"Fizzy Yellow Beer is for Wussies" So reads the signature glass for Stone Brewing Company’s Arrogant Bastard Ale. The somewhat cheeky advertising campaign employed by Stone is mostly about fun and serves to down play the quality and dedication to the brewer’s art that is apparent from the first sip of one of this brewer’s products. I have yet to see Stone’s beers for sale here in the Garden State, but I have found them all in Chinatown.
In the tradition of the bootleggers of old, I have clandestinely imported them to our little paradise on the Raritan Bay. That bucolic enclave of Victorian charm, the place we all call home, our own little Mayberry on the Bay … a town that once was a popular haven for Bootleggers … Atlantic Highlands.
My fall from grace began last Tuesday. Surreptitiously, under the guise of a healthy lunchtime walk, I exited the office onto Maiden Lane thence to Water Street. Continuing North on Water, under the Brooklyn Bridge, past One Police Plaza, toward Mott Street and the darkened heart of Chinatown. Weaving my way through the crowds and slipping past the herbal remedies and fresh sardines I continued north. My round eyes and trench coat marking me as an outsider…but not a tourist. Across a sea of humanity I strode. Just past the Lighting District via Bowery; I sprinted across Delancey Street. On a seedy side street in the shadow of the Williamsburg Bridge I met my contact. The venue was small, hidden amongst stainless steel fabricators and restaurant supply houses, my quarry hid in plain sight.
The entrance was forbidding, a steel roll up door - its perimeter protected by empty kegs - no doubt positioned to deter deliverymen from blocking the driveway. On my right, cold cases filled with all manner of beverages, some alcoholic, some otherwise. On my left, a panel of bullet proof glass that separated me from the cashier. The cashier who eyed me warily as I strode inside, her eyes betrayed no warning of what was to come. I didn’t see it coming, I was blindsided. As my eyes adjusted to the dim interior, I stood thunderstruck. A wall of Belgian imports and American Craft Brews confronted me. Here in this place I thought “how could it be?” Like Indiana Jones I proceeded further inside, then stood there, basking in the glow of hundreds of rare and tasty brews. The thousands of single bottles reflecting pinpricks of fluorescent glare that overwhelmed my senses. This was my idea of a thousand points of light. Vintage Lambics stood cheek by jowl with Baltic Porters. Rauchbier made conversation with Eisbock and Prize Old Ale. “Incredible” I thought, but the best was yet to come.
It was a few moments before I saw them, the … brews of Stone. The Leering Gargoyle proclaimed that I was “not worthy”, but I knew I was. And thus emboldened I finally fell, and fell hard. I grabbed three 22 ounce bottles and after tendering my payment I hastily journeyed back to the Financial District. I walked under the very noses of the occupants of One Police Plaza, the illicit fruits of my labor concealed in a plain brown wrapper.
At 5:20 P.M., after a nervous afternoon, I donned my coat and proceeded to Pier 11. My illicit cargo now concealed within my briefcase beneath the National Law Journal and other trade papers that, if given a chance, could put anyone to sleep in moments.
The ferry arrived and having dutifully, if somewhat nervously, tendered my ticket I took up a seat near the stern…trying at all times to look calm, nonchalant and inconspicuous. I am still not really sure just when I crossed the state line with my contraband and in doing so perfected my crime but somehow the authorities failed to accost me as I made my way down the dock to lose myself in the crowd of commuters heading for home. The angry glare of the Harbor Security Neon seemed to mock me as I strode up First Avenue.
Safely at home, as I removed the contraband from under the false bottom in my brief case I taunted each bottle “I am worthy, I am so damn worthy …”
Wednesday, February 15, 2006
Thursday, February 09, 2006
Beer My Valentine
It’s a bright sunny day in the Big Apple. Three hours at the desk under my belt and it suddenly occurs to me that I owe you all a blog…yesterday! Yikes! Think , think, think…isn’t Valentines Day coming? Of course it is you dolt. Sounds like there might be room for a little on the subject of beer in that holiday, a nice change of pace from racy undergarments that are itchy (and, to be honest, rarely if ever intended for the recipient so much as the giver) or the over priced bobbles that are currently referred to as “Bling”?
Well the origin of Valentines Day is up for debate. Some say it commemorates one of three Roman Martyrs of that name and others say that it was merely the co-opting of a pagan fertility ritual by the Church of Rome. I am not taking sides here, but I will add, that while the Italians make fairly pedestrian beer (ducks as Moretti fans hurl bottles at monitor) The glorious pagans of Northern Europe still make some of the best beers in the world and they have been doing so on a consistent basis since before there was any debate on this topic. If I have to take sides I am all for fertility and good beer.
