Gift Suggestions for the Beer Lover in your Life

Some suggestions to Make the beer lover in your life a happy camper ...


Beer Bucket:

Hit Basil t's and pick up a fresh growler (or two) of beer. While you're at it, why not add a brewpub T-shirt? Then, when everything is ready, arrange your gifts in a metal pail (Jaspan's Hardware) add some pint glasses and coasters and add some protective filler (polyester batting, wood shavings tissue paper, etc,). (Remember to keep the fresh beer refrigerated).

Beer Glasses:

Every beer aficanado needs a set of appropriate glassware to enjoy the various styles of beer in so stop by your local Crate & Barrel (or a similar shop) and purchase one of each of the following: flute, goblet, mug, pilsner, pint, snifter, tulip, Weizen and an oversized wine glass. Consider adding some Coasters and maybe a book on Beer.

Beer and Snack Basket:

Pair a selection of local craft beers with some quality cheeses. Include some fancy crackers, condiments, summer sauasage, dried salami, smoked oysters etc. Add a suitable glass for the beers. Consider starting with a basket from Michael's, some high end snacks and cheeses from whole foods and beer and glasses from Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank.

Homebrew Kit:

You can buy a starter kit online or at The Brewers Apprentice in Freehold.

As I explained in an earlier column making your own beer can be a real adventure. For the faint of heart, consider a gift certificate to the Brewers Apprentice where you can do all the work on their premises. This lets your aspiring brewer do much of the work, but it keeps that aroma of and inevitable spills that accompany the brewing process out of your home. Brewers Apprentice

Breweriana:

Brewery advertisement collectibles, commonly called Breweriana by the beer afficcianado, Many of the antique stores in Red Bank will have old beer bottles, beer trays, bottle openers and even posters. Some even have collections of old brewery ads from magazines, which look awesome when framed. You can also look online.

Beer of the Month Clubs:

Michael Jackson's Rare Beer Club - Rare says it all. For the beer hunter that does not travel much.

Beer Across America - This is the original “Beer of the Month Club,” a fine pick for the American craft beer lover.

Books on Beer:

Barnes and Noble have a selection of Beer Books. look in the wine and food section.

BeerAdvocate Gear:

Lastly, one of my favorite beer related sites when I am curious about a new (or old) brew. Consider Beer Advocate.Com In additon to being a great resource tey have a gift shop. Any gear that you buy helps support the running of this donations only site. They have T-Shirts, Zippered Hoodies and more.

Do America's Craft Brewers Get It?

I received an interesting e-mail from the author of several books on beer and brewing in response to my last column. I want to thank the writer for his insight and for providing me with the inspiration for this week’s column. The writer’s position is that not only do the large brewing establishments not “get it” the, craft brewing industry does not quite “get it” either. On reflection, I think he raises some excellent points and I am inclined to agree with many of them. The main thrust of his argument is that the craft brewers and their fans should spend less time focusing on their criticism of the big three and their products and more time trying to expand the market share of craft beer. He provided an excellent analogy to the domestic wine industry.

As many of you will recall in the 1970’s and 80’s it was not uncommon to overhear many people ordering a carafe of “red” or “white.” Today, when a specific bottle from a wine list is not being ordered, we generally hear a varietals name such as Merlot, Burgundy, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio etc. The wine industry has educated the public such that today most of us know that there are many varieties of wine within each color grouping. How do craft brewers intend to get to the point where the discerning beer drinker knows that there is a big difference between an India Pale Ale and a Pilsner? That not all dark beers are heavy and bitter? How do craft brewers get the public to order by style and not by brand? The answer, of course, is by educating your consumers.

My two cents. As with the domestic wine industry the domestic craft brewing industry is made up of a disparate range of small to medium and large brewers. Consider the New Jersey Scene: On one end of the spectrum you have local brew-pubs like Basil T’s in Red Bank that do not bottle their beer, though you can buy a growler and take some home, you have niche type small batch brewers like Heavyweight in Ocean Township, and then there are the larger craft brewers that distribute in several states like River Horse in Lambertville and Flying Fish in Cherry Hill. What these folks all need is a common ad campaign. Much like the ad campaigns of the dairy farmers and the National Cattleman’s Beef Association. Perhaps they need to coin a snappy phrase like: “Got Milk?” or “Beef, Its Whats for Dinner.” A smart, yet down to earth advertising campaign aimed at promoting the history and culture of American brewing and the virtues of each of the different varieties of ales and lagers. Consider showcasing the pairing of craft beer and fine dining. Sure it’s tough to beat a glass of Pilsner and a slice of Pepperoni Pizza, but how about a Belgian White with a plate of Mussels? Pairing a glass of Dry Stout with a dozen oysters? The combination of Chicken Sate’ and American Pale Ale?

What are your thoughts? How would you get folks to drink better beer? How would you convince the big three that there is value in brewing a more flavorful beer?

Do America's Big Breweries Get "It"?

Anyone that spends more than a few moments at a local Liquor Store will have noticed the proliferation of Craft Brewed Beers that are now available. Some are domestic, some are imported. Package styles range from the functional to the artistic and everywhere in between. Notwithstanding this development the vast majority of floor and shelf space is devoted to the American Macro Beers and Malternatives like Tequiza and Hard Lemonades... all products of the nefarious BMC (BudMillerCoors). I am always amused when a well dressed man or woman saunters into the store and lingers over the latest Californian, Austrailan or Chilean Wines before selecting the latest "hot pick", then quickly wheels over to the beer section and without pause grabs a 24 Pack of BMC and trundles off to the register thence to the Mercedes for the ride home? What are these folks thinking? Beer has as rich a heritage as wine does. There are as many if not more varieties of beer than wine and frequently beer pairs better with what is on the menu.

American brewing has a rich heritage and has been part of the backdrop for every phase of our nation's history. Washington, Adams and Jefferson were all brewers. The Immigrant brewers like Anheuser Busch started out by brewing flavorful and substantial brews. How did we get to the point we are at today? When most beer drinkers think "American Beer" is synonomous with thin, watery, fizzy, yellow beer that is sold by scantily clad ladies barely old enough to drink themselves?

But there is hope on the horizon. A faint glimmer of light is emanating from the wilds of Saint Louis, Milwaukee and Denver. Beer with flavor. Miller is touting its 1855 Celebration Lager, a macro with taste perhaps? Coors has become increasing bold with its "Winterfest" Amber Seasonal as well as it's "Blue Moon" and "Killian's" Brands. The most encouraging trend however is from no less than the Great Satan of Brewing, the megalithic Anheuser Busch. AB have always dabbled with specialty beers for example, there is Ziegenbock, available only in TX to compete with the Local specialty "Shiner Bock". There are the Michelob Specialty Lagers such as "Amberbock" and "Honey Lager" that are now widely available in bottle or draft. Lastly, in it's latest move toward flavor over quantity ... Anheuser Busch has offered up for public sale its Brewmasters Private Reserve and Michelob's Celebrate. These are clearly craft brewed products and aimed at both the craft brew drinker as well as those that shop by brand. Wheteher you care for these products or not, you have to be pleased by the current trend toward flavorful, full bodied brews over the bland "Mass Quantities" that Beldar the Conehead consumed with fried chicken embryos. At 8.5% and 10% ABV respectively these are serious brews. I have yet to try either brew but I will and I have high hopes. look for a review in a future column.

Christmas Gift sets are in the stores. Now is the time to get the beer drinkers in your life some new brews and the brewerania to match.

How To Be A Great Thanksgiving Guest

The Thanksgiving Holiday is upon us, some of you will ask your hosts what to bring to supplement the repast. Will you be that boring person that shows up with a bottle of inexpensive vino? “Oh Yellowtail how lovely” … Just say no to Pinot! Those cognoscenti that have been reading this column regularly will be armed with the information you need to be that special guest that will be welcomed and remembered for that wonderful selection of beer that you arrived with!

That is the ticket lads and lassies a laundry tub sized assortment of some quality craft-brewed beer! It will liven up the festivities, tantalize the taste buds and lubricate the arid repast that is Roasted Turkey, Dressing and Mashed Potatoes. You can pique your dinner companion’s curiosity and be the hero of the day when you produce a selection of intriguing beers whilst effortlessly discussing some distinct features of each style. Add some personal anecdotes, some brewing history and you will be the life of the party. As an aside, humbly add some pointers on what the discerning taster should expect. No more boring talk of Finite Risk Transfer, Catastrophe Bonds and Eliot Spitzer. Beer shall set you free.

Here are my suggestions, by course:

Aperitif To get the digestive juices flowing, but without overwhelming the taste buds too early might I suggest a nice Pilsner? Consider these choices:

Brooklyn Lager - Brooklyn Brewing
Pennant Pilsner - Brooklyn Brewing
Victory Prima Pils – Victory Brewing

Appetizers/Snacks Consider a Pale Ale here, the spicy hop characteristic of this style pairs nicely with salads, cheeses, fruits, nuts and that new traditional favorite - Spicy chicken wings. These are some picks:

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale – Sierra Nevada Brewing
Dales Pale Ale – Oskar Blues Brewing
Dogfish Head 60 Minute Pale Ale - Dogfish Head Brewery

Main Course
Consider strong Belgian-style ales. Their higher alcohol percentage pairs nicely with the seasonal comfort food:

Allagash Grand Cru – Allagash Brewing
Lunacy - Heavyweight Brewing
Rare Vos – Brewery Ommegang

Dessert

Rich Stouts and Porters pair nicely with Pecan Pie, Shoo Fly Pie, Sweet Potato Pie and other sweets including chocolate. My dessert picks are:

Black Chocolate Stout –Brooklyn Brewing
Storm King Stout – Victory Brewing
Perkuno’s Hammer (Baltic Porter) – Heavyweight Brewing
Digestive (after dinner)

It’s now time to relax, sit back and let that meal fully digest. No doubt you are well and fully bloated at this point, time to sip coffee and take a TUMS?? No way! Get off your butt and grab something smooth, rich and numbing. Reach for the Strong Old Ales and Barleywine Ales. A rich, complex, malty and alcoholic beer will settle the stomach, rectify the humors and is ideally suited for sipping. Some excellent choices include:

Monster Barleywine – Brooklyn Brewing
Bigfoot Barley Wine Style Ale – Sierra Nevada Brewing
Old Horizontal – Victory Brewing
Holidale – Berkshire Brewing Company

Happy Thanksgiving!

Winter Warmers

The chill winds of fall are blowing along the Bay Shore, the geese are flying south in formation, the Stripers are back in the bay, the election rhetoric has reached a fever pitch and its time to for a warmer wardrobe. For beer aficionados this can only mean one thing – It is time to break out the maltier, higher gravity beers to ward off the chill bay shore winds. No need to abandon the front porch, just break out the barn jacket and a snifter of the strong brews mentioned below:

Going from lightest to darkest my Fall- Winter lineup is as follows:

Wheat Wine

A newer style just coming into it’s own can also be described as a strong wheat ale. Wheat Wines contain a large portion of wheat malts, often upwards of 50%. The wheat provides a softer mouth feel. The Wheat Wines that I have sampled have been a hazy pale yellow, with a rocky head, with a floral nose and a dry-hop finish. Smutty Nose’s Wheat Wine is available on local shelves in a 22 ounce bottle. At 11% Alcohol by volume this is a perfect size for sharing.

