Do America's Craft Brewers Get It?

I received an interesting e-mail from the author of several books on beer and brewing in response to my last column. I want to thank the writer for his insight and for providing me with the inspiration for this week’s column. The writer’s position is that not only do the large brewing establishments not “get it” the, craft brewing industry does not quite “get it” either. On reflection, I think he raises some excellent points and I am inclined to agree with many of them. The main thrust of his argument is that the craft brewers and their fans should spend less time focusing on their criticism of the big three and their products and more time trying to expand the market share of craft beer. He provided an excellent analogy to the domestic wine industry.

As many of you will recall in the 1970’s and 80’s it was not uncommon to overhear many people ordering a carafe of “red” or “white.” Today, when a specific bottle from a wine list is not being ordered, we generally hear a varietals name such as Merlot, Burgundy, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio etc. The wine industry has educated the public such that today most of us know that there are many varieties of wine within each color grouping. How do craft brewers intend to get to the point where the discerning beer drinker knows that there is a big difference between an India Pale Ale and a Pilsner? That not all dark beers are heavy and bitter? How do craft brewers get the public to order by style and not by brand? The answer, of course, is by educating your consumers.

My two cents. As with the domestic wine industry the domestic craft brewing industry is made up of a disparate range of small to medium and large brewers. Consider the New Jersey Scene: On one end of the spectrum you have local brew-pubs like Basil T’s in Red Bank that do not bottle their beer, though you can buy a growler and take some home, you have niche type small batch brewers like Heavyweight in Ocean Township, and then there are the larger craft brewers that distribute in several states like River Horse in Lambertville and Flying Fish in Cherry Hill. What these folks all need is a common ad campaign. Much like the ad campaigns of the dairy farmers and the National Cattleman’s Beef Association. Perhaps they need to coin a snappy phrase like: “Got Milk?” or “Beef, Its Whats for Dinner.” A smart, yet down to earth advertising campaign aimed at promoting the history and culture of American brewing and the virtues of each of the different varieties of ales and lagers. Consider showcasing the pairing of craft beer and fine dining. Sure it’s tough to beat a glass of Pilsner and a slice of Pepperoni Pizza, but how about a Belgian White with a plate of Mussels? Pairing a glass of Dry Stout with a dozen oysters? The combination of Chicken Sate’ and American Pale Ale?

What are your thoughts? How would you get folks to drink better beer? How would you convince the big three that there is value in brewing a more flavorful beer?