me bludgeoned the pesky voice into submission and purchased two bombers of Great Divide (Double IPA and Oak Aged Stout)Two Magnums from Meantime, UK (One Porter, One IPA), a 750 ml. of Flying Dog Brewery’s “Wild Dog” (Weizen Bock) and two 750’s from Val Dieu (Brune and Blonde). I also scored six new beer glasses for the collection.

The bounty safely secured in the car I pondered the logistics of the pending operation. How was I going to get this stuff home without winding up in Federal Custody? At this point, the little voice was alternating “I told you So” with “Sir, please come with me we have some questions regarding your baggage.” Surely the bottles will clink together and break in transit. If not they will definitely burst in the un-pressurized baggage compartment. Concluding that the latter was not likely I still had to ponder the former. Like a bolt from the blue the solution sprung forth from my troubled mind. I needed Bubble-wrap! Like an Oasis in the desert, Office Max loomed on my horizon. I quickly found the bubble-wrap and the packing tape I needed to safeguard my goods. Happy, I resumed my drive back to Disney World.

My simple solution was however not without its flaws, as I pondered the upcoming packing event; I realized that I needed something to cut the tape and bubble-wrap. Eureka! There was Lowe’s on the right, what better place to locate a fine piece of cutlery to cut wrap and tape. I purchased a nice little Gerber lock-back and back to the Magic Kingdom I went. About the time I reached the park entrance I recalled that the knife was packaged in one of those annoying clam-shell packages that are hermetically sealed and immune to assault by well honed incisors. Packaging so cunningly designed that it is guaranteed to injure or maim the unwary and ill-equipped. The only cutting implement I possessed was the Homeland Security Approved Nail Clipper…It may take some time I thought, but it will do the trick…I hoped. In the event it did work, barely, but it did take quite some time. I carefully wrapped and arranged my bottles in my rolling carry-on bag. I had packed an extra duffle to carry my coat home and that provided a safe and soft place to carry the six glasses I purchased as well as the obligatory Disney sweatshirts and t-shirts for the rest of the Clan.

Several days later I found myself on my way to the Airport. Apprehensive of my predicament to say the least. Weighing in at just less than 50 pounds (phew!), my roller bag was way too weighty for carrying on. I checked it and hoped for the best. No request from the baggage examiners to please come with them. No pre-flight announcement to report to the Security Desk or meet an Airline Representative. I boarded my flight thinking “So far so good”. Upon arrival in Newark, it seemed to take an eternity for the bags to arrive, and when they did my satchel was dead last. I imagined it arriving in a beer soaked plastic tray with a nasty letters from Homeland Security and from the Airline. Alas, in the end it was all a non-event. My worst fears never materialized and all my goodies arrived safe and sound.

You can be sure that when my Lenten Fast is concluded I will have some world class brews to enjoy.

Cheers…and thank heavens for bubble wrap!

Murder, Mayhem and Brown Ale

2006-03-01T09:09:00.000-05:00

I am not a person that watches a great deal of deal of Television. This probably accounts for my utter lack of knowledge of current cultural references when it comes to clothing, music and what-not. Nor am I a person you want to talk to about spectator sports like Baseball or Hockey (like watching paint dry to me). History and useless trivia are more my style. “My Dad is a Square” is what my kids say! Heck Yeah I say and darn proud of it too! I do however have a weakness for English Television, in particular the shows that PBS featured on Mystery!” Whether it is “Prime Suspect” with Helen Mirren, Derek Jacoby as “Cadfael” or the late John Thaw as “Inspector Morse”, I am hooked and will not lift my eyes from the tube until the show has run its course. It is the latter that inspired me to first try, what is now one of my favorite styles of beer, English Brown Ale. Whilst reviewing the facts with his assistant “Lewis” in a Cambridge Pub the good Inspector would gingerly sip his “Jar” of Brown Ale. As the brown liquid receded leaving a delicate lace-like pattern on the glass, our hero would relive the victims last moments and ponder the identity of the perpetrator, all this against a backdrop of his catastrophic personal life and the bucolic English Countryside. Ahh but I digress.

Brown Ale is a style that is contemplative by nature. Similar in many respects to the English Mild Ales, Brown Ales tend to be maltier and sweeter on the palate, with a fuller body. Color can range from reddish-brown to dark brown. Some versions will have a fruitier aroma, while others tend to be drier with nutty characters. All Browns seem to have a low hop aroma and little hop bitterness. To grasp this brew’s subtleties it must be sipped, contemplated and savored. “Newcastle Brown” in the clear bottle is a brew you may have seen in the stores, but this is, in my opinion, is a watered down version of a true brown ale, a brown ale for beginners if you will. Newcastle is a pale shadow of the treat that this style can truly be. For better examples of “English Browns,” consider trying Samuel Smith’s “Nut Brown Ale”, Smuttynose’s “Old Brown Dog” or Wolaver’s “Organic Brown Ale”. More full bodied richly colored than Newcastle these are brews that the good Inspector could sip with pride and determination while reminding Lewis not to be hasty in his presumptions or to avoid the fizzy Australian Lagers (“They don't spell Australian beer with four Xs out of ignorance”). Interestingly, the Boston Brewing Company, the good folks that bring you Sam Adams, have begun bottling a Brown Ale as part of their Seasonal Line-up. The early reviews that I have read are mostly favorable; I think a trip to Red Bank is in order, I need to acquire some … er … um … research materials for a future column. Yes, that’s it Research Material! In the spirit of Tax Season I wonder if I can deduct the cost of said research materials used for this column?

There is also a style recognized as American Brown Ale which traces some it’s roots to the English Version but may feature American Hops at higher levels or a higher level of alcohol. Dogfish Head’s “Indian Brown” and Brooklyn Brewery’s Brown both fall into this category.

I’ll leave you with a bit of humorous dialogue from the show:

Morse : Isn't it your round?

Lewis : Do you think another one's a good idea?

Morse : Think? That's why I want it - to think. I don't drink for pleasure!

Beer for Lent

2006-03-01T09:01:00.000-05:00

Today is Ash Wednesday, on this day many Christians around the world will attend Church and be blessed with ashes in recognition of the start of the Lenten Season. “Lent” is a Teutonic word that originally referred to the onset of the “Spring” season and the lengthening of the days that this season brings. Now the word “Lent” is generally used to describe the forty day period of sacrifice, fasting and purification that many Christians undertake in the practice of their faith. It is also closely intertwined with the brewing of particularly tasty beer style, that style being the “Doppelbock.” (Okay, you knew this was coming. This is after all a beer column and not a column devoted to the practice of your chosen faith… unless of course you worship beer.)

As part of the strict Lenten practice, the Monks, who were also the brewers of beer throughout most of Europe, were required to fast from sunrise through sunset. The sole concession to this strict fasting was the intake of fluids. In the early days “fluids” meant beer or wine as the water was frequently too fouled to safely drink. To prepare for this period the monks took to brewing hearty brews that used extra grain to increase the nutritional value of the brew and thus the style “Doppelbock” was born.

The exemplar and gold standard for the style is Paulaner “Salvator” now available year-round thanks to modern brewing techniques. In recognition of the primacy of Salvator, traditional brewers have appended the suffix “ator” to their versions of the brew. For example: Spaten : “Optimator”, Ayinger “Celebrator” Troegs “Troegenator” Augustiner “Maximator” and etc. Stylistically Doppelbock is a lager. This is likely related to the cooler weather during the period leading up to Lent. As brewing was accomplished without the aid of refrigeration “lager” styles were not feasible during the warmer months and Ale yeasts were not active enough to complete the fermentation during the cooler weather. Additionally, as mentioned above, the style was brewed using extra grain, requiring a longer fermentation period, and producing richer and maltier brews and consequently resulting in a higher alcohol content (6.5% to 9% or more).

What should you expect in a typical Doppelbock? Well, the brew will be darker in color, ranging from an oxidized copper through to a deep mahogany brown. The aroma will be toasted or caramelized grain, with some floral hop notes. When tasting, expect some chocolate, roasted coffee and toasted grain accompanied by a toasted malt sweetness that is rounded out with some floral and spicy hop notes. A rich and heady brew, the Doppelbock will sustain you as contemplate the deep philosophical issues raised by the latest episode of “Desperate Housewives.”

In the better stocked stores you can find most of the aforementioned brews. In our own Bayshore Plaza Vingo you may even find,the often overlooked but very tasty, Sam Adam’s “Double Bock.” While you’re fasting don’t overlook the Weizen bocks such as “Aventinus”. Be warned however that on an empty stomach I would avoid the “Eisbocks” such as Kulmbacher’s EKU 28 Kulminator however.

As for me, I have chosen to undertake a Lenten sacrifice in the form of an abstention from alcohol. This should not affect my column and I will continue to contribute to the Herald, though I may be forced to comment on beers that I have purchased and seen in stores and not personally tried. Prior to undertaking my abstention I enjoyed two tasty brews that will sustain me for the challenges to come. First I enjoyed a vinous and roasty A. Le. Coq Imperial Extra Double Stout brewed by AS Tartu in Estonia, followed by a rich and malty St. Bernardus Abt 12 - Quadrupel brewed by Browerij St. Bernardus – Watou NV. Cheers.

Bootlegging

2006-02-15T16:25:00.000-05:00

"Fizzy Yellow Beer is for Wussies" So reads the signature glass for Stone Brewing Company’s Arrogant Bastard Ale. The somewhat cheeky advertising campaign employed by Stone is mostly about fun and serves to down play the quality and dedication to the brewer’s art that is apparent from the first sip of one of this brewer’s products. I have yet to see Stone’s beers for sale here in the Garden State, but I have found them all in Chinatown.

In the tradition of the bootleggers of old, I have clandestinely imported them to our little paradise on the Raritan Bay. That bucolic enclave of Victorian charm, the place we all call home, our own little Mayberry on the Bay … a town that once was a popular haven for Bootleggers … Atlantic Highlands.

My fall from grace began last Tuesday. Surreptitiously, under the guise of a healthy lunchtime walk, I exited the office onto Maiden Lane thence to Water Street. Continuing North on Water, under the Brooklyn Bridge, past One Police Plaza, toward Mott Street and the darkened heart of Chinatown. Weaving my way through the crowds and slipping past the herbal remedies and fresh sardines I continued north. My round eyes and trench coat marking me as an outsider…but not a tourist. Across a sea of humanity I strode. Just past the Lighting District via Bowery; I sprinted across Delancey Street. On a seedy side street in the shadow of the Williamsburg Bridge I met my contact. The venue was small, hidden amongst stainless steel fabricators and restaurant supply houses, my quarry hid in plain sight.

The entrance was forbidding, a steel roll up door - its perimeter protected by empty kegs - no doubt positioned to deter deliverymen from blocking the driveway. On my right, cold cases filled with all manner of beverages, some alcoholic, some otherwise. On my left, a panel of bullet proof glass that separated me from the cashier. The cashier who eyed me warily as I strode inside, her eyes betrayed no warning of what was to come. I didn’t see it coming, I was blindsided. As my eyes adjusted to the dim interior, I stood thunderstruck. A wall of Belgian imports and American Craft Brews confronted me. Here in this place I thought “how could it be?” Like Indiana Jones I proceeded further inside, then stood there, basking in the glow of hundreds of rare and tasty brews. The thousands of single bottles reflecting pinpricks of fluorescent glare that overwhelmed my senses. This was my idea of a thousand points of light. Vintage Lambics stood cheek by jowl with Baltic Porters. Rauchbier made conversation with Eisbock and Prize Old Ale. “Incredible” I thought, but the best was yet to come.

It was a few moments before I saw them, the … brews of Stone. The Leering Gargoyle proclaimed that I was “not worthy”, but I knew I was. And thus emboldened I finally fell, and fell hard. I grabbed three 22 ounce bottles and after tendering my payment I hastily journeyed back to the Financial District. I walked under the very noses of the occupants of One Police Plaza, the illicit fruits of my labor concealed in a plain brown wrapper.

At 5:20 P.M., after a nervous afternoon, I donned my coat and proceeded to Pier 11. My illicit cargo now concealed within my briefcase beneath the National Law Journal and other trade papers that, if given a chance, could put anyone to sleep in moments.

The ferry arrived and having dutifully, if somewhat nervously, tendered my ticket I took up a seat near the stern…trying at all times to look calm, nonchalant and inconspicuous. I am still not really sure just when I crossed the state line with my contraband and in doing so perfected my crime but somehow the authorities failed to accost me as I made my way down the dock to lose myself in the crowd of commuters heading for home. The angry glare of the Harbor Security Neon seemed to mock me as I strode up First Avenue.

Safely at home, as I removed the contraband from under the false bottom in my brief case I taunted each bottle “I am worthy, I am so damn worthy …”

Beer My Valentine

2006-02-09T10:40:00.000-05:00

It’s a bright sunny day in the Big Apple. Three hours at the desk under my belt and it suddenly occurs to me that I owe you all a blog…yesterday! Yikes! Think , think, think…isn’t Valentines Day coming? Of course it is you dolt. Sounds like there might be room for a little on the subject of beer in that holiday, a nice change of pace from racy undergarments that are itchy (and, to be honest, rarely if ever intended for the recipient so much as the giver) or the over priced bobbles that are currently referred to as “Bling”?

Well the origin of Valentines Day is up for debate. Some say it commemorates one of three Roman Martyrs of that name and others say that it was merely the co-opting of a pagan fertility ritual by the Church of Rome. I am not taking sides here, but I will add, that while the Italians make fairly pedestrian beer (ducks as Moretti fans hurl bottles at monitor) The glorious pagans of Northern Europe still make some of the best beers in the world and they have been doing so on a consistent basis since before there was any debate on this topic. If I have to take sides I am all for fertility and good beer.

Chocolates are a very popular gift on this holiday. Consider pairing some rich chocolate with a good beer. Here is where Rich and the good folks at Lawes Environmental will run to the keyboard and e-mail me. I expect a message or two telling me that I am nuts and cannot possibly be serious. But, I am serious, try it you will like it. I am not alone in this idea, as mind numbing as it may seem. A reader in Kansas City wrote me to suggest pairing a rich chocolate dessert with a Dry Irish Stout such as Guinness, Beamish, Dogfish Head Chicory Stout or the Kansas City local, Boulevard Dry Stout. Capital choices all. He extolled the rich coffee and espresso notes in these brews that were heightened by the sweet and rich chocolate. Sound a little like Starbucks Liqueur?

Here’s another anecdote for you. While at a Super Bowl party a hosted by a neighbor who is also a Chef and something of a wine aficionado, I shared a bottle of 2003 North Coast Old Stock Ale (yes I did say 2003). One taste and the Chef went to the kitchen and presented me with a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup to accompany the brew. He felt that the beer in question, a very rich old ale, (11% a.b.v.) with notes of toasted malt and cocoa paired nicely with sweet milk chocolate and peanut butter.

So what to serve with that Valentines day feast. In lieu of champagne before dinner consider a nice Fruit Lambic such as Lindemann’s. Pair the King crab Claws and Filet Mignon with a bracingly crisp Pale Ale or a delicate Pilsner and for the dessert…see above.

Trust me, get her a sixer of something nice and she will love you forever. Well, on second thought, as a rule most women I know don’t really care for beer, so go for the “Bling” lose the racy lingerie. As for the beer, treat yourself to something special. It will take some of the sting out of the bill you got from the local jeweler for that fleeting moment of adoration. “Honey it’s wonderful, its just what I wanted, oh and remember tomorrow is trash-day… don’t forget to empty the one in the upstairs bath…”
Happy Valentines Day.

Cellaring Beer?

2006-02-01T08:19:00.000-05:00

Five O’clock in the morning is an unreasonable time to rise five days a week. Today, Tuesday, January 31, 2006, the grimness of the hour is exacerbated by the wind blowing in off the bay and the persistent cold rain it is delivering to our little bay shore community. A comfortable ride on the Sea Streak Wall Street does nothing to lift the gloom, nor does a cup of home brewed coffee. I know I owe you all another installment and I am still at a loss as to what to write about. I re-read the Ale Street News and no inspiration comes to me. It’s a gray and raw day in lower Manhattan. Wall Street at 6:35 a.m. is a dark and forbidding canyon. The line of the caffeine starved extends out the door of Starbucks; the only establishment open on my route to the office.