Tripel

This Belgian Style takes its name from part of the brewing process, in which the brewers use up to three times the amount of barley malt than a standard “Single Ale”. Traditionally, Tripels are clear bright yellow or gold in color. The head tends to be big, dense and creamy. Aroma and flavor is complex, spicy, with fruity ale yeast evident, along with a sweet finish. The style’s sweetness comes from both the malts used and the higher alcohol. Tripels tend to be heavily hopped to offset the alcohol aroma and the sweet malt palate. The lighter body comes from the use of Belgian candy sugar in the fermentation tank, which not only lightens the body, but also adds alcoholic aroma and flavors. Small amounts of spices are sometimes added as well.

Some North East craft breweries include a Tripel in their regular line-up including Allagash (Maine) and Weyerbacher (Pennsylvania). Chimay (White Label) is a fine imported example that is available in most good outlets.

A Similar Style to the Triple is a Belgian Strong Pale Ale. Heavyweight Brewing in Ocean Township makes a brew called “Lunacy “at nearly 8% alcohol by volume it will warm you and sustain you during the long nights of the waning year. Broueri Moortgat’s “Duvel” falls under this style.

Barley Wine

Despite its name, a Barley Wine is very much a beer, albeit a very strong and often intense beer. It is among the strongest of the beer styles. Fruity, rich and sometimes sweet, sometimes dry, a Barley Wine is always alcoholic. A brew of this strength and complexity can be a challenge to the uninitiated palate. Expect colors ranging from amber to deep brown with an aroma ranging from dark dried fruits (dates, figs currants), to spicy and floral hops. Body is typically thick, alcohol will definitely be perceived in the nose and palate, and flavors can range from fruity and sweet to highly hopped.

English varieties are quite different from the American efforts, the American versions are more intensely hopped, usually with West Coast hops (Cascades, Willamette, etc.). English versions tend to be more balanced, with slightly lower alcohol content, though this is not always the case.

Most Barley Wines can be cellared for years and will mellow and improve with age. Consider trying “Monster” by Brooklyn Brewing, “Old Horizontal” (affectionately known as “Old Ho”) by Victory Brewing or Sierra Nevada’s “Bigfoot”. Buy a sixer of each and enjoy one bottle now and cellar the rest in a cool dry space.

Wee Heavy (Scotch Ale)

In 19th century Scotland, these brews would also be known as a “160 Shilling”, a name derived from the now obsolete shilling currency. Tax was levied on the Original Gravity of the Brew, The higher the Original Gravity the higher the tax. Scotch Ales traditionally go through a long boil in the kettle for a caramelization of the wort. This produces a deep copper to brown in colored brew and subtle caramel and toffee undertones. Compared to 60 and 90 Shilling Scottish Ales, a Wee Heavy will be sweeter and fuller-bodied, and of course higher in alcohol, with a much more pronounced caramel and roasted malt flavor. To add to the complexity and offset some of the sweetness a portion of the malts used may be smoked over turf (peat) as are the malts used in Scots Whisky. For an added flourish you can serve this brew in a “Thistle” shaped glass. This glass style will pay homage to the Scottish National Flower as well as concentrate the rich aroma of this fine restorative elixir.

I recommend “Robert the Bruce” (9% ABV) by Three Floyd’s Brewing as a fine domestic example of this style. Sam Adam’s makes a decent Scotch Ale, though at 5.4% ABV it is hardly a Wee Heavy. On the import side Orkney Brewing’s “Skull Splitter” (8.5% ABV) will take the bite out of the fiercest Northeast Wind off the Raritan Bay. (The scary looking Viking on the Label is all the warning you need mate.)

Doppelbock

Stylistically speaking Double Bock or Doppelbock (also Weizenbock) are huge beers with enough malt packed in them to consider them a meal in its self. Generally these beers have a full-bodied malty profile with a creamy tan head and darker coloration than “single” bocks with a much higher level of alcohol as well. They range in color from dark amber to nearly black. Dark versions may have slight chocolate or roasted characters. For more information you can read my earlier column on this style. ( Ahhh Bock ). For two excellent examples try Sam Adams Double Bock or Paulaner’s Salvator.

Imperial Stout

Created by English brewers back in the 1800’s to win over the Russian Czar, this is the king of stouts, boasting high alcohol by volume and plenty of malty character. An Imperial Stout unlike its Nitrogen Carbonated cousins has a low to moderate level of carbonation with huge roasted, chocolate and burnt malt flavors. An Imperial Stout will have a palate with hints of rich, dark fruit and alcohol quite evident. Hop character varies from balanced to aggressive. This style inspired the Baltic Porters of Sweden and Lithuania.

Enjoy these beers with care.

SOUR BEER? ITS A GOOD THING

As we wind our way across the seasons and begin our transition to the comfort foods and Maltier Beers of Fall I thought I’d take a step back and talk about a unique beer style that is traditionally a summer style. This brew is available for your enjoyment year-round.

The style in question is Berliner Weisse which is a top-fermented, bottle conditioned wheat beer made with both traditional warm-fermenting yeasts and lactobacillus culture. It has a rapidly vanishing head and a hazy, pale golden straw-colored appearance. The taste is refreshing, tart, sour and acidic, with a lemony sharpness and little hop bitterness in the finish.

Berliner Weiss is traditionally served in wide bulbous stemmed glasses. Visitors to Berlin will often order one as a "Berliner Weisse mit Schuss (literally with a shot): Himbeere" or "Berliner Weisse mit Schuss: Waldmeister". These are sweet syrups that are added to make the sourness more palatable. They have the pleasant visual effect of changing the brews color as well. Himbeere is sweet raspberry syrup (bright red) and Waldmeister is sweetened essence of woodruff (lurid green). I actually enjoy the Berliner Weisse on its own, but I did try adding some Grenadine Syrup to see what sweet syrups would do to the flavor profile. The taste remained sour but the sweet fruit syrup gave it a flavor profile reminiscent of a sour ball candy. Not an unpleasant taste at all, though not something I would seek out very often.

The most common brand of Berliner Weisse available in this country is Berliner Kindl Weisse. Despite having only 2.5% Alcohol by Volume this beer is extremely flavorful and somewhat pricey. $14.99 for a six pack at Whole Foods. I have also seen it for a buck or two less at Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank, though last time I looked there was a health layer of dust on the packaging which gave me pause.

New in the local stores Wiedenmayer “Jersey Lager”. If you like a maltier Oktoberfest Beer this one is a must try. Pair it with some Chili and Saltines.

The Breweries of Vermont Part Three

Vermont is called the Green Mountain State for a good reason. The verdant panorama of the Mountains that span the state is the backdrop to everything. We were comfortably settled in my wife's aunt's "camp" on Lake Champlain with it's glorious and panoramic views of the Champlain Isles and the Adirondacks beyond them. Echelons of clouds marched in a steady stream across the powder blue, northern skies. The clear waters of the lake were refreshing and had more than enough yellow perch and small-mouthed bass to keep our kids glued to the lakefront. We must have a good dozen pictures of the "trophies" that my little anglers caught (and released) on a combination of lures and live-bait. In the evenings, the setting sun and the giggles of happy kids paired nicely with the beers of Magic Hat.

Magic Hat is a Burlington Institution. They sponsor events in and around the Burlington area including Mardi Gras. Their web site is quirky, artful and sometimes frustrating . Their brewery, though somewhat non-descript on the outside is anything but typical on the inside. Oh sure they have the typical brewery fixtures: stainless steel tanks, pipes and bottling equipment - its the tasting area and gift shop that must be experienced.

You walk into the visitors entrance and instead of a brighlty lit welcoming dispay area you are enfolded into darkness. Dark painted walls, dark - loud heavy metal music, dimly lit corrugated steel panels and bins full of shirts and other brewery logo items (Spencer Gifts?). At the far end of the darkend room is the tasting and growler filling area. It consists of a dark colored bar with multiple taps, dark colored lounge furniture and is decorated with artsy promotional posters that evoke the era of psychedelia. Not the typical brewery at all.

The style used for labelling and packaging of their beer runs the gamut from the Stalinist Inspired "Mother Lager" to the Heinleinesque "H.I.P.A." Anything goes it seems. One might say that this is just typical Vermont individuality (coming out with guns blazing). But this is all window dressing that starkly contrasts with their bright and flavorful brews. My wife and I sampled several at the source and pronounced them all tasty and worthy of purchase.

The first up was the Mother Lager. This was an "entry level brew" that is a crisp and clean tasting pale lager. Nothing distinctive but enough character to take it out of the realm of your typical macro. Then there was "Number 9" an apricot accented pale ale that was a little heavy on the fruit for our tastes but was drinkable and had some dry and sour notes that meet many of the requirements of a summer quencher. The aroma of apricots wafting from our glasses reminded me of a summer harvest of the featured fruit. Next up was "Batch 370",the brewers rendition of a traditional German Hefe-Weizen. Cloudy sunshine yellow with a rocky white head. Aromas of cloves, bananas and bubble-gum. The taste was dry and sweet with spice and fruit and even a little "Double-Bubble". Not at all out of place with this style. The next brew, Batch 371, was also a Weizen but this time it was a "Dunkel-Weizen." This was, we agreed, was the most flavorful brew that we tried that visit. This rich dark-amber elixir with a short lived white head was slick on the tongue and palate. The nose was fruit, caramel and spice. The taste was rich and complex. Some ripe fruit, some cloves and other unidentifiable spices and a rather short-lived dry hop finish.

Over the following days we sampled a few other of the Magic Hat brews in bottles and found them all to be good solid performers. These beers are available on a regular basis at Buy-Rite in Atlantic Highlands in single variety six and 12 packs as well as the seasonal sampler twelve packs: "The Summer Variety Show" and "The Night of the Living Dead."

The Fourth and Final Installment in this series will cover some of the beers we acquired at places other than the source.

Hope your summer was grand. Schools Open, drive carefully.

Magic Hat Brewing

The Breweries of Vermont Part Two

North on Route 100 a winding, roller-coaster of a road to the sleepy hamlet of Waterbury, where just off main street resides the Alchemist.

Whats in a name? In days of old Alchemists would scam money from unwitting patrons with tales and theories of turning lead into gold among other improbabilities. The scam was perpetrated by the Alchemist asking for increasing amounts of cash "needed" by the Alchemist to purchase the additonal "rare and secret ingedients" to complete the transformation process. For grins type the words Edward Kelley and Alechemist into Google and you will be shown a link to the Occultopedia for information on a Rougue, Alchemist and Lawyer named Edward Kelley

I was beginning to feel like an Alchemist of sorts with my own family. "We are almost there guys...just a few more minutes...be patient...another ten minutes ... I promise we'll be there shortly." Until at last, unlike the Alchemist Edward Kelley of old, I pulled a brewpub out of my hat. Or rather I pulled up to a brew pub. Outside looks fairly non-descript. An old brick storefront with the name artfully painted on the windows. You enter the door and are greeted by a high ceilinged room with a bar on the right and tables to the left. The light fixtures are eclectic chandeliers, the decor is a mix of unpainted brick, hardwoods and stainless steel. Cozy and inviting. We had a short wait during which the bartender left his post at the bar and crossed the room to see if we needed a drink. We did. I ordered an ale called Wild Child, my wife had the Hefty Weizen and the kids Artisanal Sodas Called "Pop Soda."

