A Myth Confirmed – Ballantine Burton Ale
One of the many great things about my gig as the “Atlantic Highlands Beer Man” is the feedback that my column often generates. Some is amusing, some is encouraging and some is downright fascinating. This past weekend’s experience clearly falls in the latter category and that is why I have chosen to share it with you.
Some weeks ago I received an e-mail from a reader who was previously employed by the Ballantine Brewery in Newark, New Jersey. He offered to mail me a label that he had saved for over forty years from a bottle of Ballantine Burton Ale. I emailed him back with my contact info and waited. This past Saturday morning I received a telephone call, it seems the Gentleman (who has asked to remain anonymous) informed me that he actually lives on the next block and would like to drop by with the label. I said “sure I’ll see you in a few minutes”. My guest arrived bearing the label, some typed background information on the Burton Ale and some memorabilia from his days as an employee at the Newark Brewery. We chatted for quite some time about beer and brewing and were it not for a planned get-together with some of my high school pals (Wayne Hills 1978) we would likely have chatted for hours.
By way of background, the Ballantine Brewery, was originally built in 1840, and was a Newark landmark. By 1950 the brand was the third most popular brand in the nation and the only Ale brewer in the top 10. Only Schlitz and Budweiser were bigger. Ballantine Ale was also the official beer of the New York Yankees. Yankee home runs were referred to as Ballantine Blasts by the announcers. Alas, consolidation in the industry and competition took their toll and by 1960 the brand had dropped to number 6 in the nation. To keep up changes were made to the recipe and the brewery was modernized and expanded but the brewer continued to lose money. In 1965 the Badenhausen Family sold the brewery to a group of investors that had no prior brewing experience. In three short years, despite looting the pension fund, the investors were forced to sell the brand and its distribution network to Falstaff. Shortly thereafter Ballantine brewing filed for bankruptcy and disappeared. Over the intervening years the brand has changed hands many times and is now being brewed by Pabst brewing. It is here where I leave-off and the story of Ballantine Burton ale Begins:
“I was a quality control laboratory employee at the Peter Ballantine Brewery from 1953 to
1966. The brewery closed, I believe in the fall of 1970. Some of this information is
anecdotal. The Burton ale was a long time product and by the time I started my
employment all kinds of legends about it and it’s origins at Ballantine had developed.
Anecdote: Burton Ale was brewed to be used for what was called, “Stock Ale”. In the taverns before Repeal there was on the bar a small barrel (about a gallon) with a spigot. It contained heavy, flat, ale that could be added, for a small fee of course, to a glass of draught beer as a flavor enhancer. For this purpose the master brewer from the Burton on Trent brewery in the, UK was brought to Newark to brew up he ale according to the English formula and brew house conditions. The market for Stock Ale did not materialize and the ale was put up in small storage or aging tanks in the brewery.
Fact: Not being a sales product it became a specialty ale that was bottled once per year in the late fall for distribution as a Christmas present to people f note. The ale was bottled with a special Yule label, packed in a specially lithographed case and distributed to the lucky ones on the list,
The bottling of the ale was a very carefully controlled operation. Samples would be taken from the aging tanks and evaluated. Sometimes all the ale for the run would come from one tank or several tanks would be blended together to obtain the proper flavor and mouth feel for this product. The tanks holding the ale were sealed by locking the zwickles (sampling faucet). Each tank had its own lock on both middle and bottom zwickels and the hose valve connection on the very bottom had a special screw cap which was also locked. A set of keys for the tanks was kept in the laboratory and the brewery supervisor’s office. When the ale was bottled there were supervisory personnel at any point where product might be “lost.” The same held true for the bottles and all the production was strictly accounted for and kept under lock an key in security areas before shipping. A few cases were also locked away for reference t the next years run.
The storage tanks were laboratory tested every 6 months for lactic acid and gravity. At Ballantine the gravity was measured by degrees Balling using hydrometers. The test determined if a secondary fermentation was occurring in the tank, a sure sign of wild yeast doing its dirty work. The lactic acid test was to see if bacteria were infecting the tank and they would produce lactic acid as a by-product. The brew master and technical director would also evaluate each tank for appearance, flavor and aroma.
It can now be told that when the brewers would set up a holiday buffet out in the brewery the price of admission for their laboratory friends was very often a quart sample jar of Burton Ale “zwickled’ from one of the tanks.
When the brewery went out of business, I have it on good authority that the Burton Ale on hand was inventoried by BATF for tax purposes and the bottom valves opened to run the contents to the sewer.
A sad end to a unique product…”
There is always some debate as to whether a brew tastes like it used to. Not being much of a drinker at the age of 5 (when the Badenhausen’s sold the brand) I have no recollection of the “Old Ballantine” but I still enjoy a “New Ballantine” every so often. My experience this past weekend has inspired me to pick up a six pack of Ballantine and add in a shot or two of some well aged “Stock Ale:” It should be interesting to taste what I may have missed by not being on the Badenhausen’s “A list” back in 1963.
Thursday, June 08, 2006
Losing your way in Atlantic Highlands
It is a rainy day here in the Atlantic Highlands. Getting out of bed was a chore. The steady drumbeat of rain on the roof made the decision to go for a walk/run a less than thrilling prospect. Un-daunted I laced up the running shoes, pulled on my ugly, old Government Issue, Gore-Tex Parka and off I went. The air was heavy and wet, the birds were silent and the gloomy gray skies made it difficult to work up anything resembling a vigorous pace. Up Grand and Up East Washington I went. As my mood began to lift I said to myself “Today, I am going to do something different.” The sign for Lenape Woods beckoned and the chance for a bit of trail running seemed to be a good prospect, so into the woods I went. I had some fun though it was not what I had planned. Sure, I got the chance to explore the woods on a rainy day and scramble down a few trails, but somehow I lost my way and ended up bushwhacking into the parking lot of the Thousand Oaks complex. From there it was but a short jog out onto Route 36 and back down Lake to Sears Landing and East Washington and thence Home. I got in my workout, “explored” the east side of town and made it home with enough time to enjoy a hot shower and a walk through town. The work on the pavers in front of city hall is progressing nicely, several commercial buildings are getting facelifts and with the new ice cream parlor our little downtown is looking better all the time.
Speaking of cold and damp highlands in general makes me think of Scotch Ale. What is in a name? Political-correctness aside, the Scots have always been the butt of jokes about being miserly and penurious. For example “It is said that all Scots have a sense of humor - because it is a free gift!” When it comes to Scotch Ales, however, nothing could be further from the truth. A Scotch Ale is typically a rich and generously complex brew that can lift the gloom of a damp rainy evening and satisfy the yearning for a malty tipple that is not so alcoholic that a second glass on a week-day is ill advised. Scottish ales come in different varieties; light, heavy and export. Before England and Scotland went to the New Pence (decimal based currency) these ales were categorized by the tax levy based on the beers original gravity: 60 shilling (light) 70 shilling (heavy) and 80 Shilling to 120 Shilling (export) There were versions of 120 Shilling or more that were often called a “Wee Heavy”.
Scottish Ales traditionally go through a longer boil in the kettle resulting in a varied degree of caramelization. This also results in a deep copper to brown color and a higher level of un-fermentable sugars. The Scotch Ale will have a rich mouth feel as well as a malty flavor and aroma (chocolate, toffee, molasses and some malted milk-like flavors). Hopping levels are generally low, though some light floral or herbal notes are generally present but the caramelized malts are the backbone. Peaty/Smoky characteristics are also common especially in the heavier versions where some peat smoked malt may be used to offset some of the sweeter malt notes.
Scotch Ales are not that hard to find locally. Some examples of this style that are usually available in our area include: St. Andrew’s Ale (4.60% A.B.V. - light) Belhaven Scottish Ale (5.2% A.B.V. - heavy) McEwan’s Scotch Ale( 8.0% A.B.V. - export), Skullsplitter (8.5% A.B.V. – “Wee Heavy”) and Old Chub Scottish Style Ale (8.0% A.B.V. -“Wee Heavy”). Sam Adam’s has a respectable “Scotch Ale” that has some nice peaty notes but it is only available seasonally as part of a sampler twelve pack. Long Trail “Hibernator” is a lighter Scotch Style Ale that is tasty and a nice introduction to the style. If you are really lucky you can latch on to a six pack of Three Floyd’s “Robert the Bruce.” I have seen this at Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank on and off over the last year or so.
As Voltaire said: “We look to Scotland for all our ideas of civilization.” On a rainy day at the Bay Shore there is little more civilized than reading Robert Burns aloud, sipping a strong malty brew and finding, thus again, one’s way in the world.
Speaking of cold and damp highlands in general makes me think of Scotch Ale. What is in a name? Political-correctness aside, the Scots have always been the butt of jokes about being miserly and penurious. For example “It is said that all Scots have a sense of humor - because it is a free gift!” When it comes to Scotch Ales, however, nothing could be further from the truth. A Scotch Ale is typically a rich and generously complex brew that can lift the gloom of a damp rainy evening and satisfy the yearning for a malty tipple that is not so alcoholic that a second glass on a week-day is ill advised. Scottish ales come in different varieties; light, heavy and export. Before England and Scotland went to the New Pence (decimal based currency) these ales were categorized by the tax levy based on the beers original gravity: 60 shilling (light) 70 shilling (heavy) and 80 Shilling to 120 Shilling (export) There were versions of 120 Shilling or more that were often called a “Wee Heavy”.
Scottish Ales traditionally go through a longer boil in the kettle resulting in a varied degree of caramelization. This also results in a deep copper to brown color and a higher level of un-fermentable sugars. The Scotch Ale will have a rich mouth feel as well as a malty flavor and aroma (chocolate, toffee, molasses and some malted milk-like flavors). Hopping levels are generally low, though some light floral or herbal notes are generally present but the caramelized malts are the backbone. Peaty/Smoky characteristics are also common especially in the heavier versions where some peat smoked malt may be used to offset some of the sweeter malt notes.
Scotch Ales are not that hard to find locally. Some examples of this style that are usually available in our area include: St. Andrew’s Ale (4.60% A.B.V. - light) Belhaven Scottish Ale (5.2% A.B.V. - heavy) McEwan’s Scotch Ale( 8.0% A.B.V. - export), Skullsplitter (8.5% A.B.V. – “Wee Heavy”) and Old Chub Scottish Style Ale (8.0% A.B.V. -“Wee Heavy”). Sam Adam’s has a respectable “Scotch Ale” that has some nice peaty notes but it is only available seasonally as part of a sampler twelve pack. Long Trail “Hibernator” is a lighter Scotch Style Ale that is tasty and a nice introduction to the style. If you are really lucky you can latch on to a six pack of Three Floyd’s “Robert the Bruce.” I have seen this at Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank on and off over the last year or so.
As Voltaire said: “We look to Scotland for all our ideas of civilization.” On a rainy day at the Bay Shore there is little more civilized than reading Robert Burns aloud, sipping a strong malty brew and finding, thus again, one’s way in the world.
Wednesday, May 31, 2006
A change of pace...
This morning I did something different. I got up at my usual hour, but instead of suiting up and heading to work I put on some shorts and took a nice stroll up the Mount, down to the Harbor and then back up First Ave. The air was heavy; a thick fog had descended on the Bay. The tympanic sounds of song birds were supported by the deep Bass tone of the ferry’s fog horn. A nice change of pace … memo to self- do this more often…
Also a nice change of a pace, the Hefeweizen is a hazy unfiltered brew that is made with a healthy dose of un-malted wheat and special strains of top-fermenting yeast. As a summer quencher it is a refreshing treat! This weekend I made it a point to chill and enjoy three different “hefe’s.” The first hefe I sampled was Franziskaner from Spaten-Franziskaner- Brau, Munich, Germany. This brew is very much a mainstream beer. It pours a hazy, bright yellow with a generous, tightly-knit head. The much anticipated aromas of fruit and spice are somewhat muted but are definitely there - predominately ripe bananas and earthy cloves as well as a pleasant yeast aroma. The taste is slightly tart with the some bread notes and a floral hop bite. In a word – refreshing. This brew is commonplace in our area. It is available on tap at Briody’s in Rumson and available in bottles in better local stores.
More difficult to find and in my opinion worth seeking out is Julius Echter Hefeweizen from Wurzbuger Hofbrau. This is a more complex and strongly flavored brew. The aroma is richly fruity, the palate is sharp and slightly tart and the appearance is a darker yellow by comparison with the Franzikaner.
Brewed closer to home, Vermont based Magic Hat’s Circus Boy is a very accessible American interpretation of the style. It is available in six-packs and as part of their “Joe’s Garage Sampler.”
Some notes on serving Hefe’s: In general this beer style has a tendency to generate an overabundant head. This can be tamed by rinsing your glass with cold water just prior to pouring and by carefully pouring it down the side until a small amount (about two inches) remains in the bottle. At this point stop pouring and swirl the bottle a few times to dislodge the yeasty sediment and then pour the remainder of the beer into your glass. Be sure to use a tall wide-mouthed glass if you can locate one. This will best showcase this great style’s exotic aroma and sunny appearance. Many places insist on serving a lemon wedge with a hefe. I recommend you pass on this, but the curious can ask their server for the lemon on the side and try it both ways.
Welcome to summer!
Also a nice change of a pace, the Hefeweizen is a hazy unfiltered brew that is made with a healthy dose of un-malted wheat and special strains of top-fermenting yeast. As a summer quencher it is a refreshing treat! This weekend I made it a point to chill and enjoy three different “hefe’s.” The first hefe I sampled was Franziskaner from Spaten-Franziskaner- Brau, Munich, Germany. This brew is very much a mainstream beer. It pours a hazy, bright yellow with a generous, tightly-knit head. The much anticipated aromas of fruit and spice are somewhat muted but are definitely there - predominately ripe bananas and earthy cloves as well as a pleasant yeast aroma. The taste is slightly tart with the some bread notes and a floral hop bite. In a word – refreshing. This brew is commonplace in our area. It is available on tap at Briody’s in Rumson and available in bottles in better local stores.