Chocolates are a very popular gift on this holiday. Consider pairing some rich chocolate with a good beer. Here is where Rich and the good folks at Lawes Environmental will run to the keyboard and e-mail me. I expect a message or two telling me that I am nuts and cannot possibly be serious. But, I am serious, try it you will like it. I am not alone in this idea, as mind numbing as it may seem. A reader in Kansas City wrote me to suggest pairing a rich chocolate dessert with a Dry Irish Stout such as Guinness, Beamish, Dogfish Head Chicory Stout or the Kansas City local, Boulevard Dry Stout. Capital choices all. He extolled the rich coffee and espresso notes in these brews that were heightened by the sweet and rich chocolate. Sound a little like Starbucks Liqueur?
Here’s another anecdote for you. While at a Super Bowl party a hosted by a neighbor who is also a Chef and something of a wine aficionado, I shared a bottle of 2003 North Coast Old Stock Ale (yes I did say 2003). One taste and the Chef went to the kitchen and presented me with a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup to accompany the brew. He felt that the beer in question, a very rich old ale, (11% a.b.v.) with notes of toasted malt and cocoa paired nicely with sweet milk chocolate and peanut butter.
So what to serve with that Valentines day feast. In lieu of champagne before dinner consider a nice Fruit Lambic such as Lindemann’s. Pair the King crab Claws and Filet Mignon with a bracingly crisp Pale Ale or a delicate Pilsner and for the dessert…see above.
Trust me, get her a sixer of something nice and she will love you forever. Well, on second thought, as a rule most women I know don’t really care for beer, so go for the “Bling” lose the racy lingerie. As for the beer, treat yourself to something special. It will take some of the sting out of the bill you got from the local jeweler for that fleeting moment of adoration. “Honey it’s wonderful, its just what I wanted, oh and remember tomorrow is trash-day… don’t forget to empty the one in the upstairs bath…”
Happy Valentines Day.
Well the origin of Valentines Day is up for debate. Some say it commemorates one of three Roman Martyrs of that name and others say that it was merely the co-opting of a pagan fertility ritual by the Church of Rome. I am not taking sides here, but I will add, that while the Italians make fairly pedestrian beer (ducks as Moretti fans hurl bottles at monitor) The glorious pagans of Northern Europe still make some of the best beers in the world and they have been doing so on a consistent basis since before there was any debate on this topic. If I have to take sides I am all for fertility and good beer.
Chocolates are a very popular gift on this holiday. Consider pairing some rich chocolate with a good beer. Here is where Rich and the good folks at Lawes Environmental will run to the keyboard and e-mail me. I expect a message or two telling me that I am nuts and cannot possibly be serious. But, I am serious, try it you will like it. I am not alone in this idea, as mind numbing as it may seem. A reader in Kansas City wrote me to suggest pairing a rich chocolate dessert with a Dry Irish Stout such as Guinness, Beamish, Dogfish Head Chicory Stout or the Kansas City local, Boulevard Dry Stout. Capital choices all. He extolled the rich coffee and espresso notes in these brews that were heightened by the sweet and rich chocolate. Sound a little like Starbucks Liqueur?
Here’s another anecdote for you. While at a Super Bowl party a hosted by a neighbor who is also a Chef and something of a wine aficionado, I shared a bottle of 2003 North Coast Old Stock Ale (yes I did say 2003). One taste and the Chef went to the kitchen and presented me with a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup to accompany the brew. He felt that the beer in question, a very rich old ale, (11% a.b.v.) with notes of toasted malt and cocoa paired nicely with sweet milk chocolate and peanut butter.
So what to serve with that Valentines day feast. In lieu of champagne before dinner consider a nice Fruit Lambic such as Lindemann’s. Pair the King crab Claws and Filet Mignon with a bracingly crisp Pale Ale or a delicate Pilsner and for the dessert…see above.
Trust me, get her a sixer of something nice and she will love you forever. Well, on second thought, as a rule most women I know don’t really care for beer, so go for the “Bling” lose the racy lingerie. As for the beer, treat yourself to something special. It will take some of the sting out of the bill you got from the local jeweler for that fleeting moment of adoration. “Honey it’s wonderful, its just what I wanted, oh and remember tomorrow is trash-day… don’t forget to empty the one in the upstairs bath…”
Happy Valentines Day.
Wednesday, February 01, 2006
Cellaring Beer?
Five O’clock in the morning is an unreasonable time to rise five days a week. Today, Tuesday, January 31, 2006, the grimness of the hour is exacerbated by the wind blowing in off the bay and the persistent cold rain it is delivering to our little bay shore community. A comfortable ride on the Sea Streak Wall Street does nothing to lift the gloom, nor does a cup of home brewed coffee. I know I owe you all another installment and I am still at a loss as to what to write about. I re-read the Ale Street News and no inspiration comes to me. It’s a gray and raw day in lower Manhattan. Wall Street at 6:35 a.m. is a dark and forbidding canyon. The line of the caffeine starved extends out the door of Starbucks; the only establishment open on my route to the office.
