Tuesday, May 24, 2005

Lambic, Gueuze and Wit

These are three beer styles that are unique to Belgium. They share some common characteristics but are very different styles. I am typing this at my desk in New York City at 7:16 a.m. I will describe each style in some detail, this evening, after the kids are settled in their beds I will uncork and decant a Gueze and share the experience with you all.

Straight Lambic is a wheat beer that has been spontaneously fermented. While wheat beers are not that unusual, the wheat used for Lambic is unmalted. This requires that that the Wort be boiled for 4-6 hours to break down the sugars to a fermentable state. During the boil huge quantities of aged hops are added. The Hops are aged to reduce the aroma and bitterness imparted to the beer. The preservative qualities of the Hops survive the aging process however. The mash is now cooled and left to spontaneously ferment using the wild yeasts resident in the brewery, and thanks to the slatted roof and sides of the traditional buildings, the environs of Flanders where the style is brewed. This is an unpredictable process and the wild yeasts impart a sour fruitness that are the hallmarks of this style. The wild yeasts yield a rapid and vigorous primary fermentation lasting about 6 days, this is followed by a secondary fermentation over a period of several months. Both fermentations take place in wooden casks that were previously used for claret, port or sherry. The casks add another layer of complexity to the resultant brew. Young Lambic (referred to as "foxy" or "vos" in the local dialect)can be served at 3-6 months but true Lambic is cask matured for two years. The resultant Lambic is then distributed straight in cask or(less commonly) bottle. The Lambic will be virtually uncarbonated and quite tart.

Much Lambic is shipped to blenders who will create "Gueuze" from the blending of several Lambics. Unblended Lambic is a not that common in this country but you can usually locate a bottle of Lindemann's http://www.lindemans.be/ at the better beer stores such as Spirit's Unlimited in Red Bank or SuperSaver on Route 22 in Somerville. Expect to pay $4-5 for a 12 ounce bottle $8-9 for a 750 ml.

As mentioned above, most Lambic is blended to form another style of Beer called a Gueuze. The simplest blend is a mature and a new Lambic. The young Lambic, which contains some unfermented sugars, induces further fermentation and provides a subtle sweetness to offset the tartness of the mature Lambic. If the fermentation is in a bottle the Guezue will, unlike most Lambics be nicely carbonated, with a dryish yet fruity flavor.

Kriek is another blended Lambic where the additon of sour cherries induces a further fermentation. Kriek is an elegant beer. It is bottle conditioned and finished with a cork and cage. It pours a translucent pink with a pink tinged head. The taste is tart, sour cherry with some subtle malt notes. This beer is best enjoyed chilled from a stemmed champagne flute. Lambic can be blended with other fruit but Kriek (Cherries) and Framboise (Rasberries) are traditional. Lindeman's Kriek and Framboise can be readily found in most better stores. Expect to pay $4-5 for a 12 ounce bottle $7-9 for a 750 ml.

Wit or Belgian White beer is a style that was extinct until revivied by Pierre Celis in the early 1980's. That beer was called Hogaarden and is now readily available throught the local area. Mr. Celis went on to sell the brewery to a large conglomerate and opened a new brewery oustide of Austin, Texas. The eponomously named Celis Brewery produced some great beers until the brewery was sold to Miller Brewing who closed it down a few months after the sale. The Brand lives on with the name and recipe being owned by the Michigan Brewing Company. What of Mr. Celis? Why he is back in Belgium brewing new beers with a new start-up brewing operation. Expect great things from Pierre in the future.

But what exactly is Witbier or White Beer? Like Lambic, Wit uses Wheat that is un-malted (45%), there is also an additon of some Oats 5% also unmalted and the balance of the grain bill is malted Barley. During fermentation an ale yeast is used and some unusual ingredients are added to flavor the brew: Coriander and Curacao Orange peels; other spices such as cumin may be added depending on the brand. Prior to bottling, another yeast strain is added to bottle condition the beer, which is cellared for a few months prior to distribution. Brooklyn Brewery http://www.brooklynbrewery.com/ and Allagash Brewery http://www.allagash.com/ make two very respectable beers of this type. I have had the Brooklyn on tap and found it very refreshing and tasty. Expect to pay 7-8 dollars for a six pack of these brews. Hogaarden is in the same price range and very accessible for someone trying to expand their beer horizons.

Tonight as a treat I decided to crack open a bottle of Gueuze. The brand "Oud Beersel Oude Geuze Vielle" 16 ounce dark green bottle with a cork and cage closure.

The beer poured into the octagonal tumbler I chose, clear golden with a very slight amber hue. Abundant carbonation. The head was thick and creamy and persisted till the beer was finished and left thick brewers lace on the glass sides and bottom.

The aroma was fruity with sour apples, cherries and perhaps some ripe pineapple aroma. The aroma became acidic and sour with distinct earthiness and some wet oak.

The flavor was light with sour acidity leading followed by a light and persistent tart sourness. The flavor was also fruity, with no particular fruit distinguishable. The sourness was interesting and complex but not overdone.

The finish was dry with lasting fruitiness The body was medium. I expected a bit more aroma and flavor and certainly more sourness, but this is a drinkable and refreshing beer.

Best before date was June of 2026... no kidding. This is a beer you can cellar for a while.