My beer arrived and it was hazy pale red, it had little head, little carbonation and the aromy was spicy, fruty with some biscuit aroma. The taste was delightfully sour much like a Flemish Red Ale. Very refreshing. My wife's beer was the brewer's cask-conditioned impression of a German Hefe-Weizen. It was fresh and tasty. Better than any of this style I have tried to date. The appearance was hazy yellow with a rocky white head. The aroma was classic Hefe-Weizen, bannanas and other tropical fruits, cloves and other spices, hints of bubble-gum. The taste was also the classic Hefe Weizen taste. Slightly sweet malt, a touch of floral hops, like my brew this beer was also crisp and refreshing. My eldest son's Lemon-Ginger soda was tasty and refreshing as well. So much so that we spent a fair amount of time trying to find a retail source for it.

As this is not a food column I will not dwell on the food except to say it was fresh, delicious and innovative. My burger was blackened, topped with bleu cheese and paired with Belgian style fries that were served with homemade mayonnaise.

Next week...the wacky World of Magic Hat!

Some links:

Occultopedia

The Alchemist Brewery

PopSoda

The Breweries of Vermont, Part One

So we loaded up the Tahoe and we headed north to Vermont. Yes, Vermont, the Green Mountain State; a verdant paradise of Appalachian vistas, clear running streams, captive insurers and excellent micro-breweries. My family is a tolerant bunch. They indulge me in my beer hobby. They have to of course, I am driving and it is a long walk home.

We crossed into Vermont in the Vicinity of Whitehall, New York. Formerly called Skenesborough, Whitehall is the birthplace of the United States Navy. It was in the harbor of this historic town that Benedict Arnold assembled his fleet of vessels before the October 11, 1776, Battle of Valcour Island. Though Arnold was defeated, with a significant loss of life and vessels on the both sides, the resistance encountered by the British and their losses caused them to delay their southward movement and return to Canada until the following spring. This bought the colonists valuable time and set the stage for the 1777 campaign in upstate New York. This campaign culminated in the stunning American victory at Saratoga on October 17, 1777. Alas I again have wandered off the trail…

So on into the Green Mountain State we drove. The Incredibles on the portable DVD player, three children blissfully ignoring the bovine adorned scenery (though they noted the earthy aroma) and my wife and I having a civil navigational discussion (cough, choke, muttered curses under the breath). Ultimately we arrived at our first stop on the beer tour, the Long Trail Brewing Company in Bridgewater Corners, Vermont (www.longtrail.com). We arrived from the South, the building is a modern structure built in the fashion of a dairy barn. With a peaked tin roof and an idyllic location on the banks of a rushing stream, it welcomed us and beckoned us to explore and experience. Alas it was not to be… a t-shirt and some beer to bring home was all we had allotted time for. They serve lunch and have indoor and outdoor seating. Their gift shop is well stocked and reasonably priced. The restrooms were clean.

I chatted briefly with one of the staff and complimented her on their fine ales, which are now available (since this spring) in New Jersey. She said their sales had increased nearly 25% over the same period last year. She recommended that I purchase some of their unfiltered India Pale Ale as it was fresh and available only at the brewery. I bit and I will share my review in a later column.

The Long Trail Beers I did try were all consistently excellent. Their flagship Long Trail Ale is a fruity, spicy and balanced Altbier. Double Bag is a richly textured, slightly maltier “Double Alt.” Hit the Trail Ale is a deliciously malty, lightly hopped, light to medium bodied, English Brown Ale. The “Blackbeary Wheat” is a flavored wheat beer that my wife and I both agreed was crisp and delicious. Sharply sour blackberry notes on a background of soft wheat malts. I normally eschew flavored wheat beers but it was a warm Vermont afternoon and the tart refreshing taste struck the right chord with us.

Sadly they did not yet have any Hibernator, their Scotch Ale, available for tasting.

Then it was back in the car and Northward on Route 100 to Waterbury. Our next stop, The Alchemist, a brewpub. (to be continued)

Judge Rules Miller Genuine Draft Not Proven to be Beer

We already knew this...

By Holly Herman
Reading Eagle

The case went flat for prosecutors when Berks County Judge Jeffrey K. Sprecher dismissed charges against a 44-year old Kutztown man accused of buying beer for his 17-year-old neighbor.
The teen, Shawn Putnam of Kutztown, testified at a pretrial hearing that Gregg R. Hartman, his neighbor, bought him a case of Miller Genuine Draft at Duffer's Distributors in Kutztown on Jan. 7 and that he drank five beers from the case.

But Sprecher ruled, in an order made available Tuesday, that prosecutors failed to prove Miller Genuine Draft is indeed beer.

Sprecher sided with the defense and ruled Putnam's testimony was not enough to prove Hartman of the 300 block of East Walnut Street bought beer.

“They did not have any beer cans or tests to prove it was beer,” argued defense attorney David R. Eshelman.

Eshelman said prosecutors did not present a state Liquor Control Board list of all beers.

“There is no testimony on the record that the beer contained any alcohol,” he said. “In most cases, the prosecutors will give a list from the state with names of beer to prove that it is beer. In this case, they did not do that.”

On Tuesday, Assistant District Attorney Joseph R. Speece filed a request for Sprecher to reconsider his decision and included with that the state's list of beers.

“We thought that the boy's testimony proved that he drank beer,” Speece said.

According to testimony at the pretrial hearing:

Hartman picked up Putnam to drive him to a restaurant. Instead, Putnam said, Hartman agreed to drive him to the distributor and buy beer for Putnam.

Putnam drank five beers in the car while Hartman drove around.

Hartman's car skidded on the right side of Long Lane in Greenwich Township and went off the road at 11:20 p.m.

State police responded, and Hartman was charged with furnishing liquor to minors.

Officials said Putnam was cited for underage drinking and pleaded guilty. Further details were unavailable.

Eshelman said the law requires prosecutors to prove the beer contained at least 5 percent alcohol.

“No testimony or evidence on records proved that Miller Genuine Draft contained 5 percent alcohol,” Eshelman said. “I was not surprised with the outcome. It was the right outcome.”

Beer and memory.

Brooklyn in the 1960's. There was the Jingle..."My beer is Rheingold the dry beer, think of Rheingold whenever you buy beer, it's refreshing not sweet, it's the extra dry treat, won't you try extra dry Rheingold Beer.." That jingle was everywhere. On the Radio, on the TV and at the Ball Game. Mr. Met even drank Rheingold beer. There was the special glass that Grandpa Eddy reserved for his brew of choice. It was sort of a wide-mouthed stemmed pilsner with the familar red and white logo. Then there were the secret sips that he would give me as we had Sunday Dinner. Grandma served up roasted chicken and potatoes and that secret bread pudding recipe that she baked in a pyrex bowl, sometimes it was rice pudding. I remember how the sunlight filtered through the Irish Lace sheers that covered the windows. I remember the heavy mahogany furnishings and the broad dark wood trim and tin ceilings. I remember Sunday dinners in Brooklyn and I remember my first sips of Rheingold Beer.

As I type this at my computer I know that Grandpa Eddy and Granny Mary Smyth are long gone, but I will always have them in my memories. I am sitting in Grandpa's desk chair that he was given by the Federal Reserve Bank of New York. His gold watch and cuff-links are proudly dispalyed in the glass curio cabinet atop my bookcase. Sometimes, as I sip a cold beer with my family at Sunday Dinner I still remember that special glass. Yes I let my kids have a sip of beer now and again ... the wrinkled nose says it all.

As an aside I have tried the new Rheingold. Surprisingly, it tastes much as I remember it, though the new brewer has sweetend it up a bit and bottled it a long-necked clear glass bottle with a painted label. Rheingold, it isn't the best beer out there but for me, one sip and I am back in Brooklyn.

Leipziger Gose

This is one of the hardest to find beers of Summer, but it is worth seeking out for a delightful change of pace. This past week has been hazy, hot and humid on the Bayshore. The Dawg days of August call for heavy duty refreshment. This is the time of year when something light, crisp and perhaps a touch acidic can take the edge off the oppressive heat.

Gose is a style of beer unique to Leipzig, Germany and environs. It can trace its origins back to 1842, the same year as another perennial favorite style, the Pilsner, was first being brewed in Pilsen, Bohemia (Now the Czech Republic) to the South. It is also the same year that a famous all male Military Academy was founded in Charleston, South Carolina ... but I digress. Gose was once brewed by more than 20 local breweries. The Leipzig area fell upon hard times in the wake of the Second World War and the style all but vanished. Since reunification it has made a comeback with two regional brwers distributing Gose both in the region and the export market.

The style is reminiscent of the Weiss beers of neighboring Bavaria in that the grain bill is comprised of between 50 and 60 per cent malted wheat. The other malts are a Pilsener and a small proportion of Munich. The hops are Northern Brewer (for bitterness) and Perle, from the nearby Elbe-Saale growing area. Like most wheat beers, Gose has very little hop bitterness. In this particular style, the balancing dryness is provided by the ground coriander seeds and salt, which are added in the in the final stages of the mash.

If the proof of the pudding is in the eating, the proof of the beer is in the drinking. The beer was bottled in a long necked 25.4 ounce "flasche" with a porcelain stopper and a painted lable. The bottle looked like something you would find at an antique fair. Quite lovely actually. I chose a thin - walled .4 liter "Stange" to savor this beer as that was the closest thing I had to the Glass that was depicted in the hand of the very happy looking man in the label illustration.

The beer poured a hazy, sunshine yellow...not unlike the weather we have been having. The head was thick and creamy and it clung to the sides of the glass in thick clumps. The aroma was cirusy, spicy with malty/bready undertones. The palate is acidic and sharply sour with hints of spice and traces of salt. The sourness was profound and refreshing. This truly is a beer to take the edge off the heat.

I obtained my sample of Gose at Super Saver off route 22 East in Somerville. The distributor for this product is Hunterdon Brewing
. I have also seen it in the smaller half-liter bottle at Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank.

The Dumbing Down of American Beer

Firstly, thank you to Michele of Shore Point Distributors in Freehold for taking the time to answer a few questions about your employer, the Beer Supplier to Seastreak. Michelle we hope you enjoyed your ride on the Ferry and arrived home safely. Now, perhaps you can convince your employer to promote some other Coors brands on the Boats. Killian's, Caffrey's, Winterfest, Steinlager and Blue Moon are all Coors Brand's and more flavorful and tasty brews by comparison with some of the other Coors products. I also note that Yuengling is also distributed by your employer. They make a great Porter and a decent Lager and the are available in cans. Hey, it can't hurt to ask, right?