As usual, I am the first person on my floor. I turn on the lights, shrug off my trench coat, hang it on the back of my office door and attack the e-mail that arrived over-night. Nothing from Tokyo or London … good. No emergency projects … good. There is that issue in Miami and three meetings scheduled for today, 11:00, 12:30 lunch meeting and the 4:30… not too bad. Pay dirt!
The Dining and Wine section of the New York Times has an article by Eric Asimov on Barley Wines that I somehow missed. (It is dated 1/25/06 if you are interested… you can get it online - free subscription required). The muse strikes. Perhaps a paragraph or two on cellaring beer and we are good till next week.

Cellaring beer? What are you talking about Ed? Beer is best when fresh right? Yes generally that it is true, but there are certain beers that possess unique qualities that permit you to lay them down for extended periods with an eye toward improving them. One style that is a prime candidate for cellaring is the aforementioned Barley Wine. The higher alcohol and hopping levels give this style the fortitude to withstand the rigors of time. The sharp spiciness of the hops will soften and the caramel and toffee notes that come from the huge amount of grain used may become more vinous or port-like. I often buy extra bottles of this seasonal specialty just to set aside for future sampling. In the Times article it is noted that one of the brews sampled was Thomas Hardy’s Ale, both a 2004 vintage and a 1992 (Gasp! A 14 year old beer!). The difference between the vintages is striking. Read the article for more details. It is well worth the trouble to register. There have been past articles in the Times on other beers, including IPAs and Saisons that are also a great read.

What other beers can you Cellar? As a general rule the stronger beer styles such as Doppelbock and Eisbock also the hoppier styles such as Imperial Stout and Double Imperial Pale Ale can be laid down. Likewise, many of the bottle conditioned Belgian beers will benefit from a few years of aging.

How do you cellar a beer? Like wine, beer must be kept in a cool dark place at a constant temperature. A basement closet away from the furnace is a prime candidate. For those with the space, wine chillers can be purchased at most appliance stores for under $200. A temperature range of 50-55 degrees seems to be the ideal temperature for most strong ales; lagers will require slightly cooler temperatures. For longer term storage brewers and experts alike agree that beers should be stored upright not on their sides.

I have only scratched the surface of this topic, consider doing some additional research before cellaring any beers. Often the brewer will make cellaring suggestions right on the packaging.

Poor Richard’s Ale

2006-01-17T09:44:00.000-05:00

"Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy”

This quote of unknown provenance is often attributed to Ben Franklin. While he may or may not have actually uttered these exact words, contemporary accounts support the notion that Benjamin Franklin was a man who enjoyed a pint now and again. Sources indicate he had a particular fondness for ales that were stronger and fuller bodied. We know that the first beers brewed in North America were Ales; the first Lagers would not arrive on our shores until the 1840’s. We also know that the cost and limited availability of quality Malted Barley makes it almost certain that adjuncts such as Corn and Molasses were used to round out the grain bill. As for hops, the scarcity and cost of imported hops make it likely, that to be authentic, the beer should be mildly hopped, perhaps flavored with fruit, or spices such as cloves, nutmeg or cinnamon. There is also some evidence that brewers used nettles or spruce to offset the otherwise cloying sweetness of the malt and adjunct sugars of the day. While sharing a common lineage, the beers of Mr. Franklin’s time were much different from the beers of today.

This month, more than 100 brew pubs around the country will celebrate the 300th anniversary of Benjamin Franklin's birth. Many of them will follow a recipe for Poor Richard's Ale that emulates a beer - the ever loquacious Ben Franklin might have enjoyed after debating the wording of a certain Declaration that ultimately found its way to London. The rest is history.

Local Brewer, Gretchen Schmidhausler, of Basil T's in Red Bank is among the brewers that chose to commemorate this icon of American history by brewing her interpretation of "Poor Richards Ale". There was a decent article in the January 13th Asbury Park Press that is both interesting and informative. Googling "Poor Richard's Ale" will lead you to some of the other brewers that are brewing this traditional ale. The recipe that many of these brewers are using is based upon the research of another Brewer named Tony Simmons.

On Wednesday January 18th I ventured out to Basil T's in Red Bank to test the fruits of Ms. Schmidhausler's labor. To aid me in my historical task I recruited two friends, Mike and Ulf. I can fairly state that we were all pleasantly surprised by the drinkability of this brew. Off the cuff I'd say that had the ales of the time been this tasty and refined we might still be part of the Commonwealth. The beer poured out a very dark chestnut brown with a creamy tan head that faded to a pancake and left delightful clumps of lacing sticking to the sides of the glass. The aroma of this beer is spicy, smoky and earthy with a lingering sweetness in the back. The molasses and malt are clearly in evidence as are the hops. The taste is balanced - the sweet malt and corn finding a nice spicy counterpoint in the leafy hop and smoky molasses tastes. Not the slick, cloyingly sweet brew that I anticipated at all. Rather, it is a full bodied and balanced brew that is worth taking the trip to Red Bank to enjoy. I think this is a fine way to commemorate Mr. Franklin and the other signers of the Declaration of the Independence. But, you’d better hurry because this limited edition brew will only be on tap for the next couple of weeks.

So Many Choices ...

2006-01-09T12:51:00.000-05:00

There was a time when there were not many convenient choices when it came to beer. There was the Anheuser Busch family of adjunct lagers... Bud, Busch, Micelob... There was Miller, The Champagne of Beers, an adjunct lager in a snazzy clear bottle, Schmidt's, Schlitz, Pabst, Piels and Colt 45(Remember the Shark advert and that catchy whistled theme?)... Yup, more adjunct lagers. Then came light beer, woo hoo another adjunct lager, albeit a light one, and there was even generic beer in a black and white can ... yes a generic adjunct lager (best enjoyed with generic high or low tar smokes, which no doubt gave you generic ailments.) There was also Billy Beer ... remember that one? Can Y'all say "presidential adjunct? Oh and and there was Miller's version of Lowenbrau an adjunct lager in a green bottle for the big shots (Yet another catchy theme). There was also Meisterbrau and Carling's Black Label if you were on a budget and needed a really cheap adjunct lager. Then there were the Canadian adjunct lagers - Labatts, Molson and Moosehead. The pickings were indeed slim, unless you liked adjunct lagers in which case you were in cereal grain heaven. For those special times when Champale wouldn't do, there were also some imported lagers, the usual suspects: Becks, Heineken and Fosters. There was a lone hold-out that brewed the only widely available domestic "Ale" that I can recall - Ballantine. Some fortunate folks had access to local or regional beers like Henry Weinhard's, Rolling Rock, Yuengling or the holy grail of Adjuncts ... Rocky Mountain Brewed Coors. (Tales of trunk loads of this "rare" brew being smuggled from Colorado to the forbidden territory East of the Mississipi used to be commonplace). Alas, not all was rice and corn in the United States, some local brewers had an all-malt product or had an ale in their line-up but they were relatively unknown and of limited availability.

Somewhere along the way there was a change. Brewpubs became popular, craft brewing pioneers like Fritz Maytag and (Anchor Brewing), Bert Grant and Yakima Brewing and Jim Koch and Sam Adam's/ Boston Beer Company started brewing products that appealed to peoples palates as opposed to their wallets. The tide was turning and the quality starved, advertizing driven beer market was in for a change. Fast forward 15 years and now the choices abound, perhaps the "beer tide" is in flood mode. Today when you go to a well-stocked store you may have sensory overload. To compensate for the number of products available craft brewers have employed an abundance bright colors, flashy packaging, cheeky and clever names to lure the beer buyer to load up their cart...with their product!

You have the "gonzo artwork" of Steadman selling Flying Dog's Brews...You have beers impishly named "Bad Elf", a "Seriously Bad Elf" and for the really ill mannered "Extremely Bad Elf"... For the naughty we have "Lump of Coal Christmas Stout" for the feeble minded we have "Blithering Idiot" there is "Old Horizontal" for that nightcap and there is "Arrogant Bastard" a brew that was no doubt named for some of my fellow commuters...Decisions, Decisions Decisions...In the Seventies an ad campaign for peanut butter asked the question "What's a mother to choose?" and answered it with "choosy mothers choose _ _ _ !" Well that was easy it was peanut butter but with so many different choices what beer should I try next? Sadly, many resort to buying what they already know is drinkable, if unexciting, lest they have to suffer through a sixer of a funky brew they do not like.

For those of you that are willing to take a chance the rewards are there. What should you buy? Well that depends on what you like. (short answer, long answer follows) When you buy wine or spirts you are seeking a certain flavor profile. So too with beer. As we move into 2006 resolve to buy beer not by the packaging or the advertizing but by the style and the taste. Learn about the various beer styles and read some product reviews. You can find good info on the web. For starters look at BeerAdvocate.Com and read what others have said about a beer. Read the section about the different beer styles and how to taste beer. A fat Cabernet is not the same as a spicy Syriah? Likewise a Crisp Pilsner is not at all like a Hoppy Pale Ale. Learn the styles, learn how to taste and experiment until you find your preferences. Pick beers that suit your mood...sippers, refreshers or for food pairing. Keep a variety of styles on hand to suit your mood. Lastly, do not be afraid to try a new beer every once and a while.

East Meets West

2006-01-09T10:16:00.000-05:00

Happy 2006, I hope your holidays were safe and the new year finds you in good health. Whatever your New Years resolutions may be, please leave a little room to treat yourself to some quality beers during the coming year. Speaking of quality brews, as promised, I was able to find some unwitting volunteers to sample the Anheuser Busch Brewmaster's Private Reserve with me. Whew, what a delightful treat it was indeed. It is a smooth and well balanced, all malt brew, that is a crystal clear pale straw color with a tightly knit white head that lasts for a short time. There is a healthy bit of carbonation that ensures a persitent ring of head that accents the beers appearance and adds to the mouthfeel of this slightly sweet to balanced tasting brew. There is little noticeable alcohol taste or aroma despite this beers advertized 8% strength. If you can still find it, I urge you to grab a bottle to share with your friends. Let's hope this is among the first of many good things to come from A-B.

Last week we were invited to our friends home for a post New Year's cocktail. I was treated to some superb wines and the inspiration for this column, a can of Baltika No. 9. This beer is brewed by Pivazod Baltika, St. Petersburg, the Russian Federation. A Euro Strong Lager by nomenclature this 8% brew is a slightly sweet medium bodied brew that packs a punch and blows the doors of the Northa American "Malt Liquor" competition. While not a style I prefer it is part of a "numbered" product line that starts with #0, a Non-alcoholic brew and ends with #9, being the Aleksandyr Nevsky of the line if you will ... In between there are variuos light and dark euro lagers. #4 is a quite good dark lager, #6 is a Baltic Porter and #8 is a Hefe Weizen. At $1.79 a pint bottle these are some affordable indulgences and may pair well with Borscht, Sausage, Cabbage and Pierogi's.

Moving Westward to Poland there are also some fine brews available. Elbrewery in Elbag brews Hevelius Classic (6.8%) and Kaper(9.10%)both rews crisp and tasty, and would pair nicely with the afforementioned ethnic fair. Rycerskie from Browar Namyslow is another tasty and strong euro lager crafted to ward off the chill winds blowing out of the East (not to mention warmly satisfy some thirsty Westerners needing to spend some cash).

But no discussion of the East would be complete without at least a mention of some of the rich, malty, Baltic Porters. Sinebychoff from Finland and Okocim from Poland and Zywiec from Lithuania are three readily available, moderately priced, Eastern Baltic Porters. (Should I put a plug in here for Monmouth County's own Heavyweight Brewing's "Perkuno's Hammer?" as fine a Baltic Porter as any I have tasted).

At the turning of the year the East Meets West, here in Atlantic Highlands on the Raritan Bay.

Na Zdrowie! Za vashe zdorovye!

Gift Suggestions for the Beer Lover in your Life

2005-12-14T14:05:00.000-05:00

Some suggestions to Make the beer lover in your life a happy camper ...

Beer Bucket:

Hit Basil t's and pick up a fresh growler (or two) of beer. While you're at it, why not add a brewpub T-shirt? Then, when everything is ready, arrange your gifts in a metal pail (Jaspan's Hardware) add some pint glasses and coasters and add some protective filler (polyester batting, wood shavings tissue paper, etc,). (Remember to keep the fresh beer refrigerated).

Beer Glasses:

Every beer aficanado needs a set of appropriate glassware to enjoy the various styles of beer in so stop by your local Crate & Barrel (or a similar shop) and purchase one of each of the following: flute, goblet, mug, pilsner, pint, snifter, tulip, Weizen and an oversized wine glass. Consider adding some Coasters and maybe a book on Beer.

Beer and Snack Basket:

Pair a selection of local craft beers with some quality cheeses. Include some fancy crackers, condiments, summer sauasage, dried salami, smoked oysters etc. Add a suitable glass for the beers. Consider starting with a basket from Michael's, some high end snacks and cheeses from whole foods and beer and glasses from Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank.

Homebrew Kit:

You can buy a starter kit online or at The Brewers Apprentice in Freehold.

As I explained in an earlier column making your own beer can be a real adventure. For the faint of heart, consider a gift certificate to the Brewers Apprentice where you can do all the work on their premises. This lets your aspiring brewer do much of the work, but it keeps that aroma of and inevitable spills that accompany the brewing process out of your home. Brewers Apprentice

Breweriana:

Brewery advertisement collectibles, commonly called Breweriana by the beer afficcianado, Many of the antique stores in Red Bank will have old beer bottles, beer trays, bottle openers and even posters. Some even have collections of old brewery ads from magazines, which look awesome when framed. You can also look online.

Beer of the Month Clubs:

Michael Jackson's Rare Beer Club - Rare says it all. For the beer hunter that does not travel much.

Beer Across America - This is the original “Beer of the Month Club,” a fine pick for the American craft beer lover.

Books on Beer:

Barnes and Noble have a selection of Beer Books. look in the wine and food section.

BeerAdvocate Gear:

Lastly, one of my favorite beer related sites when I am curious about a new (or old) brew. Consider Beer Advocate.Com In additon to being a great resource tey have a gift shop. Any gear that you buy helps support the running of this donations only site. They have T-Shirts, Zippered Hoodies and more.

Do America's Craft Brewers Get It?

2005-12-07T09:20:00.000-05:00

I received an interesting e-mail from the author of several books on beer and brewing in response to my last column. I want to thank the writer for his insight and for providing me with the inspiration for this week’s column. The writer’s position is that not only do the large brewing establishments not “get it” the, craft brewing industry does not quite “get it” either. On reflection, I think he raises some excellent points and I am inclined to agree with many of them. The main thrust of his argument is that the craft brewers and their fans should spend less time focusing on their criticism of the big three and their products and more time trying to expand the market share of craft beer. He provided an excellent analogy to the domestic wine industry.

As many of you will recall in the 1970’s and 80’s it was not uncommon to overhear many people ordering a carafe of “red” or “white.” Today, when a specific bottle from a wine list is not being ordered, we generally hear a varietals name such as Merlot, Burgundy, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio etc. The wine industry has educated the public such that today most of us know that there are many varieties of wine within each color grouping. How do craft brewers intend to get to the point where the discerning beer drinker knows that there is a big difference between an India Pale Ale and a Pilsner? That not all dark beers are heavy and bitter? How do craft brewers get the public to order by style and not by brand? The answer, of course, is by educating your consumers.

My two cents. As with the domestic wine industry the domestic craft brewing industry is made up of a disparate range of small to medium and large brewers. Consider the New Jersey Scene: On one end of the spectrum you have local brew-pubs like Basil T’s in Red Bank that do not bottle their beer, though you can buy a growler and take some home, you have niche type small batch brewers like Heavyweight in Ocean Township, and then there are the larger craft brewers that distribute in several states like River Horse in Lambertville and Flying Fish in Cherry Hill. What these folks all need is a common ad campaign. Much like the ad campaigns of the dairy farmers and the National Cattleman’s Beef Association. Perhaps they need to coin a snappy phrase like: “Got Milk?” or “Beef, Its Whats for Dinner.” A smart, yet down to earth advertising campaign aimed at promoting the history and culture of American brewing and the virtues of each of the different varieties of ales and lagers. Consider showcasing the pairing of craft beer and fine dining. Sure it’s tough to beat a glass of Pilsner and a slice of Pepperoni Pizza, but how about a Belgian White with a plate of Mussels? Pairing a glass of Dry Stout with a dozen oysters? The combination of Chicken Sate’ and American Pale Ale?

What are your thoughts? How would you get folks to drink better beer? How would you convince the big three that there is value in brewing a more flavorful beer?

Do America's Big Breweries Get "It"?

