Do America's Craft Brewers Get It?

I received an interesting e-mail from the author of several books on beer and brewing in response to my last column. I want to thank the writer for his insight and for providing me with the inspiration for this week’s column. The writer’s position is that not only do the large brewing establishments not “get it” the, craft brewing industry does not quite “get it” either. On reflection, I think he raises some excellent points and I am inclined to agree with many of them. The main thrust of his argument is that the craft brewers and their fans should spend less time focusing on their criticism of the big three and their products and more time trying to expand the market share of craft beer. He provided an excellent analogy to the domestic wine industry.

As many of you will recall in the 1970’s and 80’s it was not uncommon to overhear many people ordering a carafe of “red” or “white.” Today, when a specific bottle from a wine list is not being ordered, we generally hear a varietals name such as Merlot, Burgundy, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio etc. The wine industry has educated the public such that today most of us know that there are many varieties of wine within each color grouping. How do craft brewers intend to get to the point where the discerning beer drinker knows that there is a big difference between an India Pale Ale and a Pilsner? That not all dark beers are heavy and bitter? How do craft brewers get the public to order by style and not by brand? The answer, of course, is by educating your consumers.

My two cents. As with the domestic wine industry the domestic craft brewing industry is made up of a disparate range of small to medium and large brewers. Consider the New Jersey Scene: On one end of the spectrum you have local brew-pubs like Basil T’s in Red Bank that do not bottle their beer, though you can buy a growler and take some home, you have niche type small batch brewers like Heavyweight in Ocean Township, and then there are the larger craft brewers that distribute in several states like River Horse in Lambertville and Flying Fish in Cherry Hill. What these folks all need is a common ad campaign. Much like the ad campaigns of the dairy farmers and the National Cattleman’s Beef Association. Perhaps they need to coin a snappy phrase like: “Got Milk?” or “Beef, Its Whats for Dinner.” A smart, yet down to earth advertising campaign aimed at promoting the history and culture of American brewing and the virtues of each of the different varieties of ales and lagers. Consider showcasing the pairing of craft beer and fine dining. Sure it’s tough to beat a glass of Pilsner and a slice of Pepperoni Pizza, but how about a Belgian White with a plate of Mussels? Pairing a glass of Dry Stout with a dozen oysters? The combination of Chicken Sate’ and American Pale Ale?

What are your thoughts? How would you get folks to drink better beer? How would you convince the big three that there is value in brewing a more flavorful beer?

Do America's Big Breweries Get "It"?

Anyone that spends more than a few moments at a local Liquor Store will have noticed the proliferation of Craft Brewed Beers that are now available. Some are domestic, some are imported. Package styles range from the functional to the artistic and everywhere in between. Notwithstanding this development the vast majority of floor and shelf space is devoted to the American Macro Beers and Malternatives like Tequiza and Hard Lemonades... all products of the nefarious BMC (BudMillerCoors). I am always amused when a well dressed man or woman saunters into the store and lingers over the latest Californian, Austrailan or Chilean Wines before selecting the latest "hot pick", then quickly wheels over to the beer section and without pause grabs a 24 Pack of BMC and trundles off to the register thence to the Mercedes for the ride home? What are these folks thinking? Beer has as rich a heritage as wine does. There are as many if not more varieties of beer than wine and frequently beer pairs better with what is on the menu.

American brewing has a rich heritage and has been part of the backdrop for every phase of our nation's history. Washington, Adams and Jefferson were all brewers. The Immigrant brewers like Anheuser Busch started out by brewing flavorful and substantial brews. How did we get to the point we are at today? When most beer drinkers think "American Beer" is synonomous with thin, watery, fizzy, yellow beer that is sold by scantily clad ladies barely old enough to drink themselves?