There was a time when America's mainstream brews were flavorful and full bodied. Where each beer had a distinct character and brand loyalty was based on a beers taste not the Swedish Bikini team or a pair of talking Geckos. That era has passed. The descent into beer purgatory started during the 50's. By the 80's the only tasty beers were imports. The rest of the market was mass produced, mass advertised and intended to be consumed in mass quantities. Today's mainstream brews focus more on convenience and "refreshment" as opposed to character. This is how they are marketed and this is what they live up to. American mainstream beers have largely evolved to become what are called "Adjunct Lagers." They are fermented from a certain percentage of malted barley, but also corn, wheat, rice, sorghum and other less expensive cereal grains. They are lagered with carefully cultivated yeast strains. They are lightly hopped with carefully processed dried hop pellets. The resulting brews are very mild in the palate. The brewers aim is to not offend anyone’s tastes as opposed to seeking a distinctive flavor and style. This guarantees them the broadest possible appeal to consumers. As the resultant beers are so mild and similar in profile, brand loyalty is acquired through marketing and gimmickry and not the brewing art.

These modern macro-lagers are however masterfully consistent - a Coors in Denver will taste the same as one in Miami regardless of which brewery it was produced at. This is indeed a modern marvel. Alas, to me, drinking a consistent bland beer is nowhere near as rewarding as savoring a full bodied beer with character. Just ask a serious scotch or wine drinker why they drink what they drink. They will likely tell you that they enjoy the depth and character of the drink they may say they find it relaxing to linger over a glass or two trying to tease ot the taste of the soil or the oak. They may also have a list of "every day" or "ordinary" drinks that they enjoy with meals or at parties. They also have "special occasion" drinks that they enjoy with a good book. It is also this way with many beer aficionados.

Now, we all know the stereotype image that beer drinkers have ... It does not have to be that way. The Craft Brewing Movement is taking back our beer. Now you can get reasonably priced, distinctive beer at most well stocked stores. In our area check out the vast selection at the Spirits Unlimited outlets in Red Bank and Middletown. Even our little Buy-Rite in Atlantic Highlands has some nice macro alternatives as well. Go ahead think out of the box. Before you grab that 30 Pack of Keystone and head for the block party, consider instead a couple of six-packs of a decent American Pale Ale or a locally brewed Pilsner. You may just find a new "usual."

Remember to think Global and Drink Local.

Home Brewing - Not me!

Home Brewing – A Cautionary Tale

While on a family trip to England I fell in love with the tasty, if somewhat flat, beers that they served in the many pubs that we visited. One day, whilst visiting one of my father’s colleagues, we were treated to some home brewed beer. It was quenching, refreshing and tasty. I said to myself: “Yeah I could do that.” Thusly, so convinced I visited the local “Chemist” and picked up two kits for making beer at home as well as a recipe book for traditional beers. Later that week, as we boarded the plane at Heathrow, I was convinced that I was going to make the tastiest and strongest beer possible. Boy was I in for a rude awakening.

I arrived home and proceeded to scour the countryside and gather the essential equipment: several cases of empty beer bottles (stale beer – yum) a glass carboy with a fermentation lock, siphon tubing, sterilizer tablets, bottle brushes and etc. etc. This was no minor undertaking let me assure you. Months passed and mail order acquisitions of more “essentials” were made. Eventually the day arrived when I had it all … or so I thought. That little voice that often says: “Are you really sure you want to do this?” was conveniently absent during most of this process.

In my mothers pristine kitchen I arrayed my ordnance: malt extract, yeast, extra sugar and the biggest pot that Mom owned - 8 Quarts. The “book” said to use a larger pot but I figured I could boil in two batches…the first of many short-cuts. I filled the pot with water and proceeded to boil it. When a good rolling boil was attained I opened the malt extract can and attempted to pour it in the boiling water. Well you can imagine my surprise when the dark brown gelatinous mass, that is malt extract, refused to depart the can in which it came. In my zeal to overcome it’s obstinacy I dropped the entire can into the pot. The resultant splash of scalding water left delightful welts on my hands and forearms The hot water however worked its magic and the now warmed extract flowed freely from the can into the boiling water thus creating a sickly sweet smelling Barley Soup. I fished the can out of the now brim filled pot using a long handled fork…spilling some of the pots and the cans remaining contents on the floor, some on the range and some on the countertop. The sugars in the extract began to burn instantly. The “wonderful” smell wafting through the house captured my family’s interest. One by one they trooped into the kitchen to see what was up. My mother was just commenting on the odor when the now un-watched pot full of sickly sweet elixir boiled over onto her formerly pristine range-top. The boiling extract, rich in maltose and other sugars caramelized onto all the range surfaces. Smoke began to rise from the range hood and the smoke detector sent out the shrill reminder that usually indicated that Mom had burned the rolls again… The boiled over water extract mix eventually extinguished the burner on the stove. The situation deteriorated rapidly from this point onward but I will spare you the story of the exploding bottles and the sticky kitchen floor, you get the idea, and perhaps fully understand why I now purchase beer only after it has been brewed.

Big Beers.

Bigger can sometimes be better. Now before you run out and buy that forty ouncer of Steel Reserve "High Gravity" or that 30 pack of a well known "fine pilsner beer", you need to know that I am not writing to extol the virtues of quantity, I am referencing beers with a "bigger" profile. Namely: Barley Wines, Eisbocks, Baltic Porters, Doppelbocks, Strong Old Ales, Belgian Tripples and what can best be described as "Extreme" versions of traditional styles such as "Imperial" Stouts, Porters and Pale Ales.



Bigger beers run the gamut from having a rich malty profile reminiscent of a Ruby Port, one that perhaps suggests "dessert" to a sharp, citrus, hop profile that suggests a very dry white wine. Now before anyone gets their knickers in a knot about this comparison of beer and wine, please consider that while advocating good beer it is sometimes essential to provide a point of reference. As you explore new styles and tastes do not overlook the chance to try the occasional Big Beer. Consider the following suggestions:



As an aperitif to "whet" your guests appetite pair that summer salad with an Imperial Pale Ale. Served up in a white wine glass the sharp hop profile will stimulate the appetite, and the inevitable citrus flavors and aromas will compliment the greens and the vinegar based dressing. If spicy food is on the menu offer up more of the same as the strong profile is more than a match for fiery chilies.



When serving a rich buttery cheese, such as Brie, Gouda, Havarti or Swiss, consider offering your guests a Doppelbock or an Eisbock served in a Burgundy glass. The huge, rich malt profile will compliment the cheese nicely.



When you might serve a Port or a Sauterne as a dessert wine consider an "Old Ale" or a Barley Wine. Or try it matched with some Stilton or Maytag Bleu and some Crusty bread. Why not?



Have I piqued your curiosity? Next time you are in a good beer store consider purchasing some big beers to add to your larder. My recommendations are Victory "Old Horizontal" Barley Wine; North Coast Brewing "Old Stock Ale"; Smutty Nose Brewing "Big A" Imperial Pale Ale, Heavyweight Brewing "Old Salty" Barley Wine and "Perkuno's Hammer" Baltic Porter; Sam Adams "Double Bock" and "Scotch Ale"; Aventinus "Weizen Eisbock"; Samuel Smith's "Imperial Stout" Hint: If you have a cool, dark place in your home you may wish to lay some of these beers down to mature a bit more in the bottle.



Think Global and Drink Local

Freshness and Packaging

Many people have asked me variations of the following three questions. While reasonable minds may differ, here are my thoughts:

What is the best packaging for beer?

As of today, we have four main choices: Glass Bottles; Plastic Bottles; Aluminum Cans; and now Aluminum Bottles. You will note there is no mention of Keg or Cask. This is deliberate as I don't consider either of these very portable and thus outside the scope of this weeks coulumn.

Beer is light sensitive. The Ultra Violet (UV) light that we need sunglasses and sunscreen to block out affects our beer as well. UV light damages beer. The ideal packaging for beer will admit as little light as possible. This makes aluminum cans and bottles the ideal container for UV protection. Alas, while the number of brands is growing, the number of quality beers in aluminum cans and bottles is somewhat limited. As I write this, only a few craft beers are available. Brown bottles come next in terms of protection, then green and lastly with no protection clear bottles. I believe plastic bottles permit light transmission in a manner and degree similar to glass, so again, brown, green and clear in that order. I usually avoid green and clear bottles whenever possible. Personally, the "skunk risk factor" is way out of proportion to the price of the beer. If you must buy such packaging try to buy something that is fully encased in cardboard. The less exposure to light the better. When you have no choice consider the following precautions:

When buying clear bottle beers such as Corona, Tecate, Sol or Newcastle get the twelve pack or buy a case that is fully boxed. Same goes for beer in green bottles like Heineken or Rolling Rock. You should also note that many of these beers are also available in cans. Consider buying the cans and drinking from a glass or plastic tumbler.

When buying beer from a lighted refrigerator case, take your pack from the back of the case. Flourescent lights will also harm a beer. Again, less light exposure equals better tasting beer.

When buying beer that is on the un-refrigerated shelves always go for the sixer in the back and out of the direct light.


How do I insure that I am getting the freshest beer posssible?

Firstly, there are never any guarantees but always check the freshness date.

As you know beer is a food product made of four common ingredients (Water, Malts/Grains, Hops and Yeast). Like any food product it is sensitive to the conditions under which it is stored and the length of time it is stored before consumption. One hears tales from people that have completed a brewery tour about that beer they served at the end of the tour and how it was the freshest, cleanest, tastiest & etc. Like most breads (that incidently share three ingredients with beer) freshness counts. That "Born on Date" that a major St Louis based brewer touts, is for real. While some artisanal beers, and many of those with higher Alcohol By Volume, benefit from aging, most beer is best consumed within a few weeks or months of bottling/canning. WARNING: When you see a beer on markdown check the freshness date before putting it in the cart! I have been burned. That great bargain became the first of several drain pours.

Temperature affects the freshness and taste of beer. Exposure to heat will accelerate the breakdown of beer, will lead to loss of freshness faster and may result in a stale or skunky beer. Practically speaking it is difficult to avoid beer that has been exposed to excessive heat. Unless we buy it at the source we don't know where the beer has been. To reduce the risks of heat damage, buy from local craft brewers as the beer will have spent less time in transit. Also consider buying from the cold case if possible. This will increase the chances of a fresh brew reaching your palate while still at its peak of freshness.

What type of container keeps beer colder longest??

Aluminum cans and bottles chill faster than glass or plastic. Consequently, they also warm up a bit faster. This is not a signifigant factor if you enjoy your beer from a glass as the brewer intends it. It is also more convenient to transport, store and recycle aluminum. Glass will keep you beer cooler longer, and feels better in the hand, on the lips and on the tongue than aluminum. But, again if you drink from a glass so you can smell and taste the brew as intended by the brewer, this is not a big plus. Glass also breaks and transmits light.

Hope you found this discussion helpful. Until next time, remember to think global and drink local.

We lost a great one today.

Shelby Foote, that loquacious Mississippian, has left us. His three volume set on the American Civil War chronicles one of the few wars that actually resolved anything. To read his prose is to experience the epitome of fine writing merged with the historian's craft. Most of us first became aware of Shelby as a feature commentator on Ken Burns' series, The Civil War. He wrote like he spoke: The eloquent metered pace of a white suited Southern Gentleman. General Lee did not merely watch the progress of the battle...Rather Foote might write: "General Lee, from his perch astride Traveler, that noble dappled mare that carried him for so long, observed the ebb and flow of the epic struggle taking place...."