2005-11-30T08:45:00.000-05:00

Anyone that spends more than a few moments at a local Liquor Store will have noticed the proliferation of Craft Brewed Beers that are now available. Some are domestic, some are imported. Package styles range from the functional to the artistic and everywhere in between. Notwithstanding this development the vast majority of floor and shelf space is devoted to the American Macro Beers and Malternatives like Tequiza and Hard Lemonades... all products of the nefarious BMC (BudMillerCoors). I am always amused when a well dressed man or woman saunters into the store and lingers over the latest Californian, Austrailan or Chilean Wines before selecting the latest "hot pick", then quickly wheels over to the beer section and without pause grabs a 24 Pack of BMC and trundles off to the register thence to the Mercedes for the ride home? What are these folks thinking? Beer has as rich a heritage as wine does. There are as many if not more varieties of beer than wine and frequently beer pairs better with what is on the menu.

American brewing has a rich heritage and has been part of the backdrop for every phase of our nation's history. Washington, Adams and Jefferson were all brewers. The Immigrant brewers like Anheuser Busch started out by brewing flavorful and substantial brews. How did we get to the point we are at today? When most beer drinkers think "American Beer" is synonomous with thin, watery, fizzy, yellow beer that is sold by scantily clad ladies barely old enough to drink themselves?

But there is hope on the horizon. A faint glimmer of light is emanating from the wilds of Saint Louis, Milwaukee and Denver. Beer with flavor. Miller is touting its 1855 Celebration Lager, a macro with taste perhaps? Coors has become increasing bold with its "Winterfest" Amber Seasonal as well as it's "Blue Moon" and "Killian's" Brands. The most encouraging trend however is from no less than the Great Satan of Brewing, the megalithic Anheuser Busch. AB have always dabbled with specialty beers for example, there is Ziegenbock, available only in TX to compete with the Local specialty "Shiner Bock". There are the Michelob Specialty Lagers such as "Amberbock" and "Honey Lager" that are now widely available in bottle or draft. Lastly, in it's latest move toward flavor over quantity ... Anheuser Busch has offered up for public sale its Brewmasters Private Reserve and Michelob's Celebrate. These are clearly craft brewed products and aimed at both the craft brew drinker as well as those that shop by brand. Wheteher you care for these products or not, you have to be pleased by the current trend toward flavorful, full bodied brews over the bland "Mass Quantities" that Beldar the Conehead consumed with fried chicken embryos. At 8.5% and 10% ABV respectively these are serious brews. I have yet to try either brew but I will and I have high hopes. look for a review in a future column.

Christmas Gift sets are in the stores. Now is the time to get the beer drinkers in your life some new brews and the brewerania to match.

How To Be A Great Thanksgiving Guest

2005-11-16T12:31:00.000-05:00

The Thanksgiving Holiday is upon us, some of you will ask your hosts what to bring to supplement the repast. Will you be that boring person that shows up with a bottle of inexpensive vino? “Oh Yellowtail how lovely” … Just say no to Pinot! Those cognoscenti that have been reading this column regularly will be armed with the information you need to be that special guest that will be welcomed and remembered for that wonderful selection of beer that you arrived with!

That is the ticket lads and lassies a laundry tub sized assortment of some quality craft-brewed beer! It will liven up the festivities, tantalize the taste buds and lubricate the arid repast that is Roasted Turkey, Dressing and Mashed Potatoes. You can pique your dinner companion’s curiosity and be the hero of the day when you produce a selection of intriguing beers whilst effortlessly discussing some distinct features of each style. Add some personal anecdotes, some brewing history and you will be the life of the party. As an aside, humbly add some pointers on what the discerning taster should expect. No more boring talk of Finite Risk Transfer, Catastrophe Bonds and Eliot Spitzer. Beer shall set you free.

Here are my suggestions, by course:

Aperitif To get the digestive juices flowing, but without overwhelming the taste buds too early might I suggest a nice Pilsner? Consider these choices:

Brooklyn Lager - Brooklyn Brewing
Pennant Pilsner - Brooklyn Brewing
Victory Prima Pils – Victory Brewing

Appetizers/Snacks Consider a Pale Ale here, the spicy hop characteristic of this style pairs nicely with salads, cheeses, fruits, nuts and that new traditional favorite - Spicy chicken wings. These are some picks:

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale – Sierra Nevada Brewing
Dales Pale Ale – Oskar Blues Brewing
Dogfish Head 60 Minute Pale Ale - Dogfish Head Brewery

Main Course
Consider strong Belgian-style ales. Their higher alcohol percentage pairs nicely with the seasonal comfort food:

Allagash Grand Cru – Allagash Brewing
Lunacy - Heavyweight Brewing
Rare Vos – Brewery Ommegang

Dessert

Rich Stouts and Porters pair nicely with Pecan Pie, Shoo Fly Pie, Sweet Potato Pie and other sweets including chocolate. My dessert picks are:

Black Chocolate Stout –Brooklyn Brewing
Storm King Stout – Victory Brewing
Perkuno’s Hammer (Baltic Porter) – Heavyweight Brewing
Digestive (after dinner)

It’s now time to relax, sit back and let that meal fully digest. No doubt you are well and fully bloated at this point, time to sip coffee and take a TUMS?? No way! Get off your butt and grab something smooth, rich and numbing. Reach for the Strong Old Ales and Barleywine Ales. A rich, complex, malty and alcoholic beer will settle the stomach, rectify the humors and is ideally suited for sipping. Some excellent choices include:

Monster Barleywine – Brooklyn Brewing
Bigfoot Barley Wine Style Ale – Sierra Nevada Brewing
Old Horizontal – Victory Brewing
Holidale – Berkshire Brewing Company

Happy Thanksgiving!

Winter Warmers

2005-11-10T22:10:00.000-05:00

The chill winds of fall are blowing along the Bay Shore, the geese are flying south in formation, the Stripers are back in the bay, the election rhetoric has reached a fever pitch and its time to for a warmer wardrobe. For beer aficionados this can only mean one thing – It is time to break out the maltier, higher gravity beers to ward off the chill bay shore winds. No need to abandon the front porch, just break out the barn jacket and a snifter of the strong brews mentioned below:

Going from lightest to darkest my Fall- Winter lineup is as follows:

Wheat Wine

A newer style just coming into it’s own can also be described as a strong wheat ale. Wheat Wines contain a large portion of wheat malts, often upwards of 50%. The wheat provides a softer mouth feel. The Wheat Wines that I have sampled have been a hazy pale yellow, with a rocky head, with a floral nose and a dry-hop finish. Smutty Nose’s Wheat Wine is available on local shelves in a 22 ounce bottle. At 11% Alcohol by volume this is a perfect size for sharing.

Tripel

This Belgian Style takes its name from part of the brewing process, in which the brewers use up to three times the amount of barley malt than a standard “Single Ale”. Traditionally, Tripels are clear bright yellow or gold in color. The head tends to be big, dense and creamy. Aroma and flavor is complex, spicy, with fruity ale yeast evident, along with a sweet finish. The style’s sweetness comes from both the malts used and the higher alcohol. Tripels tend to be heavily hopped to offset the alcohol aroma and the sweet malt palate. The lighter body comes from the use of Belgian candy sugar in the fermentation tank, which not only lightens the body, but also adds alcoholic aroma and flavors. Small amounts of spices are sometimes added as well.

Some North East craft breweries include a Tripel in their regular line-up including Allagash (Maine) and Weyerbacher (Pennsylvania). Chimay (White Label) is a fine imported example that is available in most good outlets.

A Similar Style to the Triple is a Belgian Strong Pale Ale. Heavyweight Brewing in Ocean Township makes a brew called “Lunacy “at nearly 8% alcohol by volume it will warm you and sustain you during the long nights of the waning year. Broueri Moortgat’s “Duvel” falls under this style.

Barley Wine

Despite its name, a Barley Wine is very much a beer, albeit a very strong and often intense beer. It is among the strongest of the beer styles. Fruity, rich and sometimes sweet, sometimes dry, a Barley Wine is always alcoholic. A brew of this strength and complexity can be a challenge to the uninitiated palate. Expect colors ranging from amber to deep brown with an aroma ranging from dark dried fruits (dates, figs currants), to spicy and floral hops. Body is typically thick, alcohol will definitely be perceived in the nose and palate, and flavors can range from fruity and sweet to highly hopped.

English varieties are quite different from the American efforts, the American versions are more intensely hopped, usually with West Coast hops (Cascades, Willamette, etc.). English versions tend to be more balanced, with slightly lower alcohol content, though this is not always the case.

Most Barley Wines can be cellared for years and will mellow and improve with age. Consider trying “Monster” by Brooklyn Brewing, “Old Horizontal” (affectionately known as “Old Ho”) by Victory Brewing or Sierra Nevada’s “Bigfoot”. Buy a sixer of each and enjoy one bottle now and cellar the rest in a cool dry space.

Wee Heavy (Scotch Ale)

In 19th century Scotland, these brews would also be known as a “160 Shilling”, a name derived from the now obsolete shilling currency. Tax was levied on the Original Gravity of the Brew, The higher the Original Gravity the higher the tax. Scotch Ales traditionally go through a long boil in the kettle for a caramelization of the wort. This produces a deep copper to brown in colored brew and subtle caramel and toffee undertones. Compared to 60 and 90 Shilling Scottish Ales, a Wee Heavy will be sweeter and fuller-bodied, and of course higher in alcohol, with a much more pronounced caramel and roasted malt flavor. To add to the complexity and offset some of the sweetness a portion of the malts used may be smoked over turf (peat) as are the malts used in Scots Whisky. For an added flourish you can serve this brew in a “Thistle” shaped glass. This glass style will pay homage to the Scottish National Flower as well as concentrate the rich aroma of this fine restorative elixir.

I recommend “Robert the Bruce” (9% ABV) by Three Floyd’s Brewing as a fine domestic example of this style. Sam Adam’s makes a decent Scotch Ale, though at 5.4% ABV it is hardly a Wee Heavy. On the import side Orkney Brewing’s “Skull Splitter” (8.5% ABV) will take the bite out of the fiercest Northeast Wind off the Raritan Bay. (The scary looking Viking on the Label is all the warning you need mate.)

Doppelbock

Stylistically speaking Double Bock or Doppelbock (also Weizenbock) are huge beers with enough malt packed in them to consider them a meal in its self. Generally these beers have a full-bodied malty profile with a creamy tan head and darker coloration than “single” bocks with a much higher level of alcohol as well. They range in color from dark amber to nearly black. Dark versions may have slight chocolate or roasted characters. For more information you can read my earlier column on this style. ( Ahhh Bock ). For two excellent examples try Sam Adams Double Bock or Paulaner’s Salvator.

Imperial Stout

Created by English brewers back in the 1800’s to win over the Russian Czar, this is the king of stouts, boasting high alcohol by volume and plenty of malty character. An Imperial Stout unlike its Nitrogen Carbonated cousins has a low to moderate level of carbonation with huge roasted, chocolate and burnt malt flavors. An Imperial Stout will have a palate with hints of rich, dark fruit and alcohol quite evident. Hop character varies from balanced to aggressive. This style inspired the Baltic Porters of Sweden and Lithuania.

Enjoy these beers with care.

SOUR BEER? ITS A GOOD THING

2005-11-10T22:09:00.000-05:00

As we wind our way across the seasons and begin our transition to the comfort foods and Maltier Beers of Fall I thought I’d take a step back and talk about a unique beer style that is traditionally a summer style. This brew is available for your enjoyment year-round.

The style in question is Berliner Weisse which is a top-fermented, bottle conditioned wheat beer made with both traditional warm-fermenting yeasts and lactobacillus culture. It has a rapidly vanishing head and a hazy, pale golden straw-colored appearance. The taste is refreshing, tart, sour and acidic, with a lemony sharpness and little hop bitterness in the finish.

Berliner Weiss is traditionally served in wide bulbous stemmed glasses. Visitors to Berlin will often order one as a "Berliner Weisse mit Schuss (literally with a shot): Himbeere" or "Berliner Weisse mit Schuss: Waldmeister". These are sweet syrups that are added to make the sourness more palatable. They have the pleasant visual effect of changing the brews color as well. Himbeere is sweet raspberry syrup (bright red) and Waldmeister is sweetened essence of woodruff (lurid green). I actually enjoy the Berliner Weisse on its own, but I did try adding some Grenadine Syrup to see what sweet syrups would do to the flavor profile. The taste remained sour but the sweet fruit syrup gave it a flavor profile reminiscent of a sour ball candy. Not an unpleasant taste at all, though not something I would seek out very often.

The most common brand of Berliner Weisse available in this country is Berliner Kindl Weisse. Despite having only 2.5% Alcohol by Volume this beer is extremely flavorful and somewhat pricey. $14.99 for a six pack at Whole Foods. I have also seen it for a buck or two less at Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank, though last time I looked there was a health layer of dust on the packaging which gave me pause.

New in the local stores Wiedenmayer “Jersey Lager”. If you like a maltier Oktoberfest Beer this one is a must try. Pair it with some Chili and Saltines.

The Breweries of Vermont Part Three

2005-09-07T12:23:00.000-04:00

Vermont is called the Green Mountain State for a good reason. The verdant panorama of the Mountains that span the state is the backdrop to everything. We were comfortably settled in my wife's aunt's "camp" on Lake Champlain with it's glorious and panoramic views of the Champlain Isles and the Adirondacks beyond them. Echelons of clouds marched in a steady stream across the powder blue, northern skies. The clear waters of the lake were refreshing and had more than enough yellow perch and small-mouthed bass to keep our kids glued to the lakefront. We must have a good dozen pictures of the "trophies" that my little anglers caught (and released) on a combination of lures and live-bait. In the evenings, the setting sun and the giggles of happy kids paired nicely with the beers of Magic Hat.

Magic Hat is a Burlington Institution. They sponsor events in and around the Burlington area including Mardi Gras. Their web site is quirky, artful and sometimes frustrating . Their brewery, though somewhat non-descript on the outside is anything but typical on the inside. Oh sure they have the typical brewery fixtures: stainless steel tanks, pipes and bottling equipment - its the tasting area and gift shop that must be experienced.

You walk into the visitors entrance and instead of a brighlty lit welcoming dispay area you are enfolded into darkness. Dark painted walls, dark - loud heavy metal music, dimly lit corrugated steel panels and bins full of shirts and other brewery logo items (Spencer Gifts?). At the far end of the darkend room is the tasting and growler filling area. It consists of a dark colored bar with multiple taps, dark colored lounge furniture and is decorated with artsy promotional posters that evoke the era of psychedelia. Not the typical brewery at all.

The style used for labelling and packaging of their beer runs the gamut from the Stalinist Inspired "Mother Lager" to the Heinleinesque "H.I.P.A." Anything goes it seems. One might say that this is just typical Vermont individuality (coming out with guns blazing). But this is all window dressing that starkly contrasts with their bright and flavorful brews. My wife and I sampled several at the source and pronounced them all tasty and worthy of purchase.

The first up was the Mother Lager. This was an "entry level brew" that is a crisp and clean tasting pale lager. Nothing distinctive but enough character to take it out of the realm of your typical macro. Then there was "Number 9" an apricot accented pale ale that was a little heavy on the fruit for our tastes but was drinkable and had some dry and sour notes that meet many of the requirements of a summer quencher. The aroma of apricots wafting from our glasses reminded me of a summer harvest of the featured fruit. Next up was "Batch 370",the brewers rendition of a traditional German Hefe-Weizen. Cloudy sunshine yellow with a rocky white head. Aromas of cloves, bananas and bubble-gum. The taste was dry and sweet with spice and fruit and even a little "Double-Bubble". Not at all out of place with this style. The next brew, Batch 371, was also a Weizen but this time it was a "Dunkel-Weizen." This was, we agreed, was the most flavorful brew that we tried that visit. This rich dark-amber elixir with a short lived white head was slick on the tongue and palate. The nose was fruit, caramel and spice. The taste was rich and complex. Some ripe fruit, some cloves and other unidentifiable spices and a rather short-lived dry hop finish.

Over the following days we sampled a few other of the Magic Hat brews in bottles and found them all to be good solid performers. These beers are available on a regular basis at Buy-Rite in Atlantic Highlands in single variety six and 12 packs as well as the seasonal sampler twelve packs: "The Summer Variety Show" and "The Night of the Living Dead."

The Fourth and Final Installment in this series will cover some of the beers we acquired at places other than the source.

Hope your summer was grand. Schools Open, drive carefully.

Magic Hat Brewing

The Breweries of Vermont Part Two

2005-08-30T07:27:00.000-04:00

North on Route 100 a winding, roller-coaster of a road to the sleepy hamlet of Waterbury, where just off main street resides the Alchemist.