More difficult to find and in my opinion worth seeking out is Julius Echter Hefeweizen from Wurzbuger Hofbrau. This is a more complex and strongly flavored brew. The aroma is richly fruity, the palate is sharp and slightly tart and the appearance is a darker yellow by comparison with the Franzikaner.
Brewed closer to home, Vermont based Magic Hat’s Circus Boy is a very accessible American interpretation of the style. It is available in six-packs and as part of their “Joe’s Garage Sampler.”
Some notes on serving Hefe’s: In general this beer style has a tendency to generate an overabundant head. This can be tamed by rinsing your glass with cold water just prior to pouring and by carefully pouring it down the side until a small amount (about two inches) remains in the bottle. At this point stop pouring and swirl the bottle a few times to dislodge the yeasty sediment and then pour the remainder of the beer into your glass. Be sure to use a tall wide-mouthed glass if you can locate one. This will best showcase this great style’s exotic aroma and sunny appearance. Many places insist on serving a lemon wedge with a hefe. I recommend you pass on this, but the curious can ask their server for the lemon on the side and try it both ways.
Welcome to summer!
Thursday, May 25, 2006
Comings and Goings
This morning, while walking to the marina, I noticed that Atlantic Bagel Company was doing a brisk early morning trade. The clientele looked to be a mix of local fisherman and commuters grabbing something on the go. First Ave. is not usually that busy at 5:45 a.m. but it is always good to see a local business doing well.
Speaking of locals; it is with much sadness that I report the announced closing of the Heavyweight Brewery in Ocean Township. Tom Baker and Peggy Zwerver (a Husband and Wife team) are very active in the local craft beer scene. They are moving on to better things. While Heavyweight has been growing and making money, Tom and Peggy want to open a brew-pub where they can brew some of their own brews and also serve some of the other local craft beers as well. They have planned three more batches at their existing facility to exhaust their existing grain supply and then they will be moving on… While I wish them all the best, I am going to miss their fine brews (especially their Barley Wine and Baltic Porter) and I will be stocking up on all of them. If you are a fan I suggest you do likewise. I am sure there will be a transition party at the brewery. Look for notice here or on the Heavyweight Brewing web-page.
Another industry icon, Rolling Rock, formerly an InBev brand, has been acquired by Anheuser Busch. The acquisition includes the Rolling Rock trademarks and the recipes, but not the Old Latrobe Brewery. InBev will be selling the 1.3m barrel state-of-the art brewery to another purchaser as yet undetermined. Some are speculating that Boston Brewing Company (Sam Adam’s) and Sierra Nevada are likely candidates. There are certainly other possibilities including other U.S. Regional brewers or a brewer that is currently an import looking to bring their product to the North American market in fresher condition. I will keep you posted as I learn more.
I hope see some of you at the Atlantic Highlands PBA Ball. This year the proceeds from this charity event will benefit Patrolman Stephen Doherty to offset medical expenses. Michael Short and his team at Hunterdon Brewing have graciously donated a craft beer basket that will be available for bidding in the Silent Auction. My family and I have also donated a basket of tri-state craft brews and accessories to enhance your Bay Shore summer. It will be a great time for sure and it is another wonderful chance to socialize with old friends, make some new ones and help out a local hero too. Feel free to say Hello if you see me there.
On Monday, May 29, 2006, we will be honoring all those that have risked and sacrificed so much in pursuit of the liberty that we sometimes take for granted. This year commit to yourself that you will march in or attend a local parade, fly your flag proudly, register and vote at every opportunity and thank those that have served for their efforts. In fact each time you exercise your right to vote you are in effect thanking those that served.
To all who have served and continue to serve this great country, in peace or in war, thank you.
Until next week.
Speaking of locals; it is with much sadness that I report the announced closing of the Heavyweight Brewery in Ocean Township. Tom Baker and Peggy Zwerver (a Husband and Wife team) are very active in the local craft beer scene. They are moving on to better things. While Heavyweight has been growing and making money, Tom and Peggy want to open a brew-pub where they can brew some of their own brews and also serve some of the other local craft beers as well. They have planned three more batches at their existing facility to exhaust their existing grain supply and then they will be moving on… While I wish them all the best, I am going to miss their fine brews (especially their Barley Wine and Baltic Porter) and I will be stocking up on all of them. If you are a fan I suggest you do likewise. I am sure there will be a transition party at the brewery. Look for notice here or on the Heavyweight Brewing web-page.
Another industry icon, Rolling Rock, formerly an InBev brand, has been acquired by Anheuser Busch. The acquisition includes the Rolling Rock trademarks and the recipes, but not the Old Latrobe Brewery. InBev will be selling the 1.3m barrel state-of-the art brewery to another purchaser as yet undetermined. Some are speculating that Boston Brewing Company (Sam Adam’s) and Sierra Nevada are likely candidates. There are certainly other possibilities including other U.S. Regional brewers or a brewer that is currently an import looking to bring their product to the North American market in fresher condition. I will keep you posted as I learn more.
I hope see some of you at the Atlantic Highlands PBA Ball. This year the proceeds from this charity event will benefit Patrolman Stephen Doherty to offset medical expenses. Michael Short and his team at Hunterdon Brewing have graciously donated a craft beer basket that will be available for bidding in the Silent Auction. My family and I have also donated a basket of tri-state craft brews and accessories to enhance your Bay Shore summer. It will be a great time for sure and it is another wonderful chance to socialize with old friends, make some new ones and help out a local hero too. Feel free to say Hello if you see me there.
On Monday, May 29, 2006, we will be honoring all those that have risked and sacrificed so much in pursuit of the liberty that we sometimes take for granted. This year commit to yourself that you will march in or attend a local parade, fly your flag proudly, register and vote at every opportunity and thank those that have served for their efforts. In fact each time you exercise your right to vote you are in effect thanking those that served.
To all who have served and continue to serve this great country, in peace or in war, thank you.
Until next week.
Craft Beer in Cans (Part 2)
The Bay Shore is glorious this morning; clear blue skies, rain-washed fresh air, gulls wheeling in aerial waltzes. This natural beauty always reminds me why we moved here in the first instance. What a perfect day, shame I had to spoil it by gong to work. Alas, good beer is not free, so in order to support my habit it’s off to work I must go…
It seems that a new good beer is arriving in the local stores each week this spring. Most of it is packaged in the traditional brown glass bottles. This is great, but it does limit the discriminating drinker’s options when attending venues where glass is just not appropriate. Weep and gnash your teeth no more -just in time for beach, pool and boating season we have some great new choices in unbreakable packaging. While you could always pick up inexpensive national brands in cans, as well as some of the mainstream imports, craft brews in cans have been virtually non-existent. This changed last fall with the arrival on our shores of The Oskar Blues Brewery’s “Dale’s Pale Ale” and “Old Chub” (a delightfully malty Scotch Style Ale). Now in cans and new in the local stores are two brews from Sly Fox Brewing of Royersford, Pennsylvania, “Phoenix Pale Ale” and “Pikeland Pils.”
I have taken it upon myself to sample these two examples of the brewer’s art and can say without question that these beers are both first rate. You do not have to trust me; just ask Rich Young my neighbor. Rich is often the victim of my boring monologues on beer and this past weekend was no exception. Rich is a Dale’s Pale Ale fanatic so I knew he would bite when I offered up the competition. In a side by side tasting Rich concluded that while the Phoenix Pale Ale was indeed spectacular, Dale’s was still his preferred beer. Both brews are generously hopped with West Coast Hops (lots of citrus and pine flavor), though we both found the Dale’s to have a more aggressive profile. Personally I liked the strong malt presence in the Phoenix and will definitely stock up on this brew. The preceding notwithstanding, Dale’s is a great restorative glass after a grueling day of home maintenance.
For Dan Kilduff, and, those that prefer a subtler and less aggressive brews, the Pikeland Pils, a German-Style Pilsner, may be just the ticket. The Pikeland compares favorably with Troeg’s “Sunshine Pils” and Victory’s “Prima Pils” but in a convenient unbreakable package…a blind taste test may follow. Initial comments-pours a clear sunshine yellow with a generous pillow of white head. Aroma of wet grass, green leaves and faint, bready-malts. Taste is, initially, a touch sweet but a firm but not overpowering hop presence is there to balance things out. Dan this is a great beer in a can that won’t break if you drop it while cleaning that beautiful pool of yours.
The Sly Fox brews are packaged in 12 pack corrugated cardboard cartons and available at Spirits Unlimited on Newman Springs Road in Red Bank. The Oskar Blues products are available in our town at the Copper Basket on First Avenue.
Now the only dilemma facing Atlantic Highlands is how we get good craft beer served at the Shore Casino…sigh.
Until next time…
It seems that a new good beer is arriving in the local stores each week this spring. Most of it is packaged in the traditional brown glass bottles. This is great, but it does limit the discriminating drinker’s options when attending venues where glass is just not appropriate. Weep and gnash your teeth no more -just in time for beach, pool and boating season we have some great new choices in unbreakable packaging. While you could always pick up inexpensive national brands in cans, as well as some of the mainstream imports, craft brews in cans have been virtually non-existent. This changed last fall with the arrival on our shores of The Oskar Blues Brewery’s “Dale’s Pale Ale” and “Old Chub” (a delightfully malty Scotch Style Ale). Now in cans and new in the local stores are two brews from Sly Fox Brewing of Royersford, Pennsylvania, “Phoenix Pale Ale” and “Pikeland Pils.”
I have taken it upon myself to sample these two examples of the brewer’s art and can say without question that these beers are both first rate. You do not have to trust me; just ask Rich Young my neighbor. Rich is often the victim of my boring monologues on beer and this past weekend was no exception. Rich is a Dale’s Pale Ale fanatic so I knew he would bite when I offered up the competition. In a side by side tasting Rich concluded that while the Phoenix Pale Ale was indeed spectacular, Dale’s was still his preferred beer. Both brews are generously hopped with West Coast Hops (lots of citrus and pine flavor), though we both found the Dale’s to have a more aggressive profile. Personally I liked the strong malt presence in the Phoenix and will definitely stock up on this brew. The preceding notwithstanding, Dale’s is a great restorative glass after a grueling day of home maintenance.
For Dan Kilduff, and, those that prefer a subtler and less aggressive brews, the Pikeland Pils, a German-Style Pilsner, may be just the ticket. The Pikeland compares favorably with Troeg’s “Sunshine Pils” and Victory’s “Prima Pils” but in a convenient unbreakable package…a blind taste test may follow. Initial comments-pours a clear sunshine yellow with a generous pillow of white head. Aroma of wet grass, green leaves and faint, bready-malts. Taste is, initially, a touch sweet but a firm but not overpowering hop presence is there to balance things out. Dan this is a great beer in a can that won’t break if you drop it while cleaning that beautiful pool of yours.
The Sly Fox brews are packaged in 12 pack corrugated cardboard cartons and available at Spirits Unlimited on Newman Springs Road in Red Bank. The Oskar Blues products are available in our town at the Copper Basket on First Avenue.
Now the only dilemma facing Atlantic Highlands is how we get good craft beer served at the Shore Casino…sigh.
Until next time…
Spring is in the air
Spring has finally come to our little slice of Paradise. The Robins are back and feasting on the worms in my backyard, the sweet sound of birdsong greets me as I walk to catch the ferry and the need for a top-coat has thankfully lapsed…Now all we need is more spring rain. The hundred or so little seedlings that Cub Scout Pack 22 planted last week need a good soak.
With the spring season comes a changing of the guard as respects the seasonal selections available at the local stores. Out with the Double Bocks and Barley Wines! Be gone all the malty and decadent Winter Warmers and Hello to all the bright Crisp Pilsners, White Ales and Mai-Bocks. The longer days and warmer temperatures have got this beer drinker yearning for something a little lighter. I yearn to pour a glass of liquid sunshine to match the delicate spring greens and other light fare that appeal to the palate this time of year. Presently I am enjoying Troeg’s Sunshine Pils, a fresh fruity take on this style. It pours a bright sunshine yellow, with a generous white head, a pleasing, fresh hop aroma and a balanced palate. This Pilsner style beer is definitely a nice refreshing glass that I readily pair with a spring salad and some fresh grilled fare.
Also new in the local stores, from the good folks at Smuttynose Brewing, Smuttynose’s Summer Weizen. In the brewer’s own words it is “ Light, tasty & full of character, … brewed with a combination of domestic and continental wheat and barley malts, lightly hopped & fermented with a Belgian wit yeast,” Sounds like it’s worth a try to me. The folks at Smuttynose take great pride in their work and it shows in their brews. Their “Big Beer Series” is a line-up of well crafted and innovative interpretations of traditional (and non-traditional) brews.
I am also looking forward to picking up some of Victory Brewing Company’s Prima Pils. This brew is available year-round - but I like to enjoy Pilsners when it is warm enough to appreciate a well chilled brew while outside. On the seasonal side, look sharp for Victory’s Whirlwind Wit. This brew is a refreshing interpretation of the Belgian Wit style. Spiced with citrus and coriander this brew pours a hazy sunshine yellow with a white creamy head and abundant carbonation. Pair this brew with some spicy Barbecue, Sichuan or Thai food.
The Patio is finished and we can’t wait to plant those Jersey Tomatoes and Jalapenos…
Til next time.
With the spring season comes a changing of the guard as respects the seasonal selections available at the local stores. Out with the Double Bocks and Barley Wines! Be gone all the malty and decadent Winter Warmers and Hello to all the bright Crisp Pilsners, White Ales and Mai-Bocks. The longer days and warmer temperatures have got this beer drinker yearning for something a little lighter. I yearn to pour a glass of liquid sunshine to match the delicate spring greens and other light fare that appeal to the palate this time of year. Presently I am enjoying Troeg’s Sunshine Pils, a fresh fruity take on this style. It pours a bright sunshine yellow, with a generous white head, a pleasing, fresh hop aroma and a balanced palate. This Pilsner style beer is definitely a nice refreshing glass that I readily pair with a spring salad and some fresh grilled fare.