Thursday, May 19, 2005

AHHH! Bock

Anyone that watched M.A.S.H. with any consistency will remember the episode where Radar was trying to act sophisticated to win the favors of a lady. To this end he affected a love of all things sophisticated, such as classical music. He practiced the utterance “Ahhh Bach” to show his love of the grand masters music. But I digress; this is about the beer and not music or television. Like the music of Bach, bock beer is deep, rich, sophisticated and has many variations on the same theme.

What exactly is a Bock Beer? Well let me tell you what it is not. It is not a beer that is brewed using the results of the “annual clearing” of the breweries pipes, tanks or the use of last seasons leftover grain. This urban legend still persists and is patently false. Breweries are scrupulously clean operations and are constantly being cleaned as anything less than absolute cleanliness risks spoiling the beer.

Bock beer (Bockbier) is a particular style of beer that originated in the town of Einbeck in Germany. It is a “lager” styled beer that is fermented at cooler temperatures over a long period of time. For many beer lovers, "bockbier" is the highlight of the Lenten fasting period that precedes Easter. Consequently, it is during this period that many breweries produce their strong, maltier bock beers. This nourishing specialty enjoys a long tradition: Centuries ago it was drunk by the Bavarian monks to help them survive the long Lent fasting season. After all, they reasoned: "liquid nourishment doesn't break our fasting oath".

For many breweries, bock beer is seen as the very pinnacle of the brewer's art. Almost every German brewery worthy of its name therefore includes a bock in its product range. Despite regional variations - slightly lighter in color in northern Germany and darker in the south - all bock beers have at least two things in common, higher alcohol content (around 5-7%) and a malty aroma. For those looking for something a little stronger, there's also a style called "Doppelbock" 7-9% alcohol and for the truly adventurous there is the legendary “Eisbock” with upwards of ten percent alcohol content. There are also Weizenbocks that have a significant amount of wheat added to an otherwise all malt brew. Roggenbocks, add Rye and there are versions that use smoked malt as well.

There are numerous legends surrounding the history of bock beer. Many people often wonder why monks - of all people - were allowed to drink such strong beer during their fasts. (Do you think it had something to do with being cloistered in an unheated, stone abbey with little to do besides create illuminated manuscripts? Add to this the fact that there were no women around to tell them to “put their clothes in the hamper and put the seat down?” Perhaps there may be some truth to this. Another popular tale explains how the monks arranged for Papal approval of this indulgence. Apparently the monks transported a barrel of the beer over the Alps to distant Rome in order to convince the "Holy Father" of its suitability for fasting. When the beer eventually reached the Pope, however, it had turned sour and was undrinkable. The Pope tasted the foul brew and had no qualms about permitting the monks to use the beer as liquid penance/sustenance during Lent. (Okay let’s agree to give this one a three on the 1 to 10 scale of truth or fiction. But it makes for a nice tale, and as these things go may contain a “grain” of truth…no pun intended.

Other sources claim that the beer has nothing to do with fasting. On the contrary, the Paulaner monks brewed it to celebrate the name day of their order's founder, Saint Francis of Paula (the Second day of April). The fact is that in 1751 the Paulaner monks received permission to produce and market a maltier beer called "St. Vaterbier", which was gradually changed to "Salvatorbier". After many other breweries had followed suit and called their own strong ales "Salvator", the monks succeeded in patenting the name in 1894. This led to a veritable boom in beers ending in "-ator" - even today, there are said to be over 200 Bavarian strong ales with the "-ator" suffix, including Maximator, Celebrator http://www.ayinger-bier.de , and Optimator today. Today you can buy these as well as Paulaner Salvator year round, though most aficionados agree that it is a Doppelbock not a straight bock beer.

But what about Einbeck? You know the place where the style originated? They still make bock beer there too. And it is the beer of Einbeck that sustained Martin Luther during his stay there. The bocks of Einbeck bear the appellation “Ur” for “original” and should be tried. Einbecker www.einbecker-brauhaus.de makes some fine examples of the style.

Here are some picks for you to start your exploration of this style with:

Bock Einbecker Ur-Bock Dunkel (dark) or Hell (light)

Doppelbock Samuel Adam’s Double Bock http://www.samadams.com , Paulaner Salvator http://www.paulaner.de/

Eisbock EKU 28 Kulminator http://www.kulmbacher.de/

Weizen-bock Aventinus* www.schneider-weisse.de/

Weizen Eisbock Aventinus Weizen-Eisbock*

All of these brews are available locally. Consider Spirits Unlimited on Newman Springs Road in Red bank as a one-stop place to get all of them. Other local venues may have one or more of them as well. Buy-Rite in Atlantic Highlands has the Sam Adam’s Double Bock for sure.

Next time we will talk about glassware for beer, cleaning a beer glass and the proper pour.

Four Simple Ingredients

If your still awake by the time you get to this part of the Herald I am humbled by your fortitude and honored by your perseverance. I am sipping at a goblet of Weyerbacher, Heresy, this is a oak barrel aged Imperial Stout brewed by the Weyerbacher Brewery in Easton Pennsylvania. This is a

powerful brew full of complex flavors and the product of a painstaking process that involves hours of mashing, weeks of fermentation and months of aging, the culmination is a brew of heroic proportions that one can savor over the course of an hour or two. This is not your typical lawnmower beer; this is a beer for Tolstoy.