He perhaps never found a way to say things quickly, but he said them well and with an objective honesty that was refreshing.

You heard it ... read it here first.

I just got an e-mail from the President of Hunterdon Brewing. Dale's Pale Ale is coming to NJ. Woo Hoo! Finally a "Can Beer" that kicks ass! You read it here first folks.

Random thoughts and comments

I find more and more people are intersted in full flavored ales. I sat next to someone on the ferry that is a Pale Ale fan. She was excited that I had appealed to the ferry operator for better choices in beer.

There was a good article in the Dining and Wine section of the New York Times today. We are going to have to stock up on Pale Ales for the Fourth. This article is a good place to start. I noted with some amusement that the beer they selected as their top choice was a "can" beer. No light damage. Have to check with Hunterdon to see if this beer is coming to NJ soon.

Better Beer on the Bounding Main

Bud, Miller Lite, Coors Light, Heineken, Amstel Light. This is the beer selection on the Seastreak Ferries. Pitiful. At over $500 per month to commute one should expect a beer selection that is, shall we say, geared for the discriminating palate perhaps? Dare I suggest, a selection that made a token effort to support the local craft brewers from the Tri-State region? Perhaps they could consider the fine Jersey Gold brewed by Hunterdon Brewing for Service on the Seastreak New Jersey ? They have a vessel named the Seastreak Brooklyn, why not serve the fine beers from the Brooklyn Brewery? For a company that prides itself on local involvement and stresses quality of service they are somewhat remiss in the beer department. At this point my long suffering wife is saying "sit down Ed your making an A$$ of yourself." Undaunted by the gales of protest,it is on this very tack that I chose to write to the President of the Company in an appeal to bring better beer to the waterbourne commiuters that ride the Seastreak Ferries...

June 28, 2005

Mr. Geoffrey Ede
Managing Director
Hoverspeed Ltd
International Hoverport
Dover
Kent
United Kingdom
CT17 9TG



VIA TELECOPIER ONLY



Dear Mr. Ede:

I am writing to request that you consider serving better quality beer on the Seastreak Ferry service to New York City. As a company that prides itself on high quality of service, your selection of beer is uniformly adjunct based lagers. This style of beer tends to be rather sparing of character and taste. There are no Porters, Bitters, Stouts or Ales of any type available on any of your Monmouth County based vessels. I note that you do serve such beers on your UK based services. The riders on your vessels deserve better choices and different beer styles. . Locally brewed versions of the aforementioned styles are readily available from most local distribution outlets

Please consider, as a member of the Monmouth County business community, that you are uniquely positioned to support and showcase our proud regional brewers. Perhaps you may wish to consider featuring different brewer’s products on a rotating basis. This increased selection will also enhance the commuting experience and introduce your riders to beers that they might otherwise never take the opportunity to sample. Your riders win by getting a chance to discover a new high quality beer, you win by enhancing customer loyalty and reinforcing the perception that you value quality over conformity, and the local brewers win by getting a chance to market their wares to a select clientele.

I understand that you rely on “popular” brews to ensure that you are not left with unwanted stock. With proper promotion, and reasonable pricing I think you will find that you can enhance your customers commuting experience, support your fellow entrepreneurs and not be left with unwanted stale beer.

In the interest of full disclosure: I am not affiliated with any local brewers or beer distributors, nor do I work in the beverage industry. I am however a Seastreak customer and use your service on average 10 times per week. Should you be interested I will gladly make some recommendations to you or your designee, though I suspect your local staff already has a contact in the local distribution chain that could, if requested, furnish some quality, local beers.

Thank you for your time and consideration.


Respectfully,


Edward Kelley

Atlantic Highlands, NJ

Brooklyn and Pilsner

Brooklyn and Pilsner ... I don't get it?

Yup, that's just what I said. But "get it" is what you can and should do. Get it and try it. I am of course referring to the Brooklyn Brewery's "Brooklyn Pilsner". This is a solid and tasty brew. True to the style it is sunshine yellow with a fluffy white head, has a sweet floral hop aroma and a balanced yet spicy profile that is not as bracing as a hoppy Pale Ale nor is it bland and insipid like a big brewery "Pilsner Wannabee." (Miller Lite - a "True Pilsner Beer"...Yeah right whatever you say Madison Avenue.) While we are on a Pilsner kick, I'd like to suggest you also try Victory Brewing's "Prima Pils." A superior interpretation of the style as well, though a bit hoppier than the Brooklyn, it is another refreshing beer that will take the edge off a June evening on the front porches in and around our fair little Borough. These brews are all available at Buy-Rite in the Bayshore Shopping Center.

Just what is a Pilsner beer you ask? A Pilsner is a lager beer style said to have originated in Bohemia (part of the old Czechoslovakia) in and around the Village of Pilsen (Pilzen). The style dates back to approximately 1840. Interestingly enough, a neighboring village to Pilsen is Budweis, home of the Original Budweiser, though due to trademark restrictions it is only available only in this country under the curious name of "Czechvar." In Europe and elsewhere "Budweiser" or "Budvar" is the name used. A popular style, Pilsner-like beers are brewed around the globe: From the highly regarded Bedele Pilsner of Ethiopia to the Ginga Kogen Pilsner of Japan. Of course then there are the German Style "Pilsners". Personally I find the German Pilsners a bit hoppier and bit fuller bodied than the Czech Pilsners that I have tried. I would place both the Brooklyn and Victory Pilsners in the grouping with the German Pilsners. Examples of the Czech style include the readily available Pilsner Urquell and Czechvar as mentioned above.

Gastronomically, you will want to pair that Pilsner with some spicy Chicken Sate, Thai Food in General, Szechwan-Style Chinese dishes or an Italian Hot Dog ( http://www.jimmybuff.com )

If Baseball Players are the "Boys of Summer" Pilsners, Pale Ales and Wheat beers are the "Beers of Summer." We'll save the latter two for a future column.

While we are on the subject of beer and summertime I have been asked by several of you to comment on what my "favorite" beer is and what do I always have in the house. The short answer is that it varies with the seasons and the reasons, ask me in October and you are likely to get a different answer. My "cheap indulgence" beer is Ballantine Ale, a good inexpensive beach beer that comes in a funky green can. It's fruity, its malty and its dirt cheap. My "the yard work is done and a reward is in order" beer is a toss-up between Sierra Nevada's Pale Ale, Victory's Prima Pils, Brooklyn's Pilsner and Magic Hat's Hocus Pocus. My "its a cool night on the porch, the kids are in bed" beer is Dogfish Head's Indian Brown Ale, Brooklyn's Brown, Long Trail's Double Bag and Avery's New World Porter.

Now the rant. Why is it you can go to a Country Club, one that charges Tens of Thousands of Dollars to become and remain a member,one that still charges you several hundred dollars for each round of Golf with a guest, one where the Pro Shop will sell you a box of Titlest Pro VI golf balls for nearly $50.00 and yet the only beer available at any price is thin, fizzy, watery pale yellow beer?


Hmmm.

Respect for Beer

As a promoter of Beer I always try to encourage others to increase their respect for Beer. (Yes, I am a frequently a bore at parties when this topic comes up.) What does that entail you ask? Well it is hard to articulate precisely, but, a now deceased Supreme Court Justice once remarked on another topic: “I know it when I see it.” I can however give you some examples of disrespect that range from the mundane to the insane. You can connect the dots from there.

Example One - Drinking beer from the can or bottle. This is not a snobbery issue it is a genuine issue of proper treatment. Beer benefits from proper serving. Just as wines and spirits are best enjoyed from a proper glass, at an appropriate temperature and paired with the proper foods. Drinking a beer from a glass allows you to enjoy its color, clarity, head formation, aroma and liberates you from any hint of metallic taste imparted by touching the can as you sip from it.

Cans v. Bottles – Can beer tastes different. Beer from cans and beer from bottles are no different. They are the same recipe and given today’s advances in coating technology no aluminum taste is transferred to the beer. Even though cans chill faster, do not break, are lighter in weight, protect their contents from damaging light exposure, use fewer natural resources, recycle easier and take up less space in the cooler they are still less popular with the average beer drinker. Why is that? Long-standing myths that can beers taste metallic. Don’t trust me? Try a blind taste test. Buy a beer you know that comes in both cans and bottles, make sure they are close in freshness dates and invite your friends over. Pour side by side samples into two beer clean glasses for each guest and let me know what the consensus is. E-mail me at beerman@ahherald.com. Next time I see you on Sandy Hook you had better be toting cans and a polycarbonate tumbler or there is no beer for you today!

Boilermakers, Depth Charges – and similar mixed media efforts at intoxication. This weekend I was treated to the visual spectacle of a drink called an “Irish Car Bomb.” I did not drink one I assure you. Political annoyances aside, this struck me as alcohol abuse pure and simple. Curious? You take a pint of a fine Dry Stout like Guinness and a shot glass containing a shot of that respectable Irish Whisky, Bushmill’s and a splash of the famously overpriced Bailey’s Irish Cream. You drop the Bailey’s/Bushmill’s shot into the Guinness then chug this concoction for presumably explosive effect. Drinks such as this clearly demonstrate that with alcohol, as with food, a recipe does not always equal the sum of its parts. Guinness, Bailey’s and Bushmill’s on their own can be sipped, savored and enjoyed. Mixing them and the chugging them will get you drunk quickly, but any enjoyment you derive from this experience will be fleeting, though the ensuing hangover and the chance to drive the porcelain bus may last some time.

Beer Bongs – Shot-Gunning Beers. These are one and the same; the goal is to get the most beer into your stomach as quickly as possible. No taste, no smell, no savoring, just - whoosh and “get me another dude that was awesome.” How anyone could consider this respectful of beer or even enjoyable evades me. I consider this a recipe for disaster. There was a lad in Australia that took this a step further and linked a reservoir and tube to a power drill to automate the process. He punctured his esophagus and made headlines. Enough said.

The Smoke Gets in Your Beer

I know what you are thinking and no, this is not the blog where I discuss the pleasures of smoky bars, good cigars and women of indifferent virtue. This is my invitation to those of you that are up to a real adventure in your exploration of beer styles.

Let’s start our journey in the Fulda Gap. Any of you Cold Warriors out there will know that this is the region in Central Western Germany that the Soviet Juggernaut was poised to traverse on its way to the Rhine and thence World Domination … Well, smack dab on that axis of advance, about 20 clicks east of Wurzburg lies the sleepy little city of Bamberg. Spared the ravages of two world wars, Bamberg with its canals and quaint city center it is often called the Venice of the North. Bamberg is also the home of Rauchbier.

The Rauchbier (literally “smoke beer”) style is an old beer style; its origins go back to the 1500's. It's typically a dark beer with a malty profile. Rauchbier bears a passing similarity to Oktoberfest bier. There is a difference though; to make a Rauchbier, a portion of the grain used includes barley that is dried over an open fire of beech wood, and this process imparts a unique smokiness to the malts. This smoked malt produces beers with a smoke flavor so robust, so assertive, that it tastes as if the beer has been smoked. The burning beech wood imparts a smoky aroma and taste, much like that of the pit-barbecue found in some parts of the United States. If you have no idea what I am talking about get thee down to the Memphis Pig Out on First Avenue, in our little Bamberg on the Bay. But first visit a well stocked liquor store and grab a bottle or two of Braueri Heller-Trum’s Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier http://www.schlenkerla.de/ to enjoy with your repast. This is a style that pairs well with our native barbecue. Paired up with some pulled pork, chicken, ribs, brisket, sausage or my personal favorite KC style burnt ends and you have a winner. Heller-Trum makes several styles of Rauchbier but I have only seen the Marzen, Ur-bock and Weizen locally.