Also new in the local stores, from the good folks at Smuttynose Brewing, Smuttynose’s Summer Weizen. In the brewer’s own words it is “ Light, tasty & full of character, … brewed with a combination of domestic and continental wheat and barley malts, lightly hopped & fermented with a Belgian wit yeast,” Sounds like it’s worth a try to me. The folks at Smuttynose take great pride in their work and it shows in their brews. Their “Big Beer Series” is a line-up of well crafted and innovative interpretations of traditional (and non-traditional) brews.
I am also looking forward to picking up some of Victory Brewing Company’s Prima Pils. This brew is available year-round - but I like to enjoy Pilsners when it is warm enough to appreciate a well chilled brew while outside. On the seasonal side, look sharp for Victory’s Whirlwind Wit. This brew is a refreshing interpretation of the Belgian Wit style. Spiced with citrus and coriander this brew pours a hazy sunshine yellow with a white creamy head and abundant carbonation. Pair this brew with some spicy Barbecue, Sichuan or Thai food.
The Patio is finished and we can’t wait to plant those Jersey Tomatoes and Jalapenos…
Til next time.
News and Brews
It is a delightful day here on the Bay Shore. This morning’s walk to the 6 O’clock ferry was very refreshing. It apparently rained a little last night and the air had that refreshingly moist quality that follows such events. The past month at work and various family events have fully occupied my time - making a weekly column a bit of a challenge to undertake. Alas, a break from work at least is in order so let me share a few items that have been tumbling around my head these past weeks.
I have been following a few exciting trends in the American brewing scene. In particular a Wall Street Journal column on Anheuser Busch noted that the brewer is looking to craft brewed and organic products to boost its flagging sales. It seems big beer has come to realize that more and more Americans want beers that actually have some taste. In fact, the have actually started to boost the hop levels in their mainstream products as well. For more info on this interesting turn click on the following link: Anheuser-Busch Lets Ohio And New England Beer Drinkers Pick Hometown Specialty Brew . Sadly, the Big Apple and environs have not been tapped for any experimental products, but the reports that I have read online about the tasting sessions have been very intriguing. Of course this news is not without its share of controversy. Many craft beer aficionados see this as another attempt by the Great Satan to drive the craft brewers out of business. Personally, I think it is very encouraging that an American Icon is reaching out to satisfy the taste yearnings of a broader audience. The converts to these brews will no doubt include many dedicated AB product drinkers who are very brand loyal and will try these brews because they are from the folks that bring you “Bud.” Most Craft brew fans will continue to support the craft brews and imports that they already know and enjoy.
Variety is the spice of life. On a given day I have around forty to fifty different brews on hand. Some I keep cold and some I cellar for future consumption. This allows me to match a brew with my mood, a meal or a guest. This also takes up a fair bit of shelf space and has driven me to purchase more singles and fewer sixes and twelve-packs. I cannot recall the last time I purchased a case of anything. In this regard, Bob the Beer Guy, the Beer Manager of Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank has arranged a selection of brews that you can purchase as a mixed six-pack. The variety of beers available changes frequently so it is a great way to mix and match and experiment with new brews and new styles. Thanks Bob!
Stone Beers have finally arrived in New Jersey thanks to Mike Short and Hunterdon Brewing! Get thee to Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank and Middletown and stock up on Arrogant Bastard, Stone Ruination IPA and Stone IPA. I understand that other varieties will follow shortly. I was fortunate enough to score a Jeroboam of Oaked Arrogant Bastard to christen our new patio with.
Lastly, this week, in the Dining and Wine section of The New York Times, Eric Azimov has written an excellent article on Belgian Lambics. Eric is a great writer and has written several articles on different beer varieties. Eric also has a blog called The Pour where he muses about all things spirituous and gives you the chance to spout off as well.
Welcome to spring, I hope to see you around town!
I have been following a few exciting trends in the American brewing scene. In particular a Wall Street Journal column on Anheuser Busch noted that the brewer is looking to craft brewed and organic products to boost its flagging sales. It seems big beer has come to realize that more and more Americans want beers that actually have some taste. In fact, the have actually started to boost the hop levels in their mainstream products as well. For more info on this interesting turn click on the following link: Anheuser-Busch Lets Ohio And New England Beer Drinkers Pick Hometown Specialty Brew . Sadly, the Big Apple and environs have not been tapped for any experimental products, but the reports that I have read online about the tasting sessions have been very intriguing. Of course this news is not without its share of controversy. Many craft beer aficionados see this as another attempt by the Great Satan to drive the craft brewers out of business. Personally, I think it is very encouraging that an American Icon is reaching out to satisfy the taste yearnings of a broader audience. The converts to these brews will no doubt include many dedicated AB product drinkers who are very brand loyal and will try these brews because they are from the folks that bring you “Bud.” Most Craft brew fans will continue to support the craft brews and imports that they already know and enjoy.
Variety is the spice of life. On a given day I have around forty to fifty different brews on hand. Some I keep cold and some I cellar for future consumption. This allows me to match a brew with my mood, a meal or a guest. This also takes up a fair bit of shelf space and has driven me to purchase more singles and fewer sixes and twelve-packs. I cannot recall the last time I purchased a case of anything. In this regard, Bob the Beer Guy, the Beer Manager of Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank has arranged a selection of brews that you can purchase as a mixed six-pack. The variety of beers available changes frequently so it is a great way to mix and match and experiment with new brews and new styles. Thanks Bob!
Stone Beers have finally arrived in New Jersey thanks to Mike Short and Hunterdon Brewing! Get thee to Spirits Unlimited in Red Bank and Middletown and stock up on Arrogant Bastard, Stone Ruination IPA and Stone IPA. I understand that other varieties will follow shortly. I was fortunate enough to score a Jeroboam of Oaked Arrogant Bastard to christen our new patio with.
Lastly, this week, in the Dining and Wine section of The New York Times, Eric Azimov has written an excellent article on Belgian Lambics. Eric is a great writer and has written several articles on different beer varieties. Eric also has a blog called The Pour where he muses about all things spirituous and gives you the chance to spout off as well.
Welcome to spring, I hope to see you around town!
Wednesday, March 29, 2006
The Counter-Pilsner (R)evolution?
It is a bright and sunny day in the Financial District and interesting things are brewing in the world of beer…
The headlines in the business sections today included news that Anheuser-Busch, the world’s largest brewer, is engaged in talks with several mid-sized breweries in India. Per capita the Indian’s drink less than one liter of beer per person per year. On the other hand, Indian beer sales are increasing on an average of 7% -10% per year. In the United States mainstream beer consumption has been generally on the decline, though the one bright spot on this gloomy outlook is that American craft brewers are steadily increasing their sales. What will A-B do to meet analyst’s growth expectations? Domestically the good folks that bring you Budweiser have sought out different avenues to enhance their revenue stream. Recent efforts have included expanded seasonal offerings such as Bare Knuckle Stout and Jack’s Pumpkin Ale, craft brews like the excellent Brewmaster’s Private Reserve and even an Organic Beer called “Wild Hop” available in some upscale grocery markets. In another direction they have inked distribution deals for imports such as Tiger and Grolsch. A_B has also approached some of the larger regional craft brewers such as Old Dominion and Red Hook for the rights to distribute their brews. And of course they advertise and advertise and advertise….
Wherever you look in our town: The neon adorned windows of First Avenue; The billboards on Route 36; plastered on the sides of Distributor’s trucks; emblazoned on summertime shore blimps; flapping on beach buzzing plane banners; and embroidered onto ball caps and t-shirts, the advertisements for Anheuser-Busch’s beer are there. The in-store posters show incredibly fit and beautiful men and women drinking responsibly in poses and clothes that highlight their svelte physiques. They seem to say “you too can be young and beautiful if you buy and drink our pale golden elixir”. Are you running to out to get some? Let me step out of your way, I have chosen the road less traveled, though my fellow travelers are apparently increasing in numbers at a healthy rate.
Enter Dogfish Head; a craft brewer from the First State, their tag line is “off-centered beers for off-centered people”. Sam Calgione, the founder of the brewery, has been featured in the Wall Street Journal, has produced numerous award winning beers, and has written a book on entering into the brewing business. His latest impish creation will be coming to a store near you.
For years people seeking better taste have derided the big brewer’s products by comparing the aforesaid brews with the by-products generated by mammalian fluid consumption – piss. I have seen t-shirts that show a man, his back to the viewer, urinating into a large vat with the caption “The creation of light beer” Well Sam Calgione, ever irreverent, has taken the assault to the next level. In my inbox Saturday I received an announcement from the brewer himself. He is introducing into the Dogfish Head stable of beers a product that will take back the good name of the Pilsner. Sam notes in his announcement that most of the larger brewers claim that their product is a “Pilsner Style” beer and frequently include a reference to that style on their labels. He takes them to task and points out in some detail the falsity of their claims:
“In the middle of the nineteenth century, in a land that is now the Czech Republic, the Pilsner beer style was born. The soft local water, the bottom-fermenting Bavarian Yeast, the local hops and the lightly toasted barley made it beloved the world over.
Unfortunately, the industrial breweries here in America have spent the better part of a century diluting and bastardizing this beer style to its hardly recognizable current state of existence. Over three quarters of the beer made and consumed in America is sold as Pilsner. But it doesn't have the alcohol content or the crisp, bracing, hop character of the old world standard. In fact, it doesn’t even have the same ingredients.”
He also describes the cheap ingredients used, the folly that led them to market their product on the basis bland and ice cold is better and the multi-billion dollar marketing budget that comes with these generally uninspiring products.
To counter this abuse of the Pilsner name he is brewing up a whopper of a brew. Using 100% Pilsner Barley and a healthy dose of European Hops and weighing in at 9% ABV Sam is presenting us a with a beer that he asserts is the secret to selling something that he wants people to buy and drink:
“INSTEAD OF MAKING IT INOFFENSIVE MAKE IT TASTE GOOD”
Sounds reasonable enough right? The name Sam has chosen for this new product? Why “Golden Shower” of course. A name that is funny on so many levels that it is guaranteed to generate more than a few chuckles from the younger crowd.
Sam promises no advertising, no marketing and has even shared the recipe with a Czech brewery for free, so long as they also agree not to advertise as well. Can a brewer succeed without advertising? Ask Sam, and what will he tell you? :
“Yup. Dogfish Head Craft Brewery has averaged over 50% revenue growth for the last three years and we are on the Inc. 500 list of the fastest growing private companies in America. We've achieved all of this even though our beers are among the strongest in alcohol and most expensive in the world. We do this by paying more attention to the quality of our beer then we do about creating an image or buying mind and market-share. We spend about 2% of our annual revenue on marketing or advertising any of our beers or any aspect of our company and yet we continue to grow stronger every day. And we are not alone. In 2005 overall beer sales in America grew less than one percent. Wine sales and Liquor sales were up around 4%. But craft beer sales were up 9% this past year; making ours the fastest growing adult beverage segment in the country. There are over 1400 craft breweries in America that contributed to this growth. Hardly any of us have sizable advertising campaigns to speak of. But then again we don't make our beer with cheaper ingredients like corn and rice either. What we do have is a growing, grassroots army of beer enthusiasts by our sides who have chosen quality over hype and are helping us spread the word. We wouldn't waste our Golden Shower on the kind of beer drinker who decides what to drink based on which brewery spends the most on advertising and the least on ingredients, we brewed it for the rest of us. “
As we near my 46th Birthday I hope my birthday gifts include a Golden Shower or three, which would be the bottled kind that is, wiseacre.
Cheers.
The headlines in the business sections today included news that Anheuser-Busch, the world’s largest brewer, is engaged in talks with several mid-sized breweries in India. Per capita the Indian’s drink less than one liter of beer per person per year. On the other hand, Indian beer sales are increasing on an average of 7% -10% per year. In the United States mainstream beer consumption has been generally on the decline, though the one bright spot on this gloomy outlook is that American craft brewers are steadily increasing their sales. What will A-B do to meet analyst’s growth expectations? Domestically the good folks that bring you Budweiser have sought out different avenues to enhance their revenue stream. Recent efforts have included expanded seasonal offerings such as Bare Knuckle Stout and Jack’s Pumpkin Ale, craft brews like the excellent Brewmaster’s Private Reserve and even an Organic Beer called “Wild Hop” available in some upscale grocery markets. In another direction they have inked distribution deals for imports such as Tiger and Grolsch. A_B has also approached some of the larger regional craft brewers such as Old Dominion and Red Hook for the rights to distribute their brews. And of course they advertise and advertise and advertise….
Wherever you look in our town: The neon adorned windows of First Avenue; The billboards on Route 36; plastered on the sides of Distributor’s trucks; emblazoned on summertime shore blimps; flapping on beach buzzing plane banners; and embroidered onto ball caps and t-shirts, the advertisements for Anheuser-Busch’s beer are there. The in-store posters show incredibly fit and beautiful men and women drinking responsibly in poses and clothes that highlight their svelte physiques. They seem to say “you too can be young and beautiful if you buy and drink our pale golden elixir”. Are you running to out to get some? Let me step out of your way, I have chosen the road less traveled, though my fellow travelers are apparently increasing in numbers at a healthy rate.
Enter Dogfish Head; a craft brewer from the First State, their tag line is “off-centered beers for off-centered people”. Sam Calgione, the founder of the brewery, has been featured in the Wall Street Journal, has produced numerous award winning beers, and has written a book on entering into the brewing business. His latest impish creation will be coming to a store near you.
For years people seeking better taste have derided the big brewer’s products by comparing the aforesaid brews with the by-products generated by mammalian fluid consumption – piss. I have seen t-shirts that show a man, his back to the viewer, urinating into a large vat with the caption “The creation of light beer” Well Sam Calgione, ever irreverent, has taken the assault to the next level. In my inbox Saturday I received an announcement from the brewer himself. He is introducing into the Dogfish Head stable of beers a product that will take back the good name of the Pilsner. Sam notes in his announcement that most of the larger brewers claim that their product is a “Pilsner Style” beer and frequently include a reference to that style on their labels. He takes them to task and points out in some detail the falsity of their claims:
“In the middle of the nineteenth century, in a land that is now the Czech Republic, the Pilsner beer style was born. The soft local water, the bottom-fermenting Bavarian Yeast, the local hops and the lightly toasted barley made it beloved the world over.