We have talked about the history and the ingredients; let’s tackle the general brewing process before we get involved in the individual styles. From time to time I may blurt out comments on the Weyerbacher so be warned. If you are under 21 skip ahead to the next paragraph.

Oddly enough we start by boiling some water (for some reason called liquor by the brewers) in a big pot called a “mash tun” into this water we add malted barley that has been ground and sieved into “grist.” The grist is added into the liquor and the resultant porridge like mess is called the “mash” This mash is boiled for some time. The duration of the boil will vary depending on the style of beer and the grains used. This could be several hours. The object being to break down and dissolve the fermentable materials (sugars) in the grist so that when the mash is decocted or strained as much of the sugar as possible will be dissolved into the liquor. The mash is drawn off the grist and the resultant clarified liquid is now called the “wort.” At this point the boiling wort is transferred to a second vessel called the “brew kettle” and is ready for hopping.

The Weyerbacher poured an elegant dark mahogany with a two finger deep chestnut head that was tightly beaded and rapidly faded to a slender ring at the edges of the goblet. The color is opaque when held up to the light, though soft highlights are evident near the very edges. This is a dark and foreboding brew, its inky darkness beckons the curious to take a long pull and savor…

The wort is re-heated in the brew kettle and hops are added at various times during this boil. If they are added early in the boil they tend to make the beer more bitter or dryer, if added later in the boil the major effect is aromatic. Sometimes they are added at separate times so that both effects are obtained. At the conclusion of this boil the hops are strained from the wort. This is the conclusion of the “brewing” part of the process.

The aroma of the Weyerbacher is vinous: ripe fruit, alcohol, almost burgundy like. Some earth and some oak notes… I am struck by the similarity between this brew and a burgundy or cabernet…

The wort is passed through a chiller to bring it to a temperature appropriate for the style; 60 –70 Fahrenheit for ales, cooler temps for lagers. The wort is moved to a large tank called a “primary fermenter” and then the yeast is pitched into the cooled wort and the primary fermentation process commences. Primary fermentation will proceed for a week or more for ales and three to five weeks (or longer) for some lagers. During this time the yeast breaks down most of the sugars converting it to CO2 and ethyl alcohol. When the primary fermentation is complete the beer is filtered (or not) and ultimately transferred to bottles or casks. Some beers may have a small amount of malt or sugar added to allow it to undergo a secondary fermentation in the bottle, such beers are said to be “bottle conditioned.”

The Weyerbacher’s taste mirrors the aroma, earth, oak, wine like grapes, strong alcohol, and some bitter hop notes…This beer style, the “Imperial Stout” has a rich and storied past. It is said that Peter the Great, Tsar or Russia fell in love with the British bitter and dark beers during his visits to the British Isles. He insisted on having this beer brought to the Imperial Court.” The aptly named A. Le. Coq (a Belgian) was appointed purveyor to the Tsars and this Stout was brewed with extra hops and a high alcohol content to enable it to survive the sea voyage from England across the North Sea, through the Baltic to St. Petersburg and the ensuing overland journey to Moscow. This interpretation by our friends in Easton, Pennsylvania may just be very much like the original. Down to the time spent on oak…today this style survives in the Baltic Porters of Carnegie (Sweden) and Synebrichoff (Finland) as well as or own local artisan brewer Heavyweight, in Ocean Township. For me, a student of history, Heavyweight’s Perkuno’s Hammer recalls the days of the Romanov dynasty … Elegant Waltzes… Hussar Pelisses swirl to the music of Tchaikovsky, Rimsky-Korsakov and Borodin, a delicately carved, Ancient, Volga Sturgeon cooked to perfection and mountains of Caspian Sea Caviar accompanied by frozen Vodka and the rich dark beer brought all the way from the “Thames Pool”… by a Belgian whose name began with three letters… A. Le.

Now as promised I have received some kind e-mail and some suggestions for recipes/food pairings and places to enjoy a good glass of beer, or just some beer nostalgia. Here are a few for you to enjoy. Thank you all and keep those e-mails coming.

Virginia wrote:

good show....have loved beer 4 many a year....must drink less ,but can still enjoy folklore, aroma, small sips, and fun just knowing....live out west lots of micro breweries.....will b good to see what east can offer...will visit as many as i can ....spent time in Keansburg at Old Heidelberg...like tap beer best....thanks 4 the column....

John wrote:

“started my working years as a chemist at P. Ballentine and Sons, Newark, NJ. I was fresh out of the Army in March of 1953. I spent 13 years there and your details on the brewing process brought back a great many memories. Along with the regular light beers, they also brewed India Pale Ale, which aged on a bed of hops for one year, and Burton Ale which was not sold, but given as Christmas gifts to friends of the owners, the Badenhausen family”.

Thank you for a great column every week in the Herald.

(John, you can still get Ballentine Pale Ale here in the Garden State. Will pick some up for review in a future column)

Patrick Wrote:

“Forget wine with cheese, drink beer. Here's a combo I just learned - Stilton cheese on a cracker, I chose a water cracker. Top it with this mix of dried fruit - cranberries (craisans), apricots, and mangoes chopped into tiny little bits. mix in a bowl with some chopped walnuts and then drizzle with honey. (I'm sure you could experiment with the fruit) The Stilton cheese is a very strong type of blue veined cheese; the sweetness in the above mix compliments it excellently.

