Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Extreme Beer and the Craft Beer Renaissance

My friend Gene and I occasionally walk up to New Beer Distributors here in Manhattan to grab a bottle or two of something especially tasty that we have tried previously and sometimes we each grab something that appears unusual or intriguing. In today’s craft brewing renaissance this usually translates into what is sometimes referred to as an “extreme beer.” Just what is an extreme beer? Well that depends on who you ask. Some say it refers to highly hopped or high alcohol brews. Others say it refers to a departure from accepted styles such as adding fruit or spices to a traditional beer such as a Pomegranate Wheat Beer or a Chipotle Smoked Porter. Whatever definition suits you I think we can agree that some of these brews are exciting and others… well just plain wrong.

Gene is prone to saying that to him it seems that craft brewers are brewing some of these extreme beers for no other reason than “because they can.” I am inclined to agree with him. Nonetheless, beer is food and I have come around to thinking of it as an ingredient in cooking as well as a beverage. I can see the merits of adding a robust brew to flavor soups and stews. Sometimes a particular beer may add another layer of flavor to a pot of chile for example. The aforementioned chipotle smoked porter would be a prime candidate for this type of endeavor.

Other extreme beers make complex “sippers” that can take the bite out a chilly spring evening here on the Bay Shore. I have been enjoying a canned Imperial Stout with the improbable name of “Ten Fidy” as my evening warmer. Yes, I said canned as in aluminum cans. Brewed by Oskar Blues of Lyons Colorado and weighing in at an impressive 10% alcohol by volume, Ten Fidy is smooth and roasty like a stout should be without the cloying sweetness that pervades many other imperial stouts. At $10.50 for four 12 ounce cans it is a bit pricier than a traditional stout but well worth the additional expense.

While on the topic of extreme beer we cannot neglect the current trend/concept of “barrel aging.” Dogfish Head has its oak aged “Burton Baton”, There is Bourbon Barrel Stout from Goose Island and “Oaked Arrogant Bastard” from Stone Brewing. But these all pale with the apparent audacity of the folks at Iron Hill. Here is an excerpt from their latest press release:

“WILMINGTON, DE – Your Dad doesn’t have to love Johnny Cash to embrace Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant’s spicy Father’s Day treat: on Sunday, June 15, they will premier “Ring of Fire Porter,” an assertive brew sure to light Dad’s fire.
Crafted from Iron Hill’s own Pig Iron Porter, then aged and finished in a TABASCO® pepper mash oak barrel, this is a libation that will please beer and barbecue lovers alike. Better still, it arrives just in time for grilling season. Ring of Fire will be available in 375 ml bottles for $9 at all Iron Hill locations for dine-in and carry-out.
As the beer ages inside the oak Tabasco barrels, the heat and the pepper character mix with the roastiness and subtle chocolate notes of the porter, making this a steak-friendly beer with 5% alcohol that’s sure to be a summertime favorite for its sweet, smoky character and flavorful punch…”

I do not want to think about where the name “Ring of Fire” originates, though perhaps the morning after a few of these you may have a revelation … nevertheless I might try this as a marinade or a base for a homemade sauce or in a pot of chile.

Well whatever your preferences these days there is an extreme beer for you. And while Garrett Oliver may not be thrilled with this moniker I think the term “Extreme beer” is firmly entrenched in the brewing lexicon.