Unfortunately, the industrial breweries here in America have spent the better part of a century diluting and bastardizing this beer style to its hardly recognizable current state of existence. Over three quarters of the beer made and consumed in America is sold as Pilsner. But it doesn't have the alcohol content or the crisp, bracing, hop character of the old world standard. In fact, it doesn’t even have the same ingredients.”
He also describes the cheap ingredients used, the folly that led them to market their product on the basis bland and ice cold is better and the multi-billion dollar marketing budget that comes with these generally uninspiring products.
To counter this abuse of the Pilsner name he is brewing up a whopper of a brew. Using 100% Pilsner Barley and a healthy dose of European Hops and weighing in at 9% ABV Sam is presenting us a with a beer that he asserts is the secret to selling something that he wants people to buy and drink:
“INSTEAD OF MAKING IT INOFFENSIVE MAKE IT TASTE GOOD”
Sounds reasonable enough right? The name Sam has chosen for this new product? Why “Golden Shower” of course. A name that is funny on so many levels that it is guaranteed to generate more than a few chuckles from the younger crowd.
Sam promises no advertising, no marketing and has even shared the recipe with a Czech brewery for free, so long as they also agree not to advertise as well. Can a brewer succeed without advertising? Ask Sam, and what will he tell you? :
“Yup. Dogfish Head Craft Brewery has averaged over 50% revenue growth for the last three years and we are on the Inc. 500 list of the fastest growing private companies in America. We've achieved all of this even though our beers are among the strongest in alcohol and most expensive in the world. We do this by paying more attention to the quality of our beer then we do about creating an image or buying mind and market-share. We spend about 2% of our annual revenue on marketing or advertising any of our beers or any aspect of our company and yet we continue to grow stronger every day. And we are not alone. In 2005 overall beer sales in America grew less than one percent. Wine sales and Liquor sales were up around 4%. But craft beer sales were up 9% this past year; making ours the fastest growing adult beverage segment in the country. There are over 1400 craft breweries in America that contributed to this growth. Hardly any of us have sizable advertising campaigns to speak of. But then again we don't make our beer with cheaper ingredients like corn and rice either. What we do have is a growing, grassroots army of beer enthusiasts by our sides who have chosen quality over hype and are helping us spread the word. We wouldn't waste our Golden Shower on the kind of beer drinker who decides what to drink based on which brewery spends the most on advertising and the least on ingredients, we brewed it for the rest of us. “
As we near my 46th Birthday I hope my birthday gifts include a Golden Shower or three, which would be the bottled kind that is, wiseacre.
Cheers.
Tuesday, March 21, 2006
Beer for Toads
Catchy Title this week, eh? In my efforts to keep you, the beer drinking cognoscenti of our little town on the bay, fully aware of global beer affairs I bring you this juicy tidbit from the land down under.
Boys and Girls the topic for the week is Cane Toads. Cane toads are a species of toad that is native to Central America. These huge toads (up to 5 lbs.) were imported to various parts of the globe, including Hawaii, Florida, the Caribbean and Australia as a means of controlling the pesky Sugar Cane Beetle. It was reasoned that these bug vacuuming behemoths would allow farmers to control these beetles without the use of pesticides.
Buzzzzzz - Wrong answer. Thanks for playing.
Sugar Cane Beetles reside in the upper portion of the sugarcane…far from the reach of these monstrous toads. To make matters worse, Cane toads (bufo marinus) excrete toxic fluids from glands on their backs and are thus toxic to predators, even in the tadpole stages, so they are breeding unchecked and driving out the native amphibian populations wherever they take hold. Alas, the good folks at Coopers Brewery in Australia have a solution. Beer for toads. Here is an extract from a recent article in the Northern Territory News:
“The RSPCA, Coopers Brewery and the Cavenagh Hotel have teamed up in the name of animal welfare and the result is that toads can be turned into beer.
In a move designed to turn seasoned Top End beer drinkers into lean, mean, toad-catching machines, the three Darwin organisations have got together to set up a toad-for-beer exchange.
Anyone over the age of 18 who captures a toad and delivers it alive to the Darwin RSPCA qualifies for a glass of icy cold Coopers beer at the Cavenagh Hotel.
``Everyone who takes a cane toad to the RSPCA to be disposed of humanely gets a voucher for a free pot of Coopers ale at the Cav,'' Coopers Brewery's NT sales executive Sean Gould said. “
So I gather they want the toads dead, - but from a kinder, gentler sort of death than say the one that a well placed Louisville Slugger or steel belted radial tire might administer…”
``No coupons for squashed toads,'' Mr Wilkinson said. “
He was keen to make it clear he wasn't starting a roadkill collection. ``Healthy, live, no squashed cane toads,'' he said.
And Mr Simmonds agreed, saying the deal was ``fresh toads for fresh beer''.
``The idea is to get people catching toads and taking them for humane disposal”
Now here is the line that might offend some people:
“Mr. Simmonds said no one would get a beer for taking a toad to the pub. “
I am Shocked! Shocked I tell you! What kind of blatant Amphibiphobia is this? If Neville Longbottom from the Harry Potter books has a toad, and he can bring it to Hogwarts why can’t I bring my pet toxic toad to the Harborside to share a pint of Bass Ale or a nice jar of Guinness? Sure you can kill them humanely, but don’t you dare try to share a pint with a toad before he’s off to meet his maker! Even the condemned gets a last meal. Humane treatment indeed - Hippocrates.
Outrage aside, this has me thinking. I wonder if Joe Reynolds and the Atlantic Highland’s Environmental Commission can arrange a reward system for humanely disposing of locally unwanted, invasive, excess Grey Squirrels? Anyone bringing a live, un-squashed, outwardly content, socially well adjusted, Grey Squirrel (like the ones in residence in my garage eaves) to the Monmouth County ASPCA for “retirement” gets a coupon for a nice Brown Ale? Make it two, one to savor in Squirrel-free bliss and one to toast the cute little grey fellow before he’s off to join the choir invisible? Sounds reasonable to me…
By the way Coopers is a great little brewery and they make some excellent if hard to find brews.
Cheers.
Boys and Girls the topic for the week is Cane Toads. Cane toads are a species of toad that is native to Central America. These huge toads (up to 5 lbs.) were imported to various parts of the globe, including Hawaii, Florida, the Caribbean and Australia as a means of controlling the pesky Sugar Cane Beetle. It was reasoned that these bug vacuuming behemoths would allow farmers to control these beetles without the use of pesticides.
Buzzzzzz - Wrong answer. Thanks for playing.
Sugar Cane Beetles reside in the upper portion of the sugarcane…far from the reach of these monstrous toads. To make matters worse, Cane toads (bufo marinus) excrete toxic fluids from glands on their backs and are thus toxic to predators, even in the tadpole stages, so they are breeding unchecked and driving out the native amphibian populations wherever they take hold. Alas, the good folks at Coopers Brewery in Australia have a solution. Beer for toads. Here is an extract from a recent article in the Northern Territory News:
“The RSPCA, Coopers Brewery and the Cavenagh Hotel have teamed up in the name of animal welfare and the result is that toads can be turned into beer.
In a move designed to turn seasoned Top End beer drinkers into lean, mean, toad-catching machines, the three Darwin organisations have got together to set up a toad-for-beer exchange.
Anyone over the age of 18 who captures a toad and delivers it alive to the Darwin RSPCA qualifies for a glass of icy cold Coopers beer at the Cavenagh Hotel.
``Everyone who takes a cane toad to the RSPCA to be disposed of humanely gets a voucher for a free pot of Coopers ale at the Cav,'' Coopers Brewery's NT sales executive Sean Gould said. “
So I gather they want the toads dead, - but from a kinder, gentler sort of death than say the one that a well placed Louisville Slugger or steel belted radial tire might administer…”
``No coupons for squashed toads,'' Mr Wilkinson said. “
He was keen to make it clear he wasn't starting a roadkill collection. ``Healthy, live, no squashed cane toads,'' he said.
And Mr Simmonds agreed, saying the deal was ``fresh toads for fresh beer''.
``The idea is to get people catching toads and taking them for humane disposal”
Now here is the line that might offend some people:
“Mr. Simmonds said no one would get a beer for taking a toad to the pub. “
I am Shocked! Shocked I tell you! What kind of blatant Amphibiphobia is this? If Neville Longbottom from the Harry Potter books has a toad, and he can bring it to Hogwarts why can’t I bring my pet toxic toad to the Harborside to share a pint of Bass Ale or a nice jar of Guinness? Sure you can kill them humanely, but don’t you dare try to share a pint with a toad before he’s off to meet his maker! Even the condemned gets a last meal. Humane treatment indeed - Hippocrates.
Outrage aside, this has me thinking. I wonder if Joe Reynolds and the Atlantic Highland’s Environmental Commission can arrange a reward system for humanely disposing of locally unwanted, invasive, excess Grey Squirrels? Anyone bringing a live, un-squashed, outwardly content, socially well adjusted, Grey Squirrel (like the ones in residence in my garage eaves) to the Monmouth County ASPCA for “retirement” gets a coupon for a nice Brown Ale? Make it two, one to savor in Squirrel-free bliss and one to toast the cute little grey fellow before he’s off to join the choir invisible? Sounds reasonable to me…
By the way Coopers is a great little brewery and they make some excellent if hard to find brews.
Cheers.
Thursday, March 16, 2006
In Praise of Porters
In Praise of Porters
It is a sunny morning in the Big Apple. Unbelievably they are predicting snow for tomorrow. The air is crisp and the sky is blue with sheets Cirrus Clouds layered over a few scattered Cumulus clouds, the whole skittering rapidly to the East. Sunlight sparkles on the surface of the East River and WNYC is announcing 36 Degrees in Central Park. Come on spring!
Porter is a style that few understand. I am guessing that much of this confusion arises in part because of the diversity of Porter types and partly because of the confusion that many have with the darker brews in general.
Porter is said to have been popular with manual laborers, in particular baggage and freight handlers of 18th Century London, hence the name. Contemporary accounts state that “Porter” was a blend of three different styles: old ale (frequently stale or soured), a new ale (a sweet brown ale) and a weak one or mild ale. Brewers experimented with various combinations of blending and staleness. The resulting brews were also commonly known as "Entire Butt" or "Three Threads" and had taste that was by all accounts refreshing and generally pleasing. Washington and Jefferson were said to be Porter Drinkers.
One way to look at a traditional Porter is to consider an analogy Scots Whisky. A Porter was not a Single Malt but rather a blended Scots Whisky. The blended product was an attempt at market to the public’s taste. A smoky Talisker is not for everyone, a blended Dewar’s however is likely to be appreciated even by the casual drinker. Blending three ales afforded the brewer the opportunity to sell more of the less popular “older” and “newer” brews. The resulting blends were vat aged for several months, sometimes over a year. Some of these vats held in excess of 500,000 gallons. Failure of a vat could and did have catastrophic consequences in the crowded streets of London.
The Porters of the late 1700’s were strong, perhaps 7% alcohol by volume. Some brewers made even stronger, more robust versions to be shipped to Northern Europe and Czarist Russia. These stronger brews were commonly referred to as “Baltic Porters”. While we cannot be absolutely certain as to the taste of these brews, we can speculate. In general, the style’s dark brown color masked the cloudiness that probably plagued the soured “older” ales. The Blending of a Sour Old Ale and a Sweet Young Ale likely masked brewing flaws that were common before sterilization and pasteurization. The addition of an “Old Ale” also lent an acidic/sour flavor, which made it more refreshing. Consider the refreshing sharp sourness of the Flemish Wild Ales or even Homemade Lemonade. I would imagine that on a hot day such a tart and acidic palate would be quite popular.
Historical records note that before he started brewing his popular “Stouts”, Sir Arthur Guinness' brewed Porter. In fact the Guinness product line included a Porter up until the mid 1970’s.
Even with the mass-production of Porter, some breweries could not keep up with the demand for the unique blending of old and new ales, since a portion of the blend could only be created by a long period of maturation. In response to economic pressure some brewers resorted to molasses and burnt sugar to artificially color their ales. Others apparently introduced “additives” to enhance the brews intoxicating effects (opium, hemp, strychnine, and tobacco for example). Not surprisingly, some porter drinkers fell ill or even died as a result of these experiments.
Following the introduction of the Pale Ale and Lager Styles, with their greater clarity and their well hopped flavor profiles, Porters became a breweries second or third product, and in many cases were dropped altogether. Eventually the style dropped off the radar and was only available in a few niche markets.
Today, Porter has made something of a comeback. Most craft brewers include Stout and Porter in their product lines. Long gone, however, is the “Blended Porter.” Modern-day Porters are typically brewed using a pale malt base with the addition of black malt, crystal, chocolate or smoked brown malt. With a nod to tradition, some brewers will age their beers after adding a shot of bacteria to create an “authentic” taste. Many porters also spend a little time in wood barrels to impart an oaky, smoky flavor profile.
Caught your interest? Ready to take the plunge? There are many readily available modern-day Porters for you to enjoy. To explore the American Porter Style I would start with Anchor’s Brewing’s “Anchor Porter”, Smuttynose’s “Robust Porter”, or Sierra Nevada’s “Porter”. For a “Baltic” Style Porter consider Heavyweight’s “Perkuno’s Hammer”, Sinebrychoff’s “Porter” or Flying Dog’s “Gonzo Porter.” For a contrast consider a British Style Porter such as Fuller’s “London Porter”, Samuel Smith’s “Taddy Porter” and the flavorful and rich (not to mention somewhat pricey) Salopian Brewery’s “Entire Butt.”
Happy Saint Patrick’s Day folks!
It is a sunny morning in the Big Apple. Unbelievably they are predicting snow for tomorrow. The air is crisp and the sky is blue with sheets Cirrus Clouds layered over a few scattered Cumulus clouds, the whole skittering rapidly to the East. Sunlight sparkles on the surface of the East River and WNYC is announcing 36 Degrees in Central Park. Come on spring!
Porter is a style that few understand. I am guessing that much of this confusion arises in part because of the diversity of Porter types and partly because of the confusion that many have with the darker brews in general.