Drink with a nice Weiss beer dressed with a slice of lemon, I drink Franziskaner.”

The Brewer's Art

The brewing process is deceptively simple and straight forward. Beer generally has four simple ingredients: Water, Cereal Grains, Yeast and Hops. Subtle differences in each ingredient, as well as the timing of the brewing process can result in wide variations in flavor.

Water is the easiest and least complex ingredient. Despite the claims of certain brewers it generally adds little to the beer. Whether it is the “Artesian” water used in Olympia Beer, or the Rocky Mountain Spring Water used in Coors. The simple fact is that most beers today use sterilized and filtered water. Certain styles of beer use mineral additives to soften the water and change the profile of the beer. The beers Burton on Trent are often noted for their soft-water tang. These are the exception and not the rule.

Cereal grains are the “guts” of the beer. Aside from being the source of the fermentable sugar the grains impart color, body, head retention and taste. The grain of choice is two-row barley but just about any grain imaginable can and is used, as are syrups and various sugars. Most craft brews use only barley. Most of the Major Brewers use some barley, but also corn, rice, and processed extracts and sugars. These non-barley grains and syrups are called “adjuncts”. To talk about each type of grain and what it contributes to a brew is however way too complicated for most people. I will give you a link at the end of the article where you explore each such ingredient in great detail. For the rest of the article we will talk exclusively about “All- Malt” brews.

What is all this talk about “Malts” and “Malted Barley?” Barley, while fermentable without malting is too starchy. You can brew with it but the resulting brew will taste “grainy” and will contain lots of un-fermentable starch. To convert the starch into something fermentable you need to malt it. The dried grain is steeped in water to induce germination and then kilned to convert the starches into sugars and other soluble substances. The majority of malt used in beer is kilned to a light color, and if used alone will result in a paler beer.

Now, a word or two about beers “color.” As mentioned above a beer gets its color from the malt. The “grain bill” or the amount and proportions of grain used in a beer is typically composed of a base of pale malted barley with other styles of malt added to give the beer a deeper color and impart some flavoring.. The amount of toasting the malted barley receives increases the darkness of the malt and consequently of the beer. Colors ranging from light amber, through chestnut brown to nearly black (think Guinness.) I am sure you have heard this old saw “Oh I don’t like dark beers they are too heavy.” People see dark; they assume “Heavy.” In fact the color and the “body” of a brew are not related. Guinness “Pub Draught” in the can or bottle is lighter in body (and carbohydrates) than most of the pale yellow, fizzy beers that the major brewers sell. A small portion of dark roasted malt gives Guinness (http://www.guinness.com ) its distinctive dark color, and imparts a roasted coffee taste as well. Interestingly the dark roasted malt is largely un-fermentable so it adds little beyond color and taste. The “heft” found in some beers come from the amount of grain used and not it’s color. In fact the darker the grain the less fermentable material it retains. As counterpoints consider Belgian Trippel Ales such as Duvel (http://www.duvel.be) which despite the pale color is a relatively hefty beer in terms of the amount grains used.

Hops? Specifically, Humulus Lupulus are the flowering cones of a perennial vine. Hops are a member of the hemp family and thus a cousin of the cannabis plant (sorry no THC in this stuff). Hops typically thrive in climates similar to the ones that grapes do. Hop plants are dioecious, meaning the males and females flower on separate plants -- and the female cones are used in the brewing process. Hops are a natural preservative and were first used to ward-off spoilage. They also impart a pleasant dryness or bitterness to beer to balance out the sweet malts. Ever so versatile they also lend a hand in head retention, help to clear the beer (acting as a natural filter) and add a pleasant aroma.

There are many varieties of hops, each with unique characteristics. Some are used for bittering and others for their aroma. The “Noble Hops” of which Jim Koch. brewer of Sam Adams ( http://www.samadams.com ), speaks are the hops originally used in German and Czech Beers. The Noble Hops include three main cultivars, the Saaz variety for bittering, the Tettang variety for aroma and the Hallertau variety for a little of both. In American craft brews Oregon and California grown hops play a major role. The Cascade variety imparts a herbal aroma and a citrus bitterness to beers and is a key ingredient in many West Coast Craft beers such as Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (http://www.sierra-nevada.com ).

The fourth ingredient in beer is the catalyst of the brewing process…(cue the grey haired monotone guy in a lab coat …) “Yeast. Yeast is a single-celled microorganisms that reproduces by budding. It is biologically classified as fungi and is responsible for converting fermentable sugars into alcohol and other byproducts. There are literally hundreds of varieties and strains of yeast. In the past, there were two types of beer yeast: ale yeast (the "top-fermenting" type, Saccharomyces cerevisiae) and lager yeast (the "bottom-fermenting" type, Saccharomyces uvarum, formerly known as Saccharomyces carlsbergensis). Today, as a result of recent reclassification of Saccharomyces species, both ale and lager yeast strains are considered to be members of S. cerevisiae. (Cue shaggy haired surfer) “Whoa too much information dude.”