There our other smoked beer styles. Some utilize varying portions of malt kilned over peat much like that used in Scots Whisky. While the smokiness is not as assertive in these beers they are unique and flavorful in their own right. Unibroue’s Raftman and Magic Hat’s http://www.magichat.net/ Jinx are two such beers. Rogue Ales http://www.rogue.com/ “Smoke Beer” uses malt kilned over alder wood. The portion of the grain bill that is actually “smoked” is fairly modest, so the smokiness is there but it is not nearly as powerful as it on a Bamberg Rauchbier.

If you don’t think Smoked Beer is your thing you still need to get a ‘cue fix at the Memphis Pig Out. You can pair that repast with a more traditional pilsner style if you must. Consider Victory Brewing Prima Pils … Yummy. Locally, you must try Heavyweight’s Cinder Bock http://heavyweight-brewing.com

Until next time … Think Global and Drink Local.

The Dreaded Beer Slump - And the Cure

Well it has happened. Every once in a while I get into a slump. A time when I just cannot decide what beer to drink, all brews taste insipid and offer no relief from what ales me. This is usually induced by attendance at a function where no decent brews are available and my primal tastes are aroused then beaten senseless by a dram or two of the distilled stuff. This happened to yours truly over the weekend. We were on our way to the Atlantic Highlands PBA Ball when...

We stopped at the Fortier's on Fourth Avenue to savor the rich beers of the Berkshire Brewing Company http://www.berkshirebrewingcompany.com/ . Mike, the publican at this members only establishment, serves Berkshire Brews on Tap (and in 22 ounce Bomber Bottles if you are very nice to him). Mike has singularly shared with me these divine brews on many occassions. It is thanks to this noble, yet humble soul, that I have been able to enjoy nearly the full product line of these brewer/artisan's. Their products range from strong ales of heroic complexity to their "Traditional", a wonderful mild, session brew. Well, as it happens Mike was serving Steel Rail Extra Pale Ale, one of the Berkshire line that arouses one's palate and says only one word to me: "More". So we had two tall ones and dawdled down the Hill to the Ball.

We all grabbed beers, all watery yellow concoctions and after one Bud Light (I know, I know and there were witnesses too ... ahh the shame and horror)I was compelled to seek solace in a glass of Bombay Sapphire Gin. The botanical aroma and alcoholic warmth of the ice cold gin as it passed my lips was inescapable, sublime and wonderful. What followed can only be best described as a batting slump. Despite some CPR in the form of more Steel Rail on the walk home thier was no hope, the intrepid Beerman was flatlining.

Over the next couple of days repeated trips to the Legendary Beer Only Fridge yielded experiences that can best be compared to kissing ones sibling. The beer drinking experience that these visits yielded is best described as chaste, proper, respectful and utterly devoid of emotional attachment. No glorius flights of hop fancy in the IPA's, no rich rewarding coffee notes in the Brooklyn Chocolate Stout, no sweet malts in the Dussel Alt, no biscuity palate in the Long Trail Ale. Blah, Blah, Blah. Woe is me.

There is one light at the end of the tunnel however. A remedial drink so elegant and simple. A blissful beverage so pure and divine that while I know the slump will pass I am in no hurry to see it end. That saving Grace is, of course, the Plymouth Gin Very Dry Martini.

The Cure for the Beer Slump:

Take two 6 ounce cocktail glasses rinse and place in the freezer. 10 minutes should do it.

Half-Fill a steel shaker with fresh ice, no runny stuff from an ice bucket, get it right from the freezer if you must.

Add to the shaker 3 ounces of Plymouth Original Strength Gin, and a scant capful of Martini and Rossi Dry Vermouth or other quality dry vermouth.

Skewer and place three stuffed queen size olives on a small plate, (pimento, jalapeno, bleu cheese, almonds, anchovies or onion all work for me). I Do not put them into the drink, rather I leave them on the side.

Vigorously shake the Gin, Ice and Vermouth together until the the shaker is covered with with a heavy coating of frost on the outside (about two minutes). You will need to use a clean bar towel to hold the shaker if you do this right as your hands will get quite cold.

Remove one frosty cocktail glass from the fridge and strain the milky white slush into it. Then Sit on your front porch, take a nibble of an olive, and take your first ice cold sip of the cure for the Beer Slump. Repeat as neccessary. If symptoms persist for more than 2 weeks, switch to Manhattans or Margarita's.

Man (or Woman) cannot live on beer alone.


Think Local and Drink Global

Lambic, Gueuze and Wit

These are three beer styles that are unique to Belgium. They share some common characteristics but are very different styles. I am typing this at my desk in New York City at 7:16 a.m. I will describe each style in some detail, this evening, after the kids are settled in their beds I will uncork and decant a Gueze and share the experience with you all.

Straight Lambic is a wheat beer that has been spontaneously fermented. While wheat beers are not that unusual, the wheat used for Lambic is unmalted. This requires that that the Wort be boiled for 4-6 hours to break down the sugars to a fermentable state. During the boil huge quantities of aged hops are added. The Hops are aged to reduce the aroma and bitterness imparted to the beer. The preservative qualities of the Hops survive the aging process however. The mash is now cooled and left to spontaneously ferment using the wild yeasts resident in the brewery, and thanks to the slatted roof and sides of the traditional buildings, the environs of Flanders where the style is brewed. This is an unpredictable process and the wild yeasts impart a sour fruitness that are the hallmarks of this style. The wild yeasts yield a rapid and vigorous primary fermentation lasting about 6 days, this is followed by a secondary fermentation over a period of several months. Both fermentations take place in wooden casks that were previously used for claret, port or sherry. The casks add another layer of complexity to the resultant brew. Young Lambic (referred to as "foxy" or "vos" in the local dialect)can be served at 3-6 months but true Lambic is cask matured for two years. The resultant Lambic is then distributed straight in cask or(less commonly) bottle. The Lambic will be virtually uncarbonated and quite tart.

Much Lambic is shipped to blenders who will create "Gueuze" from the blending of several Lambics. Unblended Lambic is a not that common in this country but you can usually locate a bottle of Lindemann's http://www.lindemans.be/ at the better beer stores such as Spirit's Unlimited in Red Bank or SuperSaver on Route 22 in Somerville. Expect to pay $4-5 for a 12 ounce bottle $8-9 for a 750 ml.

As mentioned above, most Lambic is blended to form another style of Beer called a Gueuze. The simplest blend is a mature and a new Lambic. The young Lambic, which contains some unfermented sugars, induces further fermentation and provides a subtle sweetness to offset the tartness of the mature Lambic. If the fermentation is in a bottle the Guezue will, unlike most Lambics be nicely carbonated, with a dryish yet fruity flavor.

Kriek is another blended Lambic where the additon of sour cherries induces a further fermentation. Kriek is an elegant beer. It is bottle conditioned and finished with a cork and cage. It pours a translucent pink with a pink tinged head. The taste is tart, sour cherry with some subtle malt notes. This beer is best enjoyed chilled from a stemmed champagne flute. Lambic can be blended with other fruit but Kriek (Cherries) and Framboise (Rasberries) are traditional. Lindeman's Kriek and Framboise can be readily found in most better stores. Expect to pay $4-5 for a 12 ounce bottle $7-9 for a 750 ml.

Wit or Belgian White beer is a style that was extinct until revivied by Pierre Celis in the early 1980's. That beer was called Hogaarden and is now readily available throught the local area. Mr. Celis went on to sell the brewery to a large conglomerate and opened a new brewery oustide of Austin, Texas. The eponomously named Celis Brewery produced some great beers until the brewery was sold to Miller Brewing who closed it down a few months after the sale. The Brand lives on with the name and recipe being owned by the Michigan Brewing Company. What of Mr. Celis? Why he is back in Belgium brewing new beers with a new start-up brewing operation. Expect great things from Pierre in the future.

But what exactly is Witbier or White Beer? Like Lambic, Wit uses Wheat that is un-malted (45%), there is also an additon of some Oats 5% also unmalted and the balance of the grain bill is malted Barley. During fermentation an ale yeast is used and some unusual ingredients are added to flavor the brew: Coriander and Curacao Orange peels; other spices such as cumin may be added depending on the brand. Prior to bottling, another yeast strain is added to bottle condition the beer, which is cellared for a few months prior to distribution. Brooklyn Brewery http://www.brooklynbrewery.com/ and Allagash Brewery http://www.allagash.com/ make two very respectable beers of this type. I have had the Brooklyn on tap and found it very refreshing and tasty. Expect to pay 7-8 dollars for a six pack of these brews. Hogaarden is in the same price range and very accessible for someone trying to expand their beer horizons.

Tonight as a treat I decided to crack open a bottle of Gueuze. The brand "Oud Beersel Oude Geuze Vielle" 16 ounce dark green bottle with a cork and cage closure.

The beer poured into the octagonal tumbler I chose, clear golden with a very slight amber hue. Abundant carbonation. The head was thick and creamy and persisted till the beer was finished and left thick brewers lace on the glass sides and bottom.

The aroma was fruity with sour apples, cherries and perhaps some ripe pineapple aroma. The aroma became acidic and sour with distinct earthiness and some wet oak.

The flavor was light with sour acidity leading followed by a light and persistent tart sourness. The flavor was also fruity, with no particular fruit distinguishable. The sourness was interesting and complex but not overdone.

The finish was dry with lasting fruitiness The body was medium. I expected a bit more aroma and flavor and certainly more sourness, but this is a drinkable and refreshing beer.

Best before date was June of 2026... no kidding. This is a beer you can cellar for a while.

AHHH! Bock

Anyone that watched M.A.S.H. with any consistency will remember the episode where Radar was trying to act sophisticated to win the favors of a lady. To this end he affected a love of all things sophisticated, such as classical music. He practiced the utterance “Ahhh Bach” to show his love of the grand masters music. But I digress; this is about the beer and not music or television. Like the music of Bach, bock beer is deep, rich, sophisticated and has many variations on the same theme.

What exactly is a Bock Beer? Well let me tell you what it is not. It is not a beer that is brewed using the results of the “annual clearing” of the breweries pipes, tanks or the use of last seasons leftover grain. This urban legend still persists and is patently false. Breweries are scrupulously clean operations and are constantly being cleaned as anything less than absolute cleanliness risks spoiling the beer.

Bock beer (Bockbier) is a particular style of beer that originated in the town of Einbeck in Germany. It is a “lager” styled beer that is fermented at cooler temperatures over a long period of time. For many beer lovers, "bockbier" is the highlight of the Lenten fasting period that precedes Easter. Consequently, it is during this period that many breweries produce their strong, maltier bock beers. This nourishing specialty enjoys a long tradition: Centuries ago it was drunk by the Bavarian monks to help them survive the long Lent fasting season. After all, they reasoned: "liquid nourishment doesn't break our fasting oath".