Porter is said to have been popular with manual laborers, in particular baggage and freight handlers of 18th Century London, hence the name. Contemporary accounts state that “Porter” was a blend of three different styles: old ale (frequently stale or soured), a new ale (a sweet brown ale) and a weak one or mild ale. Brewers experimented with various combinations of blending and staleness. The resulting brews were also commonly known as "Entire Butt" or "Three Threads" and had taste that was by all accounts refreshing and generally pleasing. Washington and Jefferson were said to be Porter Drinkers.
One way to look at a traditional Porter is to consider an analogy Scots Whisky. A Porter was not a Single Malt but rather a blended Scots Whisky. The blended product was an attempt at market to the public’s taste. A smoky Talisker is not for everyone, a blended Dewar’s however is likely to be appreciated even by the casual drinker. Blending three ales afforded the brewer the opportunity to sell more of the less popular “older” and “newer” brews. The resulting blends were vat aged for several months, sometimes over a year. Some of these vats held in excess of 500,000 gallons. Failure of a vat could and did have catastrophic consequences in the crowded streets of London.
The Porters of the late 1700’s were strong, perhaps 7% alcohol by volume. Some brewers made even stronger, more robust versions to be shipped to Northern Europe and Czarist Russia. These stronger brews were commonly referred to as “Baltic Porters”. While we cannot be absolutely certain as to the taste of these brews, we can speculate. In general, the style’s dark brown color masked the cloudiness that probably plagued the soured “older” ales. The Blending of a Sour Old Ale and a Sweet Young Ale likely masked brewing flaws that were common before sterilization and pasteurization. The addition of an “Old Ale” also lent an acidic/sour flavor, which made it more refreshing. Consider the refreshing sharp sourness of the Flemish Wild Ales or even Homemade Lemonade. I would imagine that on a hot day such a tart and acidic palate would be quite popular.
Historical records note that before he started brewing his popular “Stouts”, Sir Arthur Guinness' brewed Porter. In fact the Guinness product line included a Porter up until the mid 1970’s.
Even with the mass-production of Porter, some breweries could not keep up with the demand for the unique blending of old and new ales, since a portion of the blend could only be created by a long period of maturation. In response to economic pressure some brewers resorted to molasses and burnt sugar to artificially color their ales. Others apparently introduced “additives” to enhance the brews intoxicating effects (opium, hemp, strychnine, and tobacco for example). Not surprisingly, some porter drinkers fell ill or even died as a result of these experiments.
Following the introduction of the Pale Ale and Lager Styles, with their greater clarity and their well hopped flavor profiles, Porters became a breweries second or third product, and in many cases were dropped altogether. Eventually the style dropped off the radar and was only available in a few niche markets.
Today, Porter has made something of a comeback. Most craft brewers include Stout and Porter in their product lines. Long gone, however, is the “Blended Porter.” Modern-day Porters are typically brewed using a pale malt base with the addition of black malt, crystal, chocolate or smoked brown malt. With a nod to tradition, some brewers will age their beers after adding a shot of bacteria to create an “authentic” taste. Many porters also spend a little time in wood barrels to impart an oaky, smoky flavor profile.
Caught your interest? Ready to take the plunge? There are many readily available modern-day Porters for you to enjoy. To explore the American Porter Style I would start with Anchor’s Brewing’s “Anchor Porter”, Smuttynose’s “Robust Porter”, or Sierra Nevada’s “Porter”. For a “Baltic” Style Porter consider Heavyweight’s “Perkuno’s Hammer”, Sinebrychoff’s “Porter” or Flying Dog’s “Gonzo Porter.” For a contrast consider a British Style Porter such as Fuller’s “London Porter”, Samuel Smith’s “Taddy Porter” and the flavorful and rich (not to mention somewhat pricey) Salopian Brewery’s “Entire Butt.”
Happy Saint Patrick’s Day folks!
Thursday, March 09, 2006
Beer from the Magic Kingdom
This past week my duties called me to the Spring Meeting of the National Association of Insurance Commissioners at Disney World. Your State insurance regulators are an affable bunch of hardworking folks that are charged with protecting the consumers of insurance products. Given the diversity of insurance products and services, they have their work cut out for them. That however is another story. In between the flurry of meetings and panel discussions (not to mention dinners and receptions) I found the time, with my faithful beer companion Albert, to walk out onto the Disney Boardwalk to observe the Big River Brewery. The Big River Brewery is part of a chain of Microbreweries owned by Gordon Biersch. My family and I have fond memories of the Big River Brewery in Chattanooga Tennessee. Excellent food, kid friendly and they pour a decent pint…not to mention the fact that it is right across the street from the Tennessee Aquarium, a neat place that you must see if you have the occasion to be in North-West Georgia or Eastern Tennessee. The Disney locale lacks the dark wood ambience and charm of the Tennessee venue but it does offer the only fresh brewed pint in the entire Magic Kingdom. Surely Walt himself would have preferred a fresh brewed pint, brewed within his realm, to a mass-marketed product imported from elsewhere. The menu was diverse and reasonably priced by Disney standards. The wait staff and bar tenders were attentive and friendly. Our bar tender Gary was obviously proud of the brewery and its products and went to great lengths to describe each of the brews offered and the flavor profile of each. If you happen to be at Disney World and in need a pint and a meal to sustain you, give this place a shot.
Sometimes I can go to extremes to obtain a new beer to try. This weekend was no exception. Just because it’s Florida doesn’t mean there isn’t any good beer to be found, right? Right. In my case the source of my present elation is a non-descript liquor store called “Big C”. On University Ave in Winter Park (part of Greater Orlando), just a short trip from the rental car drop-off, this diamond in the rough is strategically located next to a Winn Dixie and a short walk to Keller’s Barbecue…purveyors of a deliciously smoky pork sandwich. The store interior is bright and airy. It boasts a great section of Belgians not to mention many other European Brews. They also have the superlative craft brews of Great Divide and some more pedestrian Colorado brews including Tommy knocker. The little voice in the back of my head said “how the heck are you going to get this stuff home?” The beer lover in me bludgeoned the pesky voice into submission and purchased two bombers of Great Divide (Double IPA and Oak Aged Stout)Two Magnums from Meantime, UK (One Porter, One IPA), a 750 ml. of Flying Dog Brewery’s “Wild Dog” (Weizen Bock) and two 750’s from Val Dieu (Brune and Blonde). I also scored six new beer glasses for the collection.
The bounty safely secured in the car I pondered the logistics of the pending operation. How was I going to get this stuff home without winding up in Federal Custody? At this point, the little voice was alternating “I told you So” with “Sir, please come with me we have some questions regarding your baggage.” Surely the bottles will clink together and break in transit. If not they will definitely burst in the un-pressurized baggage compartment. Concluding that the latter was not likely I still had to ponder the former. Like a bolt from the blue the solution sprung forth from my troubled mind. I needed Bubble-wrap! Like an Oasis in the desert, Office Max loomed on my horizon. I quickly found the bubble-wrap and the packing tape I needed to safeguard my goods. Happy, I resumed my drive back to Disney World.
My simple solution was however not without its flaws, as I pondered the upcoming packing event; I realized that I needed something to cut the tape and bubble-wrap. Eureka! There was Lowe’s on the right, what better place to locate a fine piece of cutlery to cut wrap and tape. I purchased a nice little Gerber lock-back and back to the Magic Kingdom I went. About the time I reached the park entrance I recalled that the knife was packaged in one of those annoying clam-shell packages that are hermetically sealed and immune to assault by well honed incisors. Packaging so cunningly designed that it is guaranteed to injure or maim the unwary and ill-equipped. The only cutting implement I possessed was the Homeland Security Approved Nail Clipper…It may take some time I thought, but it will do the trick…I hoped. In the event it did work, barely, but it did take quite some time. I carefully wrapped and arranged my bottles in my rolling carry-on bag. I had packed an extra duffle to carry my coat home and that provided a safe and soft place to carry the six glasses I purchased as well as the obligatory Disney sweatshirts and t-shirts for the rest of the Clan.
Several days later I found myself on my way to the Airport. Apprehensive of my predicament to say the least. Weighing in at just less than 50 pounds (phew!), my roller bag was way too weighty for carrying on. I checked it and hoped for the best. No request from the baggage examiners to please come with them. No pre-flight announcement to report to the Security Desk or meet an Airline Representative. I boarded my flight thinking “So far so good”. Upon arrival in Newark, it seemed to take an eternity for the bags to arrive, and when they did my satchel was dead last. I imagined it arriving in a beer soaked plastic tray with a nasty letters from Homeland Security and from the Airline. Alas, in the end it was all a non-event. My worst fears never materialized and all my goodies arrived safe and sound.
You can be sure that when my Lenten Fast is concluded I will have some world class brews to enjoy.
Cheers…and thank heavens for bubble wrap!
Sometimes I can go to extremes to obtain a new beer to try. This weekend was no exception. Just because it’s Florida doesn’t mean there isn’t any good beer to be found, right? Right. In my case the source of my present elation is a non-descript liquor store called “Big C”. On University Ave in Winter Park (part of Greater Orlando), just a short trip from the rental car drop-off, this diamond in the rough is strategically located next to a Winn Dixie and a short walk to Keller’s Barbecue…purveyors of a deliciously smoky pork sandwich. The store interior is bright and airy. It boasts a great section of Belgians not to mention many other European Brews. They also have the superlative craft brews of Great Divide and some more pedestrian Colorado brews including Tommy knocker. The little voice in the back of my head said “how the heck are you going to get this stuff home?” The beer lover in me bludgeoned the pesky voice into submission and purchased two bombers of Great Divide (Double IPA and Oak Aged Stout)Two Magnums from Meantime, UK (One Porter, One IPA), a 750 ml. of Flying Dog Brewery’s “Wild Dog” (Weizen Bock) and two 750’s from Val Dieu (Brune and Blonde). I also scored six new beer glasses for the collection.
The bounty safely secured in the car I pondered the logistics of the pending operation. How was I going to get this stuff home without winding up in Federal Custody? At this point, the little voice was alternating “I told you So” with “Sir, please come with me we have some questions regarding your baggage.” Surely the bottles will clink together and break in transit. If not they will definitely burst in the un-pressurized baggage compartment. Concluding that the latter was not likely I still had to ponder the former. Like a bolt from the blue the solution sprung forth from my troubled mind. I needed Bubble-wrap! Like an Oasis in the desert, Office Max loomed on my horizon. I quickly found the bubble-wrap and the packing tape I needed to safeguard my goods. Happy, I resumed my drive back to Disney World.
My simple solution was however not without its flaws, as I pondered the upcoming packing event; I realized that I needed something to cut the tape and bubble-wrap. Eureka! There was Lowe’s on the right, what better place to locate a fine piece of cutlery to cut wrap and tape. I purchased a nice little Gerber lock-back and back to the Magic Kingdom I went. About the time I reached the park entrance I recalled that the knife was packaged in one of those annoying clam-shell packages that are hermetically sealed and immune to assault by well honed incisors. Packaging so cunningly designed that it is guaranteed to injure or maim the unwary and ill-equipped. The only cutting implement I possessed was the Homeland Security Approved Nail Clipper…It may take some time I thought, but it will do the trick…I hoped. In the event it did work, barely, but it did take quite some time. I carefully wrapped and arranged my bottles in my rolling carry-on bag. I had packed an extra duffle to carry my coat home and that provided a safe and soft place to carry the six glasses I purchased as well as the obligatory Disney sweatshirts and t-shirts for the rest of the Clan.
Several days later I found myself on my way to the Airport. Apprehensive of my predicament to say the least. Weighing in at just less than 50 pounds (phew!), my roller bag was way too weighty for carrying on. I checked it and hoped for the best. No request from the baggage examiners to please come with them. No pre-flight announcement to report to the Security Desk or meet an Airline Representative. I boarded my flight thinking “So far so good”. Upon arrival in Newark, it seemed to take an eternity for the bags to arrive, and when they did my satchel was dead last. I imagined it arriving in a beer soaked plastic tray with a nasty letters from Homeland Security and from the Airline. Alas, in the end it was all a non-event. My worst fears never materialized and all my goodies arrived safe and sound.
You can be sure that when my Lenten Fast is concluded I will have some world class brews to enjoy.
Cheers…and thank heavens for bubble wrap!
Wednesday, March 01, 2006
Murder, Mayhem and Brown Ale
I am not a person that watches a great deal of deal of Television. This probably accounts for my utter lack of knowledge of current cultural references when it comes to clothing, music and what-not. Nor am I a person you want to talk to about spectator sports like Baseball or Hockey (like watching paint dry to me). History and useless trivia are more my style. “My Dad is a Square” is what my kids say! Heck Yeah I say and darn proud of it too! I do however have a weakness for English Television, in particular the shows that PBS featured on Mystery!” Whether it is “Prime Suspect” with Helen Mirren, Derek Jacoby as “Cadfael” or the late John Thaw as “Inspector Morse”, I am hooked and will not lift my eyes from the tube until the show has run its course. It is the latter that inspired me to first try, what is now one of my favorite styles of beer, English Brown Ale. Whilst reviewing the facts with his assistant “Lewis” in a Cambridge Pub the good Inspector would gingerly sip his “Jar” of Brown Ale. As the brown liquid receded leaving a delicate lace-like pattern on the glass, our hero would relive the victims last moments and ponder the identity of the perpetrator, all this against a backdrop of his catastrophic personal life and the bucolic English Countryside. Ahh but I digress.