For now just know this: The variety of yeast used effects the beers flavor greatly. If you care to experiment just compare a German unfiltered wheat beer, such as Weihenstephaner Hefeweisbeer where the yeast is among the predominant flavors to a filtered Wheat Beer such as WeihenstephanerKrystall. http://www.brauerei-weihenstephan.de. Gee, Beer Dude why did you just spend all that time writing about malted barley and wrap up your discussion with a wheat beer? Sit down, or I won’t give you any homework…and that means no beer for you.

All the beers mentioned in this article (along with at least 580 other varieties) are available at the Spirits Unlimited on Newman Springs Road in Red Bank My main sources for this Article were Michael Jackson’s The New World Guide to Beer (http://www.beerhunter.com/) and the Beer 101 Section of Beer Advocate.com (http://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/101/)

Beer Glasses

What is the best glass to drink beer from? There is no simple short answer. You want a glass that will present the beer at its best, showcase its appearance, concentrate it’s aromas and allow you to experience its flavors. Below I have provided images and descriptions of some of the many styles of glass that are available. I have also listed some of the advantages associated with each style of glass and provided some suggestions on what beers to fill them with. Special thanks for the format and the images should be directed to BeerAdvocate.com. The prose and the beer choices are however my own and I trust they will inspire you to broaden your beer horizons. Regardless of the type of beer, always drink a beer from a glass and not from a can or bottle. To fully enjoy the product as the brewer intended it you must see it and smell it. This applies to the cheapest Macro Brew and the priciest Trappist Ale.

Flute Glass


Certain types of beer, notably Fruit Lambics such as Lindeman’s Kriek and Lindeman’s Framboise are best showcased in a champagne type flute. Long and narrow glasses ensure that carbonation doesn't dissipate too quickly and showcase this styles lively carbonation and sparkling color (a bright pink in the case of the Kriek). An added benefit is that the shape induces a beer to give off its carbonation at a steady rate for a more intense aroma.

Goblet (or Chalice)


Many of the stronger Belgian and Trappist styles such as Chimay Grand Cru are best enjoyed from a Goblet or a heavy and thick walled Chalice. Some glasses of this style have an etched design at the bottom of the glass designed to maintain a beers head. The etching attracts CO2 and creates a steady stream of bubbles that thereby induces longer head retention. If left to its own devices for a time, the shape of the etching will be mirror imaged in the dense foam of the beers head. The Goblet and Chalice are both wide-mouthed permitting deep sips of the flavorful and aromatic brews within.



Mug (or Seidel, Stein)


Mugs are fun, easy to drink out of and often hold plenty of beer. Mugs are more about fun than elegance, though I have some Tiffany Mugs that are a bit of both. To me, the best mugs are clear glass and allow the drinker to visually enjoy the brew as well as go a long time between refills. Mugs favor so-called “session beers”. The beers of the times when you’re having more than just one … like that Oktoberfest Party.

Paulaner Oktober Fest is a great mug beer, as is Harpoon’s October Fest and the beers of Climaax Brewing in Roselle Park, New Jersey.

Pilsner Glass (or Pokal)


A tall, slender and tapered glass, typically very narrow at the base, sometimes having a shot stem. This type of glass showcases the active carbonation and pale malt colors of a Pilsner styled beer while the shape also works with the carbonation in maintaining the beers head. A Pokal is a European Pilsner styled glass with a stem. Both glass types, like the flute, enhance the prolonged release of the aroma within the beer enhancing the drinking experience, which in the case of a Pilsner can be very delicate. My Grandfathers favorite glasses were his Rheingold Pilsners. When it comes to Pilsners one of the best is out there is Victory Brewing’s Prima Pils.

Pint Glass (or Becker, Nonic, Tumbler)


Near cylindrical, with a slightly tapered base and a wide-mouth. When an Englishman goes out for a “jar or two with his mates” this is the preferred style. This is my facvorite glass for casual drinking. There are three basic types of pint glass: The heavy “Libby” pint glasses so common in brew pub bars today. Also known as a “Shaker Tumbler” or Mixing Glass to us old geezers. The traditional ”Nonic” British Pint (jar) that has a slight ridge towards the top (see image) this ridge acts as a grip of sorts. Lastly, the Becker (becher, or Willibecher) which is the German equivalent, tapering at the bottom and less so at the top, bowed out slightly in the middle. Pint glasses are easy to drink out of and generally more stable than the stemmed glassware styles. Pint Glasses are more elegant than a mug and in my mind more comfortable to hold over a long period of time. One possible downside is that the beer warms up faster as you have no handle to keep your hand insulated from the glass proper. This is easily remedied by drinking faster. As pints they are typically clear glass you can visually enjoy your beer. Most ales and lagers do well in a pint glass. I prefer the thinner glassed Nonic and Becher styles to the heavy Libby pints. Though I keep all three types on hand.

Snifter


Not just for Brandy, these wide-bowled short stemmed glasses with their tapered mouths are perfect for capturing the aromas of strong ales as they warm. Sizes vary, but they should provide enough room to swirl and agitate the brew and release the aroma. Try using a snifter with an Eisbock such as Aventinus or EKU 28, a Barley wine such as Heavyweight’s “Old Salty”, Brooklyn Brewing’ s “Monster” and Victory’s “Old Horizontal” or some of the stronger Belgian offerings such as Rochefort 10.



