Thursday, May 19, 2005

The Ales of Spring

Spring is here and this beer drinker’s thoughts turn to Kölsch and Altbier…
In the world of beer, when one thinks of German brews the traditional Pale Lagers, Bocks and Weizenbier come to mind first. Kölsch and Altbier are often overlooked or well nigh forgotten. This is truly a loss as these delicate styles are both refreshing and tasty. Unlike most German brews which are lagers, Kölsch, a style associated with the city of Köln (Cologne) and Altbier (Düsseldorf) are ales.
True Kölsch is brewed within the city limits of Köln by one of fifteen or so designated breweries. You can usually find two of these beers Gaffel and Reissdorf locally. Both are tasty, well made and run about eight dollars a six, both are also available in a 22 ounce single bottle for about $2.50. But if you choose to try this style I encourage you to include in your exploration some American craft brews. Traditionally a spring seasonal offering, Kölsch style brews are hitting the shelves as I type. Consider picking up some Harpoon Summer Beer or Geary’s Summer Ale as a starting point. American Blonde Ale is a style that has a profile similar to Kölsch. Consider trying Hunterdon Brewing’s ( http://www.hunterdonbrewing.com//) Jersey Gold as an example of the Blonde Ale style.
I really enjoy sipping a glass of Kölsch on a warm spring evening from a delicate cylindrical glass (or “Stange”). The typical Kölsch pours into your glass a pale gold with a moderate sized white head. The aroma of this style is typically slightly fruity (malt and ale yeast) with some floral hop notes. The taste will be initially sweet/biscuit malt with some drying hops as the brew reaches the back of the tongue and the throat. But it will be overall a balanced brew. Kölsch has a palate that is softer, with more malt than hops, though not as malty as a Bock, nor quite as dry as a typical Pilsner.
Düsseldorf’s Altbier is another favorite style of mine. This is not a springtime beer but is light enough in body for year round enjoyment. There are not many imported Altbiers available locally. One that I consistently see is Uerige (http://www.uerige.de//). A touch pricey in its swing-top bottle ($3.50 for 11.2 ounces) Uerige is a rather spicy and dry example of the style. But despair not as new to the shelves in our area is Long Trail Brewing’s (http://longtrail.com//) Long Trail Ale and Double Bag Ale, both are excellent American recreations of this unique style of brew. A somewhat eclectic and potent local example is Heavyweight Brewing’s ( http://heavyweight-brewing.com//) Stickenjab Alt.
Altbier will typically pour out light brown to dark copper in color with a generous white head. It will generally feature a balance of fruity yeast, sweet/toasted malt and hops in the aroma with some biscuit notes in most. The taste will range from sweet caramel to mild biscuit/toasted malt with a dry finish. This dry finish is especially pronounced in the Uerige and Heavyweight brews.
Until next time, think global and drink local.

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