Pumpkin Ales and Holiday Brews

The wind along the Bay shore is ripping the tops off the waves as we race across the Sandy Hook Bay on our way to Lower Manhattan. Inside the passenger compartment of the Seastreak Highlands we are warm and dry. The windows are sheathed with salt slush and the only view to be had is through the stern glazing...35 minutes later safely ensconced at my desk overlooking Water Street I ponder the season and the sights and smells of the holidays. My last posting struck a somber tone as our economy started its nose-dive seemingly to oblivion. Now, I am cautiously optimistic or 2009 and beyond.

In my mind I had formulated a rather lengthy pumpkin ale based post and a holiday ale based one as well. Alas, the season got away from me and both posts will be merged. After all they are more, or less, variations on the same theme.

Let's start with the brewers "homage" to the mighty gourd. That orange globe that is at once heroic in size and decidedly bland in palate. Pumpkin is an ingredient but not a star performer, it is canvas and not paint. It has some earthy qualities but it needs to be flavored to be noticed. Looking at some of the examples that are out there consider there is Dogfish Head "Punkin" a 7% behemoth with a palate of cloves and Cinnamon, perhaps some mace painted on an earthy yeasty background. Not an everyday drinking beer but pleasant enough and very approachable as a warmer for a cool October evening. Nothing overpowering in this one, nicely balanced, the hops and malty sweetness are paired and balanced with the spice mix and a whiff of boozy alcohol. Punkin is somewhere on the extreme end of the palate. Of more normal proportions are the offerings from Brooklyn (5% ABV "Post Road Pumpkin") and Smuttynose 's "Pumpkin Ale." Both are caramel colored subtle mixtures of holiday spice and sweet malt. Reviewer's often claim that "pumpkin taste" is discernable. My palate is not sensitive enough to pick out the earthiness of the mighty gourd - but the cognoscenti say they are there. Both are drinkable and subtle enough to make these offerings drinkable over the course of an evening. If variety is the spice of life these brews are significantly different enough to be a nice diversion for an otherwise jaded palate.

Consider pairing these with poultry and beef as well as that staple holiday dessert - pumpkin pie - of course. I might be inclined to enjoy one of these with a mild after dinner cigar as well.

On to the holiday ales. Often a boozy, frequently spicy and alcoholic style that is, to me, the brewer's version of of "comfort food." Some have spices and some do not, some are rather heavy and others are more moderate in dimension. Colors range from caramel to pitch black. Some are so full flavored and spicy they can stand up to being warmed or mulled and others may make a suitable marinade for beef , venison or pork. Around the holidays this style proliferates. Being called interchangeably "holiday ale", "winter warmers", "Christmas Ale" or other "seasonally appropriate" appellations. Consider the humorously named "Bad Elf", "Seriously Bad Elf" and "Criminally Bad Elf" as typical - if extreme - examples.

Any purchase of these ales may warrant some advanced research or at least careful shopping. If the idea of a "spiced" ale does not appeal to you, read the label to be sure your purchase includes no spices. If you are looking for a "warmer" check the ABV often located on the six-pack carrier if not on the individual bottles.

On the spicy end of the spectrum Sam Adam's "Old Fezziwig" seems to have quite a following, I fall squarely in the non-spiced camp with Berkshire's "Cabin Fever" (6.3% ABV) my preferred tipple. Malty with a balanced, hoppy finish Cabin Fever rewards the contemplative imbiber with a rich palate of flavors.

The Pumpkin and Holiday Ales afford the beer drinker the opportunity to enjoy a seasonally inspired and robust warming beverage on these bitter cold Bay shore nights. As we count down to 2009 consider your drinking options carefully. Might I also suggest, if your New Years Eve plan's include a glass or two, you consider staying home and spending the money you will save on some truly outstanding and flavorful ales?

Happy New Years to all.

Ode to Haggis... Chieftan of Puddings

The Chieftan of Puddings himself...

Fair fa' your honest, sonsie face,Great chieftain o' the puddin'-race! Aboon them a' ye tak yer place,Painch, tripe, or thairm:Weel are ye wordy o' a graceAs lang's my airm.

The groaning trencher there ye fill,Your hurdies like a distant hill,Your pin wad help to mend a millIn time o need, While thro your pores the dews distil Like amber bead.

His knife see rustic Labour dicht,An cut you up wi ready slicht,Trenching your gushing entrails bricht,Like onie ditch;And then, Oh what a glorious sicht, Warm-reekin, rich!

Then, horn for horn, they stretch an strive: Deil tak the hindmaist, on they drive, Till a' their weel-swall'd kytes belyve Are bent like drums; Then auld Guidman, maist like to rive, 'Bethankit' hums.

Is there that ower his French ragout,Or olio that wad staw a sow, Or fricassee wad mak her spew. Wi perfect sconner, Looks down wi' sneering, scornfu viewOn sic a dinner?

Poor devil! see him ower his trash, As feckless as a wither'd rash, His spindle shank a guid whip-lash, His nieve a nit:Thro bloody flood or field to dash,Oh how unfit!

But mark the Rustic, haggis-fed,The trembling earth resounds his tread,Clap in his wallie nieve a blade, He'll make it whissle;An legs an arms, an heads will sned, Like taps o thrissle.

Ye Pow'rs, wha mak mankind your care,And dish them out their bill o fare,Auld Scotland wants nae skinking wareThat jaups in luggies:But, if ye wish her gratefu prayer,Gie her a Haggis!


For sure fairer words were never spoken and with this as inspiration no less?

Waiting for Robert Burns

As we approach the 25th of January Scots around the world turn to the works and wisdom of Robert Burns for inspiration. Alas, I remember him for his incomprehensible prose and his ode to Haggis (sheep offal, spices and oats stuffed into a sheep stomach steamed for hours or days). Not sure of the words anyore but it was some sort of litany of virtues about a glistening pile of steaming entrails and its inherent nobility. "Oh Haggis thy King of Puddings" is in there I think - no doubt a sharp lawyer for Anheuser Busch will be in touch with Burn's estate shortly, seeking among other things a "cease and desist order" from such confusing verse. "Your honour the public might confuse the "King of Puddings" moniker as an endorsement by our product, the "King of Beers!" Just imagine that pairing. I'll have the chilled Bud and the steaming Haggis - the pyloric valve if you have it?

This is real food. The sort of cookery one might expect from half-frozen men in kilts. Men with red noses and cheeks. Men who are feeling no pain after toasting every one from the King to the person that polished their Claymore. Manly toasts made with firey Scots Whisky not to mention downing a pint or two of "Wee heavy" (strong scots ale) . Men who are numb from being subjected to the equivalent of Now 27 played on bagpipes (an instrument with an air bladder also made from sheep entrails I might add).

While I too feel some knship to Burns, perhaps a more muted celebration will be in order - a dram of Balvenie on ferry home with the usual suspects perhaps? Memo to self- lay on some Scots ales for the weekend as well.