Stange (Slender Cylinder)


This style is a hard to come by traditional German glass. Stange translates in English as "stick" and these delicate, slender cylinders are used to serve more delicate beers. An acceptable substitute for a stange is a Tom Collins glass. This is the glass used for a “Alt” style ales such as or Uerirge Alt or Long Trail Ale (Long Trail Brewing, Vermont). This style glass also favors a Kolsch style summer beer such as Reissdorf or Gaffel. Most are rather small (.2 liter) and very thin walled. A cool glass of Kolsch on a hot evening in Atlantic Highlands is a sublime experience.

Tulip


A stemmed glass, the top of the glass pushes out a bit to form a lip in order to capture the head and the body is bulbous. Duvel’s signature glass is an oversized tulip. This style favors the more complex brews that have a complex bouquet but the flared top also supports a vigorous head which is not necessarily something you want in a brandy-style snifter. Some “Belgian” Scotch Ales are often served in a "thistle glass," which is a modified tulip glass that roughly resembles Scotland's national flower. Though in frugal Scotland itself such finery is rarely seen, the traditional Nonic pint is what is most often encountered there. Try Sam Adams Scotch Ale if you can find it from such a glass. The peat smoked malt makes for a delightful if someone different aroma.





Weizen Glass


On a sweltering day In Atlantic Highlands nothing beats a tall glass brimming with Weizenbier (wheat beer) or Weizenbock in an tall shapely Weizen Glass. These glasses, with their thin walls and softly curvaceous length, showcase the beer's hazy sunshine color and provides accommodation (temporarily)for a half liter of fragrant (banana and cloves), refreshing ale and also allows sufficient space to contain the dense, creamy head intrinsic to the lighter wheat beers. Most glasses are over 0.5L in size, with slight variations in shape. Oh and pass on the lemon garnish if offered, the oils in the lemon zest will kill the head. At home, be certain to rinse the glass with cool water right before you pour as this will keep the head manageable. My picks? Anything Ramstein (High Point Brewing, Butler NJ).




Where Do I get Glassware?

When it comes to Brewery Logo Glasses, I get mine online at the Global Beer Network and Johns Grocery in Iowa or locally at Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank or other local beer stores as part of Holiday Gift sets. Garage Sales also are a good source. Generic glasses are available at Crate and Barrel, Pier One Imports and Williams and Sonoma. And there is always e-bay…

How do I care for my cherished beer glasses?

Hand-wash all glasses in hot water. Do not put them in an automatic dishwasher as most dishwashers will leave a residue, which may affect the head retention as well as the flavor and aroma. Use a mild dishwashing soap, and if you are really anal retentive have a separate sponge for your glassware so there is not cross contamination from greasy food particles on a used sponge. Let them air dry, do not hand dry because the towel may leave dust particles which will affect the head retention. Caring for you glassware in this manner will also protect gold or silver- rimmed glasses and glasses with silk-screened brewery logos.

Cheers and happy hunting.

Think global and drink local. Next time we will discuss the proper pour and perhaps I may do a field trip or something.

The Perfect Pour

On Monday the Beer Man played Golf in upstate New York. It was a glorious day and all had a great time. No persons or animals were injured or maimed in the process. No cheap, yellow, watery beer was consumed within his field of vision. A glorious day indeed! The Golf occupied the better part of his day, but the true highlight was the Beer Man’s short visit to Half Time in Poughkeepsie, New York www.halftimebeverage.com .

For a beer aficionado Half Time is the closest that you will come to Beer Nirvana. They advertise having over 1000 different beers and they just might have that many, and then some. I had only about 30 minutes to browse and managed to score some great beers to try. I will share my finds with you in a future column, but suffice to say they represent an eclectic mix. I picked out styles ranging from German Altbier to Oak Aged California Imperial Pale Ale. At Half Time you are encouraged to break six-packs and mix and match. Beer Man did so gladly. So much quality beer choose from, so little time to make the choices (loud audible sigh).

As promised last week, let’s take a brief moment to talk about properly pouring a beer. We talked about Glassware in the last column. Assuming you have the appropriate glass at hand, make sure it is clean. (Hot water, clean sponge, dish soap, rinsed carefully then air dried and never chilled.) Why so clean? Hygiene considerations aside a dirty glass, containing traces of oils, dirt or residue from a previous beer, may inhibit head creation and destroy or alter the beer’s flavor. Why not chill the glass? In most cases beer is best cool, but not too cold. A chilled glass will inhibit your ability to taste the beer. Some beers require more or less chilling to properly express their charms. Do your homework, read the instructions on the brewers packaging or go to http://www.beeradvocate.com/ for serving suggestions including the type of glass that the beer requires.

To start the pour, hold your glass at a 45° angle.

Pour the beer, targeting the middle of the slope of the glass. If the head does not start to form on its own don't be afraid to add some air by increasing the distance between the bottle and the glass as you pour.

At the halfway point bring the glass vertical and continue to pour in the middle of the glass. This will induce the perfect foam head.

Having a head on a beer is an essential part of a proper pour. Head formation releases the beer’s aroma and adds to the visual presentation. Again you may also want to gradually add distance between the bottle and glass as you pour, to coax the beer into raising a good head. Experts agree that an ideal head should be an inch to an inch and a half (two fingers). Each beer is different so some experimentation is in order here.