Whats in a name? In days of old Alchemists would scam money from unwitting patrons with tales and theories of turning lead into gold among other improbabilities. The scam was perpetrated by the Alchemist asking for increasing amounts of cash "needed" by the Alchemist to purchase the additonal "rare and secret ingedients" to complete the transformation process. For grins type the words Edward Kelley and Alechemist into Google and you will be shown a link to the Occultopedia for information on a Rougue, Alchemist and Lawyer named Edward Kelley

I was beginning to feel like an Alchemist of sorts with my own family. "We are almost there guys...just a few more minutes...be patient...another ten minutes ... I promise we'll be there shortly." Until at last, unlike the Alchemist Edward Kelley of old, I pulled a brewpub out of my hat. Or rather I pulled up to a brew pub. Outside looks fairly non-descript. An old brick storefront with the name artfully painted on the windows. You enter the door and are greeted by a high ceilinged room with a bar on the right and tables to the left. The light fixtures are eclectic chandeliers, the decor is a mix of unpainted brick, hardwoods and stainless steel. Cozy and inviting. We had a short wait during which the bartender left his post at the bar and crossed the room to see if we needed a drink. We did. I ordered an ale called Wild Child, my wife had the Hefty Weizen and the kids Artisanal Sodas Called "Pop Soda."

My beer arrived and it was hazy pale red, it had little head, little carbonation and the aromy was spicy, fruty with some biscuit aroma. The taste was delightfully sour much like a Flemish Red Ale. Very refreshing. My wife's beer was the brewer's cask-conditioned impression of a German Hefe-Weizen. It was fresh and tasty. Better than any of this style I have tried to date. The appearance was hazy yellow with a rocky white head. The aroma was classic Hefe-Weizen, bannanas and other tropical fruits, cloves and other spices, hints of bubble-gum. The taste was also the classic Hefe Weizen taste. Slightly sweet malt, a touch of floral hops, like my brew this beer was also crisp and refreshing. My eldest son's Lemon-Ginger soda was tasty and refreshing as well. So much so that we spent a fair amount of time trying to find a retail source for it.

As this is not a food column I will not dwell on the food except to say it was fresh, delicious and innovative. My burger was blackened, topped with bleu cheese and paired with Belgian style fries that were served with homemade mayonnaise.

Next week...the wacky World of Magic Hat!

Some links:

Occultopedia

The Alchemist Brewery

PopSoda

The Breweries of Vermont, Part One

2005-08-26T11:39:00.000-04:00

So we loaded up the Tahoe and we headed north to Vermont. Yes, Vermont, the Green Mountain State; a verdant paradise of Appalachian vistas, clear running streams, captive insurers and excellent micro-breweries. My family is a tolerant bunch. They indulge me in my beer hobby. They have to of course, I am driving and it is a long walk home.

We crossed into Vermont in the Vicinity of Whitehall, New York. Formerly called Skenesborough, Whitehall is the birthplace of the United States Navy. It was in the harbor of this historic town that Benedict Arnold assembled his fleet of vessels before the October 11, 1776, Battle of Valcour Island. Though Arnold was defeated, with a significant loss of life and vessels on the both sides, the resistance encountered by the British and their losses caused them to delay their southward movement and return to Canada until the following spring. This bought the colonists valuable time and set the stage for the 1777 campaign in upstate New York. This campaign culminated in the stunning American victory at Saratoga on October 17, 1777. Alas I again have wandered off the trail…

So on into the Green Mountain State we drove. The Incredibles on the portable DVD player, three children blissfully ignoring the bovine adorned scenery (though they noted the earthy aroma) and my wife and I having a civil navigational discussion (cough, choke, muttered curses under the breath). Ultimately we arrived at our first stop on the beer tour, the Long Trail Brewing Company in Bridgewater Corners, Vermont (www.longtrail.com). We arrived from the South, the building is a modern structure built in the fashion of a dairy barn. With a peaked tin roof and an idyllic location on the banks of a rushing stream, it welcomed us and beckoned us to explore and experience. Alas it was not to be… a t-shirt and some beer to bring home was all we had allotted time for. They serve lunch and have indoor and outdoor seating. Their gift shop is well stocked and reasonably priced. The restrooms were clean.

I chatted briefly with one of the staff and complimented her on their fine ales, which are now available (since this spring) in New Jersey. She said their sales had increased nearly 25% over the same period last year. She recommended that I purchase some of their unfiltered India Pale Ale as it was fresh and available only at the brewery. I bit and I will share my review in a later column.

The Long Trail Beers I did try were all consistently excellent. Their flagship Long Trail Ale is a fruity, spicy and balanced Altbier. Double Bag is a richly textured, slightly maltier “Double Alt.” Hit the Trail Ale is a deliciously malty, lightly hopped, light to medium bodied, English Brown Ale. The “Blackbeary Wheat” is a flavored wheat beer that my wife and I both agreed was crisp and delicious. Sharply sour blackberry notes on a background of soft wheat malts. I normally eschew flavored wheat beers but it was a warm Vermont afternoon and the tart refreshing taste struck the right chord with us.

Sadly they did not yet have any Hibernator, their Scotch Ale, available for tasting.

Then it was back in the car and Northward on Route 100 to Waterbury. Our next stop, The Alchemist, a brewpub. (to be continued)

Judge Rules Miller Genuine Draft Not Proven to be Beer

2005-08-10T09:50:00.000-04:00

We already knew this...

By Holly Herman
Reading Eagle

The case went flat for prosecutors when Berks County Judge Jeffrey K. Sprecher dismissed charges against a 44-year old Kutztown man accused of buying beer for his 17-year-old neighbor.
The teen, Shawn Putnam of Kutztown, testified at a pretrial hearing that Gregg R. Hartman, his neighbor, bought him a case of Miller Genuine Draft at Duffer's Distributors in Kutztown on Jan. 7 and that he drank five beers from the case.

But Sprecher ruled, in an order made available Tuesday, that prosecutors failed to prove Miller Genuine Draft is indeed beer.

Sprecher sided with the defense and ruled Putnam's testimony was not enough to prove Hartman of the 300 block of East Walnut Street bought beer.

“They did not have any beer cans or tests to prove it was beer,” argued defense attorney David R. Eshelman.

Eshelman said prosecutors did not present a state Liquor Control Board list of all beers.

“There is no testimony on the record that the beer contained any alcohol,” he said. “In most cases, the prosecutors will give a list from the state with names of beer to prove that it is beer. In this case, they did not do that.”

On Tuesday, Assistant District Attorney Joseph R. Speece filed a request for Sprecher to reconsider his decision and included with that the state's list of beers.

“We thought that the boy's testimony proved that he drank beer,” Speece said.

According to testimony at the pretrial hearing:

Hartman picked up Putnam to drive him to a restaurant. Instead, Putnam said, Hartman agreed to drive him to the distributor and buy beer for Putnam.

Putnam drank five beers in the car while Hartman drove around.

Hartman's car skidded on the right side of Long Lane in Greenwich Township and went off the road at 11:20 p.m.

State police responded, and Hartman was charged with furnishing liquor to minors.

Officials said Putnam was cited for underage drinking and pleaded guilty. Further details were unavailable.

Eshelman said the law requires prosecutors to prove the beer contained at least 5 percent alcohol.

“No testimony or evidence on records proved that Miller Genuine Draft contained 5 percent alcohol,” Eshelman said. “I was not surprised with the outcome. It was the right outcome.”

Beer and memory.

2005-08-10T08:58:00.000-04:00

Brooklyn in the 1960's. There was the Jingle..."My beer is Rheingold the dry beer, think of Rheingold whenever you buy beer, it's refreshing not sweet, it's the extra dry treat, won't you try extra dry Rheingold Beer.." That jingle was everywhere. On the Radio, on the TV and at the Ball Game. Mr. Met even drank Rheingold beer. There was the special glass that Grandpa Eddy reserved for his brew of choice. It was sort of a wide-mouthed stemmed pilsner with the familar red and white logo. Then there were the secret sips that he would give me as we had Sunday Dinner. Grandma served up roasted chicken and potatoes and that secret bread pudding recipe that she baked in a pyrex bowl, sometimes it was rice pudding. I remember how the sunlight filtered through the Irish Lace sheers that covered the windows. I remember the heavy mahogany furnishings and the broad dark wood trim and tin ceilings. I remember Sunday dinners in Brooklyn and I remember my first sips of Rheingold Beer.

As I type this at my computer I know that Grandpa Eddy and Granny Mary Smyth are long gone, but I will always have them in my memories. I am sitting in Grandpa's desk chair that he was given by the Federal Reserve Bank of New York. His gold watch and cuff-links are proudly dispalyed in the glass curio cabinet atop my bookcase. Sometimes, as I sip a cold beer with my family at Sunday Dinner I still remember that special glass. Yes I let my kids have a sip of beer now and again ... the wrinkled nose says it all.

As an aside I have tried the new Rheingold. Surprisingly, it tastes much as I remember it, though the new brewer has sweetend it up a bit and bottled it a long-necked clear glass bottle with a painted label. Rheingold, it isn't the best beer out there but for me, one sip and I am back in Brooklyn.

Leipziger Gose

2005-08-09T14:57:00.000-04:00

This is one of the hardest to find beers of Summer, but it is worth seeking out for a delightful change of pace. This past week has been hazy, hot and humid on the Bayshore. The Dawg days of August call for heavy duty refreshment. This is the time of year when something light, crisp and perhaps a touch acidic can take the edge off the oppressive heat.

Gose is a style of beer unique to Leipzig, Germany and environs. It can trace its origins back to 1842, the same year as another perennial favorite style, the Pilsner, was first being brewed in Pilsen, Bohemia (Now the Czech Republic) to the South. It is also the same year that a famous all male Military Academy was founded in Charleston, South Carolina ... but I digress. Gose was once brewed by more than 20 local breweries. The Leipzig area fell upon hard times in the wake of the Second World War and the style all but vanished. Since reunification it has made a comeback with two regional brwers distributing Gose both in the region and the export market.

The style is reminiscent of the Weiss beers of neighboring Bavaria in that the grain bill is comprised of between 50 and 60 per cent malted wheat. The other malts are a Pilsener and a small proportion of Munich. The hops are Northern Brewer (for bitterness) and Perle, from the nearby Elbe-Saale growing area. Like most wheat beers, Gose has very little hop bitterness. In this particular style, the balancing dryness is provided by the ground coriander seeds and salt, which are added in the in the final stages of the mash.

If the proof of the pudding is in the eating, the proof of the beer is in the drinking. The beer was bottled in a long necked 25.4 ounce "flasche" with a porcelain stopper and a painted lable. The bottle looked like something you would find at an antique fair. Quite lovely actually. I chose a thin - walled .4 liter "Stange" to savor this beer as that was the closest thing I had to the Glass that was depicted in the hand of the very happy looking man in the label illustration.

The beer poured a hazy, sunshine yellow...not unlike the weather we have been having. The head was thick and creamy and it clung to the sides of the glass in thick clumps. The aroma was cirusy, spicy with malty/bready undertones. The palate is acidic and sharply sour with hints of spice and traces of salt. The sourness was profound and refreshing. This truly is a beer to take the edge off the heat.

I obtained my sample of Gose at Super Saver off route 22 East in Somerville. The distributor for this product is Hunterdon Brewing
. I have also seen it in the smaller half-liter bottle at Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank.

The Dumbing Down of American Beer

2005-08-02T08:27:00.000-04:00

Firstly, thank you to Michele of Shore Point Distributors in Freehold for taking the time to answer a few questions about your employer, the Beer Supplier to Seastreak. Michelle we hope you enjoyed your ride on the Ferry and arrived home safely. Now, perhaps you can convince your employer to promote some other Coors brands on the Boats. Killian's, Caffrey's, Winterfest, Steinlager and Blue Moon are all Coors Brand's and more flavorful and tasty brews by comparison with some of the other Coors products. I also note that Yuengling is also distributed by your employer. They make a great Porter and a decent Lager and the are available in cans. Hey, it can't hurt to ask, right?

There was a time when America's mainstream brews were flavorful and full bodied. Where each beer had a distinct character and brand loyalty was based on a beers taste not the Swedish Bikini team or a pair of talking Geckos. That era has passed. The descent into beer purgatory started during the 50's. By the 80's the only tasty beers were imports. The rest of the market was mass produced, mass advertised and intended to be consumed in mass quantities. Today's mainstream brews focus more on convenience and "refreshment" as opposed to character. This is how they are marketed and this is what they live up to. American mainstream beers have largely evolved to become what are called "Adjunct Lagers." They are fermented from a certain percentage of malted barley, but also corn, wheat, rice, sorghum and other less expensive cereal grains. They are lagered with carefully cultivated yeast strains. They are lightly hopped with carefully processed dried hop pellets. The resulting brews are very mild in the palate. The brewers aim is to not offend anyone’s tastes as opposed to seeking a distinctive flavor and style. This guarantees them the broadest possible appeal to consumers. As the resultant beers are so mild and similar in profile, brand loyalty is acquired through marketing and gimmickry and not the brewing art.

These modern macro-lagers are however masterfully consistent - a Coors in Denver will taste the same as one in Miami regardless of which brewery it was produced at. This is indeed a modern marvel. Alas, to me, drinking a consistent bland beer is nowhere near as rewarding as savoring a full bodied beer with character. Just ask a serious scotch or wine drinker why they drink what they drink. They will likely tell you that they enjoy the depth and character of the drink they may say they find it relaxing to linger over a glass or two trying to tease ot the taste of the soil or the oak. They may also have a list of "every day" or "ordinary" drinks that they enjoy with meals or at parties. They also have "special occasion" drinks that they enjoy with a good book. It is also this way with many beer aficionados.

Now, we all know the stereotype image that beer drinkers have ... It does not have to be that way. The Craft Brewing Movement is taking back our beer. Now you can get reasonably priced, distinctive beer at most well stocked stores. In our area check out the vast selection at the Spirits Unlimited outlets in Red Bank and Middletown. Even our little Buy-Rite in Atlantic Highlands has some nice macro alternatives as well. Go ahead think out of the box. Before you grab that 30 Pack of Keystone and head for the block party, consider instead a couple of six-packs of a decent American Pale Ale or a locally brewed Pilsner. You may just find a new "usual."

Remember to think Global and Drink Local.

Home Brewing - Not me!

2005-07-28T08:48:00.000-04:00

Home Brewing – A Cautionary Tale

While on a family trip to England I fell in love with the tasty, if somewhat flat, beers that they served in the many pubs that we visited. One day, whilst visiting one of my father’s colleagues, we were treated to some home brewed beer. It was quenching, refreshing and tasty. I said to myself: “Yeah I could do that.” Thusly, so convinced I visited the local “Chemist” and picked up two kits for making beer at home as well as a recipe book for traditional beers. Later that week, as we boarded the plane at Heathrow, I was convinced that I was going to make the tastiest and strongest beer possible. Boy was I in for a rude awakening.

I arrived home and proceeded to scour the countryside and gather the essential equipment: several cases of empty beer bottles (stale beer – yum) a glass carboy with a fermentation lock, siphon tubing, sterilizer tablets, bottle brushes and etc. etc. This was no minor undertaking let me assure you. Months passed and mail order acquisitions of more “essentials” were made. Eventually the day arrived when I had it all … or so I thought. That little voice that often says: “Are you really sure you want to do this?” was conveniently absent during most of this process.

In my mothers pristine kitchen I arrayed my ordnance: malt extract, yeast, extra sugar and the biggest pot that Mom owned - 8 Quarts. The “book” said to use a larger pot but I figured I could boil in two batches…the first of many short-cuts. I filled the pot with water and proceeded to boil it. When a good rolling boil was attained I opened the malt extract can and attempted to pour it in the boiling water. Well you can imagine my surprise when the dark brown gelatinous mass, that is malt extract, refused to depart the can in which it came. In my zeal to overcome it’s obstinacy I dropped the entire can into the pot. The resultant splash of scalding water left delightful welts on my hands and forearms The hot water however worked its magic and the now warmed extract flowed freely from the can into the boiling water thus creating a sickly sweet smelling Barley Soup. I fished the can out of the now brim filled pot using a long handled fork…spilling some of the pots and the cans remaining contents on the floor, some on the range and some on the countertop. The sugars in the extract began to burn instantly. The “wonderful” smell wafting through the house captured my family’s interest. One by one they trooped into the kitchen to see what was up. My mother was just commenting on the odor when the now un-watched pot full of sickly sweet elixir boiled over onto her formerly pristine range-top. The boiling extract, rich in maltose and other sugars caramelized onto all the range surfaces. Smoke began to rise from the range hood and the smoke detector sent out the shrill reminder that usually indicated that Mom had burned the rolls again… The boiled over water extract mix eventually extinguished the burner on the stove. The situation deteriorated rapidly from this point onward but I will spare you the story of the exploding bottles and the sticky kitchen floor, you get the idea, and perhaps fully understand why I now purchase beer only after it has been brewed.