Brown Ale is a style that is contemplative by nature. Similar in many respects to the English Mild Ales, Brown Ales tend to be maltier and sweeter on the palate, with a fuller body. Color can range from reddish-brown to dark brown. Some versions will have a fruitier aroma, while others tend to be drier with nutty characters. All Browns seem to have a low hop aroma and little hop bitterness. To grasp this brew’s subtleties it must be sipped, contemplated and savored. “Newcastle Brown” in the clear bottle is a brew you may have seen in the stores, but this is, in my opinion, is a watered down version of a true brown ale, a brown ale for beginners if you will. Newcastle is a pale shadow of the treat that this style can truly be. For better examples of “English Browns,” consider trying Samuel Smith’s “Nut Brown Ale”, Smuttynose’s “Old Brown Dog” or Wolaver’s “Organic Brown Ale”. More full bodied richly colored than Newcastle these are brews that the good Inspector could sip with pride and determination while reminding Lewis not to be hasty in his presumptions or to avoid the fizzy Australian Lagers (“They don't spell Australian beer with four Xs out of ignorance”). Interestingly, the Boston Brewing Company, the good folks that bring you Sam Adams, have begun bottling a Brown Ale as part of their Seasonal Line-up. The early reviews that I have read are mostly favorable; I think a trip to Red Bank is in order, I need to acquire some … er … um … research materials for a future column. Yes, that’s it Research Material! In the spirit of Tax Season I wonder if I can deduct the cost of said research materials used for this column?
There is also a style recognized as American Brown Ale which traces some it’s roots to the English Version but may feature American Hops at higher levels or a higher level of alcohol. Dogfish Head’s “Indian Brown” and Brooklyn Brewery’s Brown both fall into this category.
I’ll leave you with a bit of humorous dialogue from the show:
Morse : Isn't it your round?
Lewis : Do you think another one's a good idea?
Morse : Think? That's why I want it - to think. I don't drink for pleasure!
Brown Ale is a style that is contemplative by nature. Similar in many respects to the English Mild Ales, Brown Ales tend to be maltier and sweeter on the palate, with a fuller body. Color can range from reddish-brown to dark brown. Some versions will have a fruitier aroma, while others tend to be drier with nutty characters. All Browns seem to have a low hop aroma and little hop bitterness. To grasp this brew’s subtleties it must be sipped, contemplated and savored. “Newcastle Brown” in the clear bottle is a brew you may have seen in the stores, but this is, in my opinion, is a watered down version of a true brown ale, a brown ale for beginners if you will. Newcastle is a pale shadow of the treat that this style can truly be. For better examples of “English Browns,” consider trying Samuel Smith’s “Nut Brown Ale”, Smuttynose’s “Old Brown Dog” or Wolaver’s “Organic Brown Ale”. More full bodied richly colored than Newcastle these are brews that the good Inspector could sip with pride and determination while reminding Lewis not to be hasty in his presumptions or to avoid the fizzy Australian Lagers (“They don't spell Australian beer with four Xs out of ignorance”). Interestingly, the Boston Brewing Company, the good folks that bring you Sam Adams, have begun bottling a Brown Ale as part of their Seasonal Line-up. The early reviews that I have read are mostly favorable; I think a trip to Red Bank is in order, I need to acquire some … er … um … research materials for a future column. Yes, that’s it Research Material! In the spirit of Tax Season I wonder if I can deduct the cost of said research materials used for this column?
There is also a style recognized as American Brown Ale which traces some it’s roots to the English Version but may feature American Hops at higher levels or a higher level of alcohol. Dogfish Head’s “Indian Brown” and Brooklyn Brewery’s Brown both fall into this category.
I’ll leave you with a bit of humorous dialogue from the show:
Morse : Isn't it your round?
Lewis : Do you think another one's a good idea?
Morse : Think? That's why I want it - to think. I don't drink for pleasure!
Beer for Lent
Today is Ash Wednesday, on this day many Christians around the world will attend Church and be blessed with ashes in recognition of the start of the Lenten Season. “Lent” is a Teutonic word that originally referred to the onset of the “Spring” season and the lengthening of the days that this season brings. Now the word “Lent” is generally used to describe the forty day period of sacrifice, fasting and purification that many Christians undertake in the practice of their faith. It is also closely intertwined with the brewing of particularly tasty beer style, that style being the “Doppelbock.” (Okay, you knew this was coming. This is after all a beer column and not a column devoted to the practice of your chosen faith… unless of course you worship beer.)
As part of the strict Lenten practice, the Monks, who were also the brewers of beer throughout most of Europe, were required to fast from sunrise through sunset. The sole concession to this strict fasting was the intake of fluids. In the early days “fluids” meant beer or wine as the water was frequently too fouled to safely drink. To prepare for this period the monks took to brewing hearty brews that used extra grain to increase the nutritional value of the brew and thus the style “Doppelbock” was born.
The exemplar and gold standard for the style is Paulaner “Salvator” now available year-round thanks to modern brewing techniques. In recognition of the primacy of Salvator, traditional brewers have appended the suffix “ator” to their versions of the brew. For example: Spaten : “Optimator”, Ayinger “Celebrator” Troegs “Troegenator” Augustiner “Maximator” and etc. Stylistically Doppelbock is a lager. This is likely related to the cooler weather during the period leading up to Lent. As brewing was accomplished without the aid of refrigeration “lager” styles were not feasible during the warmer months and Ale yeasts were not active enough to complete the fermentation during the cooler weather. Additionally, as mentioned above, the style was brewed using extra grain, requiring a longer fermentation period, and producing richer and maltier brews and consequently resulting in a higher alcohol content (6.5% to 9% or more).
What should you expect in a typical Doppelbock? Well, the brew will be darker in color, ranging from an oxidized copper through to a deep mahogany brown. The aroma will be toasted or caramelized grain, with some floral hop notes. When tasting, expect some chocolate, roasted coffee and toasted grain accompanied by a toasted malt sweetness that is rounded out with some floral and spicy hop notes. A rich and heady brew, the Doppelbock will sustain you as contemplate the deep philosophical issues raised by the latest episode of “Desperate Housewives.”
In the better stocked stores you can find most of the aforementioned brews. In our own Bayshore Plaza Vingo you may even find,the often overlooked but very tasty, Sam Adam’s “Double Bock.” While you’re fasting don’t overlook the Weizen bocks such as “Aventinus”. Be warned however that on an empty stomach I would avoid the “Eisbocks” such as Kulmbacher’s EKU 28 Kulminator however.
As for me, I have chosen to undertake a Lenten sacrifice in the form of an abstention from alcohol. This should not affect my column and I will continue to contribute to the Herald, though I may be forced to comment on beers that I have purchased and seen in stores and not personally tried. Prior to undertaking my abstention I enjoyed two tasty brews that will sustain me for the challenges to come. First I enjoyed a vinous and roasty A. Le. Coq Imperial Extra Double Stout brewed by AS Tartu in Estonia, followed by a rich and malty St. Bernardus Abt 12 - Quadrupel brewed by Browerij St. Bernardus – Watou NV. Cheers.
As part of the strict Lenten practice, the Monks, who were also the brewers of beer throughout most of Europe, were required to fast from sunrise through sunset. The sole concession to this strict fasting was the intake of fluids. In the early days “fluids” meant beer or wine as the water was frequently too fouled to safely drink. To prepare for this period the monks took to brewing hearty brews that used extra grain to increase the nutritional value of the brew and thus the style “Doppelbock” was born.
The exemplar and gold standard for the style is Paulaner “Salvator” now available year-round thanks to modern brewing techniques. In recognition of the primacy of Salvator, traditional brewers have appended the suffix “ator” to their versions of the brew. For example: Spaten : “Optimator”, Ayinger “Celebrator” Troegs “Troegenator” Augustiner “Maximator” and etc. Stylistically Doppelbock is a lager. This is likely related to the cooler weather during the period leading up to Lent. As brewing was accomplished without the aid of refrigeration “lager” styles were not feasible during the warmer months and Ale yeasts were not active enough to complete the fermentation during the cooler weather. Additionally, as mentioned above, the style was brewed using extra grain, requiring a longer fermentation period, and producing richer and maltier brews and consequently resulting in a higher alcohol content (6.5% to 9% or more).
What should you expect in a typical Doppelbock? Well, the brew will be darker in color, ranging from an oxidized copper through to a deep mahogany brown. The aroma will be toasted or caramelized grain, with some floral hop notes. When tasting, expect some chocolate, roasted coffee and toasted grain accompanied by a toasted malt sweetness that is rounded out with some floral and spicy hop notes. A rich and heady brew, the Doppelbock will sustain you as contemplate the deep philosophical issues raised by the latest episode of “Desperate Housewives.”
In the better stocked stores you can find most of the aforementioned brews. In our own Bayshore Plaza Vingo you may even find,the often overlooked but very tasty, Sam Adam’s “Double Bock.” While you’re fasting don’t overlook the Weizen bocks such as “Aventinus”. Be warned however that on an empty stomach I would avoid the “Eisbocks” such as Kulmbacher’s EKU 28 Kulminator however.
As for me, I have chosen to undertake a Lenten sacrifice in the form of an abstention from alcohol. This should not affect my column and I will continue to contribute to the Herald, though I may be forced to comment on beers that I have purchased and seen in stores and not personally tried. Prior to undertaking my abstention I enjoyed two tasty brews that will sustain me for the challenges to come. First I enjoyed a vinous and roasty A. Le. Coq Imperial Extra Double Stout brewed by AS Tartu in Estonia, followed by a rich and malty St. Bernardus Abt 12 - Quadrupel brewed by Browerij St. Bernardus – Watou NV. Cheers.
Wednesday, February 15, 2006
Bootlegging
"Fizzy Yellow Beer is for Wussies" So reads the signature glass for Stone Brewing Company’s Arrogant Bastard Ale. The somewhat cheeky advertising campaign employed by Stone is mostly about fun and serves to down play the quality and dedication to the brewer’s art that is apparent from the first sip of one of this brewer’s products. I have yet to see Stone’s beers for sale here in the Garden State, but I have found them all in Chinatown.
In the tradition of the bootleggers of old, I have clandestinely imported them to our little paradise on the Raritan Bay. That bucolic enclave of Victorian charm, the place we all call home, our own little Mayberry on the Bay … a town that once was a popular haven for Bootleggers … Atlantic Highlands.
My fall from grace began last Tuesday. Surreptitiously, under the guise of a healthy lunchtime walk, I exited the office onto Maiden Lane thence to Water Street. Continuing North on Water, under the Brooklyn Bridge, past One Police Plaza, toward Mott Street and the darkened heart of Chinatown. Weaving my way through the crowds and slipping past the herbal remedies and fresh sardines I continued north. My round eyes and trench coat marking me as an outsider…but not a tourist. Across a sea of humanity I strode. Just past the Lighting District via Bowery; I sprinted across Delancey Street. On a seedy side street in the shadow of the Williamsburg Bridge I met my contact. The venue was small, hidden amongst stainless steel fabricators and restaurant supply houses, my quarry hid in plain sight.
The entrance was forbidding, a steel roll up door - its perimeter protected by empty kegs - no doubt positioned to deter deliverymen from blocking the driveway. On my right, cold cases filled with all manner of beverages, some alcoholic, some otherwise. On my left, a panel of bullet proof glass that separated me from the cashier. The cashier who eyed me warily as I strode inside, her eyes betrayed no warning of what was to come. I didn’t see it coming, I was blindsided. As my eyes adjusted to the dim interior, I stood thunderstruck. A wall of Belgian imports and American Craft Brews confronted me. Here in this place I thought “how could it be?” Like Indiana Jones I proceeded further inside, then stood there, basking in the glow of hundreds of rare and tasty brews. The thousands of single bottles reflecting pinpricks of fluorescent glare that overwhelmed my senses. This was my idea of a thousand points of light. Vintage Lambics stood cheek by jowl with Baltic Porters. Rauchbier made conversation with Eisbock and Prize Old Ale. “Incredible” I thought, but the best was yet to come.
It was a few moments before I saw them, the … brews of Stone. The Leering Gargoyle proclaimed that I was “not worthy”, but I knew I was. And thus emboldened I finally fell, and fell hard. I grabbed three 22 ounce bottles and after tendering my payment I hastily journeyed back to the Financial District. I walked under the very noses of the occupants of One Police Plaza, the illicit fruits of my labor concealed in a plain brown wrapper.
At 5:20 P.M., after a nervous afternoon, I donned my coat and proceeded to Pier 11. My illicit cargo now concealed within my briefcase beneath the National Law Journal and other trade papers that, if given a chance, could put anyone to sleep in moments.
The ferry arrived and having dutifully, if somewhat nervously, tendered my ticket I took up a seat near the stern…trying at all times to look calm, nonchalant and inconspicuous. I am still not really sure just when I crossed the state line with my contraband and in doing so perfected my crime but somehow the authorities failed to accost me as I made my way down the dock to lose myself in the crowd of commuters heading for home. The angry glare of the Harbor Security Neon seemed to mock me as I strode up First Avenue.
Safely at home, as I removed the contraband from under the false bottom in my brief case I taunted each bottle “I am worthy, I am so damn worthy …”
In the tradition of the bootleggers of old, I have clandestinely imported them to our little paradise on the Raritan Bay. That bucolic enclave of Victorian charm, the place we all call home, our own little Mayberry on the Bay … a town that once was a popular haven for Bootleggers … Atlantic Highlands.
My fall from grace began last Tuesday. Surreptitiously, under the guise of a healthy lunchtime walk, I exited the office onto Maiden Lane thence to Water Street. Continuing North on Water, under the Brooklyn Bridge, past One Police Plaza, toward Mott Street and the darkened heart of Chinatown. Weaving my way through the crowds and slipping past the herbal remedies and fresh sardines I continued north. My round eyes and trench coat marking me as an outsider…but not a tourist. Across a sea of humanity I strode. Just past the Lighting District via Bowery; I sprinted across Delancey Street. On a seedy side street in the shadow of the Williamsburg Bridge I met my contact. The venue was small, hidden amongst stainless steel fabricators and restaurant supply houses, my quarry hid in plain sight.
The entrance was forbidding, a steel roll up door - its perimeter protected by empty kegs - no doubt positioned to deter deliverymen from blocking the driveway. On my right, cold cases filled with all manner of beverages, some alcoholic, some otherwise. On my left, a panel of bullet proof glass that separated me from the cashier. The cashier who eyed me warily as I strode inside, her eyes betrayed no warning of what was to come. I didn’t see it coming, I was blindsided. As my eyes adjusted to the dim interior, I stood thunderstruck. A wall of Belgian imports and American Craft Brews confronted me. Here in this place I thought “how could it be?” Like Indiana Jones I proceeded further inside, then stood there, basking in the glow of hundreds of rare and tasty brews. The thousands of single bottles reflecting pinpricks of fluorescent glare that overwhelmed my senses. This was my idea of a thousand points of light. Vintage Lambics stood cheek by jowl with Baltic Porters. Rauchbier made conversation with Eisbock and Prize Old Ale. “Incredible” I thought, but the best was yet to come.