Particular care must be exercised when pouring some bottle-conditioned beers. Such beers may have a considerable amount of yeast sediment in the bottle. With such brews you may wish to watch closely as you pour. Holding the bottle to the light as you pour is helpful. If you don't like yeast in your beer you can stop pouring when you see the sediment coming into the neck of the bottle. Now regarding the sediment in bottle-conditioned beers, first and foremost it is a good thing. In the case of some beers the yeast is an integral pert of the presentation. For example in the case of the Belgian White Beer or the German Hefe-Weizen the yeast flavor is part of the beers character and you actually may wish to interrupt your pour and swirl the last inch or so of the beer around the base of the bottle to loosen as much of the sediment as possible. This last yeasty solution is then poured into the glass. The beer will appear cloudy and have a rich fruity aroma.

After some experimentation you will know exactly what the inclusion of yeast does to alter the aroma, the clarity and the taste of each beer you like. You may decide you like certain beers better with or without yeast, regardless of style. Brewers yeast is also high in vitamin B-12 and many other nutrients.

Thank you all for your kind e-mails and suggestions. Should any reader have questions about this column or previous columns drop me a line.

Next time … A Beer Man road trip perhaps?

Until then think global and drink local.

The Ales of Spring

Spring is here and this beer drinker’s thoughts turn to Kölsch and Altbier…
In the world of beer, when one thinks of German brews the traditional Pale Lagers, Bocks and Weizenbier come to mind first. Kölsch and Altbier are often overlooked or well nigh forgotten. This is truly a loss as these delicate styles are both refreshing and tasty. Unlike most German brews which are lagers, Kölsch, a style associated with the city of Köln (Cologne) and Altbier (Düsseldorf) are ales.
True Kölsch is brewed within the city limits of Köln by one of fifteen or so designated breweries. You can usually find two of these beers Gaffel and Reissdorf locally. Both are tasty, well made and run about eight dollars a six, both are also available in a 22 ounce single bottle for about $2.50. But if you choose to try this style I encourage you to include in your exploration some American craft brews. Traditionally a spring seasonal offering, Kölsch style brews are hitting the shelves as I type. Consider picking up some Harpoon Summer Beer or Geary’s Summer Ale as a starting point. American Blonde Ale is a style that has a profile similar to Kölsch. Consider trying Hunterdon Brewing’s ( http://www.hunterdonbrewing.com//) Jersey Gold as an example of the Blonde Ale style.
I really enjoy sipping a glass of Kölsch on a warm spring evening from a delicate cylindrical glass (or “Stange”). The typical Kölsch pours into your glass a pale gold with a moderate sized white head. The aroma of this style is typically slightly fruity (malt and ale yeast) with some floral hop notes. The taste will be initially sweet/biscuit malt with some drying hops as the brew reaches the back of the tongue and the throat. But it will be overall a balanced brew. Kölsch has a palate that is softer, with more malt than hops, though not as malty as a Bock, nor quite as dry as a typical Pilsner.
Düsseldorf’s Altbier is another favorite style of mine. This is not a springtime beer but is light enough in body for year round enjoyment. There are not many imported Altbiers available locally. One that I consistently see is Uerige (http://www.uerige.de//). A touch pricey in its swing-top bottle ($3.50 for 11.2 ounces) Uerige is a rather spicy and dry example of the style. But despair not as new to the shelves in our area is Long Trail Brewing’s (http://longtrail.com//) Long Trail Ale and Double Bag Ale, both are excellent American recreations of this unique style of brew. A somewhat eclectic and potent local example is Heavyweight Brewing’s ( http://heavyweight-brewing.com//) Stickenjab Alt.
Altbier will typically pour out light brown to dark copper in color with a generous white head. It will generally feature a balance of fruity yeast, sweet/toasted malt and hops in the aroma with some biscuit notes in most. The taste will range from sweet caramel to mild biscuit/toasted malt with a dry finish. This dry finish is especially pronounced in the Uerige and Heavyweight brews.
Until next time, think global and drink local.