Big Beers.

2005-07-18T08:46:00.000-04:00

Bigger can sometimes be better. Now before you run out and buy that forty ouncer of Steel Reserve "High Gravity" or that 30 pack of a well known "fine pilsner beer", you need to know that I am not writing to extol the virtues of quantity, I am referencing beers with a "bigger" profile. Namely: Barley Wines, Eisbocks, Baltic Porters, Doppelbocks, Strong Old Ales, Belgian Tripples and what can best be described as "Extreme" versions of traditional styles such as "Imperial" Stouts, Porters and Pale Ales.

Bigger beers run the gamut from having a rich malty profile reminiscent of a Ruby Port, one that perhaps suggests "dessert" to a sharp, citrus, hop profile that suggests a very dry white wine. Now before anyone gets their knickers in a knot about this comparison of beer and wine, please consider that while advocating good beer it is sometimes essential to provide a point of reference. As you explore new styles and tastes do not overlook the chance to try the occasional Big Beer. Consider the following suggestions:

As an aperitif to "whet" your guests appetite pair that summer salad with an Imperial Pale Ale. Served up in a white wine glass the sharp hop profile will stimulate the appetite, and the inevitable citrus flavors and aromas will compliment the greens and the vinegar based dressing. If spicy food is on the menu offer up more of the same as the strong profile is more than a match for fiery chilies.

When serving a rich buttery cheese, such as Brie, Gouda, Havarti or Swiss, consider offering your guests a Doppelbock or an Eisbock served in a Burgundy glass. The huge, rich malt profile will compliment the cheese nicely.

When you might serve a Port or a Sauterne as a dessert wine consider an "Old Ale" or a Barley Wine. Or try it matched with some Stilton or Maytag Bleu and some Crusty bread. Why not?

Have I piqued your curiosity? Next time you are in a good beer store consider purchasing some big beers to add to your larder. My recommendations are Victory "Old Horizontal" Barley Wine; North Coast Brewing "Old Stock Ale"; Smutty Nose Brewing "Big A" Imperial Pale Ale, Heavyweight Brewing "Old Salty" Barley Wine and "Perkuno's Hammer" Baltic Porter; Sam Adams "Double Bock" and "Scotch Ale"; Aventinus "Weizen Eisbock"; Samuel Smith's "Imperial Stout" Hint: If you have a cool, dark place in your home you may wish to lay some of these beers down to mature a bit more in the bottle.

Think Global and Drink Local

Freshness and Packaging

2005-07-06T09:06:00.000-04:00

Many people have asked me variations of the following three questions. While reasonable minds may differ, here are my thoughts:

What is the best packaging for beer?

As of today, we have four main choices: Glass Bottles; Plastic Bottles; Aluminum Cans; and now Aluminum Bottles. You will note there is no mention of Keg or Cask. This is deliberate as I don't consider either of these very portable and thus outside the scope of this weeks coulumn.

Beer is light sensitive. The Ultra Violet (UV) light that we need sunglasses and sunscreen to block out affects our beer as well. UV light damages beer. The ideal packaging for beer will admit as little light as possible. This makes aluminum cans and bottles the ideal container for UV protection. Alas, while the number of brands is growing, the number of quality beers in aluminum cans and bottles is somewhat limited. As I write this, only a few craft beers are available. Brown bottles come next in terms of protection, then green and lastly with no protection clear bottles. I believe plastic bottles permit light transmission in a manner and degree similar to glass, so again, brown, green and clear in that order. I usually avoid green and clear bottles whenever possible. Personally, the "skunk risk factor" is way out of proportion to the price of the beer. If you must buy such packaging try to buy something that is fully encased in cardboard. The less exposure to light the better. When you have no choice consider the following precautions:

When buying clear bottle beers such as Corona, Tecate, Sol or Newcastle get the twelve pack or buy a case that is fully boxed. Same goes for beer in green bottles like Heineken or Rolling Rock. You should also note that many of these beers are also available in cans. Consider buying the cans and drinking from a glass or plastic tumbler.

When buying beer from a lighted refrigerator case, take your pack from the back of the case. Flourescent lights will also harm a beer. Again, less light exposure equals better tasting beer.

When buying beer that is on the un-refrigerated shelves always go for the sixer in the back and out of the direct light.

How do I insure that I am getting the freshest beer posssible?

Firstly, there are never any guarantees but always check the freshness date.

As you know beer is a food product made of four common ingredients (Water, Malts/Grains, Hops and Yeast). Like any food product it is sensitive to the conditions under which it is stored and the length of time it is stored before consumption. One hears tales from people that have completed a brewery tour about that beer they served at the end of the tour and how it was the freshest, cleanest, tastiest & etc. Like most breads (that incidently share three ingredients with beer) freshness counts. That "Born on Date" that a major St Louis based brewer touts, is for real. While some artisanal beers, and many of those with higher Alcohol By Volume, benefit from aging, most beer is best consumed within a few weeks or months of bottling/canning. WARNING: When you see a beer on markdown check the freshness date before putting it in the cart! I have been burned. That great bargain became the first of several drain pours.

Temperature affects the freshness and taste of beer. Exposure to heat will accelerate the breakdown of beer, will lead to loss of freshness faster and may result in a stale or skunky beer. Practically speaking it is difficult to avoid beer that has been exposed to excessive heat. Unless we buy it at the source we don't know where the beer has been. To reduce the risks of heat damage, buy from local craft brewers as the beer will have spent less time in transit. Also consider buying from the cold case if possible. This will increase the chances of a fresh brew reaching your palate while still at its peak of freshness.

What type of container keeps beer colder longest??

Aluminum cans and bottles chill faster than glass or plastic. Consequently, they also warm up a bit faster. This is not a signifigant factor if you enjoy your beer from a glass as the brewer intends it. It is also more convenient to transport, store and recycle aluminum. Glass will keep you beer cooler longer, and feels better in the hand, on the lips and on the tongue than aluminum. But, again if you drink from a glass so you can smell and taste the brew as intended by the brewer, this is not a big plus. Glass also breaks and transmits light.

Hope you found this discussion helpful. Until next time, remember to think global and drink local.

We lost a great one today.

2005-06-29T14:57:00.000-04:00

Shelby Foote, that loquacious Mississippian, has left us. His three volume set on the American Civil War chronicles one of the few wars that actually resolved anything. To read his prose is to experience the epitome of fine writing merged with the historian's craft. Most of us first became aware of Shelby as a feature commentator on Ken Burns' series, The Civil War. He wrote like he spoke: The eloquent metered pace of a white suited Southern Gentleman. General Lee did not merely watch the progress of the battle...Rather Foote might write: "General Lee, from his perch astride Traveler, that noble dappled mare that carried him for so long, observed the ebb and flow of the epic struggle taking place...."

He perhaps never found a way to say things quickly, but he said them well and with an objective honesty that was refreshing.

You heard it ... read it here first.

2005-06-29T12:19:00.000-04:00

I just got an e-mail from the President of Hunterdon Brewing. Dale's Pale Ale is coming to NJ. Woo Hoo! Finally a "Can Beer" that kicks ass! You read it here first folks.

Random thoughts and comments

2005-06-29T10:39:00.000-04:00

I find more and more people are intersted in full flavored ales. I sat next to someone on the ferry that is a Pale Ale fan. She was excited that I had appealed to the ferry operator for better choices in beer.

There was a good article in the Dining and Wine section of the New York Times today. We are going to have to stock up on Pale Ales for the Fourth. This article is a good place to start. I noted with some amusement that the beer they selected as their top choice was a "can" beer. No light damage. Have to check with Hunterdon to see if this beer is coming to NJ soon.

Better Beer on the Bounding Main

2005-06-28T10:02:00.000-04:00

Bud, Miller Lite, Coors Light, Heineken, Amstel Light. This is the beer selection on the Seastreak Ferries. Pitiful. At over $500 per month to commute one should expect a beer selection that is, shall we say, geared for the discriminating palate perhaps? Dare I suggest, a selection that made a token effort to support the local craft brewers from the Tri-State region? Perhaps they could consider the fine Jersey Gold brewed by Hunterdon Brewing for Service on the Seastreak New Jersey ? They have a vessel named the Seastreak Brooklyn, why not serve the fine beers from the Brooklyn Brewery? For a company that prides itself on local involvement and stresses quality of service they are somewhat remiss in the beer department. At this point my long suffering wife is saying "sit down Ed your making an A$$ of yourself." Undaunted by the gales of protest,it is on this very tack that I chose to write to the President of the Company in an appeal to bring better beer to the waterbourne commiuters that ride the Seastreak Ferries...

June 28, 2005

Mr. Geoffrey Ede
Managing Director
Hoverspeed Ltd
International Hoverport
Dover
Kent
United Kingdom
CT17 9TG

VIA TELECOPIER ONLY

Dear Mr. Ede:

I am writing to request that you consider serving better quality beer on the Seastreak Ferry service to New York City. As a company that prides itself on high quality of service, your selection of beer is uniformly adjunct based lagers. This style of beer tends to be rather sparing of character and taste. There are no Porters, Bitters, Stouts or Ales of any type available on any of your Monmouth County based vessels. I note that you do serve such beers on your UK based services. The riders on your vessels deserve better choices and different beer styles. . Locally brewed versions of the aforementioned styles are readily available from most local distribution outlets

Please consider, as a member of the Monmouth County business community, that you are uniquely positioned to support and showcase our proud regional brewers. Perhaps you may wish to consider featuring different brewer’s products on a rotating basis. This increased selection will also enhance the commuting experience and introduce your riders to beers that they might otherwise never take the opportunity to sample. Your riders win by getting a chance to discover a new high quality beer, you win by enhancing customer loyalty and reinforcing the perception that you value quality over conformity, and the local brewers win by getting a chance to market their wares to a select clientele.

I understand that you rely on “popular” brews to ensure that you are not left with unwanted stock. With proper promotion, and reasonable pricing I think you will find that you can enhance your customers commuting experience, support your fellow entrepreneurs and not be left with unwanted stale beer.

In the interest of full disclosure: I am not affiliated with any local brewers or beer distributors, nor do I work in the beverage industry. I am however a Seastreak customer and use your service on average 10 times per week. Should you be interested I will gladly make some recommendations to you or your designee, though I suspect your local staff already has a contact in the local distribution chain that could, if requested, furnish some quality, local beers.

Thank you for your time and consideration.

Respectfully,

Edward Kelley

Atlantic Highlands, NJ

Brooklyn and Pilsner

2005-06-22T09:52:00.000-04:00

Brooklyn and Pilsner ... I don't get it?

Yup, that's just what I said. But "get it" is what you can and should do. Get it and try it. I am of course referring to the Brooklyn Brewery's "Brooklyn Pilsner". This is a solid and tasty brew. True to the style it is sunshine yellow with a fluffy white head, has a sweet floral hop aroma and a balanced yet spicy profile that is not as bracing as a hoppy Pale Ale nor is it bland and insipid like a big brewery "Pilsner Wannabee." (Miller Lite - a "True Pilsner Beer"...Yeah right whatever you say Madison Avenue.) While we are on a Pilsner kick, I'd like to suggest you also try Victory Brewing's "Prima Pils." A superior interpretation of the style as well, though a bit hoppier than the Brooklyn, it is another refreshing beer that will take the edge off a June evening on the front porches in and around our fair little Borough. These brews are all available at Buy-Rite in the Bayshore Shopping Center.

Just what is a Pilsner beer you ask? A Pilsner is a lager beer style said to have originated in Bohemia (part of the old Czechoslovakia) in and around the Village of Pilsen (Pilzen). The style dates back to approximately 1840. Interestingly enough, a neighboring village to Pilsen is Budweis, home of the Original Budweiser, though due to trademark restrictions it is only available only in this country under the curious name of "Czechvar." In Europe and elsewhere "Budweiser" or "Budvar" is the name used. A popular style, Pilsner-like beers are brewed around the globe: From the highly regarded Bedele Pilsner of Ethiopia to the Ginga Kogen Pilsner of Japan. Of course then there are the German Style "Pilsners". Personally I find the German Pilsners a bit hoppier and bit fuller bodied than the Czech Pilsners that I have tried. I would place both the Brooklyn and Victory Pilsners in the grouping with the German Pilsners. Examples of the Czech style include the readily available Pilsner Urquell and Czechvar as mentioned above.

Gastronomically, you will want to pair that Pilsner with some spicy Chicken Sate, Thai Food in General, Szechwan-Style Chinese dishes or an Italian Hot Dog ( http://www.jimmybuff.com )

If Baseball Players are the "Boys of Summer" Pilsners, Pale Ales and Wheat beers are the "Beers of Summer." We'll save the latter two for a future column.

While we are on the subject of beer and summertime I have been asked by several of you to comment on what my "favorite" beer is and what do I always have in the house. The short answer is that it varies with the seasons and the reasons, ask me in October and you are likely to get a different answer. My "cheap indulgence" beer is Ballantine Ale, a good inexpensive beach beer that comes in a funky green can. It's fruity, its malty and its dirt cheap. My "the yard work is done and a reward is in order" beer is a toss-up between Sierra Nevada's Pale Ale, Victory's Prima Pils, Brooklyn's Pilsner and Magic Hat's Hocus Pocus. My "its a cool night on the porch, the kids are in bed" beer is Dogfish Head's Indian Brown Ale, Brooklyn's Brown, Long Trail's Double Bag and Avery's New World Porter.

Now the rant. Why is it you can go to a Country Club, one that charges Tens of Thousands of Dollars to become and remain a member,one that still charges you several hundred dollars for each round of Golf with a guest, one where the Pro Shop will sell you a box of Titlest Pro VI golf balls for nearly $50.00 and yet the only beer available at any price is thin, fizzy, watery pale yellow beer?

Hmmm.

Respect for Beer

2005-06-14T11:10:00.000-04:00

As a promoter of Beer I always try to encourage others to increase their respect for Beer. (Yes, I am a frequently a bore at parties when this topic comes up.) What does that entail you ask? Well it is hard to articulate precisely, but, a now deceased Supreme Court Justice once remarked on another topic: “I know it when I see it.” I can however give you some examples of disrespect that range from the mundane to the insane. You can connect the dots from there.

Example One - Drinking beer from the can or bottle. This is not a snobbery issue it is a genuine issue of proper treatment. Beer benefits from proper serving. Just as wines and spirits are best enjoyed from a proper glass, at an appropriate temperature and paired with the proper foods. Drinking a beer from a glass allows you to enjoy its color, clarity, head formation, aroma and liberates you from any hint of metallic taste imparted by touching the can as you sip from it.

Cans v. Bottles – Can beer tastes different. Beer from cans and beer from bottles are no different. They are the same recipe and given today’s advances in coating technology no aluminum taste is transferred to the beer. Even though cans chill faster, do not break, are lighter in weight, protect their contents from damaging light exposure, use fewer natural resources, recycle easier and take up less space in the cooler they are still less popular with the average beer drinker. Why is that? Long-standing myths that can beers taste metallic. Don’t trust me? Try a blind taste test. Buy a beer you know that comes in both cans and bottles, make sure they are close in freshness dates and invite your friends over. Pour side by side samples into two beer clean glasses for each guest and let me know what the consensus is. E-mail me at beerman@ahherald.com. Next time I see you on Sandy Hook you had better be toting cans and a polycarbonate tumbler or there is no beer for you today!

Boilermakers, Depth Charges – and similar mixed media efforts at intoxication. This weekend I was treated to the visual spectacle of a drink called an “Irish Car Bomb.” I did not drink one I assure you. Political annoyances aside, this struck me as alcohol abuse pure and simple. Curious? You take a pint of a fine Dry Stout like Guinness and a shot glass containing a shot of that respectable Irish Whisky, Bushmill’s and a splash of the famously overpriced Bailey’s Irish Cream. You drop the Bailey’s/Bushmill’s shot into the Guinness then chug this concoction for presumably explosive effect. Drinks such as this clearly demonstrate that with alcohol, as with food, a recipe does not always equal the sum of its parts. Guinness, Bailey’s and Bushmill’s on their own can be sipped, savored and enjoyed. Mixing them and the chugging them will get you drunk quickly, but any enjoyment you derive from this experience will be fleeting, though the ensuing hangover and the chance to drive the porcelain bus may last some time.