It was a few moments before I saw them, the … brews of Stone. The Leering Gargoyle proclaimed that I was “not worthy”, but I knew I was. And thus emboldened I finally fell, and fell hard. I grabbed three 22 ounce bottles and after tendering my payment I hastily journeyed back to the Financial District. I walked under the very noses of the occupants of One Police Plaza, the illicit fruits of my labor concealed in a plain brown wrapper.
At 5:20 P.M., after a nervous afternoon, I donned my coat and proceeded to Pier 11. My illicit cargo now concealed within my briefcase beneath the National Law Journal and other trade papers that, if given a chance, could put anyone to sleep in moments.
The ferry arrived and having dutifully, if somewhat nervously, tendered my ticket I took up a seat near the stern…trying at all times to look calm, nonchalant and inconspicuous. I am still not really sure just when I crossed the state line with my contraband and in doing so perfected my crime but somehow the authorities failed to accost me as I made my way down the dock to lose myself in the crowd of commuters heading for home. The angry glare of the Harbor Security Neon seemed to mock me as I strode up First Avenue.
Safely at home, as I removed the contraband from under the false bottom in my brief case I taunted each bottle “I am worthy, I am so damn worthy …”
Thursday, February 09, 2006
Beer My Valentine
It’s a bright sunny day in the Big Apple. Three hours at the desk under my belt and it suddenly occurs to me that I owe you all a blog…yesterday! Yikes! Think , think, think…isn’t Valentines Day coming? Of course it is you dolt. Sounds like there might be room for a little on the subject of beer in that holiday, a nice change of pace from racy undergarments that are itchy (and, to be honest, rarely if ever intended for the recipient so much as the giver) or the over priced bobbles that are currently referred to as “Bling”?
Well the origin of Valentines Day is up for debate. Some say it commemorates one of three Roman Martyrs of that name and others say that it was merely the co-opting of a pagan fertility ritual by the Church of Rome. I am not taking sides here, but I will add, that while the Italians make fairly pedestrian beer (ducks as Moretti fans hurl bottles at monitor) The glorious pagans of Northern Europe still make some of the best beers in the world and they have been doing so on a consistent basis since before there was any debate on this topic. If I have to take sides I am all for fertility and good beer.
Chocolates are a very popular gift on this holiday. Consider pairing some rich chocolate with a good beer. Here is where Rich and the good folks at Lawes Environmental will run to the keyboard and e-mail me. I expect a message or two telling me that I am nuts and cannot possibly be serious. But, I am serious, try it you will like it. I am not alone in this idea, as mind numbing as it may seem. A reader in Kansas City wrote me to suggest pairing a rich chocolate dessert with a Dry Irish Stout such as Guinness, Beamish, Dogfish Head Chicory Stout or the Kansas City local, Boulevard Dry Stout. Capital choices all. He extolled the rich coffee and espresso notes in these brews that were heightened by the sweet and rich chocolate. Sound a little like Starbucks Liqueur?
Here’s another anecdote for you. While at a Super Bowl party a hosted by a neighbor who is also a Chef and something of a wine aficionado, I shared a bottle of 2003 North Coast Old Stock Ale (yes I did say 2003). One taste and the Chef went to the kitchen and presented me with a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup to accompany the brew. He felt that the beer in question, a very rich old ale, (11% a.b.v.) with notes of toasted malt and cocoa paired nicely with sweet milk chocolate and peanut butter.
So what to serve with that Valentines day feast. In lieu of champagne before dinner consider a nice Fruit Lambic such as Lindemann’s. Pair the King crab Claws and Filet Mignon with a bracingly crisp Pale Ale or a delicate Pilsner and for the dessert…see above.
Trust me, get her a sixer of something nice and she will love you forever. Well, on second thought, as a rule most women I know don’t really care for beer, so go for the “Bling” lose the racy lingerie. As for the beer, treat yourself to something special. It will take some of the sting out of the bill you got from the local jeweler for that fleeting moment of adoration. “Honey it’s wonderful, its just what I wanted, oh and remember tomorrow is trash-day… don’t forget to empty the one in the upstairs bath…”
Happy Valentines Day.
Well the origin of Valentines Day is up for debate. Some say it commemorates one of three Roman Martyrs of that name and others say that it was merely the co-opting of a pagan fertility ritual by the Church of Rome. I am not taking sides here, but I will add, that while the Italians make fairly pedestrian beer (ducks as Moretti fans hurl bottles at monitor) The glorious pagans of Northern Europe still make some of the best beers in the world and they have been doing so on a consistent basis since before there was any debate on this topic. If I have to take sides I am all for fertility and good beer.
Chocolates are a very popular gift on this holiday. Consider pairing some rich chocolate with a good beer. Here is where Rich and the good folks at Lawes Environmental will run to the keyboard and e-mail me. I expect a message or two telling me that I am nuts and cannot possibly be serious. But, I am serious, try it you will like it. I am not alone in this idea, as mind numbing as it may seem. A reader in Kansas City wrote me to suggest pairing a rich chocolate dessert with a Dry Irish Stout such as Guinness, Beamish, Dogfish Head Chicory Stout or the Kansas City local, Boulevard Dry Stout. Capital choices all. He extolled the rich coffee and espresso notes in these brews that were heightened by the sweet and rich chocolate. Sound a little like Starbucks Liqueur?
Here’s another anecdote for you. While at a Super Bowl party a hosted by a neighbor who is also a Chef and something of a wine aficionado, I shared a bottle of 2003 North Coast Old Stock Ale (yes I did say 2003). One taste and the Chef went to the kitchen and presented me with a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup to accompany the brew. He felt that the beer in question, a very rich old ale, (11% a.b.v.) with notes of toasted malt and cocoa paired nicely with sweet milk chocolate and peanut butter.
So what to serve with that Valentines day feast. In lieu of champagne before dinner consider a nice Fruit Lambic such as Lindemann’s. Pair the King crab Claws and Filet Mignon with a bracingly crisp Pale Ale or a delicate Pilsner and for the dessert…see above.
Trust me, get her a sixer of something nice and she will love you forever. Well, on second thought, as a rule most women I know don’t really care for beer, so go for the “Bling” lose the racy lingerie. As for the beer, treat yourself to something special. It will take some of the sting out of the bill you got from the local jeweler for that fleeting moment of adoration. “Honey it’s wonderful, its just what I wanted, oh and remember tomorrow is trash-day… don’t forget to empty the one in the upstairs bath…”
Happy Valentines Day.
Wednesday, February 01, 2006
Cellaring Beer?
Five O’clock in the morning is an unreasonable time to rise five days a week. Today, Tuesday, January 31, 2006, the grimness of the hour is exacerbated by the wind blowing in off the bay and the persistent cold rain it is delivering to our little bay shore community. A comfortable ride on the Sea Streak Wall Street does nothing to lift the gloom, nor does a cup of home brewed coffee. I know I owe you all another installment and I am still at a loss as to what to write about. I re-read the Ale Street News and no inspiration comes to me. It’s a gray and raw day in lower Manhattan. Wall Street at 6:35 a.m. is a dark and forbidding canyon. The line of the caffeine starved extends out the door of Starbucks; the only establishment open on my route to the office.
As usual, I am the first person on my floor. I turn on the lights, shrug off my trench coat, hang it on the back of my office door and attack the e-mail that arrived over-night. Nothing from Tokyo or London … good. No emergency projects … good. There is that issue in Miami and three meetings scheduled for today, 11:00, 12:30 lunch meeting and the 4:30… not too bad. Pay dirt!
The Dining and Wine section of the New York Times has an article by Eric Asimov on Barley Wines that I somehow missed. (It is dated 1/25/06 if you are interested… you can get it online - free subscription required). The muse strikes. Perhaps a paragraph or two on cellaring beer and we are good till next week.
Cellaring beer? What are you talking about Ed? Beer is best when fresh right? Yes generally that it is true, but there are certain beers that possess unique qualities that permit you to lay them down for extended periods with an eye toward improving them. One style that is a prime candidate for cellaring is the aforementioned Barley Wine. The higher alcohol and hopping levels give this style the fortitude to withstand the rigors of time. The sharp spiciness of the hops will soften and the caramel and toffee notes that come from the huge amount of grain used may become more vinous or port-like. I often buy extra bottles of this seasonal specialty just to set aside for future sampling. In the Times article it is noted that one of the brews sampled was Thomas Hardy’s Ale, both a 2004 vintage and a 1992 (Gasp! A 14 year old beer!). The difference between the vintages is striking. Read the article for more details. It is well worth the trouble to register. There have been past articles in the Times on other beers, including IPAs and Saisons that are also a great read.
What other beers can you Cellar? As a general rule the stronger beer styles such as Doppelbock and Eisbock also the hoppier styles such as Imperial Stout and Double Imperial Pale Ale can be laid down. Likewise, many of the bottle conditioned Belgian beers will benefit from a few years of aging.
How do you cellar a beer? Like wine, beer must be kept in a cool dark place at a constant temperature. A basement closet away from the furnace is a prime candidate. For those with the space, wine chillers can be purchased at most appliance stores for under $200. A temperature range of 50-55 degrees seems to be the ideal temperature for most strong ales; lagers will require slightly cooler temperatures. For longer term storage brewers and experts alike agree that beers should be stored upright not on their sides.
I have only scratched the surface of this topic, consider doing some additional research before cellaring any beers. Often the brewer will make cellaring suggestions right on the packaging.
As usual, I am the first person on my floor. I turn on the lights, shrug off my trench coat, hang it on the back of my office door and attack the e-mail that arrived over-night. Nothing from Tokyo or London … good. No emergency projects … good. There is that issue in Miami and three meetings scheduled for today, 11:00, 12:30 lunch meeting and the 4:30… not too bad. Pay dirt!
The Dining and Wine section of the New York Times has an article by Eric Asimov on Barley Wines that I somehow missed. (It is dated 1/25/06 if you are interested… you can get it online - free subscription required). The muse strikes. Perhaps a paragraph or two on cellaring beer and we are good till next week.
Cellaring beer? What are you talking about Ed? Beer is best when fresh right? Yes generally that it is true, but there are certain beers that possess unique qualities that permit you to lay them down for extended periods with an eye toward improving them. One style that is a prime candidate for cellaring is the aforementioned Barley Wine. The higher alcohol and hopping levels give this style the fortitude to withstand the rigors of time. The sharp spiciness of the hops will soften and the caramel and toffee notes that come from the huge amount of grain used may become more vinous or port-like. I often buy extra bottles of this seasonal specialty just to set aside for future sampling. In the Times article it is noted that one of the brews sampled was Thomas Hardy’s Ale, both a 2004 vintage and a 1992 (Gasp! A 14 year old beer!). The difference between the vintages is striking. Read the article for more details. It is well worth the trouble to register. There have been past articles in the Times on other beers, including IPAs and Saisons that are also a great read.
What other beers can you Cellar? As a general rule the stronger beer styles such as Doppelbock and Eisbock also the hoppier styles such as Imperial Stout and Double Imperial Pale Ale can be laid down. Likewise, many of the bottle conditioned Belgian beers will benefit from a few years of aging.
How do you cellar a beer? Like wine, beer must be kept in a cool dark place at a constant temperature. A basement closet away from the furnace is a prime candidate. For those with the space, wine chillers can be purchased at most appliance stores for under $200. A temperature range of 50-55 degrees seems to be the ideal temperature for most strong ales; lagers will require slightly cooler temperatures. For longer term storage brewers and experts alike agree that beers should be stored upright not on their sides.
I have only scratched the surface of this topic, consider doing some additional research before cellaring any beers. Often the brewer will make cellaring suggestions right on the packaging.
Tuesday, January 17, 2006
Poor Richard’s Ale
"Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy”
This quote of unknown provenance is often attributed to Ben Franklin. While he may or may not have actually uttered these exact words, contemporary accounts support the notion that Benjamin Franklin was a man who enjoyed a pint now and again. Sources indicate he had a particular fondness for ales that were stronger and fuller bodied. We know that the first beers brewed in North America were Ales; the first Lagers would not arrive on our shores until the 1840’s. We also know that the cost and limited availability of quality Malted Barley makes it almost certain that adjuncts such as Corn and Molasses were used to round out the grain bill. As for hops, the scarcity and cost of imported hops make it likely, that to be authentic, the beer should be mildly hopped, perhaps flavored with fruit, or spices such as cloves, nutmeg or cinnamon. There is also some evidence that brewers used nettles or spruce to offset the otherwise cloying sweetness of the malt and adjunct sugars of the day. While sharing a common lineage, the beers of Mr. Franklin’s time were much different from the beers of today.
This month, more than 100 brew pubs around the country will celebrate the 300th anniversary of Benjamin Franklin's birth. Many of them will follow a recipe for Poor Richard's Ale that emulates a beer - the ever loquacious Ben Franklin might have enjoyed after debating the wording of a certain Declaration that ultimately found its way to London. The rest is history.
Local Brewer, Gretchen Schmidhausler, of Basil T's in Red Bank is among the brewers that chose to commemorate this icon of American history by brewing her interpretation of "Poor Richards Ale". There was a decent article in the January 13th Asbury Park Press that is both interesting and informative. Googling "Poor Richard's Ale" will lead you to some of the other brewers that are brewing this traditional ale. The recipe that many of these brewers are using is based upon the research of another Brewer named Tony Simmons.