As usual, I am the first person on my floor. I turn on the lights, shrug off my trench coat, hang it on the back of my office door and attack the e-mail that arrived over-night. Nothing from Tokyo or London … good. No emergency projects … good. There is that issue in Miami and three meetings scheduled for today, 11:00, 12:30 lunch meeting and the 4:30… not too bad. Pay dirt!
The Dining and Wine section of the New York Times has an article by Eric Asimov on Barley Wines that I somehow missed. (It is dated 1/25/06 if you are interested… you can get it online - free subscription required). The muse strikes. Perhaps a paragraph or two on cellaring beer and we are good till next week.
Cellaring beer? What are you talking about Ed? Beer is best when fresh right? Yes generally that it is true, but there are certain beers that possess unique qualities that permit you to lay them down for extended periods with an eye toward improving them. One style that is a prime candidate for cellaring is the aforementioned Barley Wine. The higher alcohol and hopping levels give this style the fortitude to withstand the rigors of time. The sharp spiciness of the hops will soften and the caramel and toffee notes that come from the huge amount of grain used may become more vinous or port-like. I often buy extra bottles of this seasonal specialty just to set aside for future sampling. In the Times article it is noted that one of the brews sampled was Thomas Hardy’s Ale, both a 2004 vintage and a 1992 (Gasp! A 14 year old beer!). The difference between the vintages is striking. Read the article for more details. It is well worth the trouble to register. There have been past articles in the Times on other beers, including IPAs and Saisons that are also a great read.
What other beers can you Cellar? As a general rule the stronger beer styles such as Doppelbock and Eisbock also the hoppier styles such as Imperial Stout and Double Imperial Pale Ale can be laid down. Likewise, many of the bottle conditioned Belgian beers will benefit from a few years of aging.
How do you cellar a beer? Like wine, beer must be kept in a cool dark place at a constant temperature. A basement closet away from the furnace is a prime candidate. For those with the space, wine chillers can be purchased at most appliance stores for under $200. A temperature range of 50-55 degrees seems to be the ideal temperature for most strong ales; lagers will require slightly cooler temperatures. For longer term storage brewers and experts alike agree that beers should be stored upright not on their sides.
I have only scratched the surface of this topic, consider doing some additional research before cellaring any beers. Often the brewer will make cellaring suggestions right on the packaging.
As usual, I am the first person on my floor. I turn on the lights, shrug off my trench coat, hang it on the back of my office door and attack the e-mail that arrived over-night. Nothing from Tokyo or London … good. No emergency projects … good. There is that issue in Miami and three meetings scheduled for today, 11:00, 12:30 lunch meeting and the 4:30… not too bad. Pay dirt!
The Dining and Wine section of the New York Times has an article by Eric Asimov on Barley Wines that I somehow missed. (It is dated 1/25/06 if you are interested… you can get it online - free subscription required). The muse strikes. Perhaps a paragraph or two on cellaring beer and we are good till next week.
Cellaring beer? What are you talking about Ed? Beer is best when fresh right? Yes generally that it is true, but there are certain beers that possess unique qualities that permit you to lay them down for extended periods with an eye toward improving them. One style that is a prime candidate for cellaring is the aforementioned Barley Wine. The higher alcohol and hopping levels give this style the fortitude to withstand the rigors of time. The sharp spiciness of the hops will soften and the caramel and toffee notes that come from the huge amount of grain used may become more vinous or port-like. I often buy extra bottles of this seasonal specialty just to set aside for future sampling. In the Times article it is noted that one of the brews sampled was Thomas Hardy’s Ale, both a 2004 vintage and a 1992 (Gasp! A 14 year old beer!). The difference between the vintages is striking. Read the article for more details. It is well worth the trouble to register. There have been past articles in the Times on other beers, including IPAs and Saisons that are also a great read.
What other beers can you Cellar? As a general rule the stronger beer styles such as Doppelbock and Eisbock also the hoppier styles such as Imperial Stout and Double Imperial Pale Ale can be laid down. Likewise, many of the bottle conditioned Belgian beers will benefit from a few years of aging.
How do you cellar a beer? Like wine, beer must be kept in a cool dark place at a constant temperature. A basement closet away from the furnace is a prime candidate. For those with the space, wine chillers can be purchased at most appliance stores for under $200. A temperature range of 50-55 degrees seems to be the ideal temperature for most strong ales; lagers will require slightly cooler temperatures. For longer term storage brewers and experts alike agree that beers should be stored upright not on their sides.
I have only scratched the surface of this topic, consider doing some additional research before cellaring any beers. Often the brewer will make cellaring suggestions right on the packaging.
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