Beer Bongs – Shot-Gunning Beers. These are one and the same; the goal is to get the most beer into your stomach as quickly as possible. No taste, no smell, no savoring, just - whoosh and “get me another dude that was awesome.” How anyone could consider this respectful of beer or even enjoyable evades me. I consider this a recipe for disaster. There was a lad in Australia that took this a step further and linked a reservoir and tube to a power drill to automate the process. He punctured his esophagus and made headlines. Enough said.

The Smoke Gets in Your Beer

2005-06-08T07:00:00.000-04:00

I know what you are thinking and no, this is not the blog where I discuss the pleasures of smoky bars, good cigars and women of indifferent virtue. This is my invitation to those of you that are up to a real adventure in your exploration of beer styles.

Let’s start our journey in the Fulda Gap. Any of you Cold Warriors out there will know that this is the region in Central Western Germany that the Soviet Juggernaut was poised to traverse on its way to the Rhine and thence World Domination … Well, smack dab on that axis of advance, about 20 clicks east of Wurzburg lies the sleepy little city of Bamberg. Spared the ravages of two world wars, Bamberg with its canals and quaint city center it is often called the Venice of the North. Bamberg is also the home of Rauchbier.

The Rauchbier (literally “smoke beer”) style is an old beer style; its origins go back to the 1500's. It's typically a dark beer with a malty profile. Rauchbier bears a passing similarity to Oktoberfest bier. There is a difference though; to make a Rauchbier, a portion of the grain used includes barley that is dried over an open fire of beech wood, and this process imparts a unique smokiness to the malts. This smoked malt produces beers with a smoke flavor so robust, so assertive, that it tastes as if the beer has been smoked. The burning beech wood imparts a smoky aroma and taste, much like that of the pit-barbecue found in some parts of the United States. If you have no idea what I am talking about get thee down to the Memphis Pig Out on First Avenue, in our little Bamberg on the Bay. But first visit a well stocked liquor store and grab a bottle or two of Braueri Heller-Trum’s Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier http://www.schlenkerla.de/ to enjoy with your repast. This is a style that pairs well with our native barbecue. Paired up with some pulled pork, chicken, ribs, brisket, sausage or my personal favorite KC style burnt ends and you have a winner. Heller-Trum makes several styles of Rauchbier but I have only seen the Marzen, Ur-bock and Weizen locally.

There our other smoked beer styles. Some utilize varying portions of malt kilned over peat much like that used in Scots Whisky. While the smokiness is not as assertive in these beers they are unique and flavorful in their own right. Unibroue’s Raftman and Magic Hat’s http://www.magichat.net/ Jinx are two such beers. Rogue Ales http://www.rogue.com/ “Smoke Beer” uses malt kilned over alder wood. The portion of the grain bill that is actually “smoked” is fairly modest, so the smokiness is there but it is not nearly as powerful as it on a Bamberg Rauchbier.

If you don’t think Smoked Beer is your thing you still need to get a ‘cue fix at the Memphis Pig Out. You can pair that repast with a more traditional pilsner style if you must. Consider Victory Brewing Prima Pils … Yummy. Locally, you must try Heavyweight’s Cinder Bock http://heavyweight-brewing.com

Until next time … Think Global and Drink Local.

The Dreaded Beer Slump - And the Cure

2005-06-01T15:22:00.000-04:00

Well it has happened. Every once in a while I get into a slump. A time when I just cannot decide what beer to drink, all brews taste insipid and offer no relief from what ales me. This is usually induced by attendance at a function where no decent brews are available and my primal tastes are aroused then beaten senseless by a dram or two of the distilled stuff. This happened to yours truly over the weekend. We were on our way to the Atlantic Highlands PBA Ball when...

We stopped at the Fortier's on Fourth Avenue to savor the rich beers of the Berkshire Brewing Company http://www.berkshirebrewingcompany.com/ . Mike, the publican at this members only establishment, serves Berkshire Brews on Tap (and in 22 ounce Bomber Bottles if you are very nice to him). Mike has singularly shared with me these divine brews on many occassions. It is thanks to this noble, yet humble soul, that I have been able to enjoy nearly the full product line of these brewer/artisan's. Their products range from strong ales of heroic complexity to their "Traditional", a wonderful mild, session brew. Well, as it happens Mike was serving Steel Rail Extra Pale Ale, one of the Berkshire line that arouses one's palate and says only one word to me: "More". So we had two tall ones and dawdled down the Hill to the Ball.

We all grabbed beers, all watery yellow concoctions and after one Bud Light (I know, I know and there were witnesses too ... ahh the shame and horror)I was compelled to seek solace in a glass of Bombay Sapphire Gin. The botanical aroma and alcoholic warmth of the ice cold gin as it passed my lips was inescapable, sublime and wonderful. What followed can only be best described as a batting slump. Despite some CPR in the form of more Steel Rail on the walk home thier was no hope, the intrepid Beerman was flatlining.

Over the next couple of days repeated trips to the Legendary Beer Only Fridge yielded experiences that can best be compared to kissing ones sibling. The beer drinking experience that these visits yielded is best described as chaste, proper, respectful and utterly devoid of emotional attachment. No glorius flights of hop fancy in the IPA's, no rich rewarding coffee notes in the Brooklyn Chocolate Stout, no sweet malts in the Dussel Alt, no biscuity palate in the Long Trail Ale. Blah, Blah, Blah. Woe is me.

There is one light at the end of the tunnel however. A remedial drink so elegant and simple. A blissful beverage so pure and divine that while I know the slump will pass I am in no hurry to see it end. That saving Grace is, of course, the Plymouth Gin Very Dry Martini.

The Cure for the Beer Slump:

Take two 6 ounce cocktail glasses rinse and place in the freezer. 10 minutes should do it.

Half-Fill a steel shaker with fresh ice, no runny stuff from an ice bucket, get it right from the freezer if you must.

Add to the shaker 3 ounces of Plymouth Original Strength Gin, and a scant capful of Martini and Rossi Dry Vermouth or other quality dry vermouth.

Skewer and place three stuffed queen size olives on a small plate, (pimento, jalapeno, bleu cheese, almonds, anchovies or onion all work for me). I Do not put them into the drink, rather I leave them on the side.

Vigorously shake the Gin, Ice and Vermouth together until the the shaker is covered with with a heavy coating of frost on the outside (about two minutes). You will need to use a clean bar towel to hold the shaker if you do this right as your hands will get quite cold.

Remove one frosty cocktail glass from the fridge and strain the milky white slush into it. Then Sit on your front porch, take a nibble of an olive, and take your first ice cold sip of the cure for the Beer Slump. Repeat as neccessary. If symptoms persist for more than 2 weeks, switch to Manhattans or Margarita's.

Man (or Woman) cannot live on beer alone.

Think Local and Drink Global

Lambic, Gueuze and Wit

2005-05-24T10:23:00.000-04:00

These are three beer styles that are unique to Belgium. They share some common characteristics but are very different styles. I am typing this at my desk in New York City at 7:16 a.m. I will describe each style in some detail, this evening, after the kids are settled in their beds I will uncork and decant a Gueze and share the experience with you all.

Straight Lambic is a wheat beer that has been spontaneously fermented. While wheat beers are not that unusual, the wheat used for Lambic is unmalted. This requires that that the Wort be boiled for 4-6 hours to break down the sugars to a fermentable state. During the boil huge quantities of aged hops are added. The Hops are aged to reduce the aroma and bitterness imparted to the beer. The preservative qualities of the Hops survive the aging process however. The mash is now cooled and left to spontaneously ferment using the wild yeasts resident in the brewery, and thanks to the slatted roof and sides of the traditional buildings, the environs of Flanders where the style is brewed. This is an unpredictable process and the wild yeasts impart a sour fruitness that are the hallmarks of this style. The wild yeasts yield a rapid and vigorous primary fermentation lasting about 6 days, this is followed by a secondary fermentation over a period of several months. Both fermentations take place in wooden casks that were previously used for claret, port or sherry. The casks add another layer of complexity to the resultant brew. Young Lambic (referred to as "foxy" or "vos" in the local dialect)can be served at 3-6 months but true Lambic is cask matured for two years. The resultant Lambic is then distributed straight in cask or(less commonly) bottle. The Lambic will be virtually uncarbonated and quite tart.

Much Lambic is shipped to blenders who will create "Gueuze" from the blending of several Lambics. Unblended Lambic is a not that common in this country but you can usually locate a bottle of Lindemann's http://www.lindemans.be/ at the better beer stores such as Spirit's Unlimited in Red Bank or SuperSaver on Route 22 in Somerville. Expect to pay $4-5 for a 12 ounce bottle $8-9 for a 750 ml.

As mentioned above, most Lambic is blended to form another style of Beer called a Gueuze. The simplest blend is a mature and a new Lambic. The young Lambic, which contains some unfermented sugars, induces further fermentation and provides a subtle sweetness to offset the tartness of the mature Lambic. If the fermentation is in a bottle the Guezue will, unlike most Lambics be nicely carbonated, with a dryish yet fruity flavor.

Kriek is another blended Lambic where the additon of sour cherries induces a further fermentation. Kriek is an elegant beer. It is bottle conditioned and finished with a cork and cage. It pours a translucent pink with a pink tinged head. The taste is tart, sour cherry with some subtle malt notes. This beer is best enjoyed chilled from a stemmed champagne flute. Lambic can be blended with other fruit but Kriek (Cherries) and Framboise (Rasberries) are traditional. Lindeman's Kriek and Framboise can be readily found in most better stores. Expect to pay $4-5 for a 12 ounce bottle $7-9 for a 750 ml.

Wit or Belgian White beer is a style that was extinct until revivied by Pierre Celis in the early 1980's. That beer was called Hogaarden and is now readily available throught the local area. Mr. Celis went on to sell the brewery to a large conglomerate and opened a new brewery oustide of Austin, Texas. The eponomously named Celis Brewery produced some great beers until the brewery was sold to Miller Brewing who closed it down a few months after the sale. The Brand lives on with the name and recipe being owned by the Michigan Brewing Company. What of Mr. Celis? Why he is back in Belgium brewing new beers with a new start-up brewing operation. Expect great things from Pierre in the future.

But what exactly is Witbier or White Beer? Like Lambic, Wit uses Wheat that is un-malted (45%), there is also an additon of some Oats 5% also unmalted and the balance of the grain bill is malted Barley. During fermentation an ale yeast is used and some unusual ingredients are added to flavor the brew: Coriander and Curacao Orange peels; other spices such as cumin may be added depending on the brand. Prior to bottling, another yeast strain is added to bottle condition the beer, which is cellared for a few months prior to distribution. Brooklyn Brewery http://www.brooklynbrewery.com/ and Allagash Brewery http://www.allagash.com/ make two very respectable beers of this type. I have had the Brooklyn on tap and found it very refreshing and tasty. Expect to pay 7-8 dollars for a six pack of these brews. Hogaarden is in the same price range and very accessible for someone trying to expand their beer horizons.

Tonight as a treat I decided to crack open a bottle of Gueuze. The brand "Oud Beersel Oude Geuze Vielle" 16 ounce dark green bottle with a cork and cage closure.

The beer poured into the octagonal tumbler I chose, clear golden with a very slight amber hue. Abundant carbonation. The head was thick and creamy and persisted till the beer was finished and left thick brewers lace on the glass sides and bottom.

The aroma was fruity with sour apples, cherries and perhaps some ripe pineapple aroma. The aroma became acidic and sour with distinct earthiness and some wet oak.

The flavor was light with sour acidity leading followed by a light and persistent tart sourness. The flavor was also fruity, with no particular fruit distinguishable. The sourness was interesting and complex but not overdone.

The finish was dry with lasting fruitiness The body was medium. I expected a bit more aroma and flavor and certainly more sourness, but this is a drinkable and refreshing beer.

Best before date was June of 2026... no kidding. This is a beer you can cellar for a while.

AHHH! Bock

2005-05-19T21:51:00.000-04:00

Anyone that watched M.A.S.H. with any consistency will remember the episode where Radar was trying to act sophisticated to win the favors of a lady. To this end he affected a love of all things sophisticated, such as classical music. He practiced the utterance “Ahhh Bach” to show his love of the grand masters music. But I digress; this is about the beer and not music or television. Like the music of Bach, bock beer is deep, rich, sophisticated and has many variations on the same theme.

What exactly is a Bock Beer? Well let me tell you what it is not. It is not a beer that is brewed using the results of the “annual clearing” of the breweries pipes, tanks or the use of last seasons leftover grain. This urban legend still persists and is patently false. Breweries are scrupulously clean operations and are constantly being cleaned as anything less than absolute cleanliness risks spoiling the beer.

Bock beer (Bockbier) is a particular style of beer that originated in the town of Einbeck in Germany. It is a “lager” styled beer that is fermented at cooler temperatures over a long period of time. For many beer lovers, "bockbier" is the highlight of the Lenten fasting period that precedes Easter. Consequently, it is during this period that many breweries produce their strong, maltier bock beers. This nourishing specialty enjoys a long tradition: Centuries ago it was drunk by the Bavarian monks to help them survive the long Lent fasting season. After all, they reasoned: "liquid nourishment doesn't break our fasting oath".

For many breweries, bock beer is seen as the very pinnacle of the brewer's art. Almost every German brewery worthy of its name therefore includes a bock in its product range. Despite regional variations - slightly lighter in color in northern Germany and darker in the south - all bock beers have at least two things in common, higher alcohol content (around 5-7%) and a malty aroma. For those looking for something a little stronger, there's also a style called "Doppelbock" 7-9% alcohol and for the truly adventurous there is the legendary “Eisbock” with upwards of ten percent alcohol content. There are also Weizenbocks that have a significant amount of wheat added to an otherwise all malt brew. Roggenbocks, add Rye and there are versions that use smoked malt as well.

There are numerous legends surrounding the history of bock beer. Many people often wonder why monks - of all people - were allowed to drink such strong beer during their fasts. (Do you think it had something to do with being cloistered in an unheated, stone abbey with little to do besides create illuminated manuscripts? Add to this the fact that there were no women around to tell them to “put their clothes in the hamper and put the seat down?” Perhaps there may be some truth to this. Another popular tale explains how the monks arranged for Papal approval of this indulgence. Apparently the monks transported a barrel of the beer over the Alps to distant Rome in order to convince the "Holy Father" of its suitability for fasting. When the beer eventually reached the Pope, however, it had turned sour and was undrinkable. The Pope tasted the foul brew and had no qualms about permitting the monks to use the beer as liquid penance/sustenance during Lent. (Okay let’s agree to give this one a three on the 1 to 10 scale of truth or fiction. But it makes for a nice tale, and as these things go may contain a “grain” of truth…no pun intended.

Other sources claim that the beer has nothing to do with fasting. On the contrary, the Paulaner monks brewed it to celebrate the name day of their order's founder, Saint Francis of Paula (the Second day of April). The fact is that in 1751 the Paulaner monks received permission to produce and market a maltier beer called "St. Vaterbier", which was gradually changed to "Salvatorbier". After many other breweries had followed suit and called their own strong ales "Salvator", the monks succeeded in patenting the name in 1894. This led to a veritable boom in beers ending in "-ator" - even today, there are said to be over 200 Bavarian strong ales with the "-ator" suffix, including Maximator, Celebrator http://www.ayinger-bier.de , and Optimator today. Today you can buy these as well as Paulaner Salvator year round, though most aficionados agree that it is a Doppelbock not a straight bock beer.

But what about Einbeck? You know the place where the style originated? They still make bock beer there too. And it is the beer of Einbeck that sustained Martin Luther during his stay there. The bocks of Einbeck bear the appellation “Ur” for “original” and should be tried. Einbecker www.einbecker-brauhaus.de makes some fine examples of the style.

Here are some picks for you to start your exploration of this style with:

Bock Einbecker Ur-Bock Dunkel (dark) or Hell (light)

Doppelbock Samuel Adam’s Double Bock http://www.samadams.com , Paulaner Salvator http://www.paulaner.de/

Eisbock EKU 28 Kulminator http://www.kulmbacher.de/

Weizen-bock Aventinus* www.schneider-weisse.de/

Weizen Eisbock Aventinus Weizen-Eisbock*

All of these brews are available locally. Consider Spirits Unlimited on Newman Springs Road in Red bank as a one-stop place to get all of them. Other local venues may have one or more of them as well. Buy-Rite in Atlantic Highlands has the Sam Adam’s Double Bock for sure.

Next time we will talk about glassware for beer, cleaning a beer glass and the proper pour.