For many breweries, bock beer is seen as the very pinnacle of the brewer's art. Almost every German brewery worthy of its name therefore includes a bock in its product range. Despite regional variations - slightly lighter in color in northern Germany and darker in the south - all bock beers have at least two things in common, higher alcohol content (around 5-7%) and a malty aroma. For those looking for something a little stronger, there's also a style called "Doppelbock" 7-9% alcohol and for the truly adventurous there is the legendary “Eisbock” with upwards of ten percent alcohol content. There are also Weizenbocks that have a significant amount of wheat added to an otherwise all malt brew. Roggenbocks, add Rye and there are versions that use smoked malt as well.

There are numerous legends surrounding the history of bock beer. Many people often wonder why monks - of all people - were allowed to drink such strong beer during their fasts. (Do you think it had something to do with being cloistered in an unheated, stone abbey with little to do besides create illuminated manuscripts? Add to this the fact that there were no women around to tell them to “put their clothes in the hamper and put the seat down?” Perhaps there may be some truth to this. Another popular tale explains how the monks arranged for Papal approval of this indulgence. Apparently the monks transported a barrel of the beer over the Alps to distant Rome in order to convince the "Holy Father" of its suitability for fasting. When the beer eventually reached the Pope, however, it had turned sour and was undrinkable. The Pope tasted the foul brew and had no qualms about permitting the monks to use the beer as liquid penance/sustenance during Lent. (Okay let’s agree to give this one a three on the 1 to 10 scale of truth or fiction. But it makes for a nice tale, and as these things go may contain a “grain” of truth…no pun intended.

Other sources claim that the beer has nothing to do with fasting. On the contrary, the Paulaner monks brewed it to celebrate the name day of their order's founder, Saint Francis of Paula (the Second day of April). The fact is that in 1751 the Paulaner monks received permission to produce and market a maltier beer called "St. Vaterbier", which was gradually changed to "Salvatorbier". After many other breweries had followed suit and called their own strong ales "Salvator", the monks succeeded in patenting the name in 1894. This led to a veritable boom in beers ending in "-ator" - even today, there are said to be over 200 Bavarian strong ales with the "-ator" suffix, including Maximator, Celebrator http://www.ayinger-bier.de , and Optimator today. Today you can buy these as well as Paulaner Salvator year round, though most aficionados agree that it is a Doppelbock not a straight bock beer.

But what about Einbeck? You know the place where the style originated? They still make bock beer there too. And it is the beer of Einbeck that sustained Martin Luther during his stay there. The bocks of Einbeck bear the appellation “Ur” for “original” and should be tried. Einbecker www.einbecker-brauhaus.de makes some fine examples of the style.

Here are some picks for you to start your exploration of this style with:

Bock Einbecker Ur-Bock Dunkel (dark) or Hell (light)

Doppelbock Samuel Adam’s Double Bock http://www.samadams.com , Paulaner Salvator http://www.paulaner.de/

Eisbock EKU 28 Kulminator http://www.kulmbacher.de/

Weizen-bock Aventinus* www.schneider-weisse.de/

Weizen Eisbock Aventinus Weizen-Eisbock*

All of these brews are available locally. Consider Spirits Unlimited on Newman Springs Road in Red bank as a one-stop place to get all of them. Other local venues may have one or more of them as well. Buy-Rite in Atlantic Highlands has the Sam Adam’s Double Bock for sure.

Next time we will talk about glassware for beer, cleaning a beer glass and the proper pour.

Four Simple Ingredients

If your still awake by the time you get to this part of the Herald I am humbled by your fortitude and honored by your perseverance. I am sipping at a goblet of Weyerbacher, Heresy, this is a oak barrel aged Imperial Stout brewed by the Weyerbacher Brewery in Easton Pennsylvania. This is a

powerful brew full of complex flavors and the product of a painstaking process that involves hours of mashing, weeks of fermentation and months of aging, the culmination is a brew of heroic proportions that one can savor over the course of an hour or two. This is not your typical lawnmower beer; this is a beer for Tolstoy.

We have talked about the history and the ingredients; let’s tackle the general brewing process before we get involved in the individual styles. From time to time I may blurt out comments on the Weyerbacher so be warned. If you are under 21 skip ahead to the next paragraph.

Oddly enough we start by boiling some water (for some reason called liquor by the brewers) in a big pot called a “mash tun” into this water we add malted barley that has been ground and sieved into “grist.” The grist is added into the liquor and the resultant porridge like mess is called the “mash” This mash is boiled for some time. The duration of the boil will vary depending on the style of beer and the grains used. This could be several hours. The object being to break down and dissolve the fermentable materials (sugars) in the grist so that when the mash is decocted or strained as much of the sugar as possible will be dissolved into the liquor. The mash is drawn off the grist and the resultant clarified liquid is now called the “wort.” At this point the boiling wort is transferred to a second vessel called the “brew kettle” and is ready for hopping.

The Weyerbacher poured an elegant dark mahogany with a two finger deep chestnut head that was tightly beaded and rapidly faded to a slender ring at the edges of the goblet. The color is opaque when held up to the light, though soft highlights are evident near the very edges. This is a dark and foreboding brew, its inky darkness beckons the curious to take a long pull and savor…

The wort is re-heated in the brew kettle and hops are added at various times during this boil. If they are added early in the boil they tend to make the beer more bitter or dryer, if added later in the boil the major effect is aromatic. Sometimes they are added at separate times so that both effects are obtained. At the conclusion of this boil the hops are strained from the wort. This is the conclusion of the “brewing” part of the process.

The aroma of the Weyerbacher is vinous: ripe fruit, alcohol, almost burgundy like. Some earth and some oak notes… I am struck by the similarity between this brew and a burgundy or cabernet…

The wort is passed through a chiller to bring it to a temperature appropriate for the style; 60 –70 Fahrenheit for ales, cooler temps for lagers. The wort is moved to a large tank called a “primary fermenter” and then the yeast is pitched into the cooled wort and the primary fermentation process commences. Primary fermentation will proceed for a week or more for ales and three to five weeks (or longer) for some lagers. During this time the yeast breaks down most of the sugars converting it to CO2 and ethyl alcohol. When the primary fermentation is complete the beer is filtered (or not) and ultimately transferred to bottles or casks. Some beers may have a small amount of malt or sugar added to allow it to undergo a secondary fermentation in the bottle, such beers are said to be “bottle conditioned.”

The Weyerbacher’s taste mirrors the aroma, earth, oak, wine like grapes, strong alcohol, and some bitter hop notes…This beer style, the “Imperial Stout” has a rich and storied past. It is said that Peter the Great, Tsar or Russia fell in love with the British bitter and dark beers during his visits to the British Isles. He insisted on having this beer brought to the Imperial Court.” The aptly named A. Le. Coq (a Belgian) was appointed purveyor to the Tsars and this Stout was brewed with extra hops and a high alcohol content to enable it to survive the sea voyage from England across the North Sea, through the Baltic to St. Petersburg and the ensuing overland journey to Moscow. This interpretation by our friends in Easton, Pennsylvania may just be very much like the original. Down to the time spent on oak…today this style survives in the Baltic Porters of Carnegie (Sweden) and Synebrichoff (Finland) as well as or own local artisan brewer Heavyweight, in Ocean Township. For me, a student of history, Heavyweight’s Perkuno’s Hammer recalls the days of the Romanov dynasty … Elegant Waltzes… Hussar Pelisses swirl to the music of Tchaikovsky, Rimsky-Korsakov and Borodin, a delicately carved, Ancient, Volga Sturgeon cooked to perfection and mountains of Caspian Sea Caviar accompanied by frozen Vodka and the rich dark beer brought all the way from the “Thames Pool”… by a Belgian whose name began with three letters… A. Le.

Now as promised I have received some kind e-mail and some suggestions for recipes/food pairings and places to enjoy a good glass of beer, or just some beer nostalgia. Here are a few for you to enjoy. Thank you all and keep those e-mails coming.

Virginia wrote:

good show....have loved beer 4 many a year....must drink less ,but can still enjoy folklore, aroma, small sips, and fun just knowing....live out west lots of micro breweries.....will b good to see what east can offer...will visit as many as i can ....spent time in Keansburg at Old Heidelberg...like tap beer best....thanks 4 the column....

John wrote:

“started my working years as a chemist at P. Ballentine and Sons, Newark, NJ. I was fresh out of the Army in March of 1953. I spent 13 years there and your details on the brewing process brought back a great many memories. Along with the regular light beers, they also brewed India Pale Ale, which aged on a bed of hops for one year, and Burton Ale which was not sold, but given as Christmas gifts to friends of the owners, the Badenhausen family”.

Thank you for a great column every week in the Herald.

(John, you can still get Ballentine Pale Ale here in the Garden State. Will pick some up for review in a future column)

Patrick Wrote:

“Forget wine with cheese, drink beer. Here's a combo I just learned - Stilton cheese on a cracker, I chose a water cracker. Top it with this mix of dried fruit - cranberries (craisans), apricots, and mangoes chopped into tiny little bits. mix in a bowl with some chopped walnuts and then drizzle with honey. (I'm sure you could experiment with the fruit) The Stilton cheese is a very strong type of blue veined cheese; the sweetness in the above mix compliments it excellently.

Drink with a nice Weiss beer dressed with a slice of lemon, I drink Franziskaner.”

The Brewer's Art

The brewing process is deceptively simple and straight forward. Beer generally has four simple ingredients: Water, Cereal Grains, Yeast and Hops. Subtle differences in each ingredient, as well as the timing of the brewing process can result in wide variations in flavor.

Water is the easiest and least complex ingredient. Despite the claims of certain brewers it generally adds little to the beer. Whether it is the “Artesian” water used in Olympia Beer, or the Rocky Mountain Spring Water used in Coors. The simple fact is that most beers today use sterilized and filtered water. Certain styles of beer use mineral additives to soften the water and change the profile of the beer. The beers Burton on Trent are often noted for their soft-water tang. These are the exception and not the rule.

Cereal grains are the “guts” of the beer. Aside from being the source of the fermentable sugar the grains impart color, body, head retention and taste. The grain of choice is two-row barley but just about any grain imaginable can and is used, as are syrups and various sugars. Most craft brews use only barley. Most of the Major Brewers use some barley, but also corn, rice, and processed extracts and sugars. These non-barley grains and syrups are called “adjuncts”. To talk about each type of grain and what it contributes to a brew is however way too complicated for most people. I will give you a link at the end of the article where you explore each such ingredient in great detail. For the rest of the article we will talk exclusively about “All- Malt” brews.

What is all this talk about “Malts” and “Malted Barley?” Barley, while fermentable without malting is too starchy. You can brew with it but the resulting brew will taste “grainy” and will contain lots of un-fermentable starch. To convert the starch into something fermentable you need to malt it. The dried grain is steeped in water to induce germination and then kilned to convert the starches into sugars and other soluble substances. The majority of malt used in beer is kilned to a light color, and if used alone will result in a paler beer.

