Lambic, Gueuze and Wit

These are three beer styles that are unique to Belgium. They share some common characteristics but are very different styles. I am typing this at my desk in New York City at 7:16 a.m. I will describe each style in some detail, this evening, after the kids are settled in their beds I will uncork and decant a Gueze and share the experience with you all.

Straight Lambic is a wheat beer that has been spontaneously fermented. While wheat beers are not that unusual, the wheat used for Lambic is unmalted. This requires that that the Wort be boiled for 4-6 hours to break down the sugars to a fermentable state. During the boil huge quantities of aged hops are added. The Hops are aged to reduce the aroma and bitterness imparted to the beer. The preservative qualities of the Hops survive the aging process however. The mash is now cooled and left to spontaneously ferment using the wild yeasts resident in the brewery, and thanks to the slatted roof and sides of the traditional buildings, the environs of Flanders where the style is brewed. This is an unpredictable process and the wild yeasts impart a sour fruitness that are the hallmarks of this style. The wild yeasts yield a rapid and vigorous primary fermentation lasting about 6 days, this is followed by a secondary fermentation over a period of several months. Both fermentations take place in wooden casks that were previously used for claret, port or sherry. The casks add another layer of complexity to the resultant brew. Young Lambic (referred to as "foxy" or "vos" in the local dialect)can be served at 3-6 months but true Lambic is cask matured for two years. The resultant Lambic is then distributed straight in cask or(less commonly) bottle. The Lambic will be virtually uncarbonated and quite tart.

Much Lambic is shipped to blenders who will create "Gueuze" from the blending of several Lambics. Unblended Lambic is a not that common in this country but you can usually locate a bottle of Lindemann's http://www.lindemans.be/ at the better beer stores such as Spirit's Unlimited in Red Bank or SuperSaver on Route 22 in Somerville. Expect to pay $4-5 for a 12 ounce bottle $8-9 for a 750 ml.

As mentioned above, most Lambic is blended to form another style of Beer called a Gueuze. The simplest blend is a mature and a new Lambic. The young Lambic, which contains some unfermented sugars, induces further fermentation and provides a subtle sweetness to offset the tartness of the mature Lambic. If the fermentation is in a bottle the Guezue will, unlike most Lambics be nicely carbonated, with a dryish yet fruity flavor.

Kriek is another blended Lambic where the additon of sour cherries induces a further fermentation. Kriek is an elegant beer. It is bottle conditioned and finished with a cork and cage. It pours a translucent pink with a pink tinged head. The taste is tart, sour cherry with some subtle malt notes. This beer is best enjoyed chilled from a stemmed champagne flute. Lambic can be blended with other fruit but Kriek (Cherries) and Framboise (Rasberries) are traditional. Lindeman's Kriek and Framboise can be readily found in most better stores. Expect to pay $4-5 for a 12 ounce bottle $7-9 for a 750 ml.

Wit or Belgian White beer is a style that was extinct until revivied by Pierre Celis in the early 1980's. That beer was called Hogaarden and is now readily available throught the local area. Mr. Celis went on to sell the brewery to a large conglomerate and opened a new brewery oustide of Austin, Texas. The eponomously named Celis Brewery produced some great beers until the brewery was sold to Miller Brewing who closed it down a few months after the sale. The Brand lives on with the name and recipe being owned by the Michigan Brewing Company. What of Mr. Celis? Why he is back in Belgium brewing new beers with a new start-up brewing operation. Expect great things from Pierre in the future.

But what exactly is Witbier or White Beer? Like Lambic, Wit uses Wheat that is un-malted (45%), there is also an additon of some Oats 5% also unmalted and the balance of the grain bill is malted Barley. During fermentation an ale yeast is used and some unusual ingredients are added to flavor the brew: Coriander and Curacao Orange peels; other spices such as cumin may be added depending on the brand. Prior to bottling, another yeast strain is added to bottle condition the beer, which is cellared for a few months prior to distribution. Brooklyn Brewery http://www.brooklynbrewery.com/ and Allagash Brewery http://www.allagash.com/ make two very respectable beers of this type. I have had the Brooklyn on tap and found it very refreshing and tasty. Expect to pay 7-8 dollars for a six pack of these brews. Hogaarden is in the same price range and very accessible for someone trying to expand their beer horizons.

Tonight as a treat I decided to crack open a bottle of Gueuze. The brand "Oud Beersel Oude Geuze Vielle" 16 ounce dark green bottle with a cork and cage closure.

The beer poured into the octagonal tumbler I chose, clear golden with a very slight amber hue. Abundant carbonation. The head was thick and creamy and persisted till the beer was finished and left thick brewers lace on the glass sides and bottom.

The aroma was fruity with sour apples, cherries and perhaps some ripe pineapple aroma. The aroma became acidic and sour with distinct earthiness and some wet oak.

The flavor was light with sour acidity leading followed by a light and persistent tart sourness. The flavor was also fruity, with no particular fruit distinguishable. The sourness was interesting and complex but not overdone.

The finish was dry with lasting fruitiness The body was medium. I expected a bit more aroma and flavor and certainly more sourness, but this is a drinkable and refreshing beer.

Best before date was June of 2026... no kidding. This is a beer you can cellar for a while.