Four Simple Ingredients

2005-05-19T21:02:00.000-04:00

If your still awake by the time you get to this part of the Herald I am humbled by your fortitude and honored by your perseverance. I am sipping at a goblet of Weyerbacher, Heresy, this is a oak barrel aged Imperial Stout brewed by the Weyerbacher Brewery in Easton Pennsylvania. This is a

powerful brew full of complex flavors and the product of a painstaking process that involves hours of mashing, weeks of fermentation and months of aging, the culmination is a brew of heroic proportions that one can savor over the course of an hour or two. This is not your typical lawnmower beer; this is a beer for Tolstoy.

We have talked about the history and the ingredients; let’s tackle the general brewing process before we get involved in the individual styles. From time to time I may blurt out comments on the Weyerbacher so be warned. If you are under 21 skip ahead to the next paragraph.

Oddly enough we start by boiling some water (for some reason called liquor by the brewers) in a big pot called a “mash tun” into this water we add malted barley that has been ground and sieved into “grist.” The grist is added into the liquor and the resultant porridge like mess is called the “mash” This mash is boiled for some time. The duration of the boil will vary depending on the style of beer and the grains used. This could be several hours. The object being to break down and dissolve the fermentable materials (sugars) in the grist so that when the mash is decocted or strained as much of the sugar as possible will be dissolved into the liquor. The mash is drawn off the grist and the resultant clarified liquid is now called the “wort.” At this point the boiling wort is transferred to a second vessel called the “brew kettle” and is ready for hopping.

The Weyerbacher poured an elegant dark mahogany with a two finger deep chestnut head that was tightly beaded and rapidly faded to a slender ring at the edges of the goblet. The color is opaque when held up to the light, though soft highlights are evident near the very edges. This is a dark and foreboding brew, its inky darkness beckons the curious to take a long pull and savor…

The wort is re-heated in the brew kettle and hops are added at various times during this boil. If they are added early in the boil they tend to make the beer more bitter or dryer, if added later in the boil the major effect is aromatic. Sometimes they are added at separate times so that both effects are obtained. At the conclusion of this boil the hops are strained from the wort. This is the conclusion of the “brewing” part of the process.

The aroma of the Weyerbacher is vinous: ripe fruit, alcohol, almost burgundy like. Some earth and some oak notes… I am struck by the similarity between this brew and a burgundy or cabernet…

The wort is passed through a chiller to bring it to a temperature appropriate for the style; 60 –70 Fahrenheit for ales, cooler temps for lagers. The wort is moved to a large tank called a “primary fermenter” and then the yeast is pitched into the cooled wort and the primary fermentation process commences. Primary fermentation will proceed for a week or more for ales and three to five weeks (or longer) for some lagers. During this time the yeast breaks down most of the sugars converting it to CO2 and ethyl alcohol. When the primary fermentation is complete the beer is filtered (or not) and ultimately transferred to bottles or casks. Some beers may have a small amount of malt or sugar added to allow it to undergo a secondary fermentation in the bottle, such beers are said to be “bottle conditioned.”

The Weyerbacher’s taste mirrors the aroma, earth, oak, wine like grapes, strong alcohol, and some bitter hop notes…This beer style, the “Imperial Stout” has a rich and storied past. It is said that Peter the Great, Tsar or Russia fell in love with the British bitter and dark beers during his visits to the British Isles. He insisted on having this beer brought to the Imperial Court.” The aptly named A. Le. Coq (a Belgian) was appointed purveyor to the Tsars and this Stout was brewed with extra hops and a high alcohol content to enable it to survive the sea voyage from England across the North Sea, through the Baltic to St. Petersburg and the ensuing overland journey to Moscow. This interpretation by our friends in Easton, Pennsylvania may just be very much like the original. Down to the time spent on oak…today this style survives in the Baltic Porters of Carnegie (Sweden) and Synebrichoff (Finland) as well as or own local artisan brewer Heavyweight, in Ocean Township. For me, a student of history, Heavyweight’s Perkuno’s Hammer recalls the days of the Romanov dynasty … Elegant Waltzes… Hussar Pelisses swirl to the music of Tchaikovsky, Rimsky-Korsakov and Borodin, a delicately carved, Ancient, Volga Sturgeon cooked to perfection and mountains of Caspian Sea Caviar accompanied by frozen Vodka and the rich dark beer brought all the way from the “Thames Pool”… by a Belgian whose name began with three letters… A. Le.

Now as promised I have received some kind e-mail and some suggestions for recipes/food pairings and places to enjoy a good glass of beer, or just some beer nostalgia. Here are a few for you to enjoy. Thank you all and keep those e-mails coming.

Virginia wrote:

good show....have loved beer 4 many a year....must drink less ,but can still enjoy folklore, aroma, small sips, and fun just knowing....live out west lots of micro breweries.....will b good to see what east can offer...will visit as many as i can ....spent time in Keansburg at Old Heidelberg...like tap beer best....thanks 4 the column....

John wrote:

“started my working years as a chemist at P. Ballentine and Sons, Newark, NJ. I was fresh out of the Army in March of 1953. I spent 13 years there and your details on the brewing process brought back a great many memories. Along with the regular light beers, they also brewed India Pale Ale, which aged on a bed of hops for one year, and Burton Ale which was not sold, but given as Christmas gifts to friends of the owners, the Badenhausen family”.

Thank you for a great column every week in the Herald.

(John, you can still get Ballentine Pale Ale here in the Garden State. Will pick some up for review in a future column)

Patrick Wrote:

“Forget wine with cheese, drink beer. Here's a combo I just learned - Stilton cheese on a cracker, I chose a water cracker. Top it with this mix of dried fruit - cranberries (craisans), apricots, and mangoes chopped into tiny little bits. mix in a bowl with some chopped walnuts and then drizzle with honey. (I'm sure you could experiment with the fruit) The Stilton cheese is a very strong type of blue veined cheese; the sweetness in the above mix compliments it excellently.

Drink with a nice Weiss beer dressed with a slice of lemon, I drink Franziskaner.”

The Brewer's Art

2005-05-19T21:01:00.000-04:00

The brewing process is deceptively simple and straight forward. Beer generally has four simple ingredients: Water, Cereal Grains, Yeast and Hops. Subtle differences in each ingredient, as well as the timing of the brewing process can result in wide variations in flavor.

Water is the easiest and least complex ingredient. Despite the claims of certain brewers it generally adds little to the beer. Whether it is the “Artesian” water used in Olympia Beer, or the Rocky Mountain Spring Water used in Coors. The simple fact is that most beers today use sterilized and filtered water. Certain styles of beer use mineral additives to soften the water and change the profile of the beer. The beers Burton on Trent are often noted for their soft-water tang. These are the exception and not the rule.

Cereal grains are the “guts” of the beer. Aside from being the source of the fermentable sugar the grains impart color, body, head retention and taste. The grain of choice is two-row barley but just about any grain imaginable can and is used, as are syrups and various sugars. Most craft brews use only barley. Most of the Major Brewers use some barley, but also corn, rice, and processed extracts and sugars. These non-barley grains and syrups are called “adjuncts”. To talk about each type of grain and what it contributes to a brew is however way too complicated for most people. I will give you a link at the end of the article where you explore each such ingredient in great detail. For the rest of the article we will talk exclusively about “All- Malt” brews.

What is all this talk about “Malts” and “Malted Barley?” Barley, while fermentable without malting is too starchy. You can brew with it but the resulting brew will taste “grainy” and will contain lots of un-fermentable starch. To convert the starch into something fermentable you need to malt it. The dried grain is steeped in water to induce germination and then kilned to convert the starches into sugars and other soluble substances. The majority of malt used in beer is kilned to a light color, and if used alone will result in a paler beer.

Now, a word or two about beers “color.” As mentioned above a beer gets its color from the malt. The “grain bill” or the amount and proportions of grain used in a beer is typically composed of a base of pale malted barley with other styles of malt added to give the beer a deeper color and impart some flavoring.. The amount of toasting the malted barley receives increases the darkness of the malt and consequently of the beer. Colors ranging from light amber, through chestnut brown to nearly black (think Guinness.) I am sure you have heard this old saw “Oh I don’t like dark beers they are too heavy.” People see dark; they assume “Heavy.” In fact the color and the “body” of a brew are not related. Guinness “Pub Draught” in the can or bottle is lighter in body (and carbohydrates) than most of the pale yellow, fizzy beers that the major brewers sell. A small portion of dark roasted malt gives Guinness (http://www.guinness.com ) its distinctive dark color, and imparts a roasted coffee taste as well. Interestingly the dark roasted malt is largely un-fermentable so it adds little beyond color and taste. The “heft” found in some beers come from the amount of grain used and not it’s color. In fact the darker the grain the less fermentable material it retains. As counterpoints consider Belgian Trippel Ales such as Duvel (http://www.duvel.be) which despite the pale color is a relatively hefty beer in terms of the amount grains used.

Hops? Specifically, Humulus Lupulus are the flowering cones of a perennial vine. Hops are a member of the hemp family and thus a cousin of the cannabis plant (sorry no THC in this stuff). Hops typically thrive in climates similar to the ones that grapes do. Hop plants are dioecious, meaning the males and females flower on separate plants -- and the female cones are used in the brewing process. Hops are a natural preservative and were first used to ward-off spoilage. They also impart a pleasant dryness or bitterness to beer to balance out the sweet malts. Ever so versatile they also lend a hand in head retention, help to clear the beer (acting as a natural filter) and add a pleasant aroma.

There are many varieties of hops, each with unique characteristics. Some are used for bittering and others for their aroma. The “Noble Hops” of which Jim Koch. brewer of Sam Adams ( http://www.samadams.com ), speaks are the hops originally used in German and Czech Beers. The Noble Hops include three main cultivars, the Saaz variety for bittering, the Tettang variety for aroma and the Hallertau variety for a little of both. In American craft brews Oregon and California grown hops play a major role. The Cascade variety imparts a herbal aroma and a citrus bitterness to beers and is a key ingredient in many West Coast Craft beers such as Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (http://www.sierra-nevada.com ).

The fourth ingredient in beer is the catalyst of the brewing process…(cue the grey haired monotone guy in a lab coat …) “Yeast. Yeast is a single-celled microorganisms that reproduces by budding. It is biologically classified as fungi and is responsible for converting fermentable sugars into alcohol and other byproducts. There are literally hundreds of varieties and strains of yeast. In the past, there were two types of beer yeast: ale yeast (the "top-fermenting" type, Saccharomyces cerevisiae) and lager yeast (the "bottom-fermenting" type, Saccharomyces uvarum, formerly known as Saccharomyces carlsbergensis). Today, as a result of recent reclassification of Saccharomyces species, both ale and lager yeast strains are considered to be members of S. cerevisiae. (Cue shaggy haired surfer) “Whoa too much information dude.”

For now just know this: The variety of yeast used effects the beers flavor greatly. If you care to experiment just compare a German unfiltered wheat beer, such as Weihenstephaner Hefeweisbeer where the yeast is among the predominant flavors to a filtered Wheat Beer such as WeihenstephanerKrystall. http://www.brauerei-weihenstephan.de. Gee, Beer Dude why did you just spend all that time writing about malted barley and wrap up your discussion with a wheat beer? Sit down, or I won’t give you any homework…and that means no beer for you.

All the beers mentioned in this article (along with at least 580 other varieties) are available at the Spirits Unlimited on Newman Springs Road in Red Bank My main sources for this Article were Michael Jackson’s The New World Guide to Beer (http://www.beerhunter.com/) and the Beer 101 Section of Beer Advocate.com (http://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/101/)

Beer Glasses

2005-05-19T20:38:00.000-04:00

What is the best glass to drink beer from? There is no simple short answer. You want a glass that will present the beer at its best, showcase its appearance, concentrate it’s aromas and allow you to experience its flavors. Below I have provided images and descriptions of some of the many styles of glass that are available. I have also listed some of the advantages associated with each style of glass and provided some suggestions on what beers to fill them with. Special thanks for the format and the images should be directed to BeerAdvocate.com. The prose and the beer choices are however my own and I trust they will inspire you to broaden your beer horizons. Regardless of the type of beer, always drink a beer from a glass and not from a can or bottle. To fully enjoy the product as the brewer intended it you must see it and smell it. This applies to the cheapest Macro Brew and the priciest Trappist Ale.

Flute Glass

Certain types of beer, notably Fruit Lambics such as Lindeman’s Kriek and Lindeman’s Framboise are best showcased in a champagne type flute. Long and narrow glasses ensure that carbonation doesn't dissipate too quickly and showcase this styles lively carbonation and sparkling color (a bright pink in the case of the Kriek). An added benefit is that the shape induces a beer to give off its carbonation at a steady rate for a more intense aroma.

Goblet (or Chalice)

Many of the stronger Belgian and Trappist styles such as Chimay Grand Cru are best enjoyed from a Goblet or a heavy and thick walled Chalice. Some glasses of this style have an etched design at the bottom of the glass designed to maintain a beers head. The etching attracts CO2 and creates a steady stream of bubbles that thereby induces longer head retention. If left to its own devices for a time, the shape of the etching will be mirror imaged in the dense foam of the beers head. The Goblet and Chalice are both wide-mouthed permitting deep sips of the flavorful and aromatic brews within.

Mug (or Seidel, Stein)

Mugs are fun, easy to drink out of and often hold plenty of beer. Mugs are more about fun than elegance, though I have some Tiffany Mugs that are a bit of both. To me, the best mugs are clear glass and allow the drinker to visually enjoy the brew as well as go a long time between refills. Mugs favor so-called “session beers”. The beers of the times when you’re having more than just one … like that Oktoberfest Party.

Paulaner Oktober Fest is a great mug beer, as is Harpoon’s October Fest and the beers of Climaax Brewing in Roselle Park, New Jersey.

Pilsner Glass (or Pokal)

A tall, slender and tapered glass, typically very narrow at the base, sometimes having a shot stem. This type of glass showcases the active carbonation and pale malt colors of a Pilsner styled beer while the shape also works with the carbonation in maintaining the beers head. A Pokal is a European Pilsner styled glass with a stem. Both glass types, like the flute, enhance the prolonged release of the aroma within the beer enhancing the drinking experience, which in the case of a Pilsner can be very delicate. My Grandfathers favorite glasses were his Rheingold Pilsners. When it comes to Pilsners one of the best is out there is Victory Brewing’s Prima Pils.

Pint Glass (or Becker, Nonic, Tumbler)

Near cylindrical, with a slightly tapered base and a wide-mouth. When an Englishman goes out for a “jar or two with his mates” this is the preferred style. This is my facvorite glass for casual drinking. There are three basic types of pint glass: The heavy “Libby” pint glasses so common in brew pub bars today. Also known as a “Shaker Tumbler” or Mixing Glass to us old geezers. The traditional ”Nonic” British Pint (jar) that has a slight ridge towards the top (see image) this ridge acts as a grip of sorts. Lastly, the Becker (becher, or Willibecher) which is the German equivalent, tapering at the bottom and less so at the top, bowed out slightly in the middle. Pint glasses are easy to drink out of and generally more stable than the stemmed glassware styles. Pint Glasses are more elegant than a mug and in my mind more comfortable to hold over a long period of time. One possible downside is that the beer warms up faster as you have no handle to keep your hand insulated from the glass proper. This is easily remedied by drinking faster. As pints they are typically clear glass you can visually enjoy your beer. Most ales and lagers do well in a pint glass. I prefer the thinner glassed Nonic and Becher styles to the heavy Libby pints. Though I keep all three types on hand.

Snifter

Not just for Brandy, these wide-bowled short stemmed glasses with their tapered mouths are perfect for capturing the aromas of strong ales as they warm. Sizes vary, but they should provide enough room to swirl and agitate the brew and release the aroma. Try using a snifter with an Eisbock such as Aventinus or EKU 28, a Barley wine such as Heavyweight’s “Old Salty”, Brooklyn Brewing’ s “Monster” and Victory’s “Old Horizontal” or some of the stronger Belgian offerings such as Rochefort 10.

Stange (Slender Cylinder)

This style is a hard to come by traditional German glass. Stange translates in English as "stick" and these delicate, slender cylinders are used to serve more delicate beers. An acceptable substitute for a stange is a Tom Collins glass. This is the glass used for a “Alt” style ales such as or Uerirge Alt or Long Trail Ale (Long Trail Brewing, Vermont). This style glass also favors a Kolsch style summer beer such as Reissdorf or Gaffel. Most are rather small (.2 liter) and very thin walled. A cool glass of Kolsch on a hot evening in Atlantic Highlands is a sublime experience.