Now, a word or two about beers “color.” As mentioned above a beer gets its color from the malt. The “grain bill” or the amount and proportions of grain used in a beer is typically composed of a base of pale malted barley with other styles of malt added to give the beer a deeper color and impart some flavoring.. The amount of toasting the malted barley receives increases the darkness of the malt and consequently of the beer. Colors ranging from light amber, through chestnut brown to nearly black (think Guinness.) I am sure you have heard this old saw “Oh I don’t like dark beers they are too heavy.” People see dark; they assume “Heavy.” In fact the color and the “body” of a brew are not related. Guinness “Pub Draught” in the can or bottle is lighter in body (and carbohydrates) than most of the pale yellow, fizzy beers that the major brewers sell. A small portion of dark roasted malt gives Guinness (http://www.guinness.com ) its distinctive dark color, and imparts a roasted coffee taste as well. Interestingly the dark roasted malt is largely un-fermentable so it adds little beyond color and taste. The “heft” found in some beers come from the amount of grain used and not it’s color. In fact the darker the grain the less fermentable material it retains. As counterpoints consider Belgian Trippel Ales such as Duvel (http://www.duvel.be) which despite the pale color is a relatively hefty beer in terms of the amount grains used.

Hops? Specifically, Humulus Lupulus are the flowering cones of a perennial vine. Hops are a member of the hemp family and thus a cousin of the cannabis plant (sorry no THC in this stuff). Hops typically thrive in climates similar to the ones that grapes do. Hop plants are dioecious, meaning the males and females flower on separate plants -- and the female cones are used in the brewing process. Hops are a natural preservative and were first used to ward-off spoilage. They also impart a pleasant dryness or bitterness to beer to balance out the sweet malts. Ever so versatile they also lend a hand in head retention, help to clear the beer (acting as a natural filter) and add a pleasant aroma.

There are many varieties of hops, each with unique characteristics. Some are used for bittering and others for their aroma. The “Noble Hops” of which Jim Koch. brewer of Sam Adams ( http://www.samadams.com ), speaks are the hops originally used in German and Czech Beers. The Noble Hops include three main cultivars, the Saaz variety for bittering, the Tettang variety for aroma and the Hallertau variety for a little of both. In American craft brews Oregon and California grown hops play a major role. The Cascade variety imparts a herbal aroma and a citrus bitterness to beers and is a key ingredient in many West Coast Craft beers such as Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (http://www.sierra-nevada.com ).

The fourth ingredient in beer is the catalyst of the brewing process…(cue the grey haired monotone guy in a lab coat …) “Yeast. Yeast is a single-celled microorganisms that reproduces by budding. It is biologically classified as fungi and is responsible for converting fermentable sugars into alcohol and other byproducts. There are literally hundreds of varieties and strains of yeast. In the past, there were two types of beer yeast: ale yeast (the "top-fermenting" type, Saccharomyces cerevisiae) and lager yeast (the "bottom-fermenting" type, Saccharomyces uvarum, formerly known as Saccharomyces carlsbergensis). Today, as a result of recent reclassification of Saccharomyces species, both ale and lager yeast strains are considered to be members of S. cerevisiae. (Cue shaggy haired surfer) “Whoa too much information dude.”

For now just know this: The variety of yeast used effects the beers flavor greatly. If you care to experiment just compare a German unfiltered wheat beer, such as Weihenstephaner Hefeweisbeer where the yeast is among the predominant flavors to a filtered Wheat Beer such as WeihenstephanerKrystall. http://www.brauerei-weihenstephan.de. Gee, Beer Dude why did you just spend all that time writing about malted barley and wrap up your discussion with a wheat beer? Sit down, or I won’t give you any homework…and that means no beer for you.

All the beers mentioned in this article (along with at least 580 other varieties) are available at the Spirits Unlimited on Newman Springs Road in Red Bank My main sources for this Article were Michael Jackson’s The New World Guide to Beer (http://www.beerhunter.com/) and the Beer 101 Section of Beer Advocate.com (http://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/101/)

Beer Glasses

What is the best glass to drink beer from? There is no simple short answer. You want a glass that will present the beer at its best, showcase its appearance, concentrate it’s aromas and allow you to experience its flavors. Below I have provided images and descriptions of some of the many styles of glass that are available. I have also listed some of the advantages associated with each style of glass and provided some suggestions on what beers to fill them with. Special thanks for the format and the images should be directed to BeerAdvocate.com. The prose and the beer choices are however my own and I trust they will inspire you to broaden your beer horizons. Regardless of the type of beer, always drink a beer from a glass and not from a can or bottle. To fully enjoy the product as the brewer intended it you must see it and smell it. This applies to the cheapest Macro Brew and the priciest Trappist Ale.

Flute Glass


Certain types of beer, notably Fruit Lambics such as Lindeman’s Kriek and Lindeman’s Framboise are best showcased in a champagne type flute. Long and narrow glasses ensure that carbonation doesn't dissipate too quickly and showcase this styles lively carbonation and sparkling color (a bright pink in the case of the Kriek). An added benefit is that the shape induces a beer to give off its carbonation at a steady rate for a more intense aroma.

Goblet (or Chalice)


Many of the stronger Belgian and Trappist styles such as Chimay Grand Cru are best enjoyed from a Goblet or a heavy and thick walled Chalice. Some glasses of this style have an etched design at the bottom of the glass designed to maintain a beers head. The etching attracts CO2 and creates a steady stream of bubbles that thereby induces longer head retention. If left to its own devices for a time, the shape of the etching will be mirror imaged in the dense foam of the beers head. The Goblet and Chalice are both wide-mouthed permitting deep sips of the flavorful and aromatic brews within.



Mug (or Seidel, Stein)


Mugs are fun, easy to drink out of and often hold plenty of beer. Mugs are more about fun than elegance, though I have some Tiffany Mugs that are a bit of both. To me, the best mugs are clear glass and allow the drinker to visually enjoy the brew as well as go a long time between refills. Mugs favor so-called “session beers”. The beers of the times when you’re having more than just one … like that Oktoberfest Party.

Paulaner Oktober Fest is a great mug beer, as is Harpoon’s October Fest and the beers of Climaax Brewing in Roselle Park, New Jersey.

Pilsner Glass (or Pokal)


A tall, slender and tapered glass, typically very narrow at the base, sometimes having a shot stem. This type of glass showcases the active carbonation and pale malt colors of a Pilsner styled beer while the shape also works with the carbonation in maintaining the beers head. A Pokal is a European Pilsner styled glass with a stem. Both glass types, like the flute, enhance the prolonged release of the aroma within the beer enhancing the drinking experience, which in the case of a Pilsner can be very delicate. My Grandfathers favorite glasses were his Rheingold Pilsners. When it comes to Pilsners one of the best is out there is Victory Brewing’s Prima Pils.

Pint Glass (or Becker, Nonic, Tumbler)


Near cylindrical, with a slightly tapered base and a wide-mouth. When an Englishman goes out for a “jar or two with his mates” this is the preferred style. This is my facvorite glass for casual drinking. There are three basic types of pint glass: The heavy “Libby” pint glasses so common in brew pub bars today. Also known as a “Shaker Tumbler” or Mixing Glass to us old geezers. The traditional ”Nonic” British Pint (jar) that has a slight ridge towards the top (see image) this ridge acts as a grip of sorts. Lastly, the Becker (becher, or Willibecher) which is the German equivalent, tapering at the bottom and less so at the top, bowed out slightly in the middle. Pint glasses are easy to drink out of and generally more stable than the stemmed glassware styles. Pint Glasses are more elegant than a mug and in my mind more comfortable to hold over a long period of time. One possible downside is that the beer warms up faster as you have no handle to keep your hand insulated from the glass proper. This is easily remedied by drinking faster. As pints they are typically clear glass you can visually enjoy your beer. Most ales and lagers do well in a pint glass. I prefer the thinner glassed Nonic and Becher styles to the heavy Libby pints. Though I keep all three types on hand.

Snifter


Not just for Brandy, these wide-bowled short stemmed glasses with their tapered mouths are perfect for capturing the aromas of strong ales as they warm. Sizes vary, but they should provide enough room to swirl and agitate the brew and release the aroma. Try using a snifter with an Eisbock such as Aventinus or EKU 28, a Barley wine such as Heavyweight’s “Old Salty”, Brooklyn Brewing’ s “Monster” and Victory’s “Old Horizontal” or some of the stronger Belgian offerings such as Rochefort 10.



Stange (Slender Cylinder)


This style is a hard to come by traditional German glass. Stange translates in English as "stick" and these delicate, slender cylinders are used to serve more delicate beers. An acceptable substitute for a stange is a Tom Collins glass. This is the glass used for a “Alt” style ales such as or Uerirge Alt or Long Trail Ale (Long Trail Brewing, Vermont). This style glass also favors a Kolsch style summer beer such as Reissdorf or Gaffel. Most are rather small (.2 liter) and very thin walled. A cool glass of Kolsch on a hot evening in Atlantic Highlands is a sublime experience.

Tulip


A stemmed glass, the top of the glass pushes out a bit to form a lip in order to capture the head and the body is bulbous. Duvel’s signature glass is an oversized tulip. This style favors the more complex brews that have a complex bouquet but the flared top also supports a vigorous head which is not necessarily something you want in a brandy-style snifter. Some “Belgian” Scotch Ales are often served in a "thistle glass," which is a modified tulip glass that roughly resembles Scotland's national flower. Though in frugal Scotland itself such finery is rarely seen, the traditional Nonic pint is what is most often encountered there. Try Sam Adams Scotch Ale if you can find it from such a glass. The peat smoked malt makes for a delightful if someone different aroma.





Weizen Glass


On a sweltering day In Atlantic Highlands nothing beats a tall glass brimming with Weizenbier (wheat beer) or Weizenbock in an tall shapely Weizen Glass. These glasses, with their thin walls and softly curvaceous length, showcase the beer's hazy sunshine color and provides accommodation (temporarily)for a half liter of fragrant (banana and cloves), refreshing ale and also allows sufficient space to contain the dense, creamy head intrinsic to the lighter wheat beers. Most glasses are over 0.5L in size, with slight variations in shape. Oh and pass on the lemon garnish if offered, the oils in the lemon zest will kill the head. At home, be certain to rinse the glass with cool water right before you pour as this will keep the head manageable. My picks? Anything Ramstein (High Point Brewing, Butler NJ).




Where Do I get Glassware?

When it comes to Brewery Logo Glasses, I get mine online at the Global Beer Network and Johns Grocery in Iowa or locally at Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank or other local beer stores as part of Holiday Gift sets. Garage Sales also are a good source. Generic glasses are available at Crate and Barrel, Pier One Imports and Williams and Sonoma. And there is always e-bay…

How do I care for my cherished beer glasses?

Hand-wash all glasses in hot water. Do not put them in an automatic dishwasher as most dishwashers will leave a residue, which may affect the head retention as well as the flavor and aroma. Use a mild dishwashing soap, and if you are really anal retentive have a separate sponge for your glassware so there is not cross contamination from greasy food particles on a used sponge. Let them air dry, do not hand dry because the towel may leave dust particles which will affect the head retention. Caring for you glassware in this manner will also protect gold or silver- rimmed glasses and glasses with silk-screened brewery logos.

Cheers and happy hunting.

Think global and drink local. Next time we will discuss the proper pour and perhaps I may do a field trip or something.