But there is hope on the horizon. A faint glimmer of light is emanating from the wilds of Saint Louis, Milwaukee and Denver. Beer with flavor. Miller is touting its 1855 Celebration Lager, a macro with taste perhaps? Coors has become increasing bold with its "Winterfest" Amber Seasonal as well as it's "Blue Moon" and "Killian's" Brands. The most encouraging trend however is from no less than the Great Satan of Brewing, the megalithic Anheuser Busch. AB have always dabbled with specialty beers for example, there is Ziegenbock, available only in TX to compete with the Local specialty "Shiner Bock". There are the Michelob Specialty Lagers such as "Amberbock" and "Honey Lager" that are now widely available in bottle or draft. Lastly, in it's latest move toward flavor over quantity ... Anheuser Busch has offered up for public sale its Brewmasters Private Reserve and Michelob's Celebrate. These are clearly craft brewed products and aimed at both the craft brew drinker as well as those that shop by brand. Wheteher you care for these products or not, you have to be pleased by the current trend toward flavorful, full bodied brews over the bland "Mass Quantities" that Beldar the Conehead consumed with fried chicken embryos. At 8.5% and 10% ABV respectively these are serious brews. I have yet to try either brew but I will and I have high hopes. look for a review in a future column.

Christmas Gift sets are in the stores. Now is the time to get the beer drinkers in your life some new brews and the brewerania to match.

How To Be A Great Thanksgiving Guest

The Thanksgiving Holiday is upon us, some of you will ask your hosts what to bring to supplement the repast. Will you be that boring person that shows up with a bottle of inexpensive vino? “Oh Yellowtail how lovely” … Just say no to Pinot! Those cognoscenti that have been reading this column regularly will be armed with the information you need to be that special guest that will be welcomed and remembered for that wonderful selection of beer that you arrived with!

That is the ticket lads and lassies a laundry tub sized assortment of some quality craft-brewed beer! It will liven up the festivities, tantalize the taste buds and lubricate the arid repast that is Roasted Turkey, Dressing and Mashed Potatoes. You can pique your dinner companion’s curiosity and be the hero of the day when you produce a selection of intriguing beers whilst effortlessly discussing some distinct features of each style. Add some personal anecdotes, some brewing history and you will be the life of the party. As an aside, humbly add some pointers on what the discerning taster should expect. No more boring talk of Finite Risk Transfer, Catastrophe Bonds and Eliot Spitzer. Beer shall set you free.

Here are my suggestions, by course:

Aperitif To get the digestive juices flowing, but without overwhelming the taste buds too early might I suggest a nice Pilsner? Consider these choices:

Brooklyn Lager - Brooklyn Brewing
Pennant Pilsner - Brooklyn Brewing
Victory Prima Pils – Victory Brewing

Appetizers/Snacks Consider a Pale Ale here, the spicy hop characteristic of this style pairs nicely with salads, cheeses, fruits, nuts and that new traditional favorite - Spicy chicken wings. These are some picks:

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale – Sierra Nevada Brewing
Dales Pale Ale – Oskar Blues Brewing
Dogfish Head 60 Minute Pale Ale - Dogfish Head Brewery

Main Course
Consider strong Belgian-style ales. Their higher alcohol percentage pairs nicely with the seasonal comfort food:

Allagash Grand Cru – Allagash Brewing
Lunacy - Heavyweight Brewing
Rare Vos – Brewery Ommegang

Dessert

Rich Stouts and Porters pair nicely with Pecan Pie, Shoo Fly Pie, Sweet Potato Pie and other sweets including chocolate. My dessert picks are:

Black Chocolate Stout –Brooklyn Brewing
Storm King Stout – Victory Brewing
Perkuno’s Hammer (Baltic Porter) – Heavyweight Brewing
Digestive (after dinner)

It’s now time to relax, sit back and let that meal fully digest. No doubt you are well and fully bloated at this point, time to sip coffee and take a TUMS?? No way! Get off your butt and grab something smooth, rich and numbing. Reach for the Strong Old Ales and Barleywine Ales. A rich, complex, malty and alcoholic beer will settle the stomach, rectify the humors and is ideally suited for sipping. Some excellent choices include:

Monster Barleywine – Brooklyn Brewing
Bigfoot Barley Wine Style Ale – Sierra Nevada Brewing
Old Horizontal – Victory Brewing
Holidale – Berkshire Brewing Company

Happy Thanksgiving!