Tulip

A stemmed glass, the top of the glass pushes out a bit to form a lip in order to capture the head and the body is bulbous. Duvel’s signature glass is an oversized tulip. This style favors the more complex brews that have a complex bouquet but the flared top also supports a vigorous head which is not necessarily something you want in a brandy-style snifter. Some “Belgian” Scotch Ales are often served in a "thistle glass," which is a modified tulip glass that roughly resembles Scotland's national flower. Though in frugal Scotland itself such finery is rarely seen, the traditional Nonic pint is what is most often encountered there. Try Sam Adams Scotch Ale if you can find it from such a glass. The peat smoked malt makes for a delightful if someone different aroma.

Weizen Glass

On a sweltering day In Atlantic Highlands nothing beats a tall glass brimming with Weizenbier (wheat beer) or Weizenbock in an tall shapely Weizen Glass. These glasses, with their thin walls and softly curvaceous length, showcase the beer's hazy sunshine color and provides accommodation (temporarily)for a half liter of fragrant (banana and cloves), refreshing ale and also allows sufficient space to contain the dense, creamy head intrinsic to the lighter wheat beers. Most glasses are over 0.5L in size, with slight variations in shape. Oh and pass on the lemon garnish if offered, the oils in the lemon zest will kill the head. At home, be certain to rinse the glass with cool water right before you pour as this will keep the head manageable. My picks? Anything Ramstein (High Point Brewing, Butler NJ).

Where Do I get Glassware?

When it comes to Brewery Logo Glasses, I get mine online at the Global Beer Network and Johns Grocery in Iowa or locally at Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank or other local beer stores as part of Holiday Gift sets. Garage Sales also are a good source. Generic glasses are available at Crate and Barrel, Pier One Imports and Williams and Sonoma. And there is always e-bay…

How do I care for my cherished beer glasses?

Hand-wash all glasses in hot water. Do not put them in an automatic dishwasher as most dishwashers will leave a residue, which may affect the head retention as well as the flavor and aroma. Use a mild dishwashing soap, and if you are really anal retentive have a separate sponge for your glassware so there is not cross contamination from greasy food particles on a used sponge. Let them air dry, do not hand dry because the towel may leave dust particles which will affect the head retention. Caring for you glassware in this manner will also protect gold or silver- rimmed glasses and glasses with silk-screened brewery logos.

Cheers and happy hunting.

Think global and drink local. Next time we will discuss the proper pour and perhaps I may do a field trip or something.

The Perfect Pour

2005-05-19T20:35:00.000-04:00

On Monday the Beer Man played Golf in upstate New York. It was a glorious day and all had a great time. No persons or animals were injured or maimed in the process. No cheap, yellow, watery beer was consumed within his field of vision. A glorious day indeed! The Golf occupied the better part of his day, but the true highlight was the Beer Man’s short visit to Half Time in Poughkeepsie, New York www.halftimebeverage.com .

For a beer aficionado Half Time is the closest that you will come to Beer Nirvana. They advertise having over 1000 different beers and they just might have that many, and then some. I had only about 30 minutes to browse and managed to score some great beers to try. I will share my finds with you in a future column, but suffice to say they represent an eclectic mix. I picked out styles ranging from German Altbier to Oak Aged California Imperial Pale Ale. At Half Time you are encouraged to break six-packs and mix and match. Beer Man did so gladly. So much quality beer choose from, so little time to make the choices (loud audible sigh).

As promised last week, let’s take a brief moment to talk about properly pouring a beer. We talked about Glassware in the last column. Assuming you have the appropriate glass at hand, make sure it is clean. (Hot water, clean sponge, dish soap, rinsed carefully then air dried and never chilled.) Why so clean? Hygiene considerations aside a dirty glass, containing traces of oils, dirt or residue from a previous beer, may inhibit head creation and destroy or alter the beer’s flavor. Why not chill the glass? In most cases beer is best cool, but not too cold. A chilled glass will inhibit your ability to taste the beer. Some beers require more or less chilling to properly express their charms. Do your homework, read the instructions on the brewers packaging or go to http://www.beeradvocate.com/ for serving suggestions including the type of glass that the beer requires.

To start the pour, hold your glass at a 45° angle.

Pour the beer, targeting the middle of the slope of the glass. If the head does not start to form on its own don't be afraid to add some air by increasing the distance between the bottle and the glass as you pour.

At the halfway point bring the glass vertical and continue to pour in the middle of the glass. This will induce the perfect foam head.

Having a head on a beer is an essential part of a proper pour. Head formation releases the beer’s aroma and adds to the visual presentation. Again you may also want to gradually add distance between the bottle and glass as you pour, to coax the beer into raising a good head. Experts agree that an ideal head should be an inch to an inch and a half (two fingers). Each beer is different so some experimentation is in order here.

Particular care must be exercised when pouring some bottle-conditioned beers. Such beers may have a considerable amount of yeast sediment in the bottle. With such brews you may wish to watch closely as you pour. Holding the bottle to the light as you pour is helpful. If you don't like yeast in your beer you can stop pouring when you see the sediment coming into the neck of the bottle. Now regarding the sediment in bottle-conditioned beers, first and foremost it is a good thing. In the case of some beers the yeast is an integral pert of the presentation. For example in the case of the Belgian White Beer or the German Hefe-Weizen the yeast flavor is part of the beers character and you actually may wish to interrupt your pour and swirl the last inch or so of the beer around the base of the bottle to loosen as much of the sediment as possible. This last yeasty solution is then poured into the glass. The beer will appear cloudy and have a rich fruity aroma.

After some experimentation you will know exactly what the inclusion of yeast does to alter the aroma, the clarity and the taste of each beer you like. You may decide you like certain beers better with or without yeast, regardless of style. Brewers yeast is also high in vitamin B-12 and many other nutrients.

Thank you all for your kind e-mails and suggestions. Should any reader have questions about this column or previous columns drop me a line.

Next time … A Beer Man road trip perhaps?

Until then think global and drink local.

The Ales of Spring

2005-05-19T20:32:00.000-04:00

Spring is here and this beer drinker’s thoughts turn to Kölsch and Altbier…
In the world of beer, when one thinks of German brews the traditional Pale Lagers, Bocks and Weizenbier come to mind first. Kölsch and Altbier are often overlooked or well nigh forgotten. This is truly a loss as these delicate styles are both refreshing and tasty. Unlike most German brews which are lagers, Kölsch, a style associated with the city of Köln (Cologne) and Altbier (Düsseldorf) are ales.
True Kölsch is brewed within the city limits of Köln by one of fifteen or so designated breweries. You can usually find two of these beers Gaffel and Reissdorf locally. Both are tasty, well made and run about eight dollars a six, both are also available in a 22 ounce single bottle for about $2.50. But if you choose to try this style I encourage you to include in your exploration some American craft brews. Traditionally a spring seasonal offering, Kölsch style brews are hitting the shelves as I type. Consider picking up some Harpoon Summer Beer or Geary’s Summer Ale as a starting point. American Blonde Ale is a style that has a profile similar to Kölsch. Consider trying Hunterdon Brewing’s ( http://www.hunterdonbrewing.com//) Jersey Gold as an example of the Blonde Ale style.
I really enjoy sipping a glass of Kölsch on a warm spring evening from a delicate cylindrical glass (or “Stange”). The typical Kölsch pours into your glass a pale gold with a moderate sized white head. The aroma of this style is typically slightly fruity (malt and ale yeast) with some floral hop notes. The taste will be initially sweet/biscuit malt with some drying hops as the brew reaches the back of the tongue and the throat. But it will be overall a balanced brew. Kölsch has a palate that is softer, with more malt than hops, though not as malty as a Bock, nor quite as dry as a typical Pilsner.
Düsseldorf’s Altbier is another favorite style of mine. This is not a springtime beer but is light enough in body for year round enjoyment. There are not many imported Altbiers available locally. One that I consistently see is Uerige (http://www.uerige.de//). A touch pricey in its swing-top bottle ($3.50 for 11.2 ounces) Uerige is a rather spicy and dry example of the style. But despair not as new to the shelves in our area is Long Trail Brewing’s (http://longtrail.com//) Long Trail Ale and Double Bag Ale, both are excellent American recreations of this unique style of brew. A somewhat eclectic and potent local example is Heavyweight Brewing’s ( http://heavyweight-brewing.com//) Stickenjab Alt.
Altbier will typically pour out light brown to dark copper in color with a generous white head. It will generally feature a balance of fruity yeast, sweet/toasted malt and hops in the aroma with some biscuit notes in most. The taste will range from sweet caramel to mild biscuit/toasted malt with a dry finish. This dry finish is especially pronounced in the Uerige and Heavyweight brews.
Until next time, think global and drink local.

Trappist Ales

2005-05-19T20:31:00.000-04:00

TRAPPIST BEERS
The BeerMan would like to dedicate this column to Father Bob, Pastor of Saint Agnes Roman Catholic Church here in Atlantic Highlands.
Firstly, what is a Trappist Beer? Trappist beer is brewed by Trappist monks, specifically members of the Cistercian Order. Trappist is also a licensed term, and currently only six breweries in the world may legally produce Trappist beers. All six of them are Belgian. To use the name and the "Authentic Trappist Product" logo, the rules of the International Trappist Association must be observed:
The product must be made within the walls of a Trappist Abbey. The product must be made by or under the supervision of the monastery community. The largest part of the profit must be spent on social work.
The six breweries that are allowed to call their beer "Trappist" are
Chimay Orval Rochefort Westmalle Westvleteren Achelse Kluis, St Benedictus
There is some discussion about “La Trappe /Koningshoeven” beer, brewed in The Netherlands by the Koningshoeven brewery in Tilburg. The beer is no longer brewed within the walls of an abbey, but is licensed to a large Dutch brewery (Bavaria). They call it Trappist beer, but it isn't in the true meaning of the word. Neither are beers like the Belgian 'Abbaye Leffe', which is licensed to Interbrew, one of the biggest breweries in the world. These beers don't carry the official authentic Trappist logo.
In addition to all the other good works that the Church of Rome performs it has played a pivotal role in the history of brewing in the Western Hemisphere. Let’s step back in time to when the Church was younger, when the Goths, Visigoths, and Vandals ran roughshod over the waning Roman Empire. It was during this time that many Monastic Orders had their start, including the Benedictines. When not saving the literary treasures of the Western World from the clutches of the Barbarian Hordes, the Benedictine Monks needed sustenance to fortify them for hours spent in prayer, and for this they looked to beer. Beer consumption, as it was a liquid, did not break the fasting required by Lenten vows. Monastery beers were therefore rich nourishing brews that required extraordinary amounts of malt in the making. In 1098 the Cistercian order was splintered off the Benedictine Order. While they left some of the “worldliness” of the Benedictines behind, they retained the tradition of brewing in their monasteries, and as noted above, still adhere to this tradition. For a more detailed history of the Cistercians open this link to the Catholic Encyclopedia and explore this rich and colorful site http://www.newadvent.org/cathen
The Trappist Ales are as rich in taste as they are in History. I am pleased to say that I have sampled many of these beers and found them, without exception, to be of superior quality and taste. As you explore the Trappist Ales you should be aware of some differences between them and the more common beer styles: They tend to have prices that one would expect to see in the wine aisles. They are all bottle conditioned and can be laid down and aged like wine. They are not necessarily what most would call “quenching” brews. Don’t come home from a day at the beach and crack open a Trappist to sooth your parched throat. These are the beers to savor with a book, some good company or that favorite Gregorian Chant CD.
Many Trappist Ales can be found in our local stores. I have listed below, grouped by Abbey, the beers that each Abbey brews along a brief description (style, alcohol by volume and a rough estimate of the price).
Chimay http://www.chimay.be/ The Abbey at Scourmont brews four beers only three of which are available in the US. They are easily differentiated by the color of the cap on the bottle. The strongest brew is the Grand Reserve’ (Blue Cap), weighing in at 9% alcohol, is a Belgian Strong Ale. They also brew a Dubbel (Red Cap) and a Trippel (White Cap) at 7% and 8% respectively. You can find all three in 11.2 ounce bottles for 2 to 3 dollars each bottle or in Cork and Caged 750 ml. bottles for 7 to 10 dollars each. These are heavily sedimented beers that need to be poured with care to avoid disturbing the sediment. See my earlier article on the “Perfect Pour’ for more details. All Trappist beers are best enjoyed from a Chalice or Goblet style glass.
Orval http://www.orval.be/ This Abbey brewery operates on the philosophy of: do one thing, and do it well. They brew one beer, a Belgian Pale Ale, and bottle it in a Skittle Pin shaped bottle. Drunk from a chalice this hazy orange brew is elegant and tasty. The recipe is consistent with Abbey records dating back to the 1100’s. Expect to pay 3-4 dollars for an 11.2 ounce bottle.
Rochefort http://users.pandora.be/gerritvdb/rochefort/English/RochefortIndex.htm the monks at the Abbey de Notre Dame de Saint Remy brew three beers: Two Strong Dark Ales and a Quadrupel. They are numbered 6, 8 and 10 for ease of identification. The Number equates to Degrees Plato (specific gravity) higher gravity generally equates to stronger ale. Price wise expect to pay in the 4-6 dollar range for a bottle; the “10” will be a little pricier than the others.
Westmalle http://www.trappistwestmalle.be/ Two beers come from the Monks at Westmalle: a Dubbel, dark brown label, 7% and a Trippel, tan label 9.5%. Expect to pay in the 4 dollar range for a 11.2 ounce bottle. They also brew a Pale Ale but it does not reach these shores with any frequency.
Westvleteren http://www.sintsixtus.be/ The rarest of the abbey beers. The monks at Saint Sixtus do not actively pursue the distribution of their beer around the world. Somehow it gets here, a fortunate few, those willing to plunk down 6-12 dollars for a small bottle, can enjoy one of these tasty and nourishing beers. The styles this Abbey brew include two Belgian Pale Ales distinguished by their red and green caps with about 6% alcohol by volume, a Belgian Dubbel, blue cap with the number “8” on it (8% alcohol) and a Quadrupel, yellow cap with the number 12 on it, (10.2% alcohol)l. For many aficionados “Westy 12” is the Holy Grail of beers.
Achelse Kluis, St Benedictus http://www.achelsekluis.myweb.nl/ I have not seen this Abbey’s beer locally but there are three different products available in the US: a Dubbel, a Trippel and a Strong Dark Ale. They have alcohol levels of 8% to 9.5% depending on the style. I have never seen or tried this brand so If you see it locally let me know.
What should I do with the sediment in when pouring my Trappist beer? There is no right answer in my opinion. I suggest you consider the following approach. Pour the beer carefully so as to retain the sediment in the bottle with a small portion of the beer. Taste the beer without the sediment. When you have consumed about half of the brew, add the rest of the beer and the sediment to the glass. This way you can compare the taste with and without. Enjoy!
In my next column will answer a few readers’ questions, and will discuss the Gueze, Lambic and Wit beers of Belgium’s secular brewers.
Until next time, think global and drink local.

A little about me...and beer

2005-04-13T19:29:00.000-04:00

I am someone that really enjoys good beer. Not macro-brewer overproduced fizzy yellow beer, but good complex, flavorful beer.

After nine years living on the great plains, nearly two years ago my family and I pulled up stakes in Overland Park, Kansas so that I could take a position in Manhattan. The city is so different since I last worked there in the 80's. Guards, ID checks, barricades, police and soldiers at every turn. Al was not grim however I have a nice office with a view of the East River and the FDR drive... a pleasant surprise. The Couch, easy chairs and coffee table are very nice. The solid brass table lamps and desk lamps are also nice. The three days supply of food and water and NBC mask were a bit disturbing however.

In the Midwest you could get great beer. The local beer of Kansas City, Boulevard was quite nice. They made a great pale ale and a tasty porter. The local beer stores were well stocked. Lukas Liquors Superstore had hundreds of different brews from all points of the Compass. Colorado, Texas, California, Oregon, Illinois, New York and around the globe...Tusker from Kenya to Tooths from Australia. But the daimond in the rough for the beer afficianado was 20 minutes away in Missouri the funky little place with a quaint name, Gomer's. Yes, that was the name. They had the widest selection of micro brews and imports I had ever seen. I was in beer heaven. The place was tiny and packed to the gills with beers from around the world. From Jerobams of Belgian Ale to tiny cans of Sapporo Beer (3-4 oz.)that were aimed at the golfing crowd.

There were nearly a Dozen brew pubs in the metro area as well. Some were better than others.

That is for tommorrow however.