On Wednesday January 18th I ventured out to Basil T's in Red Bank to test the fruits of Ms. Schmidhausler's labor. To aid me in my historical task I recruited two friends, Mike and Ulf. I can fairly state that we were all pleasantly surprised by the drinkability of this brew. Off the cuff I'd say that had the ales of the time been this tasty and refined we might still be part of the Commonwealth. The beer poured out a very dark chestnut brown with a creamy tan head that faded to a pancake and left delightful clumps of lacing sticking to the sides of the glass. The aroma of this beer is spicy, smoky and earthy with a lingering sweetness in the back. The molasses and malt are clearly in evidence as are the hops. The taste is balanced - the sweet malt and corn finding a nice spicy counterpoint in the leafy hop and smoky molasses tastes. Not the slick, cloyingly sweet brew that I anticipated at all. Rather, it is a full bodied and balanced brew that is worth taking the trip to Red Bank to enjoy. I think this is a fine way to commemorate Mr. Franklin and the other signers of the Declaration of the Independence. But, you’d better hurry because this limited edition brew will only be on tap for the next couple of weeks.
This quote of unknown provenance is often attributed to Ben Franklin. While he may or may not have actually uttered these exact words, contemporary accounts support the notion that Benjamin Franklin was a man who enjoyed a pint now and again. Sources indicate he had a particular fondness for ales that were stronger and fuller bodied. We know that the first beers brewed in North America were Ales; the first Lagers would not arrive on our shores until the 1840’s. We also know that the cost and limited availability of quality Malted Barley makes it almost certain that adjuncts such as Corn and Molasses were used to round out the grain bill. As for hops, the scarcity and cost of imported hops make it likely, that to be authentic, the beer should be mildly hopped, perhaps flavored with fruit, or spices such as cloves, nutmeg or cinnamon. There is also some evidence that brewers used nettles or spruce to offset the otherwise cloying sweetness of the malt and adjunct sugars of the day. While sharing a common lineage, the beers of Mr. Franklin’s time were much different from the beers of today.
This month, more than 100 brew pubs around the country will celebrate the 300th anniversary of Benjamin Franklin's birth. Many of them will follow a recipe for Poor Richard's Ale that emulates a beer - the ever loquacious Ben Franklin might have enjoyed after debating the wording of a certain Declaration that ultimately found its way to London. The rest is history.
Local Brewer, Gretchen Schmidhausler, of Basil T's in Red Bank is among the brewers that chose to commemorate this icon of American history by brewing her interpretation of "Poor Richards Ale". There was a decent article in the January 13th Asbury Park Press that is both interesting and informative. Googling "Poor Richard's Ale" will lead you to some of the other brewers that are brewing this traditional ale. The recipe that many of these brewers are using is based upon the research of another Brewer named Tony Simmons.
On Wednesday January 18th I ventured out to Basil T's in Red Bank to test the fruits of Ms. Schmidhausler's labor. To aid me in my historical task I recruited two friends, Mike and Ulf. I can fairly state that we were all pleasantly surprised by the drinkability of this brew. Off the cuff I'd say that had the ales of the time been this tasty and refined we might still be part of the Commonwealth. The beer poured out a very dark chestnut brown with a creamy tan head that faded to a pancake and left delightful clumps of lacing sticking to the sides of the glass. The aroma of this beer is spicy, smoky and earthy with a lingering sweetness in the back. The molasses and malt are clearly in evidence as are the hops. The taste is balanced - the sweet malt and corn finding a nice spicy counterpoint in the leafy hop and smoky molasses tastes. Not the slick, cloyingly sweet brew that I anticipated at all. Rather, it is a full bodied and balanced brew that is worth taking the trip to Red Bank to enjoy. I think this is a fine way to commemorate Mr. Franklin and the other signers of the Declaration of the Independence. But, you’d better hurry because this limited edition brew will only be on tap for the next couple of weeks.
Monday, January 09, 2006
So Many Choices ...
There was a time when there were not many convenient choices when it came to beer. There was the Anheuser Busch family of adjunct lagers... Bud, Busch, Micelob... There was Miller, The Champagne of Beers, an adjunct lager in a snazzy clear bottle, Schmidt's, Schlitz, Pabst, Piels and Colt 45(Remember the Shark advert and that catchy whistled theme?)... Yup, more adjunct lagers. Then came light beer, woo hoo another adjunct lager, albeit a light one, and there was even generic beer in a black and white can ... yes a generic adjunct lager (best enjoyed with generic high or low tar smokes, which no doubt gave you generic ailments.) There was also Billy Beer ... remember that one? Can Y'all say "presidential adjunct? Oh and and there was Miller's version of Lowenbrau an adjunct lager in a green bottle for the big shots (Yet another catchy theme). There was also Meisterbrau and Carling's Black Label if you were on a budget and needed a really cheap adjunct lager. Then there were the Canadian adjunct lagers - Labatts, Molson and Moosehead. The pickings were indeed slim, unless you liked adjunct lagers in which case you were in cereal grain heaven. For those special times when Champale wouldn't do, there were also some imported lagers, the usual suspects: Becks, Heineken and Fosters. There was a lone hold-out that brewed the only widely available domestic "Ale" that I can recall - Ballantine. Some fortunate folks had access to local or regional beers like Henry Weinhard's, Rolling Rock, Yuengling or the holy grail of Adjuncts ... Rocky Mountain Brewed Coors. (Tales of trunk loads of this "rare" brew being smuggled from Colorado to the forbidden territory East of the Mississipi used to be commonplace). Alas, not all was rice and corn in the United States, some local brewers had an all-malt product or had an ale in their line-up but they were relatively unknown and of limited availability.
Somewhere along the way there was a change. Brewpubs became popular, craft brewing pioneers like Fritz Maytag and (Anchor Brewing), Bert Grant and Yakima Brewing and Jim Koch and Sam Adam's/ Boston Beer Company started brewing products that appealed to peoples palates as opposed to their wallets. The tide was turning and the quality starved, advertizing driven beer market was in for a change. Fast forward 15 years and now the choices abound, perhaps the "beer tide" is in flood mode. Today when you go to a well-stocked store you may have sensory overload. To compensate for the number of products available craft brewers have employed an abundance bright colors, flashy packaging, cheeky and clever names to lure the beer buyer to load up their cart...with their product!
You have the "gonzo artwork" of Steadman selling Flying Dog's Brews...You have beers impishly named "Bad Elf", a "Seriously Bad Elf" and for the really ill mannered "Extremely Bad Elf"... For the naughty we have "Lump of Coal Christmas Stout" for the feeble minded we have "Blithering Idiot" there is "Old Horizontal" for that nightcap and there is "Arrogant Bastard" a brew that was no doubt named for some of my fellow commuters...Decisions, Decisions Decisions...In the Seventies an ad campaign for peanut butter asked the question "What's a mother to choose?" and answered it with "choosy mothers choose _ _ _ !" Well that was easy it was peanut butter but with so many different choices what beer should I try next? Sadly, many resort to buying what they already know is drinkable, if unexciting, lest they have to suffer through a sixer of a funky brew they do not like.
For those of you that are willing to take a chance the rewards are there. What should you buy? Well that depends on what you like. (short answer, long answer follows) When you buy wine or spirts you are seeking a certain flavor profile. So too with beer. As we move into 2006 resolve to buy beer not by the packaging or the advertizing but by the style and the taste. Learn about the various beer styles and read some product reviews. You can find good info on the web. For starters look at BeerAdvocate.Com and read what others have said about a beer. Read the section about the different beer styles and how to taste beer. A fat Cabernet is not the same as a spicy Syriah? Likewise a Crisp Pilsner is not at all like a Hoppy Pale Ale. Learn the styles, learn how to taste and experiment until you find your preferences. Pick beers that suit your mood...sippers, refreshers or for food pairing. Keep a variety of styles on hand to suit your mood. Lastly, do not be afraid to try a new beer every once and a while.
Somewhere along the way there was a change. Brewpubs became popular, craft brewing pioneers like Fritz Maytag and (Anchor Brewing), Bert Grant and Yakima Brewing and Jim Koch and Sam Adam's/ Boston Beer Company started brewing products that appealed to peoples palates as opposed to their wallets. The tide was turning and the quality starved, advertizing driven beer market was in for a change. Fast forward 15 years and now the choices abound, perhaps the "beer tide" is in flood mode. Today when you go to a well-stocked store you may have sensory overload. To compensate for the number of products available craft brewers have employed an abundance bright colors, flashy packaging, cheeky and clever names to lure the beer buyer to load up their cart...with their product!
You have the "gonzo artwork" of Steadman selling Flying Dog's Brews...You have beers impishly named "Bad Elf", a "Seriously Bad Elf" and for the really ill mannered "Extremely Bad Elf"... For the naughty we have "Lump of Coal Christmas Stout" for the feeble minded we have "Blithering Idiot" there is "Old Horizontal" for that nightcap and there is "Arrogant Bastard" a brew that was no doubt named for some of my fellow commuters...Decisions, Decisions Decisions...In the Seventies an ad campaign for peanut butter asked the question "What's a mother to choose?" and answered it with "choosy mothers choose _ _ _ !" Well that was easy it was peanut butter but with so many different choices what beer should I try next? Sadly, many resort to buying what they already know is drinkable, if unexciting, lest they have to suffer through a sixer of a funky brew they do not like.
For those of you that are willing to take a chance the rewards are there. What should you buy? Well that depends on what you like. (short answer, long answer follows) When you buy wine or spirts you are seeking a certain flavor profile. So too with beer. As we move into 2006 resolve to buy beer not by the packaging or the advertizing but by the style and the taste. Learn about the various beer styles and read some product reviews. You can find good info on the web. For starters look at BeerAdvocate.Com and read what others have said about a beer. Read the section about the different beer styles and how to taste beer. A fat Cabernet is not the same as a spicy Syriah? Likewise a Crisp Pilsner is not at all like a Hoppy Pale Ale. Learn the styles, learn how to taste and experiment until you find your preferences. Pick beers that suit your mood...sippers, refreshers or for food pairing. Keep a variety of styles on hand to suit your mood. Lastly, do not be afraid to try a new beer every once and a while.
East Meets West
Happy 2006, I hope your holidays were safe and the new year finds you in good health. Whatever your New Years resolutions may be, please leave a little room to treat yourself to some quality beers during the coming year. Speaking of quality brews, as promised, I was able to find some unwitting volunteers to sample the Anheuser Busch Brewmaster's Private Reserve with me. Whew, what a delightful treat it was indeed. It is a smooth and well balanced, all malt brew, that is a crystal clear pale straw color with a tightly knit white head that lasts for a short time. There is a healthy bit of carbonation that ensures a persitent ring of head that accents the beers appearance and adds to the mouthfeel of this slightly sweet to balanced tasting brew. There is little noticeable alcohol taste or aroma despite this beers advertized 8% strength. If you can still find it, I urge you to grab a bottle to share with your friends. Let's hope this is among the first of many good things to come from A-B.
Last week we were invited to our friends home for a post New Year's cocktail. I was treated to some superb wines and the inspiration for this column, a can of Baltika No. 9. This beer is brewed by Pivazod Baltika, St. Petersburg, the Russian Federation. A Euro Strong Lager by nomenclature this 8% brew is a slightly sweet medium bodied brew that packs a punch and blows the doors of the Northa American "Malt Liquor" competition. While not a style I prefer it is part of a "numbered" product line that starts with #0, a Non-alcoholic brew and ends with #9, being the Aleksandyr Nevsky of the line if you will ... In between there are variuos light and dark euro lagers. #4 is a quite good dark lager, #6 is a Baltic Porter and #8 is a Hefe Weizen. At $1.79 a pint bottle these are some affordable indulgences and may pair well with Borscht, Sausage, Cabbage and Pierogi's.
Moving Westward to Poland there are also some fine brews available. Elbrewery in Elbag brews Hevelius Classic (6.8%) and Kaper(9.10%)both rews crisp and tasty, and would pair nicely with the afforementioned ethnic fair. Rycerskie from Browar Namyslow is another tasty and strong euro lager crafted to ward off the chill winds blowing out of the East (not to mention warmly satisfy some thirsty Westerners needing to spend some cash).
But no discussion of the East would be complete without at least a mention of some of the rich, malty, Baltic Porters. Sinebychoff from Finland and Okocim from Poland and Zywiec from Lithuania are three readily available, moderately priced, Eastern Baltic Porters. (Should I put a plug in here for Monmouth County's own Heavyweight Brewing's "Perkuno's Hammer?" as fine a Baltic Porter as any I have tasted).
At the turning of the year the East Meets West, here in Atlantic Highlands on the Raritan Bay.
Na Zdrowie! Za vashe zdorovye!
Last week we were invited to our friends home for a post New Year's cocktail. I was treated to some superb wines and the inspiration for this column, a can of Baltika No. 9. This beer is brewed by Pivazod Baltika, St. Petersburg, the Russian Federation. A Euro Strong Lager by nomenclature this 8% brew is a slightly sweet medium bodied brew that packs a punch and blows the doors of the Northa American "Malt Liquor" competition. While not a style I prefer it is part of a "numbered" product line that starts with #0, a Non-alcoholic brew and ends with #9, being the Aleksandyr Nevsky of the line if you will ... In between there are variuos light and dark euro lagers. #4 is a quite good dark lager, #6 is a Baltic Porter and #8 is a Hefe Weizen. At $1.79 a pint bottle these are some affordable indulgences and may pair well with Borscht, Sausage, Cabbage and Pierogi's.
Moving Westward to Poland there are also some fine brews available. Elbrewery in Elbag brews Hevelius Classic (6.8%) and Kaper(9.10%)both rews crisp and tasty, and would pair nicely with the afforementioned ethnic fair. Rycerskie from Browar Namyslow is another tasty and strong euro lager crafted to ward off the chill winds blowing out of the East (not to mention warmly satisfy some thirsty Westerners needing to spend some cash).
But no discussion of the East would be complete without at least a mention of some of the rich, malty, Baltic Porters. Sinebychoff from Finland and Okocim from Poland and Zywiec from Lithuania are three readily available, moderately priced, Eastern Baltic Porters. (Should I put a plug in here for Monmouth County's own Heavyweight Brewing's "Perkuno's Hammer?" as fine a Baltic Porter as any I have tasted).
At the turning of the year the East Meets West, here in Atlantic Highlands on the Raritan Bay.
Na Zdrowie! Za vashe zdorovye!
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