Trappist Ales

TRAPPIST BEERS
The BeerMan would like to dedicate this column to Father Bob, Pastor of Saint Agnes Roman Catholic Church here in Atlantic Highlands.
Firstly, what is a Trappist Beer? Trappist beer is brewed by Trappist monks, specifically members of the Cistercian Order. Trappist is also a licensed term, and currently only six breweries in the world may legally produce Trappist beers. All six of them are Belgian. To use the name and the "Authentic Trappist Product" logo, the rules of the International Trappist Association must be observed:
The product must be made within the walls of a Trappist Abbey. The product must be made by or under the supervision of the monastery community. The largest part of the profit must be spent on social work.
The six breweries that are allowed to call their beer "Trappist" are
Chimay Orval Rochefort Westmalle Westvleteren Achelse Kluis, St Benedictus
There is some discussion about “La Trappe /Koningshoeven” beer, brewed in The Netherlands by the Koningshoeven brewery in Tilburg. The beer is no longer brewed within the walls of an abbey, but is licensed to a large Dutch brewery (Bavaria). They call it Trappist beer, but it isn't in the true meaning of the word. Neither are beers like the Belgian 'Abbaye Leffe', which is licensed to Interbrew, one of the biggest breweries in the world. These beers don't carry the official authentic Trappist logo.
In addition to all the other good works that the Church of Rome performs it has played a pivotal role in the history of brewing in the Western Hemisphere. Let’s step back in time to when the Church was younger, when the Goths, Visigoths, and Vandals ran roughshod over the waning Roman Empire. It was during this time that many Monastic Orders had their start, including the Benedictines. When not saving the literary treasures of the Western World from the clutches of the Barbarian Hordes, the Benedictine Monks needed sustenance to fortify them for hours spent in prayer, and for this they looked to beer. Beer consumption, as it was a liquid, did not break the fasting required by Lenten vows. Monastery beers were therefore rich nourishing brews that required extraordinary amounts of malt in the making. In 1098 the Cistercian order was splintered off the Benedictine Order. While they left some of the “worldliness” of the Benedictines behind, they retained the tradition of brewing in their monasteries, and as noted above, still adhere to this tradition. For a more detailed history of the Cistercians open this link to the Catholic Encyclopedia and explore this rich and colorful site http://www.newadvent.org/cathen
The Trappist Ales are as rich in taste as they are in History. I am pleased to say that I have sampled many of these beers and found them, without exception, to be of superior quality and taste. As you explore the Trappist Ales you should be aware of some differences between them and the more common beer styles: They tend to have prices that one would expect to see in the wine aisles. They are all bottle conditioned and can be laid down and aged like wine. They are not necessarily what most would call “quenching” brews. Don’t come home from a day at the beach and crack open a Trappist to sooth your parched throat. These are the beers to savor with a book, some good company or that favorite Gregorian Chant CD.
Many Trappist Ales can be found in our local stores. I have listed below, grouped by Abbey, the beers that each Abbey brews along a brief description (style, alcohol by volume and a rough estimate of the price).
Chimay http://www.chimay.be/ The Abbey at Scourmont brews four beers only three of which are available in the US. They are easily differentiated by the color of the cap on the bottle. The strongest brew is the Grand Reserve’ (Blue Cap), weighing in at 9% alcohol, is a Belgian Strong Ale. They also brew a Dubbel (Red Cap) and a Trippel (White Cap) at 7% and 8% respectively. You can find all three in 11.2 ounce bottles for 2 to 3 dollars each bottle or in Cork and Caged 750 ml. bottles for 7 to 10 dollars each. These are heavily sedimented beers that need to be poured with care to avoid disturbing the sediment. See my earlier article on the “Perfect Pour’ for more details. All Trappist beers are best enjoyed from a Chalice or Goblet style glass.
Orval http://www.orval.be/ This Abbey brewery operates on the philosophy of: do one thing, and do it well. They brew one beer, a Belgian Pale Ale, and bottle it in a Skittle Pin shaped bottle. Drunk from a chalice this hazy orange brew is elegant and tasty. The recipe is consistent with Abbey records dating back to the 1100’s. Expect to pay 3-4 dollars for an 11.2 ounce bottle.
Rochefort http://users.pandora.be/gerritvdb/rochefort/English/RochefortIndex.htm the monks at the Abbey de Notre Dame de Saint Remy brew three beers: Two Strong Dark Ales and a Quadrupel. They are numbered 6, 8 and 10 for ease of identification. The Number equates to Degrees Plato (specific gravity) higher gravity generally equates to stronger ale. Price wise expect to pay in the 4-6 dollar range for a bottle; the “10” will be a little pricier than the others.
Westmalle http://www.trappistwestmalle.be/ Two beers come from the Monks at Westmalle: a Dubbel, dark brown label, 7% and a Trippel, tan label 9.5%. Expect to pay in the 4 dollar range for a 11.2 ounce bottle. They also brew a Pale Ale but it does not reach these shores with any frequency.
Westvleteren http://www.sintsixtus.be/ The rarest of the abbey beers. The monks at Saint Sixtus do not actively pursue the distribution of their beer around the world. Somehow it gets here, a fortunate few, those willing to plunk down 6-12 dollars for a small bottle, can enjoy one of these tasty and nourishing beers. The styles this Abbey brew include two Belgian Pale Ales distinguished by their red and green caps with about 6% alcohol by volume, a Belgian Dubbel, blue cap with the number “8” on it (8% alcohol) and a Quadrupel, yellow cap with the number 12 on it, (10.2% alcohol)l. For many aficionados “Westy 12” is the Holy Grail of beers.
Achelse Kluis, St Benedictus http://www.achelsekluis.myweb.nl/ I have not seen this Abbey’s beer locally but there are three different products available in the US: a Dubbel, a Trippel and a Strong Dark Ale. They have alcohol levels of 8% to 9.5% depending on the style. I have never seen or tried this brand so If you see it locally let me know.
What should I do with the sediment in when pouring my Trappist beer? There is no right answer in my opinion. I suggest you consider the following approach. Pour the beer carefully so as to retain the sediment in the bottle with a small portion of the beer. Taste the beer without the sediment. When you have consumed about half of the brew, add the rest of the beer and the sediment to the glass. This way you can compare the taste with and without. Enjoy!
In my next column will answer a few readers’ questions, and will discuss the Gueze, Lambic and Wit beers of Belgium’s secular brewers.
Until next time